ANENG goes crazy with new meters

[Fungus]

Looks like Aneng has a new collection of meters for the holiday season.

There's a new Bluetooth meter that connects to your phone:



A new pocket multimeter:

Edit: But the screen appears to be horrible in real life - give this one a miss!



A crazy colored new general purpose meter:



A new 9999 count "professional" multimeter:




Edit: That one ^^^ looks suspiciously similar to the crazy colored one. 

[bd139]

Are they still dangerous as fuck though?

[SmokedComponent]

Well, at least they *look* good, though. I like the red go-fast look

[radiolistener]

Are they still dangerous as fuck though?

if you use protection suit and thick rubber gloves with fire protection, it is pretty safe 

[bd139]

So basically if I buy an arc flash suit I'm good?

2021 fashion!

[Fungus]

Well, at least they *look* good, though. I like the red go-fast look

It certainly one-ups the new Uni-T styling: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/new-uni-t-ut61-series-(ut61e)/msg3301277/#new

[Specmaster]

I'm struggling to think of a reason why you would want it to link to your phone via Bluetooth when it doesn't do data logging

[bd139]

That'll be so you can install a third rate Chinese app on your phone so they can steal your contacts and check you aren't a Uighur.

[Fungus]

Are they still dangerous as fuck though?

Yep. Just the way you like 'em!

[Wytnucls]

Are they still dangerous as fuck though?

No worries:

[Fungus]

3D rendered fuses for golden safety!

[tooki]

Are they still dangerous as fuck though?

At least they’re only claiming CAT III 600V, unlike the many meters that fraudulently claim CAT IV 600V.

I'm struggling to think of a reason why you would want it to link to your phone via Bluetooth when it doesn't do data logging

It does look like it’ll do trend graphing. But as for the use case of non-logging Bluetooth: I can think of two. 1) Remote readings, like if you need to put the meter in one place and then go control something somewhere else. 2) presentations, classroom instruction, streaming, etc: anywhere where being able to share the meter screen digitally. Much easier to read than a camera pointed at an LCD.

[exe]

Oh, that's tempting. I'd like something with remote logging and cheap. I also like that they finally put that fifth button that, afaik, is needed to put it into calibration mode.

What I don't like is big variety of models. I'd like to have two-three models to choose from, with clear distinction and/or comparison table.

[Fungus]

I wonder how hackable the Bluetooth protocol is... 

[Specmaster]

Are they still dangerous as fuck though?

At least they’re only claiming CAT III 600V, unlike the many meters that fraudulently claim CAT IV 600V.

I'm struggling to think of a reason why you would want it to link to your phone via Bluetooth when it doesn't do data logging

It does look like it’ll do trend graphing. But as for the use case of non-logging Bluetooth: I can think of two. 1) Remote readings, like if you need to put the meter in one place and then go control something somewhere else. 2) presentations, classroom instruction, streaming, etc: anywhere where being able to share the meter screen digitally. Much easier to read than a camera pointed at an LCD.

Yeah true, but I'd like to think that they would be using akin to a Fluke or Brymen meters in such a scenario for safety reasons  when you have untrained persons around.

[Fungus]

Yeah true, but I'd like to think that they would be using akin to a Fluke or Brymen meters in such a scenario for safety reasons  when you have untrained persons around.

Be thankful they're using an Aneng and not this.



(which I've actually seen people doing)

[bd139]

Holy crap I had one of them albeit the Micronta variant about 35 years ago. It ended up dying after it went across the mains in ohms. The entire plastic section filled up with smoke so you couldn't see the needle. When the smoke cleared, the needle no longer existed. It is one of the greatest mysteries in my life so far.

[Specmaster]

Well, thats a first, you managed to fry something instead of blowing it up 

I doubt that that meter even has a glass fuse in it.

[elekorsi]

Oh crap, it seems that i will need my insulation gloves tonight if i accidentally touch my wife...

[bd139]

I doubt that that meter even has a glass fuse in it.

That meter is the fuse 

[floobydust]

The Q10 looks better thought out, but USD$40 pricepoint? 3xAA batteries for backlight and at least the fuses seem to be 5x20mm which are OK for 250VAC and easier to find. It seems smaller than the 860. The silicone padding still leaves the sides slippery like a bar of soap.
To get around regulatory there is a safety sticker with consent to removal on the current jacks.

Hopefully ANENG has improved the rotary switch leafs from ghetto grade copper to something better. Maybe they've heard of nickel, brass, gold lol. It's sad I still use 40 year old multimeters as beaters because they are reliable.

AN9002 Bluetooth, we really need a multimeter standard for data so you aren't locked into a low quality app., something supporting sigrok.

Not to be my usual offensive but are they dumb or just have too much pride to ask us what features we like, and to get the English fixed up in their marketing and manual?

[rsjsouza]

There's "non-contact sensation", "square wave gear", and so on...

The only thing I am really impressed is the price of the top model: $40 is quite a lot for the quality shown in previous models. Sure, the AN870 is ok-ish, but their lesser models are quite low quality (I have their Richmeters' counterparts RM102Pro and RM219).

Oh well, at least the rotary switch does not have the idiotic "hfe" of the UT61E+
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/new-uni-t-ut61-series-(ut61e)/

[tooki]

Are they still dangerous as fuck though?

At least they’re only claiming CAT III 600V, unlike the many meters that fraudulently claim CAT IV 600V.

I'm struggling to think of a reason why you would want it to link to your phone via Bluetooth when it doesn't do data logging

It does look like it’ll do trend graphing. But as for the use case of non-logging Bluetooth: I can think of two. 1) Remote readings, like if you need to put the meter in one place and then go control something somewhere else. 2) presentations, classroom instruction, streaming, etc: anywhere where being able to share the meter screen digitally. Much easier to read than a camera pointed at an LCD.

Yeah true, but I'd like to think that they would be using akin to a Fluke or Brymen meters in such a scenario for safety reasons  when you have untrained persons around.

Realistically, I don’t think any professionals would be buying these anyway. They’re hobbyist level. I can envision things where a home hobbyist might use remote display, like testing some kind of RC doodad, or  seeing how hot it gets in the shed (from the comfort of the air conditioned home).

[Fungus]

AN9002 Bluetooth, we really need a multimeter standard for data so you aren't locked into a low quality app., something supporting sigrok.

I can't think of a single reason why they'd make it difficult to decode, but ... only time will tell.

If it's obfuscated, well ... there's an app and Java is really easy to decompile. 

Not to be my usual offensive but are they dumb or just have too much pride to ask us what features we like, and to get the English fixed up in their marketing and manual?

The broken English is beyond comprehension but relax and enjoy it. 

[Electro Fan]

The 9002 looks like it has potential to be a worthy successor to the 8008.  I like the jack arrangement and will be interested to see what Auto does.  Nice to add the rel and min/max.  Maybe next time for a bar meter.  Q10 could be nice too.

[graybeard]

I have bought two Aneng meters.   They were both crap, inaccurate and built or poor materials.  I will not buy another.

[Fungus]

I have bought two Aneng meters.   They were both crap, inaccurate and built or poor materials.  I will not buy another.

What models? I own a few and they're pretty good for what they are. Accuracy is spot on.

[tooki]

I have bought two Aneng meters.   They were both crap, inaccurate and built or poor materials.  I will not buy another.

What models? I own a few and they're pretty good for what they are. Accuracy is spot on.

I have only one, but I totally agree. Perfectly accurate, feels nice in the hand for the price. They’re way better than most super-cheap meters.

[rsjsouza]

The 9002 looks like it has potential to be a worthy successor to the 8008.  I like the jack arrangement and will be interested to see what Auto does.  Nice to add the rel and min/max.  Maybe next time for a bar meter.  Q10 could be nice too.

I have the RM102Pro (same as Aneng 113D) which also has the "Auto" setting:
- The feature works reasonably well, especially when you need to make various different types of measurements without having to switch between V/ohms.
- The major drawback is the autorange speed, which is much slower than selecting the ranges directly.
- The continuity response time is very slow in this mode. The dedicated function is better for that.

The overall quality of mine is low. Sure, it has a very nice form factor and it feels polished, but I can't get past the tiny fuses (very hard to find and relatively expensive), the rotary switch mechanical issues (bad contacts and ease to leave the switch in between two ranges) and the fact this particular model leaves the inputs shorted through the 200mA fuse when the rotary position is in OFF. The models here may have these issues fixed, but I wouldn't buy another Aneng/Richmeters/Zoyi/whatever other rebrand of these.

[bd139]

I have bought two Aneng meters.   They were both crap, inaccurate and built or poor materials.  I will not buy another.

What models? I own a few and they're pretty good for what they are. Accuracy is spot on.

I'm interested to see what happens over time with them. Case in point, the aforementioned UT61E which can drift a fair amount in the first year of ownership (I had one). I'm not sure if the Aneng meters have any user adjustable calibration as well.

[Fungus]

I'm interested to see what happens over time with them. Case in point, the aforementioned UT61E which can drift a fair amount in the first year of ownership (I had one). I'm not sure if the Aneng meters have any user adjustable calibration as well.

The Anengs are all digital calibration, they don't drift.

I believe the UT61E has little trimmer pots inside it. That makes it much more susceptible to drift/vibrations/etc.

[ResistorRob]

I'm struggling to think of a reason why you would want it to link to your phone via Bluetooth when it doesn't do data logging

How do you have 10,000 posts and can't think of why they would add Bluetooth to a non-logging meter? LOL

1) HELLO.... REMOTE VIEWING!!! 
There's been multiple times when I was in a challenging situation when I would have loved to have this feature.

2) Training / Presentations
You can run Blue Stacks on your laptop to run Android apps on your computer. Or do a screen project to laptop from your phone. Then you can share via a projector , Zoom, or other methods. Not too mention it looks nicer if you are teaching, doing a presentation, blog, or YouTube video.

3) You can take a screenshot to record your measurement and then write notes over top of the photo. I tend to lose my handwritten notes, so something like this would be handy for me.

4. Hard to read situations.
If your are trying to measure something difficult where it requires you to keep your eyes on what you are doing, you can do a screen record mode, and play back the video to see what the reading was.

Hopefully you can see this isn't a "WTF" feature as you thought. There is many meters on the market like this, and it's actually a nice addition to the feature set. My grandpa hated computers, the internet, LCD screens and was just happy using his analog Simpson meter for everything. He was an electrical engineer who worked for NASA. So it's easy to get stuck in your ways even if you are incredibly intelligent. But if you aren't open to new technology you will be missing out on some cool things which could make your life easier.

[hugo]

How do you know so much about Bluetooth and multimeters in general with only 67 posts?    LOL

[Specmaster]

I'm struggling to think of a reason why you would want it to link to your phone via Bluetooth when it doesn't do data logging

How do you have 10,000 posts and can't think of why they would add Bluetooth to a non-logging meter? LOL

1) HELLO.... REMOTE VIEWING!!! 
There's been multiple times when I was in a challenging situation when I would have loved to have this feature.

2) Training / Presentations
You can run Blue Stacks on your laptop to run Android apps on your computer. Or do a screen project to laptop from your phone. Then you can share via a projector , Zoom, or other methods. Not too mention it looks nicer if you are teaching, doing a presentation, blog, or YouTube video.

3) You can take a screenshot to record your measurement and then write notes over top of the photo. I tend to lose my handwritten notes, so something like this would be handy for me.

4. Hard to read situations.
If your are trying to measure something difficult where it requires you to keep your eyes on what you are doing, you can do a screen record mode, and play back the video to see what the reading was.

