EEVblog Electronics Community Forum
Products => Test Equipment => Topic started by: BoomBrush on December 05, 2016, 03:16:53 pm
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So my last soldering station (https://www.jaycar.com.au/48w-temperature-controlled-soldering-station/p/TS1564) decided to self destruct a few days ago, and since it was 4 years old I wanted the replacement to last a minimum of 5 years, hopefully more than that. I was thinking (researched for a few days) about getting a Hakko FX-888D since it's about $180aud, but I wasn't sure on whether that was the right iron for me especially for the price.
I am a hobbiest who has the intention of taking electrical engineering as a career path. I do a lot of projects using the soldering station and so I would like some genuine quality and for it to work well, reliably and last a long time. My last station felt like it never melted the solder very well, maybe I'm just bad at soldering. Yes the solder had lead in it (63/37 stuff). I had to crank the heat up a lot and hold it down in order for anything to melt, and I hated doing that because it put unnessecery strain on the station. I have a feeling the tips that jaycar were selling were ebay tips which seemed to work great for the first five minutes, but then darkened almost immedietely. I generally left my temperature at about 250 degrees C, but I am forced to slowly rise the temperature to ~300+ in order to melt the solder.
I'm just not sure whether it's the best option for my situation. Before I drop two hundred dollars I wanted to hear some other guys' opinion and any advise they have.
I would be purchasing from this link: http://www.mektronics.com.au/hakko-fx888d-digital-soldering-station.html (http://www.mektronics.com.au/hakko-fx888d-digital-soldering-station.html)
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I have one and quite like it. I also forgot to turn it off one of these days, left the thing 24 hours on. Really stupid of me but turned out that the only thing that happened is that its transformer warmed up the blue enclosure and the iron change its color to a darker grey (except the tip which remained the same).
I'm also a hobbyist and I highly recomment this one considering the price.
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I just received my Hakko FX-888D, and couldn't be happier! It is truly a nice piece of kit. It's solid, it's controls are east, it feels like a quality instrument. I would highly recommend you invest in this iron, it is a terrific unit! This unit will suit your needs for sure as a hobbiest as well as using it during your EE studies and career path. I have owned several other irons in the past, and this one by far is my nicest. The tips are reasonably priced, and the whole package is nice.
You may want to check out Dave's videos on soldering, especially the one's on tools: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5Sb21qbpEQ (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5Sb21qbpEQ)
He covers the FX-888, which is simply the FX-888D's predecessor, being analog. It will also show you the type of tips you should be using (not the conical tip it comes with stock). I see the unit you're purchasing comes with a chisel tip. This is good. Those are they type of tips you typically want to be using. Wouldn't hurt to purchase a backup. Possibly consider an extra wire tip cleaner and an extra sponge.
All the tips that fit the FX-888D are going to be marked T18-XXXXXXXXXXX (not that many X's lol, but T18 for the prefix, if you will)
A comment regarding cranking the heat up and pressing super hard to get results. It sounds like a few things are going on here. Either you have a truly crap iron, which I don't think is the case, but could be, it sounds more like you have an oxidized tip that is not "wetting" as it should. You can youtube up some videos on tinning your tips and how to re-tin your tips after they get oxidized. Some wrap solder around the tip while the iron is cold and then turn it on and let it all melt and come to temp, wipe and feed more solder, wipe, feed more solder until your tip is nice and tinned. Then wipe it off again, and reapply some solder to the tip to protect the tip from oxidation while it's sitting idle in the holder. You shouldn't have to crank the heat unless you're soldering something that is acting like a big heat sink (could be several things, including soldering a heat sink).
I would also recommend doing some research on the the temperature you should be using for your typical 60/40 or 63/37. 63/37 in particular melts at a specific temperature (183C or 364F) and becomes liquid, where the 60/40 stuff has a wider range that it goes from solid to liquid and back again. Typically the melting point (per weller's solder) is 230C or 460F. Basically the 63/37 is liquid or solid. But you also need to take into account the thermal load that components, contacts, pads, etc will have on the overall temperature that you're going to use. A safe number to start out with would be no less than 260C or 500F to start, and work your way up. It seems that a common temperature for 60/40 seems to be 325C - 350C.
Remember you have to compensate for many things taking the heat away from the iron. As well as the melting point of the flux. Speaking of flux, make sure you are indeed using a solder that has a rosin core(s). There are many things that go into the temperature of the iron, and that's not to say there aren't times that you may well indeed need to crank it up a bit, but for normal uses it should be good, if your tip is well tinned and not oxidized and "wet".
Overall I don't think you'll be disappointed at all in your purchase, as long as you know how to properly tin the tip, and keep it "wet" with solder when it's sitting in the holder (and this includes when you turn it off too), you should be good. Watch a few videos and see if it gets you any information. Definitely watch Dave's video on soldering. There are actually three parts to that. I have linked you to the first one, and there are subsequent links on youtube that Dave has added so you can easily watch part two and three.
