Products > Test Equipment
Dynaload DLF 100-100-1500 (100V / 100A /1500W DC load) teardown & repair
Inverted18650:
BEAUTIFUL! Following.
nctnico:
Time for another update. The parts have arrived so time to put things back together.
First let's fit a transformer onto the PSU board. I still can't believe they sell these transformers after 20 years:
In order to allow for 230V operation I bought a 100VA transformer with 115/230V primary and 115V secondary. I also bought a barrier terminal and made a bracket to mount the barrier terminal on top of the transformer:
Then onto mounting the 10 turn current adjust potmeter. I had to enlarge the existing hole slightly to get as much as the axis sticking out the front.
In order to mount the transformer onto the bottom plate I had to take it out which revealed the heatsinks:
One of the things I wanted to change was the exposed mains in several areas. For this purpose I also ordered a new mains switch. From experience I know soldering on mains switches is tricky because the contacts melt away quickly. I took the original wiring loom out completely and started rewiring. I got some new contacts to crimp onto the wiring of the PSU but I re-used the old connector housing (Molex KK 396)
Rewiring done! No more exposed mains and all mains wires in a braided sleeving neatly tied down away from the low voltage wiring. Another addition is a mains filter and finger guards on the fans. I also washed the ribbon cables because they looked moldy so I didn't want to take the risk.
A leftover carrying strap fitted nicely into the existing holes (after running an M5 tap through them):
100A means thick 16mm^2 / 6AWG wires and lugs.
Time for testing and adjusting! The amount of adjustment required was minimal but this isn't a high precision test instrument. It is not very visible on this picture but I made all the knobs a bit shorter. The axle on the 10 turn pot is quite short and the original knobs barely held on as well. I tried to find a knob for the current adjust pot which fitted best with the existing knobs.
This empty space is for mounting a board to make the fans temperature controlled. The wires are for power and to synchronise the TRIAC with the mains frequency.
The next and final step will be mounting and testing the fan control board.
nidlaX:
VERY nice refurb! :-+
Inverted18650:
Looks great. The edit: “fact that you took the time to put a label on the” tranny mounting bracket to id the taps was a very nice touch as well.
nctnico:
--- Quote from: Inverted18650 on January 06, 2018, 01:15:54 am ---Looks great. The photo-transfer paper on the tranny mounting bracket to id the taps was a very nice touch as well.
--- End quote ---
Uuuhhh... that is a black-on-clear label from a label printer ;)
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