Hopefully you can see this isn't a "WTF" feature as you thought. There is many meters on the market like this, and it's actually a nice addition to the feature set. My grandpa hated computers, the internet, LCD screens and was just happy using his analog Simpson meter for everything. He was an electrical engineer who worked for NASA. So it's easy to get stuck in your ways even if you are incredibly intelligent. But if you aren't open to new technology you will be missing out on some cool things which could make your life easier.

I can honestly say that I have never had a reason for anything like a Bluetooth facility, other than for data logging reasons. If I'm trying to obtain a reading in a awkward situation I just use a meter with a auto hold feature so it buzzes when its got its reading and the display is held until I reset it again.

[xavier60]

The 9002 looks like it has potential to be a worthy successor to the 8008.  I like the jack arrangement and will be interested to see what Auto does.  Nice to add the rel and min/max.  Maybe next time for a bar meter.  Q10 could be nice too.

Also takes AA cells, so hopefully it will run well on NiMh cells to avoid the leakage problem.
I have abandoned my 8008 because its AAA cells had leaked.
 No model will ever become my main meter if it doesn't do diode test beeps.

[bdowling]

Also takes AA cells, so hopefully it will run well on NiMh cells to avoid the leakage problem.
I have abandoned my 8008 because its AAA cells had leaked.

Have you tried lithium primary cells? They are supposed to never leak.

[xavier60]

Also takes AA cells, so hopefully it will run well on NiMh cells to avoid the leakage problem.
I have abandoned my 8008 because its AAA cells had leaked.

Have you tried lithium primary cells? They are supposed to never leak.

Yes, many years ago in something. Until you mentioned it, I had forgot all about them.
Not really all that expensive, https://www.bunnings.com.au/energizer-aa-lithium-batteries-4-pack_p4410081

And the AAA cells, https://www.bunnings.com.au/energizer-aaa-ultimate-lithium-battery-4-pack_p4410034

[xavier60]

Despite the "Takes up to 680 shots in digital still cameras (versus 80 shots with ordinary alkaline)" hype, data sheet indicates only 1200mAh capacity.
https://data.energizer.com/pdfs/l92.pdf

Better off with Panasonic AAA Eneloops which are claiming something like 800mAh and 10 years self discharge.

[David Hess]

I like the terminal arrangement on the last two but they are missing the second off position.

[floobydust]

Do they still have fake bar graphs? They show 100 segments but are grouped so I think it's a 30 bar in the end. Reviewers don't even notice lol.

[bd139]

That’s the sort of thing that would piss me right off and result in it being returned 

[sot010174]

That’s the sort of thing that would piss me right off and result in it being returned 

Agreed. I'am looking at the new UT61E+ / UT161E but by the looks of things Uni-T has cursed these models with those fake bargraphs but I could be wrong. For me it's a showstopper.

[bd139]

the old UT61E had an uncursed bargraph that was quite good but it still didn't feel right for some reason. I'm not 100% sure why. I have never worked it out.

[rsjsouza]

That’s the sort of thing that would piss me right off and result in it being returned 

Agreed. I'am looking at the new UT61E+ / UT161E but by the looks of things Uni-T has cursed these models with those fake bargraphs but I could be wrong. For me it's a showstopper.

I saw a promotional video for the UT161E and the bargraph seems really terrible. The UT61E bargraph is very nice and has a bit of dampening that is just right. The Cyrustek guys knew what they were doing on that chipset.

I did a review on a failed product (Surpeer AV4) whose bargraph was a disaster. This meter seems to have been re-launched as the ELEG-Borbede BD-99

[TurboTom]

I wonder how the Chinese resellers invent all these, well, "innovative" company names... 

[sot010174]

I did a review on a failed product (Surpeer AV4) whose bargraph was a disaster. This meter seems to have been re-launched as the ELEG-Borbede BD-99

Guess who's not buying one of those now? I think I'll settle with a Owon B41T+. No I don't need a Fluke. Not yet

Hello Uni-T UT195DS 

[Andrey_irk]

I have bought two Aneng meters.   They were both crap, inaccurate and built or poor materials.  I will not buy another.

What models? I own a few and they're pretty good for what they are. Accuracy is spot on.

I have two 8008s and two colleagues of mine have them, too. All the meters have problems with rotary switches. I's got to the point where it switches on and off randomly, the resistance is all over the place and so on. It is fixable, but you have to take it apart and clean the contacts - and in a few days the problem is back.
I'd rather use the old cheap ones with a manual range switch and 2000 counts because these just work.

[Fungus]

I have two 8008s and two colleagues of mine have them, too. All the meters have problems with rotary switches. I's got to the point where it switches on and off randomly

My 8008 does that, too.

[Fungus]

That’s the sort of thing that would piss me right off and result in it being returned 

Agreed. I'am looking at the new UT61E+ / UT161E but by the looks of things Uni-T has cursed these models with those fake bargraphs but I could be wrong. For me it's a showstopper.

I saw a promotional video for the UT161E and the bargraph seems really terrible. The UT61E bargraph is very nice and has a bit of dampening that is just right.

The point of the bar graph is that it should update much faster than the main display and show you when the signal is unstable.

If it moves in steps of 2? No biggie (IMHO). If it updates at the same rate as the main display? Worthless.

[Fungus]

Weird how we're discussing Uni-Ts in the Aneng thread and Anengs in the Unit-T thread.

[floobydust]

I have two 8008s and two colleagues of mine have them, too. All the meters have problems with rotary switches. I's got to the point where it switches on and off randomly

My 8008 does that, too.

I also find their rotary switch is a true piece of shit   The "copper" piece can't get along with the pcb ENIG. I think recycled pop can would be a better metal. Taiwan had better plating/materials 40 years ago.
So I can't use their products until they FIX THIS. Phospor coated bronze? Better contact shapes? Rocket science.

[xavier60]

My AN8008 worked fine today after sitting idle for a year. When I pulled it apart to grease the contacts, I found them already well greased. I might have done it when I first got it, can't remember.
I'm going to put the meter back into service with AAA NiMh cells.

[floobydust]

What, you live in the desert or maybe you have the Outback edition lol. Humidity really aggravates it.
My AN8008 switch is some copperish coloured metal that is probably anodized aluminium they way it oxidized. I've tried three different contact cleaners and lubes, and after a couple weeks it's always making bad connections. I wonder if ANENG has changed to something better.

[xavier60]

What, you live in the desert or maybe you have the Outback edition lol. Humidity really aggravates it.
My AN8008 switch is some copperish coloured metal that is probably anodized aluminium they way it oxidized. I've tried three different contact cleaners and lubes, and after a couple weeks it's always making bad connections. I wonder if ANENG has changed to something better.

I'm on the East coast of Australia, it becomes very humid at times.
If I had greased it myself when it was new, it would have been with PAO based Super Lube, which is a clear grease, which is what I found on the PCB switch contacts today. Are they normally greased from factory?

[Fungus]

I found them already well greased. I might have done it when I fist got it, can't remember.

That must have been you. They don't normally have grease.

[rsjsouza]

That’s the sort of thing that would piss me right off and result in it being returned 

Agreed. I'am looking at the new UT61E+ / UT161E but by the looks of things Uni-T has cursed these models with those fake bargraphs but I could be wrong. For me it's a showstopper.

I saw a promotional video for the UT161E and the bargraph seems really terrible. The UT61E bargraph is very nice and has a bit of dampening that is just right.

The point of the bar graph is that it should update much faster than the main display and show you when the signal is unstable.

If it moves in steps of 2? No biggie (IMHO). If it updates at the same rate as the main display? Worthless.

I know this, but I suspect I should have said "smoothness" instead of "dampening". The UT61E bargraph has a fluidity that looks really good and does not detract from its functionality IMO.

[floobydust]

I'm probably wrong complaining about the rotary switch "copper" leafs, as the thermal EMF (Seebeck coefficient) with Cu+Au is quite low and might be the intent - not cheapness.
I took the AN8008 apart, cleaned the rotary switch contacts and gave them a coating of PPE. Then the battery holder was cutting out, so I put some there and all is well. No other gear I own has issues like this with oxidation in low humidity, it's strange.

Making Precision Low Voltage and Low Resistance Measurements  Keithley

[Stinger]

Hello,

I hope newer AN8008 with min/max, Rel and classics fuses size.

[Gandalf_Sr]

I just ordered an Orange Aneng Q10 just for the halibut.

[Fungus]

I hope newer AN8008 with min/max, Rel and classics fuses size.

I think that's what the Q10 is.

[Fungus]

I just ordered an Orange Aneng Q10 just for the halibut.

 

Be sure to report back on diode test voltage (would it kill them to put that number in the info??) and how loud the beeper is. 

[xavier60]

It's unlikely that a meter power by 2 cells will forward bias a white LED.
The exception is the Fluke 18B+ which has a dedicated LED test range which outputs auto polarity 12V.

[Fungus]

It's unlikely that a meter power by 2 cells will forward bias a white LED.

It has white LEDs in the fancy screen... how does that work??   

[HKJ]

It's unlikely that a meter power by 2 cells will forward bias a white LED.

Why? Many DMM chips has a build in capacitive boost converter.

[xavier60]

How they power the back light LEDs, didn't occur to me. Maybe some sort of capacitive boost converter.
I have just checked my AN8008 with a fresh pair of alkaline cells.
Oddly it outputs slightly more voltage on the Diode test range, 3.2V, than what I measure at the battery, 3.18V.
And it does light a white power LED at "2.451V".
It might even work with the NiMh cells when they arrrive.

[Gandalf_Sr]

Be sure to report back on diode test voltage (would it kill them to put that number in the info??) and how loud the beeper is. 

I will but it will take 7 - 10 days to get to me.

[Gandalf_Sr]

So I ordered from Banggood.com, if you go to their site, search for the Q10, and then scroll down to the detail pictures you will see:

1. It uses 3 x AAA batteries
2. There's a picture showing what looks like a white LED under diode test showing a forward voltage of 2.523V
3. Resistance goes up to 99.99 Meg 

[xavier60]

How does the white on black display work? Is the back light always on?

[rsjsouza]

I just ordered an Orange Aneng Q10 just for the halibut.

Against my better judgment, I ordered its close cousin - the SZ18. It'll take a while to get it here

[Fungus]

How does the white on black display work? Is the back light always on?

Yes.

[Fungus]

1. It uses 3 x AAA batteries
2. There's a picture showing what looks like a white LED under diode test showing a forward voltage of 2.523V

Aha! So it does at least 2.5V!

Against my better judgment, I ordered its close cousin - the SZ18. It'll take a while to get it here

That's the one I'd get... but I'm fighting back the GAS.  I just got an Aneng 870 (last week!) and I already had a Micsig earlier this month.

[Gandalf_Sr]

Hmmm, I didn't see the SZ18 before you guys mentioned it but I just ran a side-by-side comparison on the specs and they appear to be identical.  Both Banggood pages (for the Q10 and SZ18) say in the spec table that they take 3 x AA but then, further down in the graphics, they both say 3 x AAA - I guess we'll find out soon.

Obviously the SZ18 has the color variants in the legend around the rotary selector dial but I can't see any other differences?  I prefer the color scheme on the Q10, at least you can more easily see what the default function is with the de facto standard that the orange/yellow functions are auxillary.

Oh and I checked, yes they both have an LED flashlight.

[EDIT] The SZ18 is $1 more on Banggood but they charge $6.34 shipping for the SZ18 vs $4.02 for the Q10 so the Q10 works out $1.32 cheaper.  Also there are reviews for the SZ18 but none for the Q10 so it looks like the Q10 is a newer model (just guessing here).

