EEVblog® Electronics Community Forum
Products => Test Equipment => Topic started by: albert001 on December 18, 2018, 09:07:05 am
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I've been looking around at used Fluke Multimeters on eBay.
I found a Fluke that's labeled "Fluke 87 True RMS Mulitimeter". Is this a first generation 87 and not a Series II, III, IV or V?
Some Fluke 87s are labeled 87-3, 87 III, 87 IV, 87V, etc. I'm uncertain about 87-II?
So if the front label shows only "87" means it's a 87-I or first generation?
I'm not really certain differences in the generations such as Series II, III, IV, V, etc. Is there some sort of documentation the help to determine differences?
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So if the front label shows only "87" means it's a 87-I or first generation?
Yes.
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I'm not really certain differences in the generations such as Series II, III, IV, V, etc. Is there some sort of documentation the help to determine differences?
V - white backlight + 6000/20000 counts
III - green backlight + 4000 counts etc
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I'm not really certain differences in the generations such as Series II, III, IV, V, etc. Is there some sort of documentation the help to determine differences?
The manual for the original Fluke 87 (and other models) is only a google search away:
https://assets.fluke.com/manuals/87______umeng0800.pdf
As you can see from the specs, it's only 4000 counts, 0.1% accuracy on DC volts, etc.
ie. It's a good meter but it's definitely not an 87V.
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The manual for the original Fluke 87 (and other models) is only a google search away:
..
ie. It's a good meter but it's definitely not an 87V.
And the 87V is sure no 87IV. I posted before about a friend of mine who bought an 87V after is old IV died and could not be serviced. They just assumed the V was the newer version of the IV.
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And the 87V is sure no 87IV. I posted before about a friend of mine who bought an 87V after is old IV died and could not be serviced. They just assumed the V was the newer version of the IV.
The 87IV did not last long, as they rebranded it as the 189. I don't think the 189 lasted long either?
I suspect that their very rigid military requirement customers weren't happy with the major changes in the 80 series.
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/fluke-87-iv-repair-log/?action=dlattach;attach=304987) (http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/fluke/images/189.jpg)
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I'm not really certain differences in the generations such as Series II, III, IV, V, etc. Is there some sort of documentation the help to determine differences?
V - white backlight + 6000/20000 counts
III - green backlight + 4000 counts etc
Early 87III's had green backlights - they switched to white somewhere mid production. I have one with the white LED backlight, and three with the green type.
The 87III does do high res but it re-boots the meter to put it in that mode, and it's very slow in hi-res mode, 1 update per second if I recall. The 87V is much more usable for this.
I saw somewhere (maybe on this forum) the white LED models were the unofficial "II" version, with improved CAT ratings. TBH I haven't even looked at mine to confirm.
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Note the logging.
I suspect home hobbyist and EE's make up a very small portion of their sales and the electrical/tech side is where the money is. The 289 is about the only one I would consider from them now. Leave the higher tech meters for the EE's to Brymen.
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Leave the higher tech meters for the EE's to Brymen.
:rant: :rant: :rant:
what do You mean? any brymen advantages above flukes?
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⇧⇧⇧
Brymen Price :-+
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The 87IV is the same thing as an Fluke 187, the 89IV is the same as Fluke 189
Not sure there was a mention that the 87 IV / 89 IV had a lag in auto ranges, not the 187 / 189 ??
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Leave the higher tech meters for the EE's to Brymen.
:rant: :rant: :rant:
what do You mean? any brymen advantages above flukes?
There are several threads on these forums about just that topic. You know the old saying about leading horses to water? Then again, if you do decide to drink , I can tell you that you will find no happiness. I started the meter circus about that time.
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I've been using a 75 for quite a while just around the home mostly to test voltages, resistance and continuity.
