| Products > Test Equipment |
| ANENG AN8001, 6000 count true RMS Multimeter for $14. |
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| BroMarduk:
The AN8004 has the uA range, but is only 2000 count and has no temp and no mV. It's usually the cheapest of the set. Aneng AN8000/Zotek ZT100 - 4000 Count/mV/mA Aneng AN8001/Zotek ZT101 - 6000 Count/mV/mA Aneng AN8002/Zotek ZT102 - 6000 Count/mV/mA/Temp Aneng AN8004/Zotek ZT98 - 2000 Count/mA/uA (Also under Richmeters and Kasuntest brands) |
| sleemanj:
--- Quote from: MBY on March 22, 2017, 04:22:42 pm ---My question is, has anybody got the AN8002 (with temp measurement) and can say what the lowest current range is? One other irritating thing is a lack of range- and delta-buttons. --- End quote --- You are correct, there are only A and mA range selections and the minimum scale in the mA range is 60mA, so the best you can measure is down to 10uA, ignoring error. It's a bit of a shame, just a few tweaks here and there would make it a much better meter still fitting into that small size, add a uA range, use 5x20 fuses at a minimum, expose the Min/Max and Manual ranging functionality. |
| BroMarduk:
--- Quote from: sleemanj on March 22, 2017, 09:25:04 pm --- --- Quote from: MBY on March 22, 2017, 04:22:42 pm ---My question is, has anybody got the AN8002 (with temp measurement) and can say what the lowest current range is? One other irritating thing is a lack of range- and delta-buttons. --- End quote --- It's a bit of a shame, just a few tweaks here and there would make it a much better meter still fitting into that small size, add a uA range, use 5x20 fuses at a minimum, expose the Min/Max and Manual ranging functionality. --- End quote --- That is pretty much the general consensus I have been hearing on this (AN8002/ZT102) variant that with a few tweaks you would have a much better product worth charging a few dollars more and focused on electronics work. In addition to the items mentioned above, the input jacks sometimes make a snapping sound when removing leads and could use some improvements - I don't expect them to last too long. A longer backlight (or the ability to turn the auto light off feature) is on my list as well. Better LCD contrast should be an easy fix. Maybe someone will make a mid-range (relative) model that is more the size of the Fluke 107 instead of the 101 and use the space to add some buttons, fuses etc. or even improve the design of the already larger Aneng AN860B+. You never know with China, since it seems to be about economies of scale most of the time. |
| dseyst:
If you look at the back of the circuit board in an Aneng 8001, there is a range switch pad that actually works. |
| Crumble:
To those who have not seen it yet, a video was made by joeqsmith about the AN8002, which is probably for a large part the same: Consequently, I bought one as an extra, it often helps to have some extra monitoring of power rails and such. I guess as long as I don't use the thing on anything with a lot of energy I'd be ok. I think the worst thing this thing will see is an occational audio amp. I think the µA range would require another place on the switch, because it will need another shunt. Right now I've got enough meters that can do µAs (I can't imagine me ever using more than 2 such meters simultaneously), so I'm satisfied with the 60mA range. It has shunt of about 1.3Ohm, so it won't upset most systems (78mV burden voltage). I also did a few measurements with power consumption, and it seems to be only about 1,5mA (depending on range, but I only tried a few ranges). I'm running it on NiMH now, but this is troublesome because the backlight gets dimmer and you will not be able to light most LEDs anymore. It does send out 1,5mA in the diode check, which might be a lot. edit: The automatic power off option does work, but the unit keeps on bleeping if you activate it, which I consider to be quite annoying. Sometimes I'm just doing measuring with a few meters while tweaking working on a schematic and I just want it to display whatever it is set to QUIETLY until told to do otherwise. Especially because I have a Gossen meter that beeps when an overcurrent (and probably overvoltage too, haven't tried 600V yet) occurs. |
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