Fluke 28 II Battery life

[Janne]

Recently my Fluke started to freeze when using the beeper mode. Reads "batt" on the screen, and will not work until powered off and on again. So I figured the batteries that came with it were not very good and ran out quickly. After putting in new batteries, it now works again. But, the old batteries were not really that flat either. All measure 1.495-1.501V, and can deliver 1.5A+ into a short circuit. I thought it should be able to drain the batteries a bit further than that??

Also, with the 1.5V batteries it's just the beeper mode that makes it shut down. Everything else works(ohms measure without beeper too), even with backlight at full power.
Is there something wrong with the meter, or is the beeper mode just so dependant on fresh batteries?

[Janne]

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/blog/eevblog-64-fluke-28-series-ii-multimeter-review-teardown/30/

According to this thread, it's a problem at least with older units. I'll have to see if it's possible to get warranty repair for my meter.

[fn49]

Mine does that same thing.  I haven't looked at getting it repaired yet cause I got it on Ebay from an unauthorized dealer so I don't think I will have warranty on it even though it was brand new when I got it.  I will do something with it soon though.

[M. András]

you can always ask their local distributor, its costs nothing

[termi]

Was there ever a solution to this?

I recently bought a new Fluke 28 ii, and it has the same problem. It's not a big deal though.

My meter has serial number 22790xxx.

Edit:

The diode check is behaving funny too when the back-light is on level 2. My batteries are definitely fine; each cell reads 1.598V, expiration date 03-2019.

[R@dek]

As is written above - the same issue: “Have had the Fluke 28II for over a 2 years. Had a problem from the start when you tried to use the beeper in the continuity mode, the battery would be displayed on screen. Saying the battery was low.” You need to remove the bottom hood (6 screws battery hood and another six screws for bottom DMM hood). Then you can see the beeper on the opposite side of display. You need only add some resistor (47-56R) in serial to the beeper. For fix you must remove the beeper – there are connected 3pin together and one pin separately. You must use campton tape between the PAD on PCB, and then connect it through resistor. That’s easy and fully working – of course the volume comes down a little, but I doesn’t matter and battery issue disappear.
First this post was placed on Fluke forum - but now it disapeard
Radek

[zaoka]

Does anybody have new (problem FREE) version of Fluke 28 II to take a picture of the PCB so we can see if they changed anything...

If I remember correctly if you measure diode or ohm and press Hz or % button it act weird....

[coldframe]

hi,
there must be previously made battery pack somewhere.
This looks a bit similar to your problem
http://kimboricha.blogspot.kr/2014/01/make-1900ma-fluke-189-high-capacity.html

[JuiceKing]

I had this false low battery warning/meter freeze problem with my 28II and finally got around to sending it in to Fluke for warranty repair in Everett. I'm the original owner and bought it from an authorized dealer. Fluke was very quick about issuing an RMA and I sent it in.

One month later, I still don't have my meter back. They sent me one notice on May 5, estimating shipment back on May 19. When it didn't come, I called and spoke with customer care three times over the subsequent two weeks, each time promised that I'd get an email from the service lab with an ETA. No email. Last time I called they said that it would be sent on June 6.

This is the second time I've had to send this meter in for repair. The first time was because the display plastic spontaneously (!) developed a 1/2" crack in the lower right corner. Never mind a "torture test"...this meter was never dropped even an inch. It must have been under stress from the time of manufacture. That first repair was reasonably quick.

I've got other meters so it's not like I've been shut down without it, but geez, it's been frustrating. The customer care people I spoke with were all very nice and responsive but they've had no visibility to what was going on and all they could do was send emails to the service lab and "escalate." They seemed powerless to get any real communication or expedite things. The last time I called (when they said it would ship on June 6) they said that the lab told them that they had sent me an email...which they had not. All I got was the original estimate email, but no update. Nothing in my "junk/spam" folder. Who knows.

Your mileage may vary, but this was my experience. I don't know if Agilent would have treated me any better, but in this instance Fluke product and service quality were not as good as they would like you to believe.

[Robomeds]

This is very interesting.  I had purchased and then returned a used Fluke 27-II for basically this same reason.  Even with a good battery the meter would give a low battery warning when you did a continuity test with the backlight on.  I tested the current draw during the test and found that it was alarmingly high (no longer remember the numbers) during the time the beep was on.  I had assumed this was a one off defect with this meter even though I couldn't ever find the problem.  I guess it wasn't one off. 