The piezo buzzer problem with the 75 is in another post where where people have offered solutions. https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/fluke-75-piezo-buzzer-repair/msg2035393/#msg2035393 (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/fluke-75-piezo-buzzer-repair/msg2035393/#msg2035393)
Anyway I picked up a Fluke 79 Series III (true rms) to replace the 75 (once repaired will be used as a spare)
However after reviewing prices and options I came across a Fluke 87 (first generation without leads) for less than I paid for the Fluke 79. ($110.00 with shipping)
I was just wondering about the features of the Fluke 87 first generation compared to earlier models such as the Fluke 79 and later generations Fluke 87 III, IV and V.
I'm uncertain if I need the features of the 87 when compared to the 79, as I only use a DMM around the home and testing circuits in automobiles. Perhaps could use a more advanced DMM but am uncertain.
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I've been using a 75 for quite a while just around the home mostly to test voltages and continuity.
It's in another post where where people have offered fixes. https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/fluke-75-piezo-buzzer-repair/msg2035393/#msg2035393 (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/fluke-75-piezo-buzzer-repair/msg2035393/#msg2035393)
Anyway I picked up a Fluke 79 Series III (true rms) to replace the 75 (once repaired will be used as a spare)
However after reviewing prices and options there was a Fluke 87 (first generation without leads) for less than I paid for the Fluke 79. ($110.00 with shipping)
I was just wondering about the features of the Fluke 87 first generation compared to earlier models such as the Fluke 79 and later generation 87 III, IV and V.
I'm uncertain if I need the features of the 87 when compared to the 79.
The extra functionality won't be an issue if not used.
I'd take the 87. The 79 does not do micro-amps. Reason enough for me, even though I don't measure current directly all that often.
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I don't know I could try and put the 79 for sale or have three Flukes.
Years ago I use to repair some types of electronics, use to have a small lab with a couple of 250 - 350Mzh Oscilloscopes, other meters and test equipment, but currently only repair electronics once in a while when the need arises, such as with automotive electronics, etc. and use to play with transistor logic boards, devices, etc. but haven't for quite sometime. I'm uncertain if the need would arise or not.
I still have an old 10Mhz oscilloscope in storage.
Perhaps I'll take a look at some other Flukes such as the 289. I see there is a new 289 with leads and probes eBay for US $164.99. Is that a good price for a 289? I haven't looked at all it's features and see it requires USB IR using a Fluke IR189USB cable.
Is there Fluke software that works with the 289? What are the advantages if any connecting to a PC?
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The cable and software are only needed if you are going to connect it to a PC and log. $164 is an excellent price for a Fluke 289. There is a great thread on EEvblog if you do a quick search describing the highs and lows (pros and cons) of this meter. It's very good, but not perfect. Check that out first.
Good luck!
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The Fluke 289 on eBay is only the master lead set for $164.99 I would probably need to bid on a used one.
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I was just wondering about the features of the Fluke 87 first generation compared to earlier models such as the Fluke 79 and later generations Fluke 87 III, IV and V.
The LCD had issues on the 87 (Zebra strips), fluke still sells a kit to fix the problem. There was at one stage an official back light upgrade kit for the 87 (white) - mines still the original green back light. Also the rotary switch could be a problem on the 87. It would wear also the contacts needed frequent cleaning. Finally, they pre-date the CAT rating if that is important to you.
It was a good meter thou, but after I repaired mine a few years ago, I put it in a draw somewhere and bought a new 87V.
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I'm not really certain differences in the generations such as Series II, III, IV, V, etc. Is there some sort of documentation the help to determine differences?
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/i-need-to-know-the-history-of-fluke-87-(-1998-2010-)/ (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/i-need-to-know-the-history-of-fluke-87-(-1998-2010-)/)
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The LCD had issues on the 87 (Zebra strips), fluke still sells a kit to fix the problem.
Or DIY fix.
http://mrmodemhead.com/blog/fluke-8x-faded-lcd/ (http://mrmodemhead.com/blog/fluke-8x-faded-lcd/)
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The LCD had issues on the 87 (Zebra strips), fluke still sells a kit to fix the problem.