Hope some of my information you find useful in making your decision! Feel free to ask anything else, I will let you know what I know and know when to raise my hand and say, hey I honestly don't know. :) As well as I'm sure others will chime in as well :)
-Brad
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That will work well. The digital interface annoys some people because it takes longer to adjust compared to the simple analog version. The analog version was re-imagined as the FX600 or the 601, with the entire station embedded within the handle. Its another option for you from the same store. Its half price but no iron holder, or brass wool. You can buy clone holder and wool for far less and it works just as well. Uses all the same FX888 consumables; tips and heater core. It can be converted to the FX601 if you wish the large tip sleeve as an accessory but the 601 tips are large for most electronics work [ its for electrical and stain glass work where it rules].
http://www.mektronics.com.au/hakko-stick-iron-variable-temp-control-50w.html (http://www.mektronics.com.au/hakko-stick-iron-variable-temp-control-50w.html)
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I've got one and it solders very well.
Yes, the digital interface is annoying. I don't adjust the temperature very often though, so... :-//
It's fun to watch the temperature count up when you switch it on.
Here's my rubbish 'unboxing' video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-_0L7YzE1og (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-_0L7YzE1og)
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I'll jump into the praise wagon and say that I also love mine big time.
Coming from a fully manual JBC soldering iron (the ones with the clicky button) that I've been using for the past 10 years it's oneof those bits of kit that I wonder why did I not buy before.
I've had it for a year now and the tip that came with it is still flawless (granted I do take good care of my equipment), so as far as I'm concerned, no difference against my previous benchmark for endurance tips, the JBC endurance series (which are ridiculously durable).
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I got my HAKKO FX-888D in December 2014 for 118,00 EUR including shipping from my well proffed chinese seller "ndtsuppliers".
Bougth several gears from that source in the last 5 years.
I very happy with that station.
I still use also my old Weller WTCP 51, but thats slow in heating up against the hakko and also the solder iron is more heavy and less handy.
So I use the hakko for day to day solder work and the Weller only in case I need more heat or a bigger solder tip.
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Count another vote for the Hakko 888D.
The interface is annoying only if one does not configure the preset mode :horse: after all, who needs more than 3-4 different temperatures ?
Everybody sings the praise of chisel tips, but for through-hole I find myself more at ease with a conical one, maybe because I learned that way...old dog, new tricks, you know... :-//
I got my HAKKO FX-888D in December 2014 for 118,00 EUR including shipping from my well proffed chinese seller "ndtsuppliers".
At that price you could as well have bought it from an European dealer, with a couple of days shipping.
E.g. where I got mine, Batterfly (http://www.batterfly.com/shop/stazioni_saldanti/hakko_fx-888d).
To get free shipping to Sweden, though, I had to top off the order with a DS1054Z!
But for Australia, I would not know what to advise, apart from getting it from a reputable seller: there are many counterfeits on Ebay.
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The 888 is a good quite capable station.
I love having good tools, even if I can't really justify them for the amount tha I use them.
I already had a Weller WTCP from 1980-something, and acquired a Hakko 936 for free in 2002.
I took the Weller to work for the odd time I need to solder something (not really necessary for a Network Administrator :) )
I needed a new finer tip for the 936 and went to a local shop to get one. Didn't find the one I wanted, but they had a really good price (for here) on a 951 station, so I got it.
Man do I love it! Would an 888 do for me? Sure. And my old blue Soldapullt would work fine for re-capping a monitor, but my 808 does it so much better :) What was my point? Oh yeah, I love good tools. Good thing I've never tried a Metcal or JBC :)
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Wow, such a response! Thank you to japasetelagoas, saturation, Fungus, Artikbot, pelule, newbrain, The_Penguin and especially VolvoBrad007 for all the advise (he did write a lot!). I can't respond to every single person, but I tried by best to respond to replies to further help my situation and people who are engaging in it.
Wouldn't hurt to purchase a backup. Possibly consider an extra wire tip cleaner and an extra sponge.
(...)
you have an oxidized tip that is not "wetting" as it should
(...)
63/37 in particular melts at a specific temperature (183C or 364F) and becomes liquid
(...)
make sure you are indeed using a solder that has a rosin core(s)
(...)
Watch a few videos and see if it gets you any information. Definitely watch Dave's video on soldering. There are actually three parts to that. I have linked you to the first one, and there are subsequent links on youtube that Dave has added so you can easily watch part two and three.
I might get an extra wire cleaner, maybe not a sponge though. I think I'll be using the wire more than the sponge, plus I got a packet of kitchen sponges which I've been using on my old iron since I got it. The one sponge cutout lasted 4 years, so I think once the hakko one becomes unusable, I'll just replace it with one of those.
Yeah, that sounds about right. I might have a go at trying to recover the old soldering iron, replace the blown component (it was only a resistor). I can't do that without a soldering iron though!