[JuiceKing]

Update: Got my 28ii back from Fluke yesterday. They replaced the main board and now it works fine. Surprisingly, the service tech note said that they weren't able to reproduce the problem, but from the way the note was written, it looked like they only tried to turn on the meter and didn't actually try to test continuity, which is what you need to do to see the problem. It seems that their technician had never seen or heard of this before, or it would have been obvious.

[BH]

I am experiencing the same issue with my Fluke 28-II, serial 23170026.  I have monitored the current consumption while the buzzer is sounding and my instrument draws ~225mA.  Unfortunately I would need a comparison reading from a working instrument to know for certain if this is abnormal.  But it certainly sounds like a heck of a lot of current for a buzzer, and I would be surprised if this was normal behaviour.

I have had a tinker inside the instrument and I have located the buzzer.  I tried to find a datasheet for it so that I could determine the typical current consumption, but I could not find any record of this component on the internet! The component marking is: SWP OS127C4.  I found information on other buzzers made by the same manufacturer, and they had parts numbers such as: SMOS-1020I-26L0.
The component reference is LS4.

I guess this could either be a problem with the buzzer drawing too much current, or it could be a problem with the threshold point for the low battery detector.

My next move is to ask Fluke if they can shed any light on this problem, and perhaps I will give them a link to this forum post so that they can see the issue is being discussed in the community.

I don't suppose anyone else has further info on this issue? Or a service manual for the Fluke 28II?

BJH.

[retiredcaps]

My next move is to ask Fluke if they can shed any light on this problem, and perhaps I will give them a link to this forum post so that they can see the issue is being discussed in the community.

Yes, point Fluke to this thread so they can investigate.

[BH]

Already done I will let you all know what information they provide.

[Vito_R]

Same issue here.  Fluke 28-II serial number starts with 2090 less then 2 years old brand new in the box.  Batteries are brand new and swapped out with another set of fresh batteries to see if it made any difference.  Original batteries also tested full capacity under load and were fine.  Meter stops working and freezes up completely when you try to use continuity with 2nd level back light on.  As soon as you touch the test leads together the meter freezes up and displays BATT with a lightning symbol.  Sent it to fluke yesterday and it's in their hands now.  Will see what they do.  Could be a common defect with a certain version of the main board.  It was also not doing this the first time I purchased and tested it.  It was however displaying just the low battery symbol but did not freeze up or shut down.  Seems like it might be some sort of component degradation over time since this particular meter was not even used and just left in our inventory.  I'm quite surprised this would happen to a Fluke Multimeter.

[Vito_R]

Just got back my meter from Fluke today.  As usual excellent fast and responsive world class service.  They replaced my meter under warranty with a brand new one in the box as my original meter I sent in to them was never used and still in original packaging.  Fully tested this new recently build unit and there is no low battery indication that appears at anytime when using continuity or any other function with 2nd level backlight on and works perfectly.  I'm presuming this revised board used in the latest meter is a permanent fix but will know for sure in a few years I guess if the problem develops again.  This is why you can recommend to anyone why they should spend hundreds of dollars on a high quality made in USA meter then a piece of S*** chinese multimeter.  They support their customers and stand behind their products and your investment of hundreds of dollars will last you a life time instead of throwing away money on unreliable and dangerous chinese garbage.  Kudos to Fluke once again.

[retiredcaps]

I'm quite surprised this would happen to a Fluke Multimeter.

Glad to hear you got your Fluke 28 II problem resolved by Fluke.

Fluke, like any corporation, will make mistakes, sometimes potentially lethal ones as you can read in their product recalls.  How they service and support their customers is why their products are premium priced.

http://en-us.fluke.com/customer-service/safety-notices/

[Vito_R]

I'm quite surprised this would happen to a Fluke Multimeter.

Glad to hear you got your Fluke 28 II problem resolved by Fluke.

Fluke, like any corporation, will make mistakes, sometimes potentially lethal ones as you can read in their product recalls.  How they service and support their customers is why their products are premium priced.

http://en-us.fluke.com/customer-service/safety-notices/

My friend, at least they act on any issues and potential safety defects unlike those chinese manufacturers constantly producing many unsafe and dangerous products and keep quiet about it as their only importance is making a buck.  No one should trust their professional reputation or lives with that junk especially and most importantly test equipment.