Or DIY fix.
http://mrmodemhead.com/blog/fluke-8x-faded-lcd/ (http://mrmodemhead.com/blog/fluke-8x-faded-lcd/)
Given the kit is very cheap and readily available, it's an upgraded Zebra Strip (one time fix), and you have already gone to the effort to disassemble the meter, the DIY temporary fix in my opinion does not make sense especially if you plan on keeping the meter....
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Perhaps I can find a 87V with a bad LCD and then repair it? Otherwise the 87V is selling for approx. the same as some 289's that sold for $225. where a best offer was accepted.
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I've been using a 75 for quite a while just around the home mostly to test voltages, resistance and continuity.
I'm uncertain if I need the features of the 87 when compared to the 79, as I only use a DMM around the home and testing circuits in automobiles. Perhaps could use a more advanced DMM but am uncertain.
For the work you describe I'd get a Fluke 101.
Really safe/robust, no need to mess about with dodgy old zebra strips and the unknown history of a 20 year old meter, $45 delivered to your door.
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You can get some very good used 83 series 3 and lower, some 87 series 3 and lower too, past the series 3 when powered, they are in AC you have to push a darn button switch to put them in DC, i totally hate that, bad move from fluke
We have few of theses at my job, we mostly work in DC, i pushed them to other techs, and use the Fluke 189 wayyyyy better.
The 87v are way overpriced to my taste. And im not personally impressed by all the 289 fuss, tried one 1 month and returned it, i dont need over complicated meters loll
But it will always depend on your needs, precision, data logging features ?? and all the other acessories you may need to buy ?
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I've still got my 87-1 and use it alongside the 87V, not fussed which one I use as they are both in spec on all the ranges I need.
A working 87-1 in spec still races rings around many current models out there, and it has that -FAST- Fluke continuity buzzer, Min, Max, Peak modes, and awesome (almost 20khz) AC bandwidth.
87-111 is somewhere between 87-1 and 87V
the 189 leaves all three in the dust (if you can get one at any price..without AA battery leakage disaster)
289 is a great all rounder, but don't expect to win any user friendly speed contests with it because it has menus to sort though, even for simple tracing stuff.
Still, it's a keeper and I don't think Fluke will top it any time soon !
All of them are a pimped up version of a real deal 8060A ;D
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@ electro dont forget the super capacitor issue in 189 and 289
Have ordered 5 battery clips kit from fluke usa, yeah 5x kits lots of $$, and got 5x supercaps at 1.60$ each, changed the 3 in my 189's, they were oxydized, one has begun to drain the battery. Changed 1 battery clips kit.
If your patient you can snatch very good meters on the web.
Took me a while to get my 189's and the extended battery packs bp-189, they dont cost a fortune to calibrate :) and i love the fact you dont have to always open the case for the fuses and battery replacement.
The 8x series at my job had battery had clips changed, some dial switch problems (resolved with an good cleaning), damaged thread screws (opened too often for fuses change and battery change)
Even had an Mastech 20,000 count ms8340 first generation who had the 2 hrc fuses in the battery compartment, made an error to re-sell it, the newest ones have only 1 hrc fuse.
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The Fluke 289 on eBay is only the master lead set for $164.99 I would probably need to bid on a used one.
I saw your original post and was thinking, that was a great deal for a brand new 289. :-DD
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I've been using a 75 for quite a while just around the home mostly to test voltages, resistance and continuity.
I'm uncertain if I need the features of the 87 when compared to the 79, as I only use a DMM around the home and testing circuits in automobiles. Perhaps could use a more advanced DMM but am uncertain.
For the work you describe I'd get a Fluke 101.
Really safe/robust, no need to mess about with dodgy old zebra strips and the unknown history of a 20 year old meter, $45 delivered to your door.
