EEVblog Electronics Community Forum
Products => Test Equipment => Topic started by: kgavionics on April 13, 2020, 01:05:32 am
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Hi guys
I'm looking for a relatively good True RMS multi-meter to use for my small projects at home.I'm not looking for a high end one,as i have one fluke at my work.I'm looking for one good bang for the buck!
thank you in advance
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Did you have a look at: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/multimeter-spreadsheet/ (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/multimeter-spreadsheet/)
Edit: Also https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/a-list-of-recommended-multimeters/ (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/a-list-of-recommended-multimeters/)
Edit2: UniT UT139C is quite popular
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uni-t ut61e ;D
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What Fluke are you using at work? What features do you need at home? Budget? You might be disappointed in the feel compared to the Fluke.
Have you considered a secondhand Fluke on ebay? You could pick up a Fluke 117 for probably about $100 in unmolested condition if you are willing to put in an offer. You can also get a Fluke 87 for around that same price, will be a bit older but it's common to find them in perfect cal. If you really hunt you can even get a Fluke 87V for a little more.
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Thank you guys for your suggestions!
I have a fluke 87 at work.I forget to mention that i have at home, an old Fluke 8060A True Rms multi-meter (its an manual range MM).I want a new multi-meter just to work on some electronics projects and repairing.
This meter is working great, but i want some features like the fluke 87, without paying a lot of money, because it's just for hobby use!
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About 2 years ago i spent a lot of time looking at the options of budget multi=meters that weren't junk.
I ended up watching and reading tons of reviews of different meters.
I ultimately chose the Fluke 101 because it seemed to consistently provide the most accurate results, even in strange use cases, and could withstand some very powerful arcing and keep working just fine. Has lots of safety certifications and is true RMS (I believe).
I'd entirely trust measuring up to 600V with my Fluke 101. It's also been taken all over the place with me and ends up getting wrapped up and tossed in a bag a lot. Definitely reliable.
It is still less than $50 new and i wouldn't pick another meter instead of it unless I was spending $100 or more.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ScILWjPJzSE (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ScILWjPJzSE) - This isnt even the craziest one.
(I recently got a used HP 3478a bench meter, but i'm keeping my fluke; i just need one on the bench which can show more digits.)
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Fluke 101 is not true Rms and can't measure current as far as i know and that 's why is no go for me!
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Fluke 101 is not true Rms and can't measure current as far as i know and that 's why is no go for me!
I thought it was true RMS. I stand corrected.
It can measure current with a shunt resistor. This is demoed in the video above. It always worked well enough for my needs.
I guess the 101 is not good enough for your needs after all?
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Fluke 101 is missing True RMS, stand and current. So keep that in mind if important to you. I have a Fluke 112 an older model with a similar form factor which I like more, it's not perfect either but it has True RMS, min/max, manual range and current.
I say go Fluke 87 or 87V you have plenty of time to hunt around for one if you already have a working multimeter.
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Hi guys
I'm looking for a relatively good True RMS multi-meter to use for my small projects at home.I'm not looking for a high end one,as i have one fluke at my work.I'm looking for one good bang for the buck!
thank you in advance
You'll have to be more specific than that. Are you going to poke it into mains-AC or not? What's "cheap" for you?
For non-mains-AC work I recommend Aneng 860B+:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33003108881.html (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33003108881.html)
Edit: Or Aneng 870 - it looks like they're on special offer, that's a bargain for $30
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33052395019.html (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33052395019.html)
(you can find other colors if you dig around)
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Some years ago, I was in the same situation..., however, I have to admit, that I :-DMM and collect DMMs...
I started with a Fluke 113, 117, 179, 87V, 289 and Agilent U1272A, Keysight U1233A, U1273A and Brymen 829, 867.
The only Fluke with real True RMS AC and (!!!) DC is the 287/289 series. All other only have True RMS as far as AC is concerned. The relative function starts with the 87V, no cheaper Fluke has it, as well as no dual display.
Any DMM has its own advantages and disadvantages, but if I am forced to choose only one, which is affordable, I would take the Brymen 829 or 867 (no temperature => 869 has it).
