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| ANENG AN8001, 6000 count true RMS Multimeter for $14. |
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| flash2b:
So your also didn't switch range using the Yellow key because of the wiper problem ? |
| plazma:
--- Quote from: flash2b on February 18, 2018, 07:49:40 pm ---So your also didn't switch range using the Yellow key because of the wiper problem ? --- End quote --- It may have been in wrong mode because of the wiper misalignment. But I noticed the yellow key did not work as expected. |
| none:
Regarding the last few posts: my Richmeters 101 came with one wiper spring contact stuck so it did not make any contact. However, it was not bent, only stuck, so just a little nudge helped. Hoping to be able to add serial output: I bought it originally as it is supposedly based on a DTM660 and I was hoping to add serial output as described for a eM860T on http://www.kerrywong.com/2016/03/19/hacking-dtm0660l-based-multimeters/ (Datasheet translated to English at http://www.kerrywong.com/2016/04/03/dtm0660-datasheet-translated/ the original is supposed to be available via https://sigrok.org/wiki/Multimeter_ICs#Dream_Tech_International_DTM0660) However, this apparently has not been done before for this model (I could not find anything). One (EEPROM) hack, enabling temperature measurement (that is available on the AN8002 / ZT102 / RT102 / ...), is linked above in post #5 (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/aneng-an8001-6000-count-true-rms-multimeter/msg1072397/#msg1072397) which is a Russian PDF. It (google-)translates to: --- Quote ---How to add a temperature measurement mode in the multimeter ZT101. To make the temperature measurement mode in the multimeter ZT101 just need change the values of some cells EEPROM 24C02. In the AFH cells, change the value to 13H (temperature centigrade), and in the cell BFH change to 15H (Fahrenheit temperature). The temperature measurement mode will be available in the “mV” selector position by pressing the yellow button (mVDC → mVAC → ° C → ° F → mVDC). Alternating modes can rearrange the values in cells 8FH - BFH. Example flashing 24S02 with PICKIT2. 1. First you need to set the jumpers between the control point VPP and contacts JP2 (see picture). This is necessary to enable recording in 24С02 and transfer the processor to reset state so as not to interfere with work with 24С02. 2. Connect the 24C02 to PICKIT2. For this you need only 3 wires. Can use a clip. If there are no clips, then 3 wires are not difficult and solder. 3. Turn on the power of the multimeter by turning the selector to any position except OFF. 4. Connect PICKIT2 to the computer, run PICKIT2 Programmer, select 24С02 and read the contents of the EEPROM by pressing the READ pedal. The content should look like like on a picture. Some values may vary. It does not hurt to save the read dump to a file so that you can restore the factory settings, in which case. 5. In cells 0AF and 0BF (circled in red), change the values to 13 and 15. These are the modes temperature measurements in degrees Celsius and Fahrenheit respectively. They can swap. 6. Write the corrected dump to EEPROM 24C02 by pressing the WRITE pedal. Green field in the event window will confirm successful recording. 7. Turn off the power of the multimeter, disconnect 24С02 from PICKIT2, remove the RESET- jumpers GND-WP. All. Now in the position of the selector ”mV” will be available two more modes. Mode selection yellow button. The thermocouple connects to the COM (black banana, “-”) and VΩHz (red banana, “+”) jacks. --- End quote --- To make use of the serial port, the REL button would have to be accessible. However, of the five implemented in DTM660L (Function Keys: SELECT, RANGE, REL, HZ/DUTY, HOLD (BACKLIGHT), MAX/MIN, BACKLIGHT), the AN8001/RM101/ZT101 only has SEL(ECT) and HOLD (BACKLIGHT) as actual buttons, and a contact for RANGE internally. The datasheet does not seem to specify the pins for the buttons. This video by Vitalii Tereshchuk, "🗜UPGRADE Multimeter RICHMETERS ZT102, RM102 True RMS. Доработка мультиметра" at upgrades an ZT102 by adding four buttons: "Hz/%", REL, MIN/MAX, RANGE and identifies the following pins / test points: PT1.0 (left of battery holder) PT1.1 (right of battery holder, connected to SW3 RANGE contact pattern) "PT1.2" (not an actual pad and unlabelled, it's a via between the EEPROM and the IC blob It seems to be a button matrix, and the connections are shown at 2m44s in the video (https://youtu.be/qFUTGubdvlQ?t=164): HZ/DUTYPT1.1 - PT1.0 RM101 in Hz/%: switches between Hz and % (same as SEL?)REL PT1.1 - PT1.2 RM101 in V: switches to deltaRANGE PT1.1 - BAT- (VSS) RM101 in V: switches to MANUAL and then sets decimal separatorMIN/MAXPT1.2 - 1.0 (I assume PT1.0) RM101 in V: switches to MANUAL between MAX and MIN REL does not react to a long press (I'm just shorting PT1.1 and the via with test leads) yet, so reading/writing the EEPROM is next. Also, the TX pin needs to be located on the board. According to Kerry Wong's translated datasheet pinout, it would be pin 20 (PT1.4/TX) however, from his photos it appears other pins might be used (and connected to D9). TP1.4/TX would be pin 20, just after the I2C lines for the EEPROM. Thanks to Vitalii Tereshchuk we know where PT1.2 / pin 22 is located. Only one trace emerges from the epoxy blob and