[Fungus]

Hmmm, I didn't see the SZ18 before you guys mentioned it but I just ran a side-by-side comparison on the specs and they appear to be identical.  Both Banggood pages (for the Q10 and SZ18) say in the spec table that they take 3 x AA but then, further down in the graphics, they both say 3 x AAA - I guess we'll find out soon.

Yes, they seem identical. 

Looking at the dimensions I'd put my money on 3xAAA. I don't think that 3xAA will fit.

Battery life will probably be a weak point with AAA and that always-on screen.

[Gandalf_Sr]

Hi Fungus

I found the SZ18 user manual here.  It says 3 x AAA so I think you're right.  Also, the manual says that diode test goes up to 3.0V which I know you were interested in.

[tszaboo]

I'm struggling to think of a reason why you would want it to link to your phone via Bluetooth when it doesn't do data logging

There is a good reason for it, I've used it in the past. So you have a large prototype boards, lots of testpoints, and you are supposed to verify that all the resistors are good on it. There was an excel sheet, with the testpoints listed on it, and I've just used a Keysight 1242 with it's bluetooth connected to the laptop, and connected to excel. So I read the testpoints to be a measured, found them on the board, placed the probes, touch-hold, and it beep-booped the data into excel. Quite convenient, the test was done in minutes, instead of writing anything down by hand.
And this required an enormous amount of software work on their side, including makros for excel. And this is something that a chinese company will not understand why you would need it. They just place bluetooth, because other have it, and completely won't do the research on how you actually use it.

[Fungus]

Hi Fungus

Hi.

Also, the manual says that diode test goes up to 3.0V which I know you were interested in.

It actually says: "Displays 0L above 3V" 

[Gandalf_Sr]

Also, the manual says that diode test goes up to 3.0V which I know you were interested in.

It actually says: "Displays 0L above 3V" 

You're right, so I assumed/inferred/extrapolated that it would read diode forward voltage up to 3.0V    BTW what country is '00'? Is it Pedantland?

The web page for the SZ18 also says... "Not good for beauty, functions are more intimate..." so I presume that, if you're in the beauty profession, you should choose the Q10.

[Fungus]

It actually says: "Displays 0L above 3V" 

You're right, so I assumed/inferred/extrapolated that it would read diode forward voltage up to 3.0V 

Yes but it implies the output voltage can go above 3.0V if needed. 

I just wanted to know if it'll light up big white LEDs. I think it will.

BTW what country is '00'? Is it Pedantland?

Null.

[Gandalf_Sr]

I just wanted to know if it'll light up big white LEDs. I think it will.

I think it will too; assuming you're not in the Nulland beauty business, I think you should order a Q10

[rsjsouza]

Hmmm, I didn't see the SZ18 before you guys mentioned it but I just ran a side-by-side comparison on the specs and they appear to be identical.  Both Banggood pages (for the Q10 and SZ18) say in the spec table that they take 3 x AA but then, further down in the graphics, they both say 3 x AAA - I guess we'll find out soon.

Obviously the SZ18 has the color variants in the legend around the rotary selector dial but I can't see any other differences?  I prefer the color scheme on the Q10, at least you can more easily see what the default function is with the de facto standard that the orange/yellow functions are auxillary.

Oh and I checked, yes they both have an LED flashlight.

[EDIT] The SZ18 is $1 more on Banggood but they charge $6.34 shipping for the SZ18 vs $4.02 for the Q10 so the Q10 works out $1.32 cheaper.  Also there are reviews for the SZ18 but none for the Q10 so it looks like the Q10 is a newer model (just guessing here).

Yes, both seem identical apart from the colorful range silk screen - I also prefer the Q10 silk. Also, the Q10 name follows some sort of Aneng convention (they have the Q1), while SZ18 came from who knows where. I wonder if the SZ18 was a trial run to test the model?

At any rate, I could not find any independent reviews on both meters - everything I see seems a marketing pitch.

The manual is reasonable well written (in contrast with the marketing blobs) and hopefully the meter is reasonable as well - just like the AN870/RM219, this class of equipment always comes with a compromise.

One interesting note: I got the SZ18 at 11.11 and it was 2~3 dollars cheaper than the Q10 at the Aneng official store at Aliexpress.

[Electro Fan]

Obviously the SZ18 has the color variants in the legend around the rotary selector dial but I can't see any other differences?  I prefer the color scheme on the Q10, at least you can more easily see what the default function is with the de facto standard that the orange/yellow functions are auxillary.

+1 for the Q10 color scheme for the reason you state (but it’s nice to have choices ).

One other difference is that prominently printed below the display and above the four buttons the Q10 says “AUTO POWER OFF” and the SZ18 says “Digital Multimeter” and “TRUE RMS”.  I guess it depends on which of those you would find to be most useful in case either you were not aware, or you forgot and needed a reminder.  Always interesting to see how the product and marketing teams choose to use the available labeling space.

[Electro Fan]

Gotta show some respect - this is a pretty good summary video.  Not super technical with precision measurement testing but pretty good as an intro.

https://youtu.be/6KNNhbND2nI

If people can figure out how to design, build, and sell a DMM with these capabilities in this price range it’s reasonably likely they can figure out the marketing too (or already have).

[HKJ]

There is a good reason for it, I've used it in the past. So you have a large prototype boards, lots of testpoints, and you are supposed to verify that all the resistors are good on it. There was an excel sheet, with the testpoints listed on it, and I've just used a Keysight 1242 with it's bluetooth connected to the laptop, and connected to excel. So I read the testpoints to be a measured, found them on the board, placed the probes, touch-hold, and it beep-booped the data into excel. Quite convenient, the test was done in minutes, instead of writing anything down by hand.
And this required an enormous amount of software work on their side, including makros for excel. And this is something that a chinese company will not understand why you would need it. They just place bluetooth, because other have it, and completely won't do the research on how you actually use it.

I got inspired and next version of TestController https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/program-that-can-log-from-many-multimeters/ will support this functionality with any connected multimeter.

[Shiv]

Here is the calibration of my AN8009:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1J-FscEkifSrEZ5QWuoZa_VyIelKbb4NYKY4PjNLpV5I/edit?usp=sharing

Done in a cal lab with traceable equipment (5500A,5700A,5790A,3458A,...)

I like it so much than 15.99 USD

[rsjsouza]

Gotta show some respect - this is a pretty good summary video.  Not super technical with precision measurement testing but pretty good as an intro.

It is a good introductory video and I have seen this done for some other meters as well.

If people can figure out how to design, build, and sell a DMM with these capabilities in this price range it’s reasonably likely they can figure out the marketing too (or already have).

They know how to design and build DMMs, they just need to keep fixing the various kinks (which are improving little by little over time) and wether stop lying about the CAT ratings or learn to design a better input protection. I just opened my RM219 (AN870) and they have no shame in claiming so much CAT IV energy on a puny single PTC.

[Gandalf_Sr]

My Q10 shipped out from Banggood on Nov 15th, it says the expected delivery date is Jan 5, 2021 but I suspect (hope) it will arrive sooner than that.

I don't believe the CAT ratings on Aneng meters but, for $31, I am happy to use on bench work and up to 115V AC stuff.  I have two AN8008s (one black one red) and they are little champs.

Maybe we'll be able to figure out how to do the calibration for the Q10?

[rsjsouza]

My Q10 shipped out from Banggood on Nov 15th, it says the expected delivery date is Jan 5, 2021 but I suspect (hope) it will arrive sooner than that.

I hope your meter arrives before Christmas!  Mine is said to arrive by Dec 15th.

I don't believe the CAT ratings on Aneng meters but, for $31, I am happy to use on bench work and up to 115V AC stuff.  I have two AN8008s (one black one red) and they are little champs.

I don't either and I use my RM113D and the RM219 on the bench as well. TBH 115V is also fine, but if the rotary switch is left in a wrong position, I strongly suspect it will not survive.

[tszaboo]

There is a good reason for it, I've used it in the past. So you have a large prototype boards, lots of testpoints, and you are supposed to verify that all the resistors are good on it. There was an excel sheet, with the testpoints listed on it, and I've just used a Keysight 1242 with it's bluetooth connected to the laptop, and connected to excel. So I read the testpoints to be a measured, found them on the board, placed the probes, touch-hold, and it beep-booped the data into excel. Quite convenient, the test was done in minutes, instead of writing anything down by hand.
And this required an enormous amount of software work on their side, including makros for excel. And this is something that a chinese company will not understand why you would need it. They just place bluetooth, because other have it, and completely won't do the research on how you actually use it.

I got inspired and next version of TestController https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/program-that-can-log-from-many-multimeters/ will support this functionality with any connected multimeter.

Cool. I'll take a look at this software.

[Stinger]

I hope newer AN8008 with min/max, Rel and classics fuses size.

I think that's what the Q10 is.

Yes, but Q10 is bigger than AN8008 (147*76*38mm   vs   130*65*32mm).

And i see it's possible to add fonctions in case.

link

[lehoangtm]

I got this meter (Aneng Q10) for a few weeks but didn’t really use it much, mainly because I have way too many cheap multimeters already. Just open it up to take some photos with my shitty phone - hope it still helps. English isn’t my first language so please pardon my mistake if any, thank you.
Just a quick test compared to other Aneng meters that I currently have in hand and a Fluke 189 as ref.

Few points:

• Both Volt and Amp mode are very accurate on all ranges, except for micro amps with a bit off - same behavior with 800x series and AN870.
• Autorange is quite fast.
• The flashlight is bright and quite useful, sometimes.
• Continuity is pretty slow (compared to AN870). However, it now has a led indicator on top.
• Fake bargraph: the meter group 3 segment into one and the update rate is the same with the measurement (similar with Q1). 
• Burden voltage:  at 100mA -> 270mV, at 1A -> 24.6mV, at 5A -> 129mV.   
• Great display at this price point (my main reason to buy it). It has a higher contrast than Q1 (Pls see photo - not mine as I gave my Q1 to a friend already). Current consumption is ~23,5 mA, a bit higher than Q1 (~20mA according to https://lygte-info.dk/review/DMMAnengQ1%20UK.html). Note that this meter uses 3 AAA instead of 2 AA of Q1, so you can expect a short working time.
• The meter survives on 220v main (rotate to all modes). However, I didn’t test the accuracy after that.
• Build quality is similar to Q1 (quite OK for price range): feel quite good in your hand (but don’t press on the screen cover like me). The stand is really bad. And no, you can not use the switch or press the btn with 1 hand on your bench.
• The DMM chip is DTM0660L, now in a proper package instead of a black blob.
• Battery compartment is now separate and contacted with the PCB by 2 springs. 
• The rotary switch is tight but feels quite good. You can easily modify the springs to loose them a bit - much better for my taste.
• The Amp input jacks are now moved to the main PCB. And because it’s only a single input jack, there is no way to detect if the probe is plugged in or not (unlike Q1). Instead, the meter will continue beeping every ~5s if you switch to Amps mode (the beep will stop when the meter detects an amps measurement, pretty smart).   

I got Q10 for about 25USD, but for now, price has dropped to 20USD (11.11 sale off). Compared to the current price of Q1 (19USD) and AN870 (18USD), it’s still a good buy if you love Aneng. However, from where I live (Vietnam), I can get a Vichy VC97A for 18usd, Uni-T UT61D for 23usd, Fluke 101 for 27usd (without probe) and Uni-T 139E for just 28USD…  I can not recommend this meter, mainly because of the price point.
Aside from the price, if I have to choose 1 Aneng meter for daily work, I will go for AN870. If I have to pick one for field service, I will go for this Q10.