I don't like the rotary switch and that the backlight doesn't stay on. But you have a dual display showing e.g. AC and DC offset, you have the best fuses in it (the same as in the expensive DMMs), you have the relative function and it is a real True RMS for AC and (!) DC...you even can buy an USB interface to use it with your pc.
https://www.welectron.com/Brymen-BU-86X-USB-Interface (https://www.welectron.com/Brymen-BU-86X-USB-Interface)
...and in combination with "TestController" it is a brilliant and affordable (!) measuring tool!
The downside: in contrast to the 829, the 867 has no temperature measurement (=> 869 has it, but it is more expensive), but you can choose the one you like...just have a look:
https://brymen.eu/product-category/multimetry/?orderby=price-desc (https://brymen.eu/product-category/multimetry/?orderby=price-desc)
The one who buys cheap, often buys twice!
...just my experience... ;)
Edit:
I have forgotten to tell the extraordinary and unique function of Brymen (compared to Fluke and Keysight): They keep the setting referring to the last measurement.
For example you measured mA DC the last time, than this is kept, no necessity to press the select button such as with your known Fluke 87V which always starts wich mA AC e.g. and you have to press the yellow button to go to mA DC, which is often forgotten, if you are in a hurry... ;-) This is regarding to any function of the rotary switch, which is really helpful!!!
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Thank you guys for all your input.After watching the video below, i went with this 35 Canadian dollars MM ( ANENG AN8008)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xdGQEVdxmQQ (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xdGQEVdxmQQ)
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After receiving the meter it turns out that the display is junk, it works, but is full of color patches which make it unreadable in certain angles.I returned the meter today!Dave is right to not recommend cheap MM's!
I've seen some reviews on brymen's multi-meters and i'm quite impressed, especially the dual display BM869, but i can't find it neither on amazon nor ebay! I'm located in Canada, can someone give me a heads up where can i order one?
Thanks in advance
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https://www.eevblog.com/forum/buysellwanted/lfs-where-to-buy-brymen-867s-869s-with-shipping-to-usa/ (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/buysellwanted/lfs-where-to-buy-brymen-867s-869s-with-shipping-to-usa/)
Try the usual suspects like amazon and ebay, to the best of my knowledge it's not counterfeited but check that as well.
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I've dealt with https://www.welectron.com/ (https://www.welectron.com/) before and can recommend them. Their shipping is global and pretty reasonable.
You could also look around for some used or new old stock DMMs. UEi is an option (although somewhat rare and not that great anyway!). Amprobe and Greenlee have rebranded some Brymen DMMs over the years. Amprobe proper has some decent DMMs that can be found for pretty cheap. I've been able to pick up some of all of those for well under $50 in new or like new condition and the quality you get for the money is pretty good.
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After receiving the meter it turns out that the display is junk, it works, but is full of color patches which make it unreadable in certain angles.I returned the meter today!Dave is right to not recommend cheap MM's!
I've seen some reviews on brymen's multi-meters and i'm quite impressed, especially the dual display BM869, but i can't find it neither on amazon nor ebay! I'm located in Canada, can someone give me a heads up where can i order one?
Thanks in advance
I havn't been real impressed with ANENG's products. I bought the Brymen through TME. You may want to consider them.
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Re: Good cheap multi-meter?
Fluke 114 has TRMS and Min Max and keeps up and agrees well enough with the 87V and 8060A afaict
the bonus is it has the Low-Z feature the other two Flukes lack
and because of no current inputs, so no expensive fuses or suicidal operator to fry
it's a great little troubleshoot prodder :-/O with believable CAT ratings :o
If you don't need current measurements or some other features it lacks, it's cheap/er and has that Fluke professional vibe :-DMM
and leaves many other Fluke and Aneng cheapies in the dust
Otherwise consider a Fluke 117 which has more bells and whistles and can take a bump or two as well,
or go the Brymen big daddy meter if you're pushed into that spend ballpark
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Canadian Tire's selection of multimeters is decent. When on sale they represent good value.
I have the Maxiumum #052-1898-4. It's been good around my bench,
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I've seen some reviews on brymen's multi-meters and i'm quite impressed, especially the dual display BM869, but i can't find it neither on amazon nor ebay! I'm located in Canada, can someone give me a heads up where can i order one?
Look to see if you can find "Greenlee" meters. They rebadge Brymens over there.
