EEVblog Electronics Community Forum
Products => Test Equipment => Topic started by: taiteki on November 30, 2017, 05:30:03 pm
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I buyed 1 year and a half a bm235
for the first time a the dmm have a dim lcd but i doncared about that because i can read with no problems.
but some weeks ago the DMM stop to work poperly, i suppossed to be a battery problems and buy some new battery, but the issue continue.
(https://s8.postimg.org/qnirk2dkh/1_dim_lcd.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/qnirk2dkh/)
The dmm dont work in voltage LoZ,DC, ohms and diode.
1 Loz, i put a 9V battery with arround 8,3V and got this.
(https://s8.postimg.org/c4bmion0h/5_low_z.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/c4bmion0h/)
2 DC the same with the DC range.
(https://s8.postimg.org/ctuev0sox/2_voltage_1.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/ctuev0sox/)
(https://s8.postimg.org/87yampp69/3_voltage_2.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/87yampp69/)
(https://s8.postimg.org/ntfm6n69d/4_voltage_3.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/ntfm6n69d/)
3 the ohms start with 0L but after short the terminas always show 0000.0ohms
(https://s8.postimg.org/pxzz7qv1d/6_ohms_1.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/pxzz7qv1d/)
(https://s8.postimg.org/ius3s3n0x/7_ohms_2.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/ius3s3n0x/)
(https://s8.postimg.org/s2kc8ujtd/8_ohms_3.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/s2kc8ujtd/)
4 in diode always show 0.000v
(https://s8.postimg.org/ii0plzhmp/9_diode.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/ii0plzhmp/)
some one have the same problem?
thanks and apologies for my english.
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Check the soldering on the inductor. See
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YM--cxT6X3k (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YM--cxT6X3k)
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Thx retiredcaps :clap:.
dont remenber that video!.
L3 disapeared.
(https://s8.postimg.org/3spis1l9d/IMG_20171130_215041.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/3spis1l9d/)
(https://s8.postimg.org/vg286f1dt/IMG_20171130_221649.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/vg286f1dt/)
i put a new ferrite bead and
:-/O
(https://s8.postimg.org/57r3h0epd/IMG_20171130_223101.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/57r3h0epd/)
:-DMM
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L3 disapeared.
I wonder if this L3 will be a long term problem? You are the 3rd or 4th person to have this bad soldering problem.
BTW, for the LCD contrast Dave did a video too.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rOdjN8ROrNI (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rOdjN8ROrNI)
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We are also finding out that on some older Fluke 17x series, the soldering on that inductor/ferrite bead has aslo degraded or shook loose due to abuse? However, this is over several years, possibly one decade.
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/fluke-179-repair/ (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/fluke-179-repair/)
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/fluke-179-not-working/ (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/fluke-179-not-working/)
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/fluke-179-76688/ (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/fluke-179-76688/)
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Thread for dim lcd on BM235.
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/eevblog-brymen-bm235-lcd-issues-or-normal/ (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/eevblog-brymen-bm235-lcd-issues-or-normal/)
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Mine had a notch cut out I assume for this reason.
https://youtu.be/g3uYcHAumhA?t=436
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Thxs for the links.
in the case of this DMM it was in a non climatized zone, 40ºC-45ºC in summer and 8ºC-20ºC winter (Seville-Spain).
Possibly it has been damaged for a long time, since I have only used it to measure current.
in the image of my dmm it seems that the ferrite bean broke apart.
(https://s8.postimg.org/m2jq2l301/comparation_bm235_b.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/m2jq2l301/)