[lehoangtm]

Few more photos for volt/Amps and an Aneng 8009 for size comparison.
Edit: fixed the wrong attachment.

[rsjsouza]

This is an excellent overview and tests, thank you very much!

By the way, your English is quite good.

[xavier60]

And what other manufacturers have steel balls in the dent mechanism?

[exe]

Slow continuity, oh no . I think I'll cancel my order.

[Fungus]

Slow continuity, oh no . I think I'll cancel my order.

   How slow is "slower than an 870"? The 870 is damn fast.

[floobydust]

This venerable chipset, the only one in town... H08A seems to be an 8-bit 4MHz 256B RAM 8051 knockoff so don't expect a speed demon.
The N8 32-bit MCU's with touch are 20MHz used in blood pressure, kitchen scales and maybe the newer breed?

Here's the expired '89 Actron patent being copied for their rotary switch, complete with detent steel balls; not a problem (flying off the bench) if you magnetize them.
Fluke 77 patent on their one-piece, 4 pole moulded detent mechanism is gorgeous. Back from the days when people innovated instead of copying. Really nice.

[rsjsouza]

Here's the expired '89 Actron patent being copied for their rotary switch, complete with detent steel balls; not a problem (flying off the bench) if you magnetize them.

Pretty cool, thanks for sharing. The drawings are the exact blueprint that Mastech used in several of their meters, including the all-time champ of knockoffs M830B.

Fluke 77 patent on their one-piece, 4 pole moulded detent mechanism is gorgeous. Back from the days when people innovated instead of copying. Really nice.

Yes... Unfortunately innovation costs money. Although the newer design incorporated in the Fluke 87 and 170 series is an improvement.

[wizard69]

I'm struggling to think of a reason why you would want it to link to your phone via Bluetooth when it doesn't do data logging

Remote monitoring.    In an industrial environment, when the energies get really high, some times it is good to park yourself some distance from whatever you are trying to monitor.    While sometimes over blown by safety departments, Arc Flash is a very real and very dangerous possibility.

Even though most of the machinery I work on is not in the really high energy categories, I'm still required to take the same old arc flash training on a regular schedule.    Most of that training involves videos of people getting blown up and burnt over most of their body.   Not pretty at all so I can understand how guys that do such work a lot might find use for remote monitoring from time to time.

[floobydust]

Not that these would likely work in a high EMI environment... I thought this pic explains the usefulness, despite having no logging ability. pic from Mooshimeter product.
We could use an open-source standard for Bluetooth wireless multimeters, instead of waiting for every vendor to finish their app.

[Gandalf_Sr]

Hmmm, my Banggood order for my Aneng Q10 appears stuck (as orders from China so often do). Checking with various tracking services shows that the carrier has not yet received the package - nothing has changed for 11 days...

Shipping Method:   Air Parcel Register
Ship From:   CN
Message:   
Tracking Info: 927489098326703829xxxx via Air Parcel Register
Expected delivery date:  2021-01-05 21:35:11
Nov 15, 2020 21:35   Package has been sterilized and shipped out.
Nov 15, 2020 08:45   Our warehouse has started packing your items.
Nov 15, 2020 08:34   Order submit.

[exe]

My seller from ali wasn't sending the order for quite a while, and the shipment deadline was about to expire. I wrote the seller to cancel my order. They came back with the message that my order was shipped :/. I don't know if I wrote too late, or they shipped it against my will.

[rsjsouza]

Hmmm, my Banggood order for my Aneng Q10 appears stuck (as orders from China so often do). Checking with various tracking services shows that the carrier has not yet received the package - nothing has changed for 11 days...

This happened to my order to Richmeters official store back in April - it was stuck in the same stage for about one month before it magically showed on US's shore.

My SZ18 order is at an even prior stage - i.e., the shipping is being prepared, with no information on any of the carriers. This happened to me in the past as well - the meter was in my hand and the tracking info was still saying the product was in China.

I was jumpy in the past, but nowadays I will just wait until the whole thing lapses and I get a refund (if it does not arrive before that).

[spadger]

What about a multimeter with bluetooth-loudspeaker?
ZT-5566, designed by ANENG(zotek).

[Gandalf_Sr]

There's been a whole thread on that one, as I recall, it was an OK meter but it's not one of the new ones that this thread is about.

[LeonR]

Is the Aneng 870 still the go-to for the price class?

[Jan Audio]

The 9002 looks like it has potential to be a worthy successor to the 8008.

Why, it has the same counts.

[exe]

The 9002 looks like it has potential to be a worthy successor to the 8008.

Why, it has the same counts.

It has more buttons, more jacks and other bells and whistles . May be even more current ranges, who knows...

[Fungus]

Is the Aneng 870 still the go-to for the price class?

Yes.

(IMHO)

[rsjsouza]

Is the Aneng 870 still the go-to for the price class?

I agree with Fungus. If you care to look for a thorough review, check the video about Richmeters RM219 (same meter) on my youtube channel (check either my signature below or the small globe under my profile picture). It is a bit long, but hopefully you find it useful.

[Fungus]

Is the Aneng 870 still the go-to for the price class?

I agree with Fungus. If you care to look for a thorough review, check the video about Richmeters RM219 (same meter) on my youtube channel (check either my signature below or the small globe under my profile picture). It is a bit long, but hopefully you find it useful.

It just does everything, and does it well. No weak points at all.

I also prefer the size and feel of the 870 to those other Anengs with their flimsy cases and tiny range selectors. The probe holders on the back are very handy, too.

[Gandalf_Sr]

My seller from ali wasn't sending the order for quite a while, and the shipment deadline was about to expire. I wrote the seller to cancel my order. They came back with the message that my order was shipped :/. I don't know if I wrote too late, or they shipped it against my will.

Banggood, who I've ordered from many times before, says that my order shipped on Nov 15th but the arrival date has now changed to 1/17/21 from 1/5/21 and every time I try to check the tracking number, it says that the shipper is waiting to receive the packet.  I'll give them another day or so and then I may cancel the order to see what happens.

[rsjsouza]

My seller from ali wasn't sending the order for quite a while, and the shipment deadline was about to expire. I wrote the seller to cancel my order. They came back with the message that my order was shipped :/. I don't know if I wrote too late, or they shipped it against my will.

Banggood, who I've ordered from many times before, says that my order shipped on Nov 15th but the arrival date has now changed to 1/17/21 from 1/5/21 and every time I try to check the tracking number, it says that the shipper is waiting to receive the packet.  I'll give them another day or so and then I may cancel the order to see what happens.

Gandalf, I am also on the same pickle with the SZ18. Their explanation is that the routes are somewhat unstable and timings are unknown for the epacket shipping method. At the stage of the order (shipped), they asked me to wait - I don't think I can cancel the order without penalty. I had another order at Ruoshui store and they said the same thing, but before they shipped - I was able to cancel the order immediately and akreadt got a refund
So, it seems it will arrive in 2021... 

[Gandalf_Sr]

Gandalf, I am also on the same pickle with the SZ18. Their explanation is that the routes are somewhat unstable and timings are unknown for the epacket shipping method. At the stage of the order (shipped), they asked me to wait - I don't think I can cancel the order without penalty. I had another order at Ruoshui store and they said the same thing, but before they shipped - I was able to cancel the order immediately and akreadt got a refund
So, it seems it will arrive in 2021...

rsjsouza, thanks for the info.  I already looked for a way to cancel and couldn't find one; presumably because they (claim to) have shipped.  I ordered a pulse oximeter as part of the same order so my total was just over $50 which is supposed to give me free tracking but I think such tracking is close to worthless.  Having paid by PayPal on Nov 15, I will raise a not-received dispute on Dec 15 which will set a clock running that will ensure that I get my money back if the items don't arrive. What annoys me most is that Banggood have changed the expected delivery date from Jan 5 to Jan 17.

[rsjsouza]

Is the Aneng 870 still the go-to for the price class?

I agree with Fungus. If you care to look for a thorough review, check the video about Richmeters RM219 (same meter) on my youtube channel (check either my signature below or the small globe under my profile picture). It is a bit long, but hopefully you find it useful.

It just does everything, and does it well. No weak points at all.

I also prefer the size and feel of the 870 to those other Anengs with their flimsy cases and tiny range selectors. The probe holders on the back are very handy, too.

One bad mechanical aspect of my RM219 (maybe the AN870 is different) is that the tilting bale is hinged on the rubber/plastic protection holster. This completely kills its mechanical robustness and makes it cave when a rotary switch is being used or a probe is inserted. Apart from that and the low frequency bandwidth (mine goes up to 3.4kHz) it is quite good.

[Fungus]

One bad mechanical aspect of my RM219 (maybe the AN870 is different) is that the tilting bale is hinged on the rubber/plastic protection holster. This completely kills its mechanical robustness and makes it cave when a rotary switch is being used or a probe is inserted. Apart from that and the low frequency bandwidth (mine goes up to 3.4kHz) it is quite good.

I don't know of any meter that would let you insert/remove probes one-handedly when it's standing up.

My fluke 27 will let you turn the selector when it's on the stand but it has a huge stand. I don't know of any others. My Brymen moves around the table.

[rsjsouza]

One bad mechanical aspect of my RM219 (maybe the AN870 is different) is that the tilting bale is hinged on the rubber/plastic protection holster. This completely kills its mechanical robustness and makes it cave when a rotary switch is being used or a probe is inserted. Apart from that and the low frequency bandwidth (mine goes up to 3.4kHz) it is quite good.

I don't know of any meter that would let you insert/remove probes one-handedly when it's standing up.

My fluke 27 will let you turn the selector when it's on the stand but it has a huge stand. I don't know of any others. My Brymen moves around the table.

UT61E for starters. 87V, U1282A, U1273A and many others don't balk at a light push towards them. Heck, even the mini Richmeters 113D.

The probe insert/remove is not a huge problem - after all, the jacks are near the bottom of the instrument. However, the rotary switch of the RM219 is somewhat stiffer than the normal and, after the fourth or fifth switch, I have to "reset" the tilting bale to is normal standing position.

[rernexy]

Pic of my AN9002 opened up.
I can take more photos, and maybe video of the bluetooth app if anyone is interested.

Edit 1: Added 2 more photos aneng9002-open-02b.jpg aneng9002-open-03b.jpg

[rernexy]

More photos of the input jacks on my AN9002

Edit 1: Add blurry photo of bluetooth chip.

[exe]

Got my q10. What I can say, I'm less than impressed. The inverted display feels slow, bundled probes are useless (don't even pass continuity tests when touching each other until I press really hard). Continuity test is horrible, it seems it's implemented in software as bargraph updated before the meter reacts with beep and red led. Well, at least it has a flashlight... I think I'll get rid of it.

AN8002/AN8008 remain my favorite meters so far, although one of them started to go nuts in mV mode, sometimes showing up to 20mV offset until I re-set the selector switch. Is that the problem with contacts you folks were talking before?

[floobydust]

UPDATE: I applied CAIG DeoxIT FaderLube D5 to the AN8008 rotary switch contacts and it's working great. It looks like any PPE fixes the copper leafs issue. Before, I'd tried cleaning with IPA and a soft scrub on the copper, then lube- which only works for a few weeks even in a dry workshop.

Before, I find an oxidized rotary switch gives bad, wandering readings on continuity/200R scale, or power cutting out.  You'd have to do the ritual back and forth a few times to scrub off oxide, which also seems to make an offset potential which could be what that you are seeing.

This DMM chip set is kinda old, they have milked the cow for many years. It needs to advance from 8-bit clunker at 4MHz with a few KB OTP and few hundred bytes RAM. They can't keep adding features in assembly language, kinda tricky.