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After receiving the meter it turns out that the display is junk, it works, but is full of color patches which make it unreadable in certain angles.I returned the meter today!Dave is right to not recommend cheap MM's!
That's really weird. Every review of the AN8008 I've seen has praised its LCD, and based on my own unit I completely agree. (It's a clearer, more contrasty LCD than what my Fluke 87V uses.) I wonder what happened with yours. :(
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After receiving the meter it turns out that the display is junk, it works, but is full of color patches which make it unreadable in certain angles.I returned the meter today!Dave is right to not recommend cheap MM's!
That's really weird. Every review of the AN8008 I've seen has praised its LCD, and based on my own unit I completely agree. (It's a clearer, more contrasty LCD than what my Fluke 87V uses.) I wonder what happened with yours. :(
I wondered if they had found a way to make the clear lenses less expensive and it causes some distortion. Maybe it wasn't a problem with the actual LCD.
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After receiving the meter it turns out that the display is junk, it works, but is full of color patches which make it unreadable in certain angles.I returned the meter today!Dave is right to not recommend cheap MM's!
That's really weird. Every review of the AN8008 I've seen has praised its LCD, and based on my own unit I completely agree. (It's a clearer, more contrasty LCD than what my Fluke 87V uses.) I wonder what happened with yours. :(
Yep. I can only imagine that you got the 1 in a million bad ones.
LCDs are really cheap technology. Even those freebie DT-830D meters have really good LCDs (why aren't Flukes that black?)
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I've seen a lot a 8008 reviews on youtube and haven't noticed any problems with the LCD, I must be unlucky to get this crappy one.
Anyways, i ordered the Brymen BM986S from welecton.com after seeing a lot of Joe Smith reviews about that particular meter!
They haven't shipped it yet, but i guess with the pandemic it gonna take a while before i'm gonna receive it !
Thank you all for your help
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Rather than opening a new thread, I decided to reply here.
Not looking for a cheap DMM but not going to spend a kidney on it either. My thoughts were to get a fluke 117 but then found out I can get a brymen 869s for the same price. Any advice? I’m a mechanic and have a cheap innova multimeter. Looking for something better.
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You cannot go wrong with any Brymen. For a car mechanic and general use I would say go for a Brymen BM235, BM257, or bigger models if you can spare the cash. You also might want a clamp meter to look at battery currents. This opens up a whole new can of worms.
I suggest that you start a new thread for you. Starting a new question in someone's thread is confusing and can dilute the answer the original poster is looking for.
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Rather than opening a new thread, I decided to reply here.
Not looking for a cheap DMM but not going to spend a kidney on it either. My thoughts were to get a fluke 117 but then found out I can get a brymen 869s for the same price. Any advice? I’m a mechanic and have a cheap innova multimeter. Looking for something better.
Welcome to the forum.
Get Daves 235 from his shop.
A good sound trustworthy DMM.
https://www.eevblog.com/product/bm235-multimeter/ (https://www.eevblog.com/product/bm235-multimeter/)
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The first question I have to ask is what sort of Mechanic? If an automotive mechanic I'd suggest looking at Flukes automotive series of meters. Yes a bit pricey compared to their low end models but they are worth it if you work regularly on internal combustion engines. Interestingly Snap-On has some meters that may be worth considering for that field as they are not so extremely over priced like some of their tools.
IF some other sort of mechanic then we will need more information. Given that I almost always steer people to Fluke so get on line and pick a meter that looks good to you. As for the Fluke 117 ask yourself this, can it do everything you need to do with a meter! Further when looking at meter cost, think about that cost in cents per day over the expected lifetime of the meter.
Too put it bluntly too many people look at the cost on the price tag and don't think about how long the meter will last them.
Rather than opening a new thread, I decided to reply here.
Not looking for a cheap DMM but not going to spend a kidney on it either. My thoughts were to get a fluke 117 but then found out I can get a brymen 869s for the same price. Any advice? I’m a mechanic and have a cheap innova multimeter. Looking for something better.
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The first question I have to ask is what sort of Mechanic? If an automotive mechanic I'd suggest looking at Flukes automotive series of meters. Yes a bit pricey compared to their low end models but they are worth it if you work regularly on internal combustion engines. Interestingly Snap-On has some meters that may be worth considering for that field as they are not so extremely over priced like some of their tools.
