EEVblog Electronics Community Forum
Products => Test Equipment => Topic started by: carl0s on July 17, 2018, 12:39:18 am
-
I have been battling with myself. The DP832 just seems so big, so then I look at the DP711, and it looks great, and tidy, and less weird (odd one-colour LCD) than the DP832,, but it's really tall (twice the height of the DP832 and all of Siglents units). So I tune in on the Siglent single-output unit - it's not double-height like the Rigol 711, so I'm almost sold.
But I can't shake the feeling that one day I'm going to wish I had just one more output.. at least one more output anyway.
Anyway then I decided to check the size of the bigger Siglent out, vs the Rigol. Jesus! I'm sold on the Siglent SPD-3000X-E (-E being the lower resolution version).
Now, being an IT tech person, I really ought to have been able to do this on computer, but... I got the masking tape and tape measure out. Check out the size difference between these two. Also the siglent is 12mm shorter in height.
(http://www.internetsomething.com/random/siglent_spd3000x-vs-rigol-dp832-size.jpg)
-
Sometimes
Smaller cabinet means noisier (faster spinning) fan ;)
/Bingo
-
Don't forget to check how deep they are too, and compare to the depth of your bench/shelf space. Maybe the Siglent is deeper than the Rigol to provide a similar-ish internal volume?
I just had to swap a 250mm shelf with a 300mm shelf to fit my new Agilent 34461A. :D
-
Don't forget to check how deep they are too, and compare to the depth of your bench/shelf space. Maybe the Siglent is deeper than the Rigol to provide a similar-ish internal volume?
I just had to swap a 250mm shelf with a 300mm shelf to fit my new Agilent 34461A. :D
No, look, you can see the depth there! The Siglent is smaller in every way. Although, it doesn't have current limit control on ch3. ch3 is pretty basic if I understand correctly, but that's fine. I only need 1 or 2 really. 3 may add some convenience.
It's being delivered tomorrow anyway :)
-
Sometimes
Smaller cabinet means noisier (faster spinning) fan ;)
/Bingo
Not really in this case, though. Been using my SPD3303X-E for about a year now and the fan barely even turns on until you start drawing a lot of power from it. A lot of the size of the rigol is actually the mounting feet and stuff, whereas the Siglent is just a box. An adjustable third rail and current readout for it is great, but the Siglent is cheaper, smaller, and otherwise pretty comparable.
-
The Rigol is 42cm deep, vs 28cm for the Siglent. It's a huge difference.
And the Siglent is also narrower and less tall. (is there a word for that? shorter??)
-
You’re in the UK. Look at TTi power supplies:
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F113107476949 (https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F113107476949)
Not mine for ref.
100% silent under full load. Will run at full whack or short indefinitely unlike some cheap end chinese crap. Full service manual available. Dual tracking 30-0-30v @2A, parallel 30v @4A, series 60v @2a or both floating. Not crazy deep so fits on the bench. Current limit. Current damping. Also acts as convenient shelf for digital scope :D. Oh and made in UK.
And only £150 (or less if you shop around).
And if you need more outputs plug down £50 in the future for a single channel one. I’ve got two single channel units I paid less than 40 for each. (PL310 and PL154).
National Physics Laboratory use the same units for the cesium beam clock they run.
-
You’re in the UK. Look at TTi power supplies:
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F113107476949 (https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F113107476949)
Not mine for ref.
100% silent under full load. Will run at full whack or short indefinitely unlike some cheap end chinese crap. Full service manual available. Dual tracking 30-0-30v @2A, parallel 30v @4A, series 60v @2a or both floating. Not crazy deep so fits on the bench. Current limit. Current damping. Also acts as convenient shelf for digital scope :D. Oh and made in UK.
And only £150 (or less if you shop around).
And if you need more outputs plug down £50 in the future for a single channel one. I’ve got two single channel units I paid less than 40 for each. (PL310 and PL154).
National Physics Laboratory use the same units for the cesium beam clock they run.
Well it's a bit late now!! :-) but thanks ! :) I was previously looking at new TTi stuff from Farnell, but they were pricey.
Anyway, in case my masking-tape on floor-tiles diagram wasn't very clear, I did some improvements to it in ms paint..
(http://www.internetsomething.com/random/siglent_spd3000x-vs-rigol-dp832-size-mspaint.jpg)
-
DP832 is noisy. I didn’t buy one because of that.
Plus also it has some weird referencing across the three power supplies. Have a look in the manual.
-
DP832 is noisy. I didn’t buy one because of that.
Yeah I did hear of people swapping out fans.
-
DP832 is noisy. I didn’t buy one because of that.
Yeah I did hear of people swapping out fans.
You will be happy with SPD3303X-E noise as DaJMasta has said, they're very quiet unless hammered and then more a whoosh rather than a howl.
Bit more grunt than the TTI unit for when you need it too. :)
Getting some SPD1168X's today so will post more about them later in their thread. Power ON overshoot screenshots and that sort of thing.
-
I’m interested in the SPD1168X. Would make a good radio bench supply as my PL154 could do with some more amps. Please post a link to the thread on the TEA one or PM me ;)
-
I’m interested in the SPD1168X. Would make a good radio bench supply as my PL154 could do with some more amps. Please post a link to the thread on the TEA one or PM me ;)
Unboxing stock now but it'll be a bit before I get onto this so don't wait up and I should have something for you for your breakfast time.
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/new-spd1168x-siglent-psu/ (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/new-spd1168x-siglent-psu/)
-
Anyway then I decided to check the size of the bigger Siglent out, vs the Rigol. Jesus! I'm sold on the Siglent SPD-3000X-E (-E being the lower resolution version).
That's the exact same reason that I got the Siglent too.
