Products > Test Equipment
Fault tracing meter with novel displays - Mechanic Sherlock V2.
Fraser:
The only other question that sits at the back of my mind is “how long will the probes OLED displays last ?” In the past I have worked on equipment where the OLED displays failed to black over time and use and they were a very real operational liability. I hope the technology has improved since those early years of OLED modules.
Fraser
Fraser:
Well it would appear that UK Customs have managed to lose my parcel ! :rant:
I have already ordered another Sherlock 2.0 so hope that this one gets to me through the dysfunctional UK Customs clearance system.
AliExpress will not refund for 72 days so there is plenty of time for the missing parcel to be found but I am not holding my breath …… Bu**er !
Fraser
Fraser:
Both of the Mechanic Sherlock 2.0 meters arrived today :-+
Interestingly, both boxes seals had been opened despite not having been inspected by Customs. Both units have the diode symbol on the front panel, so are the early model, BUT they both have the Resistance (Ohms) capability plus the new instruction manual. It would appear that the boxes were opened to upgrade the functionality …. Better that than to receive old stock with no Ohms capability :-+
I am very happy with these units :-+ :-+
Fraser
Fraser:
I have just completed a teardown of both of my Sherlock 2.0 units to check build quality etc. I recorded the teadown with my camera and share the pictures here.
The teardown revealed some issues.....
1. The method of attaching wires to the two 2mm sockets is less than great and uses cut down solder eyelets and top hat insulators. Good enough for this application as little current is involved. The soldering on one eyelet was very poor and required resoldering. Another eyelet fell off due to broken copper cores in its cable.
2. The LED display was still fitted with its translucent plastic protector. No big deal but I removed it anyway.
3. The LiPO pouch cell resides behind the rear PCB but it floating within the case as no protective foam pad has been used between it and the PCB. Not great practice as the PCB contains sharp cornered components that could puncture the LiPo pouch cell.
Other points of note.....
The Sherlock V2.0 has the protective clear foil on the outer display screen and one of mine had dust under it so I removed the foil. Such foil can sometimes also cause light dispersion (blurring) with bright LED displays but it did not seem to make much difference in this case. The LED display is very bright and could actually be less bright for workshop use. No problems with it though.
The original Sherlock 2.0 design connected the two PCB's using a FFC but both of my units uses a inter-PCB connector pair. I prefer this to the soldered FFC idea. Both of my units contain version 4.0.0 PCB's.
The OEM has used a nice heavy piece of steel bar to add weight to the meter, helping to keep it in place on the workbench. This could be replaced with lead if more weight is needed. The probe cables are very flexible so do not impart too much twisting action on the meter unit.
How to disassemble the Sherlock.......
1. Remove the three self tapping screws from the end cover that contains the two 2mm sockets and gently pull the cover away from the casing.
2. Remove the three self tapping screws from the end cover that contains the probe cables and gently pull the cover away from the casing.
3. Carefully unplug the LiPo cell connector from the PCB
4. Unplug the probes connector from the PCB
5. Remove the two push button caps. These may be removed using a screwdriver pushing from below and gentle rocking off their spindles.
6. Carefully slide the PCB/LiPo assemblies a short distance towards the end with the 2mm sockets whilst pressing down on the two push button shafts to provide clearance. This provides better access to the nuts on the rear of the 2mm sockets.
7. Remove the nuts from the rear of the 2mm sockets and remove the cables that connect to them.
8. Slide the PCB's and LiPo cell towards the probes end of the casing making sure to press down on the button shafts as they clear the holes in the casing. The whole PCB and LiPo assembly is removed from the casing.
9. The two PCB's will separate for inspection or rework.
Reassembly is the reverse of the above process. DO NOT CONNECT THE LiPO cell until all other parts are assembled so as to avoid an accidental short and resultant damage. Ensure the LiPo connector is correctly orientated before attempts to insert it.
Fraser
Fraser:
Teardown continued.....
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