IF some other sort of mechanic then we will need more information. Given that I almost always steer people to Fluke so get on line and pick a meter that looks good to you. As for the Fluke 117 ask yourself this, can it do everything you need to do with a meter! Further when looking at meter cost, think about that cost in cents per day over the expected lifetime of the meter.
Too put it bluntly too many people look at the cost on the price tag and don't think about how long the meter will last them.
Rather than opening a new thread, I decided to reply here.
Not looking for a cheap DMM but not going to spend a kidney on it either. My thoughts were to get a fluke 117 but then found out I can get a brymen 869s for the same price. Any advice? I’m a mechanic and have a cheap innova multimeter. Looking for something better.
You're right, should've been more specific. Automotive mechanic, but also doing some repairs and diagnosis for hobby at home, so don't want it to be auto mechanic specific, for this purpose I have the Innova 3340 which I am using in the workshop at the moment, although it lacks mV function. I'd like another one I can use at home too, as I do some garage work as well.
Regarding your advice for the Fluke 117, as I said before, it wasn't about the cost. My budget is basically Fluke's 117 price, which is AUD 330 here, while Brymen 869s apparently is comparable to Fluke 87 and I can get it from Europe for roughly the same price. Neither of these two has a lifetime warranty. I think it's 3 years for Fluke and 2 for Brymen. So should I go for something with more functions or it is irrelevant?
You cannot go wrong with any Brymen. For a car mechanic and general use I would say go for a Brymen BM235, BM257, or bigger models if you can spare the cash. You also might want a clamp meter to look at battery currents. This opens up a whole new can of worms.
Getting the BM235 or 257 imported in Australia will cost me $AUD 220, not far from the imported 869 price.Haven't thought about clamp meters.
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After receiving the meter it turns out that the display is junk, it works, but is full of color patches which make it unreadable in certain angles.
Can you please post a picture? If it's an issue with contrast, it can probably be adjusted.
I myself got aneg 8002 and 8008 and my only two complains are the safety rating and cumbersome calibration process. I use them for low-voltage work. Very happy about them and I wish they released a properly rated version.
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For good at a good discount, suggest the hioki. Dave did a review.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=D8Rom9Owsyo (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=D8Rom9Owsyo)
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/blog/eevblog-973-hioki-multimeter-review-clamp-meter-teardown/ (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/blog/eevblog-973-hioki-multimeter-review-clamp-meter-teardown/)
https://www.testequipmentonline.com.au/DT4256-General-Electrical-Use-DMM (https://www.testequipmentonline.com.au/DT4256-General-Electrical-Use-DMM)
Under your budget of aud330, i’d have no hesitation getting hioki. First rate quality made in Japan. Unless you don’t like blue!
Or Appa 79 for half price:
https://www.testequipmentonline.com.au/appa-79 (https://www.testequipmentonline.com.au/appa-79)
Just got an Appa A1 clamp meter that will do 300A DC for $93+postage. Over $250, post is free.
https://www.testequipmentonline.com.au/appa-a1 (https://www.testequipmentonline.com.au/appa-a1)
(Just arrived today - mini review/teardown to come.)
Read this thread on battery testing:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/lead-acid-battery-analyzers-working-principle/ (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/lead-acid-battery-analyzers-working-principle/)
I had been looking far and wide for a cheap DMM for my brother and a second meter for me. Ended up with hioki dt4222. No amps, but the appa clampmeter fixes that for high currents where dmms don’t go.
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/hioki-dt4222-compact-trms-multimeter-teardown/ (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/hioki-dt4222-compact-trms-multimeter-teardown/)
Not as robust as the DT 4256 but less than half the price and almost identical performance (no current ranges).
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The trickiest bit to figure for long-term ownership is stability and calibration/adjustment cost. I havent managed to find any specifications for this for the usual chinese dmm chips. Chip on board designs may suffer more from drift and random failures. There are threads here of complete losses of cheap fluke meters i presume is a chip on board connection failure.
Typical bandgap voltage references have long term stability around 25ppm per 1000 hours. My 30 yr old fluke 87 unadjusted measures same as my new Hioki. I guess integrated voltage references on well made dmm chips would be in the same ballpark of long-term stability.
