Lots more really great suggestions!!

Though I'm finding that it's adding to my confusion... in terms of which brand and model
This confusion is probably down to me not having any experience with modern up to date meters so there are a lot of small personal preferences and details that people have which I am over looking. Sort of like buying a car, they all drive (hence my need for a DMM) but they handle completely differently and feel different inside; not to mention equipment levels.
Based on the advice from @nightfire I took a look at Hioki and Gossen Metrawatt
The Hioki 4282 mentioned is around $400 so that's not too bad
I have no idea which model of Gossen but I had a look at the METRAHit 2+ which is around $300, and also some even cheaper models down at the $200 and sub range too. I didn't look at specs but just pricing as I was expecting something in the region of $1500+
The Hioki's seem to have a combined uA and A input - is this ok? Just as the video from David I posted above seems to suggest otherwise...
One thing I do like between the Hioki and Gossen is that they have connector protectors which stops you from inputting the probe lead into the wrong socket.
This might actually be a useful feature for me in the long run. I actually do suffer from hyper anxiety among other issues causing me to go totally blank very quickly almost like a computer crash in terms of full on freeze. It's why I found it so hard to explain things in my initial post and actually got worried that I might start to test peoples patience by sounding like a total dork

Here is a current use case of mine where a meter is definitely going to help out a lot:
One of the LED strips that I wired up a few years back was working perfectly fine until a few days ago where I noticed that one of the channels (the cool one) was actually illuminated only dimly. It's a 24V strip that uses PWM as dimming control, I can't remember if it's the voltage or current that's varied to set the levels as they are two types with one being the most common.

Today I reversed the input supply, meaning I took out the wires from the PWM module and instead tested by using a different power supply from the other end of the strip (don't try this at home kids

):

The channel lit up brightly so no problems with the strip at all!
This is how it looks right now when connected to the PWM module:

That's set to 100% brightness
There are other strips wired to the same module output in parallel using their own cables all connected to a Phoenix Contact PTFix connector block:


So not being able to test anything like this properly is frustrating to say the least.
My hunch is that the copper cores of the input feed have oxidized which was the case on the other side of the wall where we had a issue with damp.
It would still be better for me to be able to test the current flowing through to make sure that the output channel of the PWM module hasn't blown slightly causing a reduction in output current spec, or if somehow there is a short between +V and 0V, and also check the voltage to see that there is no volt drop in the circuit.
Just now having checked the Gossen World DMM:
https://www.gmc-instruments.de/en/products/measuring-and-test-technology/multimeters-and-handheld-calibrators/basic-digital-instruments/metrahit-world/it has a 6000 count display, 3V diode tester (which is probably going to be useful for testing the 3.3V LED's I use as power indicators. Price wise it's sort of between $450-500 which is ok but a little light when compared to the count of the Bergman and Hioki meters.
If I was buying on aesthetics alone then I must admit that I do like the Gossens the best