[rernexy]

I've had the 618A and 619A for a few weeks. Already set them aside. Couldn't turn off their "Smart AUTO" test mode, the one that guesses whether you are testing AC, DC or resistance. I should get around to asking Aneng about that.

[rernexy]

pics of my 619A

[Gandalf_Sr]

It's just shy of a month since I ordered the Q10 from Banggood; all that time, the tracking says "Package has been sterilized and shipped out."

I raised a ticket through PayPal and Banggood have responded saying that the tracking won't show anything until the meter arrives in the USA; they ask that I wait longer. I have until Jan 2 before the PayPal ticket auto-closes.

It's about as exciting as watching paint dry.

[rsjsouza]

It's just shy of a month since I ordered the Q10 from Banggood; all that time, the tracking says "Package has been sterilized and shipped out."

I raised a ticket through PayPal and Banggood have responded saying that the tracking won't show anything until the meter arrives in the USA; they ask that I wait longer. I have until Jan 2 before the PayPal ticket auto-closes.

It's about as exciting as watching paint dry.

I am on the same boat as well... I had this happen before, thus I am not in a hurry to receive it. Aliexpress still says 57 days, 20 hours and 24 minutes until the order is closed - until then I have nothing to do.

In older orders where this happened, the item showed up or Aliexpress refunded me without a problem, so I am not terribly concerned with this as well.

[ralphrmartin]

I ordered a meter from Aneng Factory Store on Taobao, and got it here (the UK) directly in under 2 weeks. Maybe that is more effective than go through a third party seller?

[rsjsouza]

I got it from the Aneng official store, thus moderately safe. However, they sent a message saying the epacket shipping method chosen by me was having severe delays and asked me to switch the shipping method to Aliexpress standard shipping or something like that. This message arrived during the night here and, when I got to it, they told me they had delivered this to the courier and couldn't be changed anymore.

The Ruoshui official store mentioned the same problem, but I caught the message in time and ended up cancelling the order.

[Fungus]

I ordered a meter from Aneng Factory Store on Taobao, and got it here (the UK) directly in under 2 weeks. Maybe that is more effective than go through a third party seller?

I believe many Chinese sellers don't have stocks. They advertise stuff and if somebody orders one they go to the downtown market to try and find one. If they can't find one... they'll try again later.

Buying directly from the Aneng Official Store is probably better.

[rernexy]

I got it from the Aneng official store, thus moderately safe. However, they sent a message saying the epacket shipping method chosen by me was having severe delays and asked me to switch .....

They (Aneng Official Store on aliexpress) sent me the same message; that was for an order of 4 meters on November 8th. The package arrived on December 4th.

[Gandalf_Sr]

Well, after around 7 weeks, it seems there's a package arriving soon; it's got to within 58 miles of my house anyway according to FedEx!

With luck like this, there may even be a Q10 in the package.

[rsjsouza]

 

Well, after around 7 weeks, it seems there's a package arriving soon; it's got to within 58 miles of my house anyway according to FedEx!

With luck like this, there may even be a Q10 in the package.

Gandalf, congratulations! Mine is still either in a ship in the middle of the ocean or on its bottom. I still have 37 days to consider it lost for good.

[Gandalf_Sr]

My FedEx tracking now says "Out for Delivery".  I already raised a PayPal case although I have been  recently unimpressed with PayPal's buyer protection but, if you don't follow their process rules, you fall off the table and your claim is lost. 

I recently bought a "new" guitar from ProAudioStar that was clearly used (open box, had scratches, and a broken string) and paid using PayPal.  When the item arrived I complained to ProAudioStar and got no response so I raised a claim with PayPal who said I had to return the guitar (at my expense) for a full refund.  Shipping would have been at least $50 so I then managed to have an online chat with ProAudioStar who apologized and offered me a $75 partial refund which I accepted.  I passed the transcript of that chat to PayPal but they immediately closed the case without contacting me. I contacted PayPal again and they said they would reopen the case but they haven't.

So I raised the claim with PayPal for my meter not received because you have to claim within a certain timeframe (which I'm now outside) but, if the meter arrives defective or broken or they send me something else like a TV remote 'condom' (that has actually happened to me), I might be able to get my money back. 

[EDIT] It arrived and looks good.  The packaging was non-existent, just the Q10 box inside a plastic shipping bag.  I'll post some pictures soon.

[Gandalf_Sr]

OK, here are the pics.  The first one where it looks like the screen is cracked on the Q10 is just a reflection.

The 5.001 display is the Q10 connected to my DMM Check +, seems nuts on for Volts DC and mA anyway.  The rotary switch has a nice easy feel to it and the meter was smaller than I expected but I really like the size.

[rsjsouza]

Congratulations, Gandalf! It is indeed a good looking meter.

In my case, Aneng Official Store insists they shipped the meter, but there are absolutely zero updates on the tracking. Oh well... In about a month I will dispute and leave a bad review in case the meter is a no-show.

[floobydust]

What's the Q10 stand like?  The LCD characters look smaller than the AN8008.

[Electro Fan]

What's the Q10 stand like?  The LCD characters look smaller than the AN8008.

Maybe smaller but possibly more contast?

[Gandalf_Sr]

Guys, the stand is just a flap of plastic, a larger version of the AN8008 arrangement really but it is fine.  There's a battery box under the flap that takes 3 x AAAs.  Here's a couple more pictures for you which show the stand as well as the nice clear display.  I agree that the digits are ever so slightly smaller than the AN8008's but, overall, the display is clear and bright; contrast is great too.

[Fungus]

What's the black piece on the top?

[Gandalf_Sr]

What's the black piece on the top?

The one nearest to the camera is the NCV sensor, the far one is the LED flashlight.

[rsjsouza]

Gandalf, thanks for the photos. The display illumination seems much more evenly distributed than the ones I have seen and reviewed. Pretty cool.

I like the reverse LCD for the work in the attic and other darker areas. It is also much easier to read as I age.

[Fungus]

The display illumination seems much more evenly distributed than the ones I have seen and reviewed.

I think he just got lucky with the exposure on that photo. The other one is probably closer to the truth:



I don't own one (yet) but I imagine they're easier to read than standard LCDs indoors with regular lighting. I'm more worried about battery use and longevity of the LEDS (how hard are they driving them?)

[Fungus]

Gandalf: How many mA does it guzzle with that display? How many LEDs does it  have?

[Gandalf_Sr]

Fungus, the display is bright, clear, perfect contrast, and awesome. As I said before, the picture you reposted is due to my crap photography skills and lots of reflected light in my workshop.

I will check the current draw and get back to you.  When you say how many LEDs, do you mean backlight for the display?  There is one LED for the flashlight which is the usual cheap bluish-white, I see that as a gimmick really.

I really like the Q10 so far, the size is what I like most about it.

[Fungus]

I will check the current draw and get back to you.  When you say how many LEDs, do you mean backlight for the display?

Yep. I'm trying to find out how hard they're driving the LEDs, ie. Current draw / number of LEDs.

Second question would be if there's a DC booster inside it or if they're driven directly by the batteries. Is there anything that looks like a DC booster on the PCB? (small IC with an inductor right next to it where the battery connects to the board)

One way to find out would be if the current draw goes up as the battery voltage goes down.

[Fungus]

I really like the Q10 so far, the size is what I like most about it.

Yep, it looks like a nice meter. I really want one but I'm fighting the urge - I already have a drawer full of ANENGS.

The one thing that bothers me is having the Ohms/Continuity/Diode/Capacitance all on the same selector position

(but my AN870 also does that  )

[Electro Fan]

I really like the Q10 so far, the size is what I like most about it.

Yep, it looks like a nice meter. I really want one but I'm fighting the urge - I already have a drawer full of ANENGS.

If you get to one full drawer of Anengs it’s like having 19 oscilloscopes, you have reached par and earn the merit badge for that category.  Some merit badges are more impressive than others and I’m not saying that a drawer full of Anengs is as cool as 19 oscilloscopes but a TEA merit badge is a TEA merit badge and I think with 21 merit badges you are a TEA Eagle Scout. 

[rsjsouza]

I really like the Q10 so far, the size is what I like most about it.

Yep, it looks like a nice meter. I really want one but I'm fighting the urge - I already have a drawer full of ANENGS.

If you get to one full drawer of Anengs it’s like having 19 oscilloscopes, you have reached par and earn the merit badge for that category.  Some merit badges are more impressive than others and I’m not saying that a drawer full of Anengs is as cool as 19 oscilloscopes but a TEA merit badge is a TEA merit badge and I think with 21 merit badges you are a TEA Eagle Scout. 

Damn... I am well past beyond that, but I have been resisting bravely to join the ranks... Got to keep the denial as much as I can! 

[Gandalf_Sr]

I tested the Q10 current draw today, it was 23 mA which is kind of high but it should get about 40 hours continuous operation from a set of AAA batteries.

[Fungus]

I tested the Q10 current draw today, it was 23 mA which is kind of high but it should get about 40 hours continuous operation from a set of AAA batteries.

 

There's definitely more than one LED in the screen (maybe four...?) so even if it has a DC booster the max current through any given LED can't be more then about 10mA. Probably more like 5mA.

Seems like a nice meter overall, a decent step up from the old AN800n models. 

(must resist the temptation... )

[Gandalf_Sr]

Use the force, let go Fungus...   

[precaud]

(must resist the temptation... )

Nice, readable display, but the AAA batteries is a deal-breaker for me.

[Gandalf_Sr]

(must resist the temptation... )

Nice, readable display, but the AAA batteries is a deal-breaker for me.

You will be assimilated into the Aneng collective precaud, resistance is futile.

[precaud]

You will be assimilated into the Aneng collective precaud, resistance is futile.

Ha! Not tempted in the least! (I do have an 8008, though)

[Gandalf_Sr]

You will be assimilated into the Aneng collective precaud, resistance is futile.

Ha! Not tempted in the least! (I do have an 8008, though)

Not at all tempted eh?  I like my two 8008s (one red one black) but I think the Q10 is nicer.  Having said that, one of my 8008s was < $10 US shipped from China!  The Q1 was $32 and took months to arrive.

[rsjsouza]

Ok, I caved before the expiration date on the Aneng store's order on the SZ18: two days ago I ordered the Bside ZT-Y that was avaliable at Aliexpress with stock in the USA - it arrived today in an Amazon Prime package and it is quite a nice meter.

As for the poor Aneng, I don't think the "Aneng offical store"  shipped it at all, as the tracking did not move past the tracking number creation since November. Well, I have about ten more days to declare it fully lost. If it arrives, I am pretty sure it will sell fast.

[Gandalf_Sr]

Interesting, is the SZ18 the same meter as the Q10 but with a different rainbow legend around the dial?

[rsjsouza]

Yes, they both seem quite the same meter internally and with different graphics outside.

So far it is well built externally, although I worry about how durable is the red rubber insert in the rotary switch. It feels nice to the touch indeed, but I suspect it will start to fall off if put under some abuse.

Ah, the EBTN display is really good - a stark contrast to the RM102Pro and the UT123 that I have tested. Some folks mentioned the UT139S also has a very decent display.

I didn't yet have time to disassemble mine.

[Jan Audio]

I cant find the AN870 for under €20,- delivered, only for 37 dollar + ship, you all talked the price up, they are reading.

[rsjsouza]

Yes, I got my AN870 for about US$30 in total (ship+tax)... They are looking indeed, especially now that Dave does not review multimeters anymore.