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I have the Brymen TBM807 I bought used which I am pleased with. Nice, sturdy build. Good safety features. Excellent customer service.
Also received a cheap Richman 113D today in the post (actually got it refunded from Aliexpress as it took three months to arrive....)
We shall see how that turns out.
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Rather than opening a new thread, I decided to reply here.
Not looking for a cheap DMM but not going to spend a kidney on it either. My thoughts were to get a fluke 117 but then found out I can get a brymen 869s for the same price. Any advice? I’m a mechanic and have a cheap innova multimeter. Looking for something better.
Most of the people I know working in automotive are using the MODIS. I looked at a few low cost automotive meters that would do some of the basic timing calculations. I picked up an old Fluke 97 scopemeter that had the original training tape. Fluke allowed me to post it free of charge.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_89qoFMivg (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_89qoFMivg)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uY6ZcINF7L0 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uY6ZcINF7L0)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0KZfjxGCi84 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0KZfjxGCi84)
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Getting the BM235 or 257 imported in Australia will cost me $AUD 220, not far from the imported 869 price.Haven't thought about clamp meters.
Where are you buying the BM869s from? (As in, is it the updated "s" model, not multiple of them)
Even sub $300 AUD is pretty amazing for one of them. I had to pay much more for that a few years back, even for a second hand/ex demo type unit.
At that price, there's pretty much no competition as most of the main brands like Agilent and Fluke come with a hefty premium. (In Aus that is)
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Welectron website mate. it's euro 184 which converted will be aud 298 plus 10% GST once it arrives in Australia and shipping.
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I've also bought 2 AN8008, and they seem to work ok.
Some people complain about the lack of current ranges, but instead it has a mV range with 1uV resoluton, which work with external shunts. With a simple 1 Ohm resistor it thus gives thus uA resolution, and you can range it all the way up to the maximum power dissipation of your shunt. If you use this often, I recommend to make some kind of adapter for your shunts.
An annoying thing of the AN8008 is that it beeps too much, and it turns itself "off" all the time.
I've also read some posts about these failing after a year or two. Probably the rotary switch wears out easily, but i'm not sure of that.
Fluke seems overrated. They were too expensive for me in the first place, and after they seem to monopolize yellow jackets for DMM's I'll boycot them for the rest of my life.
https://hackaday.com/2014/03/19/multimeters-without-a-country-flukes-broad-trademark-bans-yellow-multimeter-imports/
The Brymen meters seem to be the same quality as the Fluke's, but for half the price (or less).
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Getting the BM235 or 257 imported in Australia will cost me $AUD 220, not far from the imported 869 price.Haven't thought about clamp meters.
I sell the BM235 for AU$170, and use the coupon code bm235forum for an extra $20 off.
https://www.eevblog.com/product/bm235-multimeter/ (https://www.eevblog.com/product/bm235-multimeter/)
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My thoughts were to get a fluke 117 but then found out I can get a brymen 869s for the same price. Any advice? I’m a mechanic and have a cheap innova multimeter. Looking for something better.
The 869s is physically huge compared to say a BM235, a disadvantage for a lot of uses IMO. You don't need anything beyond a rugged 5000 count meter for automotive use. Visual continuity on the BM235 might be handy, and bonus EF tester for mains work.
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Anseng 8002 or Chinese fluke 101. They are both pretty cheap under 50$ and they have received very good feedback from lots of people.
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I swear there used to be a thread here somewhere called “don’t buy a cheap fluke”. But i can find no trace of it any more. Censored????
There were reports of some of the cheap china only models dying and being unfixable. In their own market they might be under warranty, but as a direct import, may not be.
(Though my ex-uk “assembled in china” fluke 1507 has a global warranty.)
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@zabov Have you bought your meter yet. I bought my 869s from tme for roughly $350 AUD, and BM235 for maybe $150 shortly after it was out. You cannot go wrong with either. TBH BM235 is an impressive little meter. If you just want one, I'd go for the BM869s cuz like you said you have hobby stuff as well and it's more powerful than the 87V for 1/3 of the (Australian) price.
