Products > Test Equipment
Choosing a multimeter - decisions.... decisions....
mqsaharan:
I haven't read the whole thread, only last two posts of yours. If you don't have a preference functions wise, my suggestions are:
If you want to go with Brymen, go to the store, hold them in your hand, see them in person. They have 4 distinct sizes apart from the pocket meters. Buy the top model available in the size you like. You can't go wrong there.
If you like Yokogawa, go with TY720. You do need to see its display in person as it is the most criticized thing about TY710/720.
If you like Fluke products and your work doesn't include PWM signals, go with Fluke 17B Max or 17B+ if Max is not available there. It is a basic multimeter. It is average responding and not TRMS in AC functions.
If you want (kind of) an everlasting meter and money is not that big a factor there, go with 87V/87V Max. It'll cover your work from basic bench electronics to industrial AC mains like most Brymens.
kayasaman:
--- Quote from: AG6QR on November 14, 2022, 03:25:36 am ---I'd vote for at least two meters: a crude but safe one for mains and full-featured but perhaps not so rugged one for electronics.
I'm not totally sure what your mains work consists of, but for mains electrical (as opposed to electronic) work, consider the Fluke line of "testers" (as opposed to meters). https://www.fluke.com/en-us/products/electrical-testing/basic-testers They're all designed for use by electricians, appliance repair technicians, etc. Very safe, rugged, and with enough precision to get a typical job done, but nowhere near as precise or full-featured as an 87-V.
As an extreme example, a non-contact voltage detector is a very quick, easy-to-use, and inexpensive tool for figuring out how far mains AC is getting, when you've discovered that it doesn't seem to be getting to where you need it. But it's a hopelessly imprecise tool for electronics work. At around $20, they're cheap enough that, in addition to whatever other meters I own, I'll always have one of those "fire sticks" for electrical maintenance around the home.
--- End quote ---
That could be a good option too!
I mean I do have a Greenlee voltage pen if that's what you are referring to?
Here's the link to it: https://www.greenlee.com/us/en/adjustable-voltage-detector-gt-16
I mean the mains stuff really is just getting voltage readings or measuring current. Like a few have suggested previously, I'd probably want to get a clamp meter addon for that though at least in the AC domain.
You might have a good point to grab an 'electricians' Fluke or Gossen at their most basic but safety rated levels and then a second meter for DC related work.
kayasaman:
Luckily I have setup the system to be able to log everything and display it in my building control software... but obviously that doesn't help trouble shoot if something goes wrong. In this case I am referring to AC mains levels
Thank you ModBUS and SNMP protocols lol
AG6QR:
--- Quote from: kayasaman on November 14, 2022, 03:48:44 am ---I mean I do have a Greenlee voltage pen if that's what you are referring to?
Here's the link to it: https://www.greenlee.com/us/en/adjustable-voltage-detector-gt-16
--- End quote ---
Yes, that's the kind of non-contact voltage detector I was referring to.
In addition, Fluke makes some testers that are basically like a low precision digital volt/ohm meter, capable of AC or DC voltage in the hundreds of volts, as well as resistance. See the T+Pro, for example: https://www.fluke.com/en-us/product/electrical-testing/basic-testers/fluke-t-plus-pro# It has a 3-digit LCD for displaying voltage. If you touch the probes to a voltage source, it will measure voltage, but if you touch them to an unpowered circuit, it will measure continuity or resistance, as appropriate. It's designed to be "idiot proof" and fast, but neither full-featured nor precise.
BeBuLamar:
--- Quote from: AG6QR on November 14, 2022, 03:37:52 am ---
--- Quote from: Fungus on November 13, 2022, 07:53:02 pm ---The golden rule of measuring current is to always use the 10A range - the 10A range will usually have mA resolution and 10A fuses are relatively difficult to blow around the house (even if you short out mains AC your circuit breakers will probably be faster than the fuse).
Only use the mA/uA ranges if you've already tried the 10A range and have seen that it's safe.
( Cue all the people who blow 10A fuses on a daily basis... :popcorn: )
--- End quote ---
Excellent advice, usually. But automotive work can easily blow 10A fuses. Starter motors will pull hundreds of amps, and there are lots of smaller accessories that pull tens of amps.
My golden rule is to start with an AC/DC current clamp, and only put the multimeter in the circuit at the 10A range after the current clamp shows it's safe. Then progress to the lower range if warranted. Exactly the same principle as you describe, just taken a bit farther.
--- End quote ---
My clamp meter has the resolution of 0.1A so if I measure starter current I would use it. I only go thru the trouble of inserting the meter in the circuit where I need higher resolution and in which case the current can't be high.
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