Products > Test Equipment
Fluke 8060A Somewhat Functional
<< < (3/8) > >>
Christine1953:
I made some progress. Battery clip was bad. Loose rivet. I replaced it thinking that was the problem, but no dice. I'm still suspecting the switch in the side power jack. I cleaned all the switches and that helped. Ohms (all settings) now working and I'm getting reasonable readings. DC readings are now working on the 200mv and 2v positions. 20/200/1000 not working see the picture. I seem to remember seeing something about that in the troubleshooting section. It sounds like this is a common problem. If anyone has some suggestions please let me know. As I said, I'm unfamiliar with the "design language" used in test equipment, so when I look at the schematic it can be a bit puzzling. I'm guessing by the time I'm done I'll have a much better idea of what it is about. And, it doesn't help that I'm somewhat dyslexic LOL! Whenever there are a lot of switches and parallel wires on a schematic it's somewhat problematic for me. I can work through it, but it takes some time.

Also I have some broken buttons. two of the tan ones. The plastic must be brittle and I'll have to glue them in place or something.

I'm not sure how to test the AC functions. All I can think of is to use a variac with a current limiting resistor, and maybe making a voltage divider with some resistors??? I'm pretty unsure there and I really don't like playing around with line voltage. So if anyone has an idea that would be great.

I'm pretty encouraged at this point. After doing a close inspection, the meter is in excellent condition considering it's age. The caps all look good and there's no leakage or corrosion that I can see. I'm planning on replacing all of them as soon as I get things a little more under control.

I'll see if I can the readings from the test points tomorrow, for some more clues. I just ran out of time today. Thanks again for the help!
C-
tautech:

--- Quote from: Christine1953 on May 09, 2024, 10:01:27 pm ---
--- Quote from: rodcastler on May 09, 2024, 11:57:24 am ---There's this thread that may help as well:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/old-fluke-multimeters/

--- End quote ---
Thanks! It's a long thread with lots of history, but I'll work through it. Maybe I need to ping the designer personally! LOL

--- End quote ---
You might like to link this thread into the one member rodcastler brought your attention to.
Scroll to the top of page and copy the URL and paste it in a new post there, maybe with a wee mention about this thread. Don't use the first post link but the one higher up:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/fluke-8060a-somewhat-functional/

In years to come as others are researching these DMM's it's helpful to have links to other threads.
J-R:
Just to double-check, you're removing the barrel connector when trying it on battery?

A variable transformer would be great for running some AC tests.  For voltage, of course the setup should be self-explanatory, but for current I would use an incandescent light bulb in series with the Fluke as well as another known-good DMM.  You should be able to check all the ranges with that setup.

Some high voltage safety tips are make connections with the power switched off, only use one hand at a time, wear rubber-soled shoes....
blue_lateral:
DONT put deoxit in the switches as someone suggested earlier. That is a mistake. I did that once many years ago. It's apparently too conductive for the high-Z circuitry. It is very hard to get rid of. Several washings with isopropyl did eventually make the meter functional again.

The "old fluke multimeters" thread referenced in rodcastler's post is the one you want.
AVGresponding:

--- Quote from: blue_lateral on May 10, 2024, 02:00:54 am ---DONT put deoxit in the switches as someone suggested earlier. That is a mistake. I did that once many years ago. It's apparently too conductive for the high-Z circuitry. It is very hard to get rid of. Several washings with isopropyl did eventually make the meter functional again.

The "old fluke multimeters" thread referenced in rodcastler's post is the one you want.

--- End quote ---

Good to know!




--- Quote from: Christine1953 on May 09, 2024, 10:45:24 pm ---I made some progress. Battery clip was bad. Loose rivet. I replaced it thinking that was the problem, but no dice. I'm still suspecting the switch in the side power jack. I cleaned all the switches and that helped. Ohms (all settings) now working and I'm getting reasonable readings. DC readings are now working on the 200mv and 2v positions. 20/200/1000 not working see the picture. I seem to remember seeing something about that in the troubleshooting section. It sounds like this is a common problem. If anyone has some suggestions please let me know. As I said, I'm unfamiliar with the "design language" used in test equipment, so when I look at the schematic it can be a bit puzzling. I'm guessing by the time I'm done I'll have a much better idea of what it is about. And, it doesn't help that I'm somewhat dyslexic LOL! Whenever there are a lot of switches and parallel wires on a schematic it's somewhat problematic for me. I can work through it, but it takes some time.

Also I have some broken buttons. two of the tan ones. The plastic must be brittle and I'll have to glue them in place or something.

I'm not sure how to test the AC functions. All I can think of is to use a variac with a current limiting resistor, and maybe making a voltage divider with some resistors??? I'm pretty unsure there and I really don't like playing around with line voltage. So if anyone has an idea that would be great.

I'm pretty encouraged at this point. After doing a close inspection, the meter is in excellent condition considering it's age. The caps all look good and there's no leakage or corrosion that I can see. I'm planning on replacing all of them as soon as I get things a little more under control.

I'll see if I can the readings from the test points tomorrow, for some more clues. I just ran out of time today. Thanks again for the help!
C-


--- End quote ---

PP3 battery clips are an abomination, no surprise this was one of the problems.

The buttons can be 3D printed, if you have a printer, and it's a safe bet there's the models for it on thingiverse (I got the model for the battery door for mine from there), or here: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/replacement-knobs-feet-and-fittings-for-test-equipment/

You might be better using an old-school function generator for AC tests, as one of the reasons the 8060 is so beloved is its very wide TRMS bandwidth, 100kHz iirc. Realistically for a full calibration you need quite expensive gear, but for a sanity check, just comparing it in parallel with another decent meter should be good enough for hobby use.

The pics show it doesn't have the TRMS daughter board, so you'll have the full set of caps to do.
Navigation
Message Index
Next page
Previous page
There was an error while thanking
Thanking...

Go to full version
Powered by SMFPacks Advanced Attachments Uploader Mod