The first question I have to ask is what sort of Mechanic? If an automotive mechanic I'd suggest looking at Flukes automotive series of meters. Yes a bit pricey compared to their low end models but they are worth it if you work regularly on internal combustion engines. Interestingly Snap-On has some meters that may be worth considering for that field as they are not so extremely over priced like some of their tools.
IF some other sort of mechanic then we will need more information. Given that I almost always steer people to Fluke so get on line and pick a meter that looks good to you. As for the Fluke 117 ask yourself this, can it do everything you need to do with a meter! Further when looking at meter cost, think about that cost in cents per day over the expected lifetime of the meter.
Too put it bluntly too many people look at the cost on the price tag and don't think about how long the meter will last them.
Rather than opening a new thread, I decided to reply here.
Not looking for a cheap DMM but not going to spend a kidney on it either. My thoughts were to get a fluke 117 but then found out I can get a brymen 869s for the same price. Any advice? I’m a mechanic and have a cheap innova multimeter. Looking for something better.
You're right, should've been more specific. Automotive mechanic, but also doing some repairs and diagnosis for hobby at home, so don't want it to be auto mechanic specific, for this purpose I have the Innova 3340 which I am using in the workshop at the moment, although it lacks mV function. I'd like another one I can use at home too, as I do some garage work as well.
Regarding your advice for the Fluke 117, as I said before, it wasn't about the cost. My budget is basically Fluke's 117 price, which is AUD 330 here, while Brymen 869s apparently is comparable to Fluke 87 and I can get it from Europe for roughly the same price. Neither of these two has a lifetime warranty. I think it's 3 years for Fluke and 2 for Brymen. So should I go for something with more functions or it is irrelevant?
You cannot go wrong with any Brymen. For a car mechanic and general use I would say go for a Brymen BM235, BM257, or bigger models if you can spare the cash. You also might want a clamp meter to look at battery currents. This opens up a whole new can of worms.
Getting the BM235 or 257 imported in Australia will cost me $AUD 220, not far from the imported 869 price.Haven't thought about clamp meters.
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I swear there used to be a thread here somewhere called “don’t buy a cheap fluke”. But i can find no trace of it any more. Censored????
We don't censor here.
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I swear there used to be a thread here somewhere called “don’t buy a cheap fluke”. But i can find no trace of it any more. Censored????
It would never happen. There's nothing wrong with them except bang/buck.
There were reports of some of the cheap china only models dying and being unfixable.
There's probably some reports of expensive meters doing that, too. I wouldn't say it's very likely though.
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If the Brymen BM869S is within budget then get that.
The only possible reason to not get it would be the size. It's a big meter.
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If the Brymen BM869S is within budget then get that.
The only possible reason to not get it would be the size. It's a big meter.
Doesn't look that bigger compared to fluke 117. Just a little bit. But obviously, never seen one in person and videos don't really show it unless you have one at home and you can actually compare it, but I don't have neither of them so it's like comparing to nothing.
@zabov Have you bought your meter yet. I bought my 869s from tme for roughly $350 AUD, and BM235 for maybe $150 shortly after it was out. You cannot go wrong with either. TBH BM235 is an impressive little meter. If you just want one, I'd go for the BM869s cuz like you said you have hobby stuff as well and it's more powerful than the 87V for 1/3 of the (Australian) price.
Nah mate, not yet. A little in financial crisis with rona. Just holding on.
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Doesn't look that bigger compared to fluke 117. Just a little bit. But obviously, never seen one in person and videos don't really show it unless you have one at home and you can actually compare it, but I don't have neither of them so it's like comparing to nothing.
The dimensions of both those meters are easy to find online. :popcorn:
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Doesn't look that bigger compared to fluke 117. Just a little bit. But obviously, never seen one in person and videos don't really show it unless you have one at home and you can actually compare it, but I don't have neither of them so it's like comparing to nothing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K-4L2JarVxA (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K-4L2JarVxA)
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If the Brymen BM869S is within budget then get that.
The only possible reason to not get it would be the size. It's a big meter.
Doesn't look that bigger compared to fluke 117. Just a little bit. But obviously, never seen one in person and videos don't really show it unless you have one at home and you can actually compare it, but I don't have neither of them so it's like comparing to nothing.
If