[retiredcaps]

My friend, at least they act on any issues and potential safety defects unlike those chinese manufacturers constantly producing many unsafe and dangerous products and keep quiet about it as their only importance is making a buck. 

Are we not saying the same thing? 

[Janne]

I'm still suffering the same problem with my meter, didn't get around to send it back  to Fluke for warranty. I would kinda need to buy another meter to fill in for it while it's being repaired.
Wonder if it would be fixed by just swapping the beeper, or if the problem is somewhere in the PCB?
Of course it might be a good idea to buy another reliable meter anyway, if it would broke for some reason I would be at least mildly screwed.

[retiredcaps]

Wonder if it would be fixed by just swapping the beeper, or if the problem is somewhere in the PCB?

If your meter is under warranty, I suggest NOT making any mods to it.

Fluke could rightfully deny future warranty service pointing to your mod. 

[Vito_R]

I'm still suffering the same problem with my meter, didn't get around to send it back  to Fluke for warranty. I would kinda need to buy another meter to fill in for it while it's being repaired.
Wonder if it would be fixed by just swapping the beeper, or if the problem is somewhere in the PCB?
Of course it might be a good idea to buy another reliable meter anyway, if it would broke for some reason I would be at least mildly screwed.

The problem is NOT the beeper.  It is a defect on the main board.  They need to swap out your main board to fix the issue.  Your fluke has a lifetime warranty so take advantage of it.  I did and I am very satisfied now.  The service turn around time is usually very fast.  I got mine back in a few days.  On average a couple of weeks at most is what I've experienced in the past.  Well worth the great fluke service.  They also usually fully calibrate your meter when you send it in for warranty repair and apply a calibration seal on it.  Another good reason to send it to them.

[Vito_R]

I would kinda need to buy another meter to fill in for it while it's being repaired.
Wonder if it would be fixed by just swapping the beeper, or if the problem is somewhere in the PCB?
Of course it might be a good idea to buy another reliable meter anyway, if it would broke for some reason I would be at least mildly screwed.

Can't be fixed by replacing a single component on the board either.  They have to replace the entire board I was told.  In my case they simply replaced the whole meter since it was brand new.  I do agree you should have a 2nd meter or a backup meter for these situations and also to compare readings or do voltage and current measurements at the same time.  Highly recommended. There are couple of lower cost fluke meters that could fill in for you like the Fluke 107 you can get on ebay cheap or a 115.  Just be aware they don't do very low mA or uA current measurements.  If you want my personal recommendation and i'm sure Dave has also mentioned it, pick yourself up a used Fluke on Ebay really cheap.  There are many good bargains on older flukes models and you can't really go wrong with them.  I've scored some great deals on the old Fluke 27 and Fluke 87.  Fluke 70's series are great too.  Excellent meters that beat the crap out of any of the chinese trash meters everyone's selling.  Whatever you do don't buy one of those dirt cheap chinese junk meters on ebay.  Not worth a penny and the frustration and headaches you'll have with them not to mention they are dangerous.

[Janne]

Well I went ahead and ordered Fluke's 87 for "backup". Since I get to tax-deduct the price +  VAT, I figured the price is not too much.. Especially compared to the headache it would cause me if my only reliable meter would go bottoms up.

I'll test out Fluke's warranty service once I get my new meter 

[Vito_R]

Well I went ahead and ordered Fluke's 87 for "backup". Since I get to tax-deduct the price +  VAT, I figured the price is not too much.. Especially compared to the headache it would cause me if my only reliable meter would go bottoms up.

I'll test out Fluke's warranty service once I get my new meter 

Congratulations on your new Fluke 87 purchase.  I'm sure you will be very satisfied with it.  It's one of Fluke's best meters in my opinion and I own 3 of them.  I actually prefer working with them over the 28.  It's has a better continuity sound, much louder and lower pitch then the 28 and has a slimmer form factor of course but not waterproof.  You can't go wrong with that kind of investment in test equipment.  You can rely on it for a lifetime.  I still have my original Fluke 87 1st gen series from 1992, still in service and working perfectly.  Had it calibrated a year ago and was still completely in specifications. Try to get that out of some crap chinese ebay meter.