Comparing specifications, interface and reviews it gets a bit hard to decide. "Will it fit on my desk" is a nice binary decider though.
-
Anyway then I decided to check the size of the bigger Siglent out, vs the Rigol. Jesus! I'm sold on the Siglent SPD-3000X-E (-E being the lower resolution version).
That's the exact same reason that I got the Siglent too.
Comparing specifications, interface and reviews it gets a bit hard to decide. "Will it fit on my desk" is a nice binary decider though.
:-) yep, it is!
It's arrived today, I had a quick look at it while at the office and it's a beauty! Back in the box in my car now, and will be finding a spot on the desk for it tonight :)
-
That is the one with the loose plugs.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mdOauVzY9OU (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mdOauVzY9OU)
-
That is the one with the loose plugs.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mdOauVzY9OU (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mdOauVzY9OU)
Yes but this has been discussed on the forums and it's not actually a problem.
What I don't understand though, is why the PSU is telling me it's in CC mode, when it's actually supplying a constant voltage as the current draw is under the set value.
I can't do anything to make it change from CC. Except switch the channel off - then it says CV.
I am a total newb, so am I missing something?
(http://www.internetsomething.com/random/siglent_spd_3000_cc_cv_mode.jpg)
-
I tried the same test on CH2 and it behaves as I would expect. Hmmm :(
-
Seems I have a duffer :-/
The display/indication on CH1 will not change from CC to CV. Ch2 is fine. I've just downgraded firmware to 1.01.01.02.03 and that's made no difference.
-
If a PSU goes into CC mode it's normally an indication that you haven't got enough current dialed in or there a problem with the load itself.
For now you should dial in the full A output in the Set box and see how it behaves then.
I've got one here if we need to work through this online somehow.
-
If a PSU goes into CC mode it's normally an indication that you haven't got enough current dialed in or there a problem with the load itself.
For now you should dial in the full A output in the Set box and see how it behaves then.
I've got one here if we need to work through this online somehow.
Just uploading a video for you to check out... 10 mins.. Thanks :)
-
https://youtu.be/O1HJAVE-b4E
and a follow-up:
https://youtu.be/1ivjeXsOMNY
-
God damn auto-focus :D I'm not a video maker ;-)
-
Vids were fine and display issue clearly, thanks.
Give me a bit to get a unit out and check some stuff....
-
The only change I made to the unit before switching on, was to change it from 220v on the back to 230v, because I am in the UK. I suppose there could be some obscure bug where doing that destroys some part of the circuitry. Seems a bit far out though.
-
First, can you try this reset to factory default:
Hold Fine and power ON and release Fine when the boot process has ended.
Does the CC issue remain ?
You said earlier you'd downgraded the FW. Did you return it to the latest version 1.01.01.02.05 ?
Operating voltage setting is close enough and shouldn't impact at all on CC.
-
First, can you try this reset to factory default:
Hold Fine and power ON and release Fine when the boot process has ended.
Does the CC issue remain ?
Yes the problem remains. I can confirm the reset worked, because the stored previous-values are cleared. I tried the procedure twice to be sure.
You said earlier you'd downgraded the FW. Did you return it to the latest version 1.01.01.02.05 ?
Operating voltage setting is close enough and shouldn't impact at all on CC.
Yep I've returned it back to 1.01.01.02.05
-
Could it be they soldered in the (duo color ? ) led the wrong way ?
-
OK, bugger !
If it's getting late over there just check what I come back with in the morning.
I'm gunna check CC functionality in this unit I have and if what you see isn't right I'll send some emails and come back with advice on what to do next.
Could it be they soldered in the (duo color ? ) led the wrong way ?
Great question !
@carl0s
Can you give us all but the last couple of digits of the SN# ?
-
Could it be they soldered in the (duo color ? ) led the wrong way ?
but the CC/CV in the top right of the TFT display also doesn't change.
-
OK, bugger !
If it's getting late over there just check what I come back with in the morning.
I'm gunna check CC functionality in this unit I have and if what you see isn't right I'll send some emails and come back with advice on what to do next.
Could it be they soldered in the (duo color ? ) led the wrong way ?
Great question !
@carl0s
Can you give us all but the last couple of digits of the SN# ?
I don't tend to go to bed too early :-)
I have bought this from a good UK distributor so I have no worries that I'll be looked after properly with warranty, but at the same time it is a curiosity and would be interesting to know what the cause is. Even better would be if it was something simple and they'd let me open it up and fix it with their guidance. I'd get some satisfaction out of that :-)
S/N: SPD3XHBX2R16-- (left last two off like you asked)
Hardware version: v3.0
-
I have another question:
What does the rotary-encoder push/click do? I can't see any function that uses it, yet it's there. It's a push button. They could have used it either for Timer On/Off when you have it highlighted, or to move to the next element when dialling in stuff. Actually the only thing I can see that it does is confirm the IP address settings if you push it while in one of the ip/netmask/gateway fields.
Ooh nevermind I see, it gives you a special emergency firmware upgrade power-on thing :) Oh, and the file store/recall.
-
Grrrr, no your unit is not right ! :-//
I have a factory fresh SPD3XHBX2R17** and CV/CC modes work outta the box.
Can you handle this OK with your supplier ?
Let me know if I need to send emails.
-
Grrrr, no your unit is not right ! :-//
I have a factory fresh SPD3XHBX2R17** and CV/CC modes work outta the box.
Can you handle this OK with your supplier ?
Let me know if I need to send emails.
:-) Yes I've sent them an email. I'm sure they'll be good.
Thanks for all your help though and checking another unit :-+
-
Are these Siglent units not the same as GW-Instek GPD-3303S, but with a fancier display?