BTW, the Bside ZT-Y:

[Fungus]

I cant find the AN870 for under €20,- delivered

Those days are gone. 

only for 37 dollar + ship, you all talked the price up, they are reading.

You can easily get one for less than that.

eg.
https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005002091475781.html
https://es.aliexpress.com/item/4001265009660.html

[Jan Audio]

I see the 870 now for €30 shipped.
Why do i need 2 meters again ?
I hoped for a 99999 count.

Why dont Dave review Aneng any more ?, to much work all those releases i guess.
Thanks to Daves 8008 review i got into handheld meters and saved me lots of money.

[Fungus]

Why do i need 2 meters again ?

To check them against each other, to measure volts/amps simultaneously, because they're addictive.

I hoped for a 99999 count.

I've never seen a 99999 count meter. There's also this: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Benford%27s_law

Why dont Dave review Aneng any more ?, to much work all those releases i guess.

Dave doesn't seem to do any meters these days. I guess there's not much point; there's too many new meters being released and hundreds of meter review channels out there who instantly jump all over them as soon as they get released.

I also guess that he's not into collecting $25 meters and that any positive review he does is like promoting/advertising the meter, which is a big no-no.

He's also got his own branded meters to sell, so there's that.

Thanks to Daves 8008 review i got into handheld meters and saved me lots of money.

The 870 is a much higher quality meter than the plasticky 8008.  You'll see for yourself when yours arrives. 

[Jan Audio]

The red version is sold out everywhere.

[rsjsouza]

Try the Bside ZT-Y or the Richmeters RM777

[JonasCz]

I took a quick look at the data the 9002 spits out over BLE (I used Bluetility on a recent mac, there's plenty of android apps that will give the same information too) BLE Service FFF0 -> Characteristic FFF4; heres a few of the hex values:

Code: [Select]

Hex: 1B8470B1592AD97A66FA3A 0.000DCV (auto-range)
Hex: 1B8470B1592AD97A66FA3B 0.000DCV (manual)
Hex: 1B8470B1493AD97A66FA3B 00.00DCV (manual)
Hex: 1B8470B1492AC97A66FA3B 000.0DCV (manual)
Hex: 1B8470B1492A297B66FA3B 000.1DCV (manual)
Hex: 1B8470B1492A897C66FA3B 000.2DCV (manual)
Hex: 1B8470B1492AA97E66FA3B 000.3DCV (manual)
Hex: 1B8470B1492A697F66FA3B 000.4DCV (manual)
Hex: 1B8470B1492AE97666FA3B 000.5DCV (manual)
Hex: 1B8470B1492AC97666FA3B 000.6DCV (manual)
Hex: 1B8470B1492AA97B66FA3B 000.7DCV (manual)
Hex: 1B8470B1492AC97E66FA3B 000.8DCV (manual)
Hex: 1B8470B1492AE97E66FA3B 000.9DCV (manual)
Hex: 1B8470B149CAC87A66FA3B 001.0DCV (manual)
Hex: 1B8470B1496ACF7A66FA3B 002.0DCV (manual)
Hex: 1B8470B1494ACD7A66FA3B 003.0DCV (manual)
Hex: 1B8470B1592AD97A6EBA3A 0.000ACV
Hex: 1B8470B1493AD97A66DA3A 00.00mVDC
Hex: 1B8470B1493AD97A6E9A3A 00.00mvDC
Hex: 1B8470B1492AC97A66A83A 000.0ohms
Hex: 1B8470B9492AC97A66A83B 000.0oms (diode/continuity)
Hex: 1B8470B1592AD97A666A3A 0.000DCA
Hex: 1B8470B1592AD97A6E2A3A 0.000ACA
Hex: 1B8470B1493AD97A666A32 00.00DCmA
Hex: 1B8470B1493AD97A6E2A32 00.00DCmA
Hex: 1B8470B1492AC97A666A3E 000.0DCuA
Hex: 1B8470B1492AC97A6E2A3E 000.0ACuA
Hex: 1B8470B149CA783F66AA3B 14 degrees c

Even without reverse engineering the App, it seems like it should be simple enough - with a Sigrok driver it becomes decent cheap meter for data logging or other uses.

The update rate seems pretty fast, around 3-5 / sec or so.

[GrayCat]

Hello!

Anyone here to discover "ANENG 620A"? At last, "Full-screen" multimeter, with control buttons on sides.



Its characteristics are on average for today, but the screen looks amazing!

[Fungus]

Anyone here to discover "ANENG 620A"? At last, "Full-screen" multimeter, with control buttons on sides.

I posted about it here:

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/aneng-takes-the-smartphone-analogy-too-far/

Its characteristics are on average for today, but the screen looks amazing!

Maybe the next one will be touch-screen...

[Bud]

I do not see anything amazing. Elongated characters/digits are hard to read, to switch modes you need to use both hands, and what is the deal with the dicky flimsy acrylic stand ? 

[Fungus]

what is the deal with the dicky flimsy acrylic stand ? 

That's not a standard accessory.

I'm guessing it's just to hold it upright for the video. The leads come out of the bottom so it won't stand up without it.

[GrayCat]

I posted about it here:

But you didn't mention the exact model number, so it is not found by the Search.

[exe]

Anyone here to discover "ANENG 620A"? At last, "Full-screen" multimeter, with control buttons on sides.

How ranges are switched? I don't see any controls...

[Fungus]

Anyone here to discover "ANENG 620A"? At last, "Full-screen" multimeter, with control buttons on sides.

How ranges are switched? I don't see any controls...

They're on the side - in the same place as the volume controls on your smartphone. 

The on/off switch is on the top, too.

[midix]

Excuse me for bringing this up. It's getting a bit confusing to understand which Aneng models are just new&shiny and which ones are actually improved.

Currently, I have a 7$ worth multimeter and I feel it's often slowing me down because it has a manual range switch, no auto off, and no separate inputs for current measurements (oops, accidental shorting of a project is not good).

So, which of all these Anengs is the most appropriate for the following requirements:
- no intention to work with mains; under-12V projects only; occasional hobby-level use
- has auto range with manual range option (many cheaper meters have only one or the other)
- separate input for current
- good continuity check (I've seen from reviews that some Anengs can be worse than others)
- precision - enough with what you usually need for Arduino-type projects
- does not eat batteries too fast
- no all-screen - those just look too fragile to me and are very likely to eat batteries fast
- not exactly a pocket unit but also not unnecessarily huge - every square cm counts on my desk

From the very first search hits, I found AN870 which seems to be very popular still. But Aneng store has made a sneaky move. The price of AN870 is 30 EUR with a nice assortment of all kinds of probes... but the cheapest tracked shipment costs 18 EUR! So, it's 48 EUR (VAT included). And for that price, I can get UNI-T UT139C from a local online store (but with basic probes only).

AN8009 also has higher shipment, so it's 21 + 12 = 33 EUR total. Other Aneng models offer tracked shipment under 10 EUR. Q1 and AN9002 seem to be the bestsellers there. However, if you do more search outside of "Aneng official store", there are actually cheaper options from "Aneng favourable store" and "ANENG01 Store". Go figure, who's the real Aneng there

Is AN870 still worth it or "nothing special" and I can pick Q1, AN8009, AN9002 instead? Or any other model that's even better? I don't care much about Bluetooth on AN9002.

[Fungus]

So, what's the catch here? Is AN870 still worth it.

Yes, but ...

I've got an AN860B+ and an AN870 and I find there's no real difference in practice. The AN870 has another digit on screen, yes, but that's overrated when all your components are 5% tolerance.

I found the screen plastic constantly falls out of my 870 after it took a knock one day. Other people here have said the same thing.

If I had to choose one of them on a budget? I'd get the AN860B+. It's significantly cheaper.

The Aneng 860B+ is hard to find these days but it's just a rebrand of the Zoyi VC17B+ so you might as well get the "original".

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000215450256.html

https://lygte-info.dk/review/DMMAnengAN860B%20UK.html

If you want more counts then maybe the ZT303 is the one to get:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000224226842.html

I think they're hard plastic though, not the nice rubber bumpers of the AN860/AN870/VC17B+

nb. I wouldn't buy any of the fashionable "inverse display" meters, they have the backlight constantly on and are battery hogs.

[rsjsouza]

One thing that is called "the curse of EEVBlog" is that it turned the brand name "Aneng" a very popular one in the electronics community - they are simply capitalizing on this fame.

As Fungus mentioned, if you look behind the brand itself you can find the other brands that sell the same meter - for example, a few years ago I was trying to get a deal on an AN870 and ended up getting it cheaper as a Richmeters RM219 (the OEM for both brands is the Zotek ZT-219) - a similar thing happened with the Bside ZT-Y (instead of the Aneng SZ18).

If you are ok with 6000 counts, I would also take a hard look at the Richmeters RM113D. It is a mechanically well built little meter that checks all the boxes you are looking for, perhaps except for the mA together with V/Ω (but at least uses regular fuses and not tiny ones of the AN8008/8009). I use it extensively as the small meter that fits everywhere.

Good luck!

[ElectricPower]

I have some Aneng meters. Good enough for home use with low voltages. Nobody buy an cheap Aneng meter for probing high voltages. If you'r not stupid then...

[m k]

I bought Aneng for high-ish AC current, but it's a clamp so I'm probably safe.

[orb]

My aneng an870 sometimes shows "err" (or the screen "turns off" for a while) when I change the position of the knob. It causes reset the "apo" setting, the multimeter goes to auto power off.

And... yes, probably here is the answer why it does that way.

What, you live in the desert or maybe you have the Outback edition lol. Humidity really aggravates it.
My AN8008 switch is some copperish coloured metal that is probably anodized aluminium they way it oxidized. I've tried three different contact cleaners and lubes, and after a couple weeks it's always making bad connections. I wonder if ANENG has changed to something better.

[Fungus]

We haven't had a new Aneng meter for ages, I hope they're OK.

[floobydust]

Well, I would say they unfortunately rolled out a few unpopular models lately, as far as form factor, functions etc.  I can't see the cellphone-style or one button automatic deals being hot sellers.
This in an absolutely saturated market - there are dozens of models, brands, private labels out there. It's like spam when you search for one, 1,000's of them.

[nigelwright7557]

Being tight with money I usually use a cheap multimeter.
Finding one that is accurate on low ohms is hard.
I finally found a cheap one that works and its a Kaiweets meter.

[MadScientist]

I like the anengs you get a throwaway meter I have several

[MrAl]

Looks like Aneng has a new collection of meters for the holiday season.

There's a new Bluetooth meter that connects to your phone:



A new pocket multimeter:

Edit: But the screen appears to be horrible in real life - give this one a miss!



A crazy colored new general purpose meter:



A new 9999 count "professional" multimeter:




Edit: That one ^^^ looks suspiciously similar to the crazy colored one. 

What's the range, the true range, on the blue tooth meter?

[MrAl]

Are they still dangerous as fuck though?

if you use protection suit and thick rubber gloves with fire protection, it is pretty safe 

That's why they make a blue tooth version (ha ha) 

[MrAl]

I like the anengs you get a throwaway meter I have several

Like a disposable camera 

[MadScientist]

Exactly , I keep them located near where I needed them in toolboxes etc. whereas I keep the better stuff in my lab/office. Hence one is always to hand

[ElectricPower]

I have an Aneng Q10 and AN8009. They are suprisingly accurate for DC measurements. A great "number two" meter to have, and wery sheap too.

[mwb1100]

Amazon US has the "BSIDE ZT-Y2" on sale for $15 which visually appears to be a near twin of the ANENG Q10.  The differences that are apparent include:

  - the ZT-Y2 doesn't have VFD
  - no  square wave out
  - has a black on white LCD display
  - 6000 count instead of 9999 count (so... a different DMM chipset?)

  - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09KMV5FBN

If you're interested in a cheapo meter, Amazon says there are about a dozen left.

Be sure to check the 50% off coupon.

[coromonadalix]

3D rendered fuses for golden safety!

Double cheap fuses   loll

[Fungus]

Amazon US has the "BSIDE ZT-Y2" on sale for $15 which visually appears to be a near twin of the ANENG Q10. 

They're all made by Zotek: https://zotektools.com/products/

I haven't seen that one with non-inverted screen before, it's almost interesting. 

(but I have no use for feeble non-contact voltage detectors or temperature though and they would annoy me)

[mwb1100]

They're all made by Zotek: https://zotektools.com/products/

I haven't seen that one with non-inverted screen before, it's almost interesting. 

Ahah:  I found a teardown:

Looks pretty much identical to my recollection of the Q10.  Single PTC, small fuses (are they even sand-filled? ceramic?).

Doesn't meet its 100KHz spec for reading frequency.

[Fungus]

Single PTC, small fuses (are they even sand-filled? ceramic?).

If you're worried about arc flash about then maybe don't buy Aneng. 

Buy Aneng for what they are - nice little meters that work great on the bench with 5V, 12V, etc.

[ElectricPower]

Just wonder...

Why is safety so important in a meter that costs 10 dollar? Why not just take it for what it is? In my opinion a godd and sheap number two meter for use in car/boat or in DC circuits off grid.

You don't need a Fluke 289 for measuring a 12V battery or continuity in a DC circuit.

But i'm agreed that everyone that has electronic as hobby must have at least ONE good meter. But as number two meter, i think Aneng Q10 and AN 8009 is good meters.

[mwb1100]

Note to self: don't mention fuses in an Aneng thread...

[ElectricPower]

Note to self: don't mention fuses in an Aneng thread...

I just don't like people making fun of a brand because they don't have the ability to put a fuse that costs twice as much as the multimeter itself.

It's just common sense.

A multimeter that costs 20 dollars is not made for use in the lab or for high voltage. members in this forum should understand this more than anyone else I think.

[floobydust]

Winter Clearance Event Jan.9-13 at Aliexpress ANENG01 Store, ANENG Official Store, ANENG Favourable Store. But I find they added $$ to shipping, too much for my liking.
Dave's link leads to generic "multimeter" query http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/fznLfbK

I think Zotek is the OEM and ANENG, ZOYI, BSIDE etc. are just private label brands. Of the chinese multimeters, in clusters they all use the same design. For the case, LCD display, marketing, cheesy fuses etc. I don't see differences.

You can't have it all - proper rated fuses are huge.

edit: Chinese New Year (Spring Festival) closed Jan.15-Feb.1 taking orders but shipping after that

[Fungus]

Note to self: don't mention fuses in an Aneng thread...

 

[ElectricPower]

I have an ANeng AN870. It has hanged on a screw on the wall in almost 6 mounth without use. For couple of weeks ago i noticed the display (the glass forran the screen) was missing. I found it on the floor....

So i didn't like that meter. Gave me a bad feeling.

My Q10 and AN8009 i am wery happy with. Good meters for the price

[exe]

I have 8002 and 8008 models, and they are not suitable for me for mV range because up to a few mV error. If I wiggle the selector it changes the displayed number . My old ut61e doesn't have that. Too bad, I do mV measurements quite often

[MrAl]

Note to self: don't mention fuses in an Aneng thread...

I just don't like people making fun of a brand because they don't have the ability to put a fuse that costs twice as much as the multimeter itself.

It's just common sense.

A multimeter that costs 20 dollars is not made for use in the lab or for high voltage. members in this forum should understand this more than anyone else I think.

Hi,

Just to note, my comments were for the sole purpose of adding some comedy to the thread following along with the posts i read before that.  I have no experience with these meters at all so cant comment seriously.  When i read the other posts though i had to laugh and the one thing i love besides electronics and related is comedy.

I had a couple cheapie meters in my time, one was a Harbor Freight i think it was $6 USD.  I could not use it at all because the readings would fluctuate when trying to read the automobile voltage while the car engine was running.  I think the ignition firing was messing up the readings.  It was a shame because it had a nice backlight.  Never used it again either.  Ended up in the garbage and i rarely throw anything away like that.

[coromonadalix]

Just wonder...

Why is safety so important in a meter that costs 10 dollar? Why not just take it for what it is? In my opinion a godd and sheap number two meter for use in car/boat or in DC circuits off grid.

You don't need a Fluke 289 for measuring a 12V battery or continuity in a DC circuit.

But i'm agreed that everyone that has electronic as hobby must have at least ONE good meter. But as number two meter, i think Aneng Q10 and AN 8009 is good meters.

You really want an answer  loll    Some people will try to use them on high volatge circuits, they will not care one bit about safety .......  price price price  is all we see sometimes
If it's not them who make the meters, other will replace them and still make those  sh@#@%%   meters  loll


Uni-T  did or still does some crappy meters and some over time have gained some seriousness  .... Choices is yours

[ElectricPower]

Then, they will learn...

[Fungus]

I have an ANeng AN870. It has hanged on a screw on the wall in almost 6 mounth without use. For couple of weeks ago i noticed the display (the glass forran the screen) was missing. I found it on the floor....

That's happened to a lot of people with the 870, including me.

I never had a problem with any other Anengs though.

[ElectricPower]

I think Aneng has some good multimeters for the price. Off curse no Fluke or Brymen killer, men a good number two meter for low voltage measurements.

[Fungus]

I think Aneng has some good multimeters for the price.

I think Aneng has some good multimeters, period.

(and also some bad ones)

[rsjsouza]

We haven't had a new Aneng meter for ages, I hope they're OK.

Aneng has been active, but releasing a lot of products that are not as interesting as the AN8008/8009 with its 10000 counts at dirt cheap prices (the first time I recall they were put on the world's map). About a year ago I got an M118A for evaluation and it was not a good meter. I see they have also diversified a bit with clamps, cellphone-style, electrical testers, measuring devices, etc. Not to mention meters with features such as voice activation, rechargeable batteries, bluetooth, etc.

[tooki]

They are suprisingly accurate for DC measurements.

It’s not hard to make a multimeter that is quite accurate. The difficulty is making one that is just as accurate 30 years later, without any recalibration. (This is something Fluke is exceptionally good at.)

A great "number two" meter to have, and wery sheap too.

Totally agree. I have an 8008 and it’s a great little meter for low-energy circuits.

[LeonR]

Aneng just dropped a new model: SZ20, with 25K counts, dual readings and some nice features like AC+DC mode:



https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005128640327.html

[Fungus]

Aneng just dropped a new model: SZ20, with 25K counts, dual readings and some nice features like AC+DC mode

Speak of the devil... 

I was just thinking they need to make a solid, no-nonsense meter. Maybe this is the one.

Seems to have all the features, plus bar graph. I wonder if it's a true high-update bar graph or if it goes in steps of 4 at the same update rate as the numbers like some of their other meters.

If it's a real bar graph then this could be a meter to watch. 

I don't see it on the Zotek page, I wonder who the OEM is...

The official store has a cheezy video: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004427038388.html

Edit: I wonder what the "DONT INPUT VOLTAGE" segments on the screen are for...

Edit: Accuracy seems very low for a 25000 count meter - only 0.2% on DC voltage. 

[Fungus]

Hang on, I see two more new meters on the store!

There's a "SZ19" 6000 count manual range meter that looks like that other one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004427038388.html

Also a new "V9" meter that goes up to 2000 volts, in the style of their 'chunky range of meters.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005076792395.html

[wasedadoc]

That link two posts above is for the SZ19 which appears to be the non-auto ranging version.  The SZ20 pictured a few posts above has the slightly different "Voltage input forbidden".  Maybe comes on when switched to modes other than voltage/frequency etc.

[Fungus]

This "M20" doesn't ring any bells either:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33011591232.html

It's physically a lot smaller than those others...

[rsjsouza]

These new ones are very similar to Mestek's style, but I don't see them in their page as well...

http://www.mestek-tools.com/

I'll keep looking...

[floobydust]

The Zoyi ZT-Y2 review video in post #189,
I thought the LCD contrast appears not very good, I wish they'd dump the stupid (grouped segments) bargraph for a lower mux factor. Even with higher 4.5V power available, perhaps VDD is 3.6V... it has even worse contrast now.
I have a Mestek with negative contrast LCD, it is quite readable.

[pavlik222]

Hello. This multimeter has a decent temperature drift. The highest accuracy is observed at a temperature of 18 degrees Celsius. The RM219 does not have this - it can be "boiled", but there will be no drift.

[rsjsouza]

The Zoyi ZT-Y2 review video in post #189,
I thought the LCD contrast appears not very good, I wish they'd dump the stupid (grouped segments) bargraph for a lower mux factor. Even with higher 4.5V power available, perhaps VDD is 3.6V... it has even worse contrast now.
I have a Mestek with negative contrast LCD, it is quite readable.

I just did a thorough evaluation of the ZT-Y2 on my channel and indeed the LCD is really not great.

However, one interesting point about this guy is that the protection components and the slots are much better placed on the board (when compared to the ZT-Y), protecting the switch and physically far from the main IC. On my moderate voltage tests the meter survived without trouble, but obviously not CAT III 600V as printed on its fascia. The ceramic fuses are hollow as well, thus fake.

[pavlik222]

Overview of the clone Zoyi ZT-225: https://mysku.club/blog/aliexpress/94958.html

[shapirus]

Overview of the clone Zoyi ZT-225: https://mysku.club/blog/aliexpress/94958.html

Not really a clone, I think. It looks like it's the same meter, manufactured at the same factory and branded individually for whoever is willing to pay for their branding.

[pavlik222]

Overview of the clone Zoyi ZT-225: https://mysku.club/blog/aliexpress/94958.html

Not really a clone, I think. It looks like it's the same meter, manufactured at the same factory and branded individually for whoever is willing to pay for their branding.

Yes, rather Aneng SZ20 is a clone of Zoyi (ZT-225, this is the original from OEM manufacturer Zoyi). The electronic board of my Richmeters RM219 is labeled ZT219.

[pavlik222]

Some more photos of Aneng SZ20 giblets.

[pavlik222]

More.

[floobydust]

That's a FAIL - the MOV's and PTC are on the wrong side of the board! So the PCB trace seeing HV has a long trip across the board and surely arcs to something else.
This is why we TEST the boards to 61010, to catch these mistakes.
It's too bad their PCB designer does not understand high voltage design, and they are the only person in china doing the layout on all of these multimeters. They all have the same mistakes over and over and over.

[exe]

That's a FAIL - the MOV's and PTC are on the wrong side of the board!

Ha-ha, for a moment I thought you meant they should have been mounted on the bottom side of pcb 

[floobydust]

That's a FAIL - the MOV's and PTC are on the wrong side of the board!

Ha-ha, for a moment I thought you meant they should have been mounted on the bottom side of pcb 

Yeah I was meaning left vs right. You can flip it and look at the other side (LCD, rotary switch) and I'll bet it's a disaster following the input jack trace over to the MOV/PTC/MELF's. Could not find board pics of that.
If only they could reverse-engineer a Fluke or Brymen, minus the dyslexia. They should try some real 61010 testing to educate their PCB layout guy.

