Author Topic: Any better way to use a HP 6625A than dragging cables from the rear outputs?  (Read 5621 times)

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Offline Berni

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Now that looks rather pretty indeed.

You could probably get a similar effect without lifespan liminations by cutting down a LED based LCD backlight to the right dimensions and sticking that behind it. But the tricky part is that you can only easily trim it on the sides that don't have LEDs. So it would probably mean you have to find a LCD that is the same width and then trim down the height. I might dig trough the junk pile at work since a lot of damaged LCDs get thrown out, but i don't really use my PSU enough to warrant taking it apart again and installing that.
 
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Offline MRiddickW

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Wow, these are all incredibly impressive!

That's good to hear about the fan. I was quite disheartened when I fired up my 6626A for the first time to find that I had actually bought a jet engine, and that's after buying a slightly lower dB fan to replace the bad noisy fan it came with.

It makes sense about the 24/7-in-hot-rack expectation, but I guess I never fully considered it! I actually considered a Noctua when replacing my fan, but got scared off by the way lower CFM.

Anybody rigged up a temperature sensor to make the fan spin up as the heat sinks get hot or anything fun like that? Any kind of noise considerations you need to take into account when futzing around and adding fans and wires to the inside of the PSU, especially in high-precision units such as these?
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Offline Marsupilami

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Last and final mod for this one (The nerd-factor is already too high :) ): An EL strip as backlight https://www.ebay.de/itm/263120517911.

This is amazing.  :-+
 

Offline MRiddickW

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I had same mod idea in mind, but refused, as I need also higher currents and thus need the sense lines.
How about the "sound of silence"?
Did you mode the FAN (i.e. with a quite PAPST)?

I myself build a FAN-Temp-Control board, mounted above the Relay-Option board.
That switches off the FAN as long as the temperature of each power modules is below 60°C (each is taken into account).
Basicallly 4x OmAmp comparators each with a relay, each is sensing one of the in-side the modules temp-sensors (used for over-temp-sensing). The relays are  OR-wired, thus any activated relay switches on the FAN.

As long as the required output current is in the mA range the FAN is off (quite). That's the case in >90% of the time.

For security I checked operation up to an ambient temp of 45° to ensure the tank gots not over-heated in hot summer days.
Additional I logged the temperature inside the case for several month (recording the max temp only to not fill the disk to fast).
Works fine - most of the time the tank is quite!
BR
PeLuLe

Oh yeah... I thought the idea was familliar.   :-DD
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