Yes that's probably true a Fluke 101 or similar should work most of the time for basic testing voltages, continuity and resistance. I use to be more into electronic repair using various types of electronics test equipment such as oscilloscopes, bench meters, etc. I still have an old 10Mhz oscilloscope in storage and a few test probes and leads.
I'm not really certain if I need something with more features for around the home and working on automobiles. I have some older automobiles with more sophisticated electronics. E.g. I'm trying to repair a VIC (vehicle information center) module that has problems as it ages of the circuit boards developing micro cracks I'm told due to the manufacture used lead free solder it's two circuit boards tends to develop micro cracks over time. Solution is to re-solder the boards and replace any bad caps.
I have an option to return the Fluke 79 that's suppose to arrive this Friday. I can just refuse the shipment and it will be returned to sender.
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For the work you describe I'd get a Fluke 101.
I would also be looking at a 101 in preference a 20 year old 89 if the 101 meets your needs.
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I think I'll look around for an 87 or 289 if can find a used one at a good price. There is one that's suppose to be new on eBay for $380.00 or best offer.
The 79 even though the eBay seller has a 14 day return policy, won't accept a return unless the meter is doa or somethings not working.
Stated the reason is he has to pay for a warehouse and people to package his items. Also I paid $20.00 for shipping which isn't refundable.
So if unable to return the 79 and it wouldn't make any sense to purchase a 101 if having a 79 III to use.
Hasn't arrive yet. Is described as "in excellent working condition"
https://www.ebay.com/itm/123465753442 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/123465753442)
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@ electro dont forget the super capacitor issue in 187 189 287 and 289
Have ordered 5 battery clips kit from fluke usa, yeah 5x kits lots of $$, and got 5x supercaps at 1.60$ each, changed the 3 in my 189's, they were oxydized, one has begun to drain the battery. Changed 1 battery clips kit.
If your patient you can snatch very good meters on the web.
Took me a while to get my 189's and the extended battery packs bp-189, they dont cost a fortune to calibrate :) and i love the fact you dont have to always open the case for the fuses and battery replacement.
The 8x series at my job had battery had clips changed, some dial switch problems (resolved with an good cleaning), damaged thread screws (opened too often for fuses change and battery change)
Even had an Mastech 20,000 count ms8340 first generation who had the 2 hrc fuses in the battery compartment, made an error to re-sell it, the newest ones have only 1 hrc fuse.
I hear you mate, I didn't want to scare off the OP about that, or continue the ongoing saga already at other posts here.
My 189 and 289 still have those infernal bearded supercRapacitors inside,
not leaking but most likely open? or shorted? by now, whichever state no longer affecting the main battery draw AFAICT.
I've been meaning to get them out, but too many conflicting stories about what to replace them with
and possibility of killing the meter in doing so,via ESD pops, firmware/software nukes etc etc :scared: = too much thinking, setting up a temp micro rig to see and solder,
basically no thanks$$$ for now :--
I just keep an eye on the souperclapacitors for further leakage, and re-do the clock/s on battery changes.
If someone (Fluke Support...where are you? I hear crickets chirping... ::)) documented the CORRECT way to do it with a long term parts replacement, I'd have it done yesterday.
i.e. in this case I adhere to "don't fix it if it ain't totally broke...yet"
Anyways, both meters work great and agree on the displays, so I let sleeping dogs and supercrapacitors lie for now
Good luck with your parts swap ordeal.
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This is topical for me. My only two meters just happen to be an 87V and a 289. I like them both, but if I was buying a single meter, I would 100% go with the 87V. The 289 is feature rich, but I rarely have use for the logging (and would probably use my scope anyways) and the drawbacks outweigh those features for me. It is massive, heavy, sucks down batteries, and is fragile compared to the 87 (look up the IR diode issue). If you think you will use the added features or just want the fancier of the two, the go with the 289. If you are looking for a rock solid meter you can probably run over with a car, that is easy to use and not overly complex, go with the 87V.