ZT-Y2 has the extra 4-digit (temperature&freq) display compared to ZT-Y, so I would expect poorer contrast even though it's 3xAAA 4.5V power. The bar graph is grouped so around 20 segments looking like 100 lol. Another waste of mux ratio. More more more but less less less performance.
I'd rather have less information on the LCD and greater contrast. How useful is staring at "0020"? Oh and I know my line frequency DUH.

[Fungus]

Overview of the clone Zoyi ZT-225: https://mysku.club/blog/aliexpress/94958.html

Not really a clone, I think. It looks like it's the same meter, manufactured at the same factory and branded individually for whoever is willing to pay for their branding.

Zoyi are the OEM for these meters. Everybody else is the rebrander.

See how many you recognize: https://zotektools.com/products/

[pavlik222]

See how many you recognize: https://zotektools.com/products/

I wrote about it. Only I don’t understand why there is no ZT-225 multimeter on the official ZOTEK website?

[rsjsouza]

See how many you recognize: https://zotektools.com/products/

I wrote about it. Only I don’t understand why there is no ZT-225 multimeter on the official ZOTEK website?

The ZT-Y2 is not there as well.

IMO the logic is clear: why spend money with web designers in an URL that most probably gets hit at a much lower ratio when compared to a behemoth such as Aliexpress? Just improve the product information on some of your key distributors and use the platform to promote your product.

[floobydust]

Overview of the clone Zoyi ZT-225: https://mysku.club/blog/aliexpress/94958.html

Not really a clone, I think. It looks like it's the same meter, manufactured at the same factory and branded individually for whoever is willing to pay for their branding.

Zoyi are the OEM for these meters. Everybody else is the rebrander.

See how many you recognize: https://zotektools.com/products/

I thought Zoyi is the OEM and BSIDE, Aneng, Zotek are private labels. It seems done differently in china, where the OEM does small changes to differentiate between what is essentially the same design. The private labels are doing marketing, packaging, branding I think.

I tried a MESTEK and it's a bit higher quality build, it appears Shenzhen Mestek Electronics Co., Ltd. is another OEM.

[pavlik222]

 

[Eraldo]

Does anyone have an image of the rotary switch design on the aneng sz20. Have they implemented the one similar to fluke and other meters like brymen or do they use the ball bearings with the springs.

I really am not a fan of those since they are not reliable in my experience.

Aneng 870 (20000 uV meter) has a nice implementation like the brymen, even though a bit stiff as per some reviews

[Astur_TorQue]

Just wonder...

Why is safety so important in a meter that costs 10 dollar? Why not just take it for what it is? In my opinion a godd and sheap number two meter for use in car/boat or in DC circuits off grid.

You don't need a Fluke 289 for measuring a 12V battery or continuity in a DC circuit.

But i'm agreed that everyone that has electronic as hobby must have at least ONE good meter. But as number two meter, i think Aneng Q10 and AN 8009 is good meters.

Comparisions are hateful...


Zoyi 703S:


Fluke 289:

[Phil1977]

What are both pictures about to tell?

Of course, the Fluke has better protection - definitely no discussion necessary.

But else? Fluke needs more components, it´s larger, it uses more expensive PCB-basematerial?

People, don't be ridiculous about multimeter safety. 50 Years ago everyone worked with analouge meters with just a glas fuse in the current range, and death by exploding multimeter is not the main story people talk about at family parties.

Of course, if you want to work on mains lines then you either should be allowed to do that and then you usually have an expensive meter. If you do it as your hobby, then probably the meter is the smallest risk for your life...

[Astur_TorQue]

What are both pictures about to tell?

Of course, the Fluke has better protection - definitely no discussion necessary.

But else? Fluke needs more components, it´s larger, it uses more expensive PCB-basematerial?

People, don't be ridiculous about multimeter safety. 50 Years ago everyone worked with analouge meters with just a glas fuse in the current range, and death by exploding multimeter is not the main story people talk about at family parties.

Of course, if you want to work on mains lines then you either should be allowed to do that and then you usually have an expensive meter. If you do it as your hobby, then probably the meter is the smallest risk for your life...

Basically the electronics are way better.. more components always means better safety/quality/accurate signal... they are expensive? of course.. most people need these? At all! But it's undeniable at first glance when you see both PCBs where is the difference...

Fluke extremely expensive for that amount of components? Sure, there are motherboards with double or triple those SMD componentes, but the difference is still there

[Phil1977]

More components always means better safety/quality/accurate signal...

Interesting conclusion... So a piston aircraft engine is always much better than a jet engine because of the number of parts???

Don't get me wrong, Fluke has great quality and they don't use this number of components just for fun. But Zoyi & co also performed greatly by providing quite a lot of multimeter for little money. That´s also a very legit and very welcome development target.

[Astur_TorQue]

More components always means better safety/quality/accurate signal...

Interesting conclusion... So a piston aircraft engine is always much better than a jet engine because of the number of parts???

Don't get me wrong, Fluke has great quality and they don't use this number of components just for fun. But Zoyi & co also performed greatly by providing quite a lot of multimeter for little money. That´s also a very legit and very welcome development target.

Well in a motherboard, the more phases you use, the more stabilised/perfect the proper voltage is... I imagine if you use more components, the accuracy should be higher.. it would be idiot using more components than needed just for "pleasure"

[shapirus]

Well in a motherboard, the more phases you use, the more stabilised/perfect the proper voltage is... I imagine if you use more components, the accuracy should be higher.. it would be idiot using more components than needed just for "pleasure"

What's the point? Yes, the Flukes are more advanced, capable, reliable and expensive meters. Nobody argued with that.

[tszaboo]

More components always means better safety/quality/accurate signal...

Interesting conclusion... So a piston aircraft engine is always much better than a jet engine because of the number of parts???

Don't get me wrong, Fluke has great quality and they don't use this number of components just for fun. But Zoyi & co also performed greatly by providing quite a lot of multimeter for little money. That´s also a very legit and very welcome development target.

Well in a motherboard, the more phases you use, the more stabilised/perfect the proper voltage is... I imagine if you use more components, the accuracy should be higher.. it would be idiot using more components than needed just for "pleasure"

It doesn't work that way. I can design you a board with a hundred discrete TTL gates and analog switches, and do the same job as an integrated ADC with worse accuracy.

[Astur_TorQue]

(must resist the temptation... )

Nice, readable display, but the AAA batteries is a deal-breaker for me.

While they don't came with 9V (6LR61), no problem if AA, AAA or 18650

[Lightages]

People, don't be ridiculous about multimeter safety. 50 Years ago everyone worked with analouge meters with just a glas fuse in the current range, and death by exploding multimeter is not the main story people talk about at family parties.

And people rode cars without seat belts, motorcycles without helmets, etc....
Rules and regulations are written in blood and usually have a reason. Meters being sold with lies on them about their safety is a big problem IMHO. People being aware of what is safe, or not, is a good thing. Ignoring rules just because ancient apes didn't have rules is not a good thing.

Of course, if you want to work on mains lines then you either should be allowed to do that and then you usually have an expensive meter. If you do it as your hobby, then probably the meter is the smallest risk for your life...

A problem about having a poorly built meter lying around is that people get lazy and might think "well just this time I will be OK" and then the next time and the next time until they get complacent. Another problem is with people who don't know better and believe the claims made on the ratings and safety on the multimeter and use it without thought that it might be a lie. Then there are some people who ignore any safety and properly made or no it won't save them.

This thread is a sticky for a reason. It may be out of date for current models but the reasons and information still are valid.
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/a-list-of-multimeters-that-do-not-appear-to-meet-their-claimed-safety-specs/

[Phil1977]

And people rode cars without seat belts, motorcycles without helmets, etc....
Rules and regulations are written in blood and usually have a reason. Meters being sold with lies on them about their safety is a big problem IMHO. People being aware of what is safe, or not, is a good thing. Ignoring rules just because ancient apes didn't have rules is not a good thing.

Definitely no discussion necessary - safety evolution is a great thing and without any of it at least half of this forum would probably be dead.

A problem about having a poorly built meter lying around is that people get lazy and might think "well just this time I will be OK"

Sorry for being polemic here, but MAYBE the future of civilization would be even more granted if people do not absolutely arbitrarily plug in everything everywhere - at least on job sites. THINK before putting something on mains, and if you can't do that, then stay away 1m or more!

Of course, in companies with shared accident responsibility it´s different. There I also always recommend good equipment becuase luckily companies I work at can afford it. But if someone can't really afford it, I´d never complain about a "bad" DMM just laying around.

Or another provocative example: Bad luck can make your "wall wart" SMPS explode like a cheap DMM. Do you also equip *each* low power application with at least a CAT II fuse or charge your smartphone with a flashover suit?

 This thread is a sticky for a reason. It may be out of date for current models but the reasons and information still are valid.
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/a-list-of-multimeters-that-do-not-appear-to-meet-their-claimed-safety-specs/

This list is great, but because manufacturers are more or less lying about their products. Sometimes they lie so much that it is more than obvious - like a small €6-meter I have on my bench that is labeled as CAT IV 600V. I´m quite sure it´d be quite an incandescent device at the specified high voltage spike.
But others seem to be more beefy outside and aren't inside. These can really be dangerous e.g. at construction sites and there the list really may save lifes.

[Fungus]

Flukes aren't magical. Procedure and knowledge is at least as important as the meter when it comes to safety.

The "safety" discussion has been done a thousand times on EEVBLOG and nobody ever changed their position AFAIK.

Getting back on topic: ANENG hasn't made an interesting new meter for years... 

[Fungus]

This list is great, but because manufacturers are more or less lying about their products. Sometimes they lie so much that it is more than obvious - like a small €6-meter I have on my bench that is labeled as CAT IV 600V.

The lying isn't ideal, but:
a) Anybody who knows what "CAT IV 600V" is wouldn't believe it, and

b) Anybody who doesn't know it's a lie isn't going to be saved by them taking it off.

My (purely empirical) observation is that Harbor Freight has been giving away millions of DT830s for decades and there's no trail of dead bodies across the country.

[Aldo22]

This list is great, but because manufacturers are more or less lying about their products. Sometimes they lie so much that it is more than obvious - like a small €6-meter I have on my bench that is labeled as CAT IV 600V.

The lying isn't ideal, but:
a) Anybody who knows what "CAT IV 600V" is wouldn't believe it, and

b) Anybody who doesn't know it's a lie isn't going to be saved by them taking it off.

My (purely empirical) observation is that Harbor Freight has been giving away millions of DT830s for decades and there's no trail of dead bodies across the country.

That's exactly it. I'd like to see statistics on how many people have died as a direct result of using an AN870 instead of a Fluke in household applications.

My guess is 0.

And if you think you should do anything above CAT II with a $20 meter, then you're in God's hands anyway.

Yes, they shouldn't lie about the specs, but let's not spread FUD.

[Kleinstein]

At least in Germany one should not do anything that need more than a CAT 2 meter without proper training. However reality is a different thing and there are cases that electrical jobs are done also from people who lack the training.  An unsafe meter is a problem especially for beginners - part of the proper training is to avoid situations where one really relies on the meter quality.  So a professional is less at risk from an unsafe meter.  There are not many accidents from unsafe meters, but even just a few are too many.  There no excuse for giving false CAT ratings - that is just plain stupid.

It is good the European customs at least sometimes cares about the regulation and stops some of the unsafe meters. A bit confusing there are sometimes even different meter versions for the EU and other markets (e.g. from uni-T): the EU version can have the better fuse and still the lower and more realistic CAT rating.

[floobydust]

[...] Yes, they shouldn't lie about the specs, but let's not spread FUD.

Let's also not spread confidence, certainty, conviction, faith in products with fraudulent, fake safety claims.
With china you simply don't know what they are selling.