If cost is a dominant concern, then there are much cheaper alternatives than 8bit scopes.
You can get a 2 channel 12 bit scope for $390, or 4 channel for $440. True, for some that price is too high, and they'll stick with less expensive 8 bit scopes. But that's a pretty small percentage on the grand scheme of things.
I was thinking of more extreme constraints and radically different solutions.
I get your point, but I'm not sure it's good advice without someone knowledgeable to help you. My experience wasn't good with analog CRT scopes, even though it's purely anecdotical, might be useful.
When I was just starting out I bought a Tek 466 "untested" (LOL). Unsurprisingly, it did not work. After a
long time studying the service manual, I traced a couple failures, on the PSU. The big caps were letting through all the ripple after the rectifier, a couple transistors were blown, and one or two blue "teardrop" caps (tantalum?) were shorted. I did a lousy repair job with my lousy soldering iron and skills.
A few hours later, no trace at all on the screen. I can't remember the details, but I think i traced the failure to the high voltage part on the bottom board, next to the PSU. And that's where the repair ended.
No skills and no HV tools, with my not-too-strong conservation instinct barely holding up.
Next was (I think) a Tek 2465B. Sold as working, and it did work as long as the readout was deactivated. If you activated it, some kind of digital signal appeared to ride on top of the trace, and the readout numbers were "pushed" upwards. After opening it, I saw liquid damage, corrosion and grime, and a resistor was open just before a pair of transistors driving the readout position on the screen. I, again, did a terrible job of removing the opened resistor with my cheap-ass soldering iron. The fact that the liquid damage had left some lime-like residue that could not be cleaned up with isopropanol did not help. Thankfully, I didn't break the pads. Then I found I did not have the right value resistor with the right power rating, but tested it anyway, and everything worked well.
Later on, I found on this forum the usual problems with the Dallas NVRAM, and the custom IC that gets way too hot. Replacing the NVRAM would have meant a desoldering gun (nothing under €100, even second hand), another dallas (€20? plus shipping), and a programmer (~€120 minimum). Plus the €120 of the 'scope. I ended selling it for what it did cost me.
Last try was one of the latest HAMEGs CRO, full SMD. It did cost me 10 bucks, but no schematics and it had been canibalized.
I reckon I made a lot of mistakes, but bear in mind I did know next to nothing about electronics. I learned a lot, too, one of the main ones being that if you need a tool, buy a properly working and supported one. All of this would, most likely, have ended differently if I had someone experienced guiding me a bit, but I didn't and still don't.
Take all of this with a grain of salt, of course, but if you don't have experienced hobbyists/engineers near you willing to help, my recommendation is do not buy an analog CRO. They are proper tools and the service manuals are a thing of beauty, but most of the people recommending them are experienced engineers that know their way around HV and these complex devices.