The temperature my grandfather told me to set it on was 270 degrees C, but if I need to go to the bathroom (step away for a bit) turn it down to like 250 or 230 so it stays preheated. But if I need to be away for a bit longer, turn it off entirely.
The solder I use and I've found works quite well is from ebay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281504685005), which claims to have a rosin core, with a title of "63/37 Rosin Core Flux 1.8%". Whether that's true or not, who knows but it seems to solder quite well (assuming the iron is hot enough to melt it). I want to stay away from lead free stuff.
I well definitely watch some more videos on soldering, I think I am just bad at it so hopefully this new station will help with that.
The digital interface annoys some people because it takes longer to adjust compared to the simple analog version.
(...)
Its another option for you from the same store.
I would have liked the analog version with the knob, I don't care for password security or it can memorize temperatures. It would be great if I could get one with a knob but I think I would have to hunt for a long time to find a genuine one considering they are now discontinued. I do however really like the temperature readout, I just think they should have added at least 1 extra button if not more.
Yes, the digital interface is annoying. I don't adjust the temperature very often though, so... :-//
(...)
Here's my rubbish 'unboxing' video:
That is true, I think I might just set it once then leave it at that. Kinda annoying that if I want to go away for a small amount of time (eg bathroom) I'd have to hold one of the bottons, make the temperature wrap around so that it decreases, THEN finally go. The knobs you can just twist and it's very convenient. User saturation also mentioned this, and I don't think having a digital display is bad, it's just I think they should have added more buttons.
Actually that video was very helpful in that I know what I am getting. I won't be ordering from batterfly like you but I think the packaging would be similar.
But for Australia, I would not know what to advise, apart from getting it from a reputable seller: there are many counterfeits on Ebay.
So this is something I wanted to make sure I do correctly. I want genuine and not fake clones (quite clearly). 99% of all the ebay/amazon ones are gonna be fakes, so I looked on Hakko's website for a list of distributors, presented with the Australian list.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/4491893/Public%20Pictures/hakko1.PNG)
(https://www.hakko.com/world_network.html (https://www.hakko.com/world_network.html))
So I went to hakkoaustralia.com.au, seems to redirect to electrolube.com.au for some reason. I guess those guys handle company distributions for Australia? Anyway, those guys show Mektronics as a listed retailer so I'm going with them.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/4491893/Public%20Pictures/hakko2.PNG)
(http://www.electrolube.com.au/distributors.html (http://www.electrolube.com.au/distributors.html))
Plus they are actually the same price as other places (or cheaper) and have free postage since it's over $150. For me, free postage is a sell.
So I ordered it, grand total came to about $202aud, I threw in a 2mm chisel tip and some more of that brass wire like VolvoBrad007 suggested. The fact postage is free & tracked was an absolute sell. Thanks you guys for the advise, I do appreciate it.
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I've just ordered one of these based on the recommendations of eevblog community, cost me a small fortune being in NZ. After decades of crappy soldering irons and disintegrating tips I look forward to soldering ease. I've read somewhere that these require calibration?
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I've just ordered one of these based on the recommendations of eevblog community, cost me a small fortune being in NZ. After decades of crappy soldering irons and disintegrating tips I look forward to soldering ease. I've read somewhere that these require calibration?
It should be pretty dang close to the set temperature fresh from the factory, close enough unless you're soldering satellites. It is possible to calibrate the 888D if you really want it to be spot on by pressing and holding down the UP arrow. A knockoff FG-100 from Ebay is accurate enough to get you close enough to the temperature. Be careful not to accidentally put in cal mode during normal use though, I've heard more than one person accidentally setting their station in cal mode and changing their iron to read 200C below the actual tip temp! A design flaw if you ask me, I never really liked the digital interface on the 888D and prefer the analog knob on my Weller.
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OK thanks. I just do audio projects.
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The 888 is a good quite capable station.
I love having good tools, even if I can't really justify them for the amount tha I use them.
I already had a Weller WTCP from 1980-something, and acquired a Hakko 936 for free in 2002.
I took the Weller to work for the odd time I need to solder something (not really necessary for a Network Administrator :) )
I needed a new finer tip for the 936 and went to a local shop to get one. Didn't find the one I wanted, but they had a really good price (for here) on a 951 station, so I got it.
Man do I love it! Would an 888 do for me? Sure. And my old blue Soldapullt would work fine for re-capping a monitor, but my 808 does it so much better :) What was my point? Oh yeah, I love good tools. Good thing I've never tried a Metcal or JBC :)
Can't speak for the JBC but I also have a 951 and a Metcal MX-500. I really like the 951. I got the Metcal a few months after the Hakko. If I would have scored the Metcal first, I wouldn't have gotten the Hakko. I do use them both and have a pretty good selection of cartridges for them. I also had a 936 for about 7 years before I got the 951 and sold it to a ham radio club member along with a selection of tips and a spare power supply. She loves it and we both had a good laugh when she told me her husband polished the tips to get the black off of the shafts.