it goes to a via - that could also be PT1.3 on pin 21. Indeed, the via connects to the HOLD/BACKLIGHT button. A sacrificial device to grind down or an x-ray would be needed to determine if the other pin has been bonded at all. Even then, accessing it would probably be very difficult unless you are equipped with precision machines or (dangerous) decapping equipment/materials. There are also many reviews / teardowns on Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=an8001+rm101+zt101 Here's another EEPROM hack and hardware modification (Korean): https://blog.naver.com/PostView.nhn?blogId=twophase&logNo=221088350484&redirect=Dlog&widgetTypeCall=true&directAccess=false https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=https%3A%2F%2Fblog.naver.com%2FPostView.nhn%3FblogId%3Dtwophase%26logNo%3D221088350484%26redirect%3DDlog%26widgetTypeCall%3Dtrue%26directAccess%3Dfalse&edit-text=&act=url --- Quote ---The following is a breakdown of my hacking. - display up to 9999 counts (originally 6000 counts) - Measurement up to uA range (originally measured up to mA) - Temperature measurement possible - RS232 output (only plugged in, which requires additional circuitry and work to actually activate) In reality, using RS232 function seems to be more difficult. On the other hand, we recorded the CEH (1100 1110) value in the FAH address to take advantage of the RS232 function. However, in order to activate this function, you have to hold down the "REL" The problem is that there is no REL button on ZT101 or AN8001. Therefore, if you want to use RS232, you have to make it as a REL button. I will try it later if it is time. But I do not know if it is actually possible. I have never seen an example of the success of RS232 on AN8001 without the REL button. The crucial thing is that the output of the RS232 does not seem to be coming out (intentionally). It looks like it is buried where it is bonded in the photo above. --- End quote --- Conclusion: no serial data out for ZT101/ZT102 (Aneng AN8001/AN8002, Richmeters RM101/RM102 and other rebrands). Here's a Japanese blog entry (and a copy of the original datasheet as PDF): http://moomin63.blog107.fc2.com/blog-entry-863.html https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fmoomin63.blog107.fc2.com%2Fblog-entry-863.html&edit-text=&act=url So if anyone has a broken / defective unit of any of these models: zt101 zt201 rm101 rm102 an8001 an8002 please sand down the epoxy blob so the world can see the first PCB layer in its full glory! |
| none:
I couldn't find a photo with the LCD removed, so in case anyone else wants to trace vias ... |
| yunLad:
Hi! I just now got this meter to replace my semi-broken chinesium generic and I wanted to document how it's possible to add the uA range without sacrificing one of the other ranges! (kinda, temperature only works with the newly added switch in mA position) utilizing just a spdt switch. In the eeprom dumps you can see unused range options so after a bit of poking and playing with the eeprom content I indeed found a viable spot between two vias (one is for mA range selection, the other - random choice) to connect additional range toggle switch for mA position. (as it later turned out, not the best placement since it aliases ohms and temperature on the same new one :palm: oh well) On my board revision the 99 ohm resistor was missing so I've had to add one (carefully selecting 3x33 ohm) and wire in a spdt switch that would bridge this 99 ohm in one position and switch to the new ranges bridging the two vias in the other. (a mosfet would be a better option, I know, but it was getting late.) All that was left was to populate blank spots in the eeprom with correct values for affected ranges, see the rm102.ino for details. (here I found my mistake with temp but chose to ignore it, maybe somebody will find a better position for the switch) Here's my dump for anyone interested: --- Code: --- FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF 52 00 FA 00 48 D5 03 AC 26 0F 27 D4 03 6E 50 64 4B 3C 3C 0A FF 40 FF F3 99 00 80 64 00 96 00 00 80 00 80 5B 7E 63 72 4E 02 09 80 02 0A 46 FB 09 15 FF 09 8D 03 0A 00 00 01 00 01 00 07 98 00 64 00 64 00 64 00 00 00 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 9B 7E 00 83 01 00 FA 2A 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 4A 81 00 80 C6 84 E0 7C 18 01 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0C 10 09 00 00 10 13 00 0E 00 07 00 12 03 01 00 0D 11 07 00 00 11 15 00 0F 00 09 00 00 04 02 00 00 00 0A 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0A 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0B 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0B 00 00 00 00 0D 00 02 10 0D 00 03 20 20 00 03 20 20 00 03 10 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 41 00 03 05 0D 00 02 20 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 FF FF FF FF FF FF 5A C7 CC 0F 78 A2 00 00 --- End code --- I threw in additional capacitors to filter the vcc rail - 100uF worth of mlcc and an electrolytic (much faster readings), min/max and range buttons from video above and hacked it to 9999 counts (how was that even possible?) (It would be a good idea to calibrate the new range but don't know yet how to go about doing that and I don't have a current nor voltage reference) Hope this helps someone! |
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