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| Fluke 8060A Somewhat Functional |
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| Christine1953:
--- Quote from: blue_lateral on May 10, 2024, 02:00:54 am ---DON'T put deoxit in the switches as someone suggested earlier. That is a mistake. I did that once many years ago. It's apparently too conductive for the high-Z circuitry. It is very hard to get rid of. Several washings with isopropyl did eventually make the meter functional again. --- End quote --- Oopsie, That's exactly what I did. The switches do slide nicely now however! One more thing to do I guess. How do I clean it? Do I just dunk the whole main board in some solvent? I have lots of them around. CRC switch cleaner, Freon, Naptha, Acetone, and I have a bottle of Everclear. It's probably better for making martini's but it's pure grain ethanol. |
| Christine1953:
--- Quote from: J-R on May 10, 2024, 01:07:31 am ---Just to double-check, you're removing the barrel connector when trying it on battery? A variable transformer would be great for running some AC tests. For voltage, of course the setup should be self-explanatory, but for current I would use an incandescent light bulb in series with the Fluke as well as another known-good DMM. You should be able to check all the ranges with that setup. Some high voltage safety tips are make connections with the power switched off, only use one hand at a time, wear rubber-soled shoes.... --- End quote --- Yes the barrel is not in the socket. Could I just jumper across the switch? I'd never use an external supply anyway. BTW that power jack looks like another one of those 29 cent parts... Great ideas. For the lower voltage tests I was thinking a simple voltage divider, just so I have a little better control on the variac. As for the current, I like the bulb idea, but should I use a current limiting resistor in line with the bulb for the lower current tests? I seem to remember something about a bulb not having much resistance until its glowing. Measuring current is not my long suit by any means. Thanks for the tip! |
| Christine1953:
[/quote]The buttons can be 3D printed, if you have a printer, and it's a safe bet there's the models for it on thingiverse (I got the model for the battery door for mine from there), or here: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/replacement-knobs-feet-and-fittings-for-test-equipment/ You might be better using an old-school function generator for AC tests, as one of the reasons the 8060 is so beloved is its very wide TRMS bandwidth, 100kHz iirc. Realistically for a full calibration you need quite expensive gear, but for a sanity check, just comparing it in parallel with another decent meter should be good enough for hobby use. The pics show it doesn't have the TRMS daughter board, so you'll have the full set of caps to do.[/color][/font][/b] [/quote] I don't know anyone around here with a function generator. (I live out in the middle of nowhere) LOL! If I can get this working, I'd be willing to send it out for calibration. (If anyone still does that on these old devices). 3D printing. I'll have to farm that out. The buttons are OK for right now. Does anyone know of a BOM with part numbers from Digikey or another vendor for the capacitors used in this unit? That would save me a heck of a lot of time if one's available. Thanks! One other maybe/maybe not important question. Do I need a ESD mat for the work I'm doing here? I use a wrist strap, but I don't own a mat. I work on mostly audio gear which doesn't need one. Thanks! |
| Christine1953:
OK all I'm doing today is trying to get this stupid battery connection thing straightend out, and spending some more study time with the user manual. Then at 5PM, it's cocktail hour! Thanks everybody for the help. I'm feeling the love! Have a great weekend if you don't hear from me! Christine- |
| Christine1953:
--- Quote from: J-R on May 09, 2024, 01:25:42 am ---My first thought is check the 1K fusible resistor R2. --- End quote --- I forgot to mention this. R1 and 2 are both good. Thanks! |
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