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I found a 87 V for $150.00
For the 79 III I tried to get the seller to issue a refund and he messaged that couldn't issue a refund based on "Change my Mind" I then asked him about a partial refund and would only offer a $40.00 refund.
He also said he has a different address for returns, so if he sticks to that I would need to pay for return shipping instead of refusing delivery. If you refuse USPS deliveries and the package hasn't been open USPS will send a package back to the return address at no cost.
He had it listed with a 14 day return policy without any conditions such as only if DOA, not as described, so I'm going to let eBay decide. eBay's fairly good at handling returns and getting sellers to issue refunds.
If not able to get a full refund minis the $20.00 for shipping I'll probably keep the 79 III or put it up for auction.
Here's a link to the 87 V I got for $150.00, (best offer accepted) appears to be in good condition.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/332966922166 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/332966922166)
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Can anyone tell me if an 87IV has that supercap?
They don't do logging...
I can tear mine open and look, I suppose.
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Can anyone tell me if an 87IV has that supercap?
The 87IV and 187 don't have the supercap.
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I found a 87 V for $150.00
For the 79 III I tried to get the seller to issue a refund and he messaged that couldn't issue a refund based on "Change my Mind" I then asked him about a partial refund and would only offer a $40.00 refund.
He also said he has a different address for returns, so if he sticks to that I would need to pay for return shipping instead of refusing delivery. If you refuse USPS deliveries and the package hasn't been open USPS will send a package back to the return address at no cost.
He had it listed with a 14 day return policy without any conditions such as only if DOA, not as described, so I'm going to let eBay decide. eBay's fairly good at handling returns and getting sellers to issue refunds.
You can refuse delivery, it's not actually your problem if the seller uses a different return address to his shipping address.I think he's probably trying to make you accept the delivery to save cost.
However, in terms of what is right or wrong, this is a really grey area, if I was the seller and had honored my part of the transaction I think I would expect you to honor your part of the transaction. It does not feel right that the seller lost sales opportunity, and incurs a cost just because you changed your mind AFTER they shipped.
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I'm betting once OP has the 79 and 87V in the tool pouch, and used/alternated both on a few tasks :-DMM :-DMM
...neither model will hit an auction site any time soon ;D
It's a Fluke thing, been there... ::)
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This is topical for me. My only two meters just happen to be an 87V and a 289. I like them both, but if I was buying a single meter, I would 100% go with the 87V. The 289 is feature rich, but I rarely have use for the logging (and would probably use my scope anyways) and the drawbacks outweigh those features for me. It is massive, heavy, sucks down batteries, and is fragile compared to the 87 (look up the IR diode issue). If you think you will use the added features or just want the fancier of the two, the go with the 289. If you are looking for a rock solid meter you can probably run over with a car, that is easy to use and not overly complex, go with the 87V.
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/show-your-multimeter!/?action=dlattach;attach=394899;image)
As owner of 87V, 189 and 287, reading your preference above, once you used 189, you will never look back. :P
Think of the instantaneous boot speed of 87V, features wise close to your 289, and yet with big & sharp segmented LCD display compared to the shady dot matrix of 289, and not that "bricky". ::)
Personally I see the Fluke 287/289 series as not a DMM, they're more like a low speed but with high resolution handheld oscilloscope.
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I agree, but any yay! owner :-DMM of a 189 needs to sort out the supercrapacitor issue asap
and keep a sharp watch on the four AA batteries.
If (+when...) they leak, the slime can/will corrode the terminals right along to the main board
to really get the resto party started :horse:
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I agree, but any yay! owner :-DMM of a 189 needs to sort out the supercrapacitor issue asap
and keep a sharp watch on the four AA batteries.
If (+when...) they leak, the slime can/will corrode the terminals right along to the main board
to really get the resto party started :horse:
Yeah, thats the nasty part, both mine already refreshed with much better and long life ultra cap.
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I found and settled on a Fluke 87 V for $150.00 (best offer accepted) that appears to be in decent shape and within my price range.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fluke-87v-True-RMS-Digital-Multimeter-with-test-probes-clean-87-V/332966922166?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fluke-87v-True-RMS-Digital-Multimeter-with-test-probes-clean-87-V/332966922166?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649)
Didn't come with a rubber protector, so found a new fluke rubber protector H80-E for $25.00 on eBay and also an aftermarket hard type case for $8.00
I suppose if I could have spent another 50.00 - 100.00+ dollar and find a Fluke with more features, etc. however the 87 V has many good reviews and I think should meet my needs.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=whvSl_0p8e4 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=whvSl_0p8e4)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bucceMfqBjY (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bucceMfqBjY)
I'm not certain what to do with the 79 III i.e. to keep it as a spare or to try and sell on eBay if not able to get a refund.
The seller isn't really responding well to his 14 day return policy that he has listed on his auction. So far has offered me a $40.00 then $60.00 partial refund. The 79 III cost me a total of ~$110.00 with shipping. I'm going to let eBay deal with the return of which I believe they will ask him to refund the full amount minus the $20.00 paid for shipping.
If unable to get a full refund will either keep the 79 III as a spare DMM or put it up for auction on eBay to see if able to recoup some of my cost.
I've been member as buyer and seller on eBay since the 1990s and still have 100 percent feedback as I've never stiff anyone and have always bent backwards to satisfy buyers. I honor any 14+ days return policy no matter the reason why a person wants to return an item.
As a seller, If I don't want a buyer returning an item I then either auction an item as-is (no returns) or include a condition that an item can be returned only if DOA or not as described.
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If the 79x works perfectly, you may consider to keep it for a while... and or know you'll get better money for it if it does hit Ebay
or flog it here at EEVblog :clap:
Those input sockets on both meters may/will need a careful clean,
meter front pointing facing down, moist Q-tip/cotton bud with a contact cleaner lube like Servisol
or even WD40 etc if you can't afford to mortgage the house and car like most electronics hobbyist/DIYbattlers, to buy Bonzai sized tins of De-oxit
and the lead plugs may need CAREFUL adjustment of the (+) shaped prongs if they are original Fluke leads.
CAREFUL means they'll bend back easily and break easily if you force something in the gaps to split them out,
just a little working goes a long way so that they look like this when viewed (+)
i.e. four even, not too wide gaps in a cross shape, with a perfect easy fit when plugged into the meter
Hope it made sense... ???
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I'll probably need to clean up both meters some. The internals of the 79 are really clean but the yellow rubber is dirty. From what I read online Fluke rubber protectors can be cleaned with a hand cleaner.
The 87 V hasn't arrived. I ordered a FLUKE H80-E rubber protector as it didn't come with one, plus an afermarket hard case to store it in.
As suggested I'll take a look at the input sockets of both meters. You're saying to clean them with some contact cleaner with lubricants? All I have on had is the CRC contact cleaner, which should have some lubrication.
The 79 so far is working perfectly. I'm thinking of just keeping it for general all around use, putting less wear on the 87 V. I'm uncertain of the leads that came it, they have push clips with soldered on banana jacks. The neg lead needs to be re-soldered.
(https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/48421996_1331599193648295_4700153033235890176_n.jpg?_nc_cat=101&_nc_ht=scontent-sea1-1.xx&oh=202176fec8d10ef560aa80841c61da65&oe=5CA4CFCB)
I have some other test leads. A pair of Fluke 1000V Cat III 600V Cat III, the banana jacks are concealed and 90 degrees. I also have an pair of Agilent 1000V in storage only used a few time the jacks are also concealed and straight. An older set of leads that are braided, with alligator clips I'm not certain what decade these are from I don't think you can find them new any more. Haven't seen them around. There more flexible than the more modern rubber leads.
And another set included with the Fluke 87 V.
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/S2sAAOSwnZJcG50F/s-l1600.jpg)
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/EFYAAOSw7R9cG5z8/s-l1600.jpg)
Also found a Blue Point EETA502A AC/DC Clamp Adapter
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/2Z4AAOSw8hdcB~WI/s-l1600.jpg)
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/ej0AAOSwN3NcB~T8/s-l1600.jpg)
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I think I'm going to just cancel (close) the return.
Since I first wrote to the seller about a return before initiating a return. It's unclear whether the return is a full refund or $60.00.
When I started a return I was already communicating about a refund or partial refund and he wrote back saying he would refund $60.00.
So the refund amount is unclear. My phone doesn't work at my location to telephone eBay and there's no ebay contact or ask eBay to step in link from the return details.
I never did ask eBay to step in so I suspect the refund amount would be what the seller stated in ebay messaging.
I wrote to the seller about it but haven't heard back and I'm tired of messing with the whole thing.
I've never had this problem in the past when contacting the seller befor initating a return.
So in the future if needing to return an e-bay item will first initiate the refund before communicating with the seller.
Imo it's a good quality dmm without alot of features, more for general all around use. There's many things you can do with a 79 III.
I can use it as a backup or to test other multi-meters. For general use it will take some wear off the 87-V.
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Found a calibration manual for the Fluke 79 III but I don't think there's any service manual available online for the series 79 Series III?
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Leave the higher tech meters for the EE's to Brymen.
:rant: :rant: :rant:
what do You mean? any brymen advantages above flukes?
Read the specifications and see if you can figure it out. What so many here fail to realize is that "the best" depends on what you do with it. Each has a price and function benefit or it would not be on the market. The post you respond to directly addressed this point of different tasks for different meters.
For casual hobby use, almost any meter is fine. In fact, low cost is good if you are not used to electronic work. If you wreck it then there are fewer tears.
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Hi,
I own an 189 for a long time and it work all the time very good.
Last year bought an Brymen BM-869s and from few week ago an Agilent U1253b.
Still like to use the 189 but currently the most I use is the BM869 and the U1253b.
The brymen is fast as one more digit and very important to me, as I became holder, the display digits are bigger.
Also records the last switch mode, i.e. if the last I was checking for continuity, when switch on next time, he will in continuity mode.
The Agilent is good for dark spaces were the oled makes the difference.
As I said previously I still like the 189 as he works very well with components under RF.
Rodrigo
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Partially because the return is ambiguous and other reasons I decided to cancel the return and keep the Fluke 79 III.
I think it's good enough for most automotive and around the house repair and diagnostic work.
I noticed some of the specifications of the Fluke 77 IV exceed the 79 III. The Fluke 77 IV has min/max and range buttons is 6000 count vs 79 III 4000 count.
I haven't been able to find a user or service manual for the Fluke 79 III. There is a service manual for the Fluke 79 series II but no series III can be found.
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Found a calibration manual for the Fluke 79 III but I don't think there's any service manual available online for the series 79 Series III?
The 77III and 79III is the same service manual.
I have a copy if you'd email me at [email protected]
The file size is a bit too large to upload here.
I will also upload to
http://www.ko4bb.com/getsimple/index.php?id=manuals (http://www.ko4bb.com/getsimple/index.php?id=manuals)
but there is some latency before it will appear there.
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Ok, sent an e-mail for the Fluke 79 Series III service manual.
The 77 and 79 series III service manual are probably nearly the same, however some specifications of the 77 are different from the 79.
e.g. 77 Series III display is
Display Digital: 3,200 counts, updates 2.5/sec
Analog: 31 segments, updates 25/sec
Where the 79 Series II Is
Digital: 4000 counts, updates 4/sec
Analog: 63 segments, updates 40/sec
Frequency: 9,999 counts
Capacitance: 9,999 counts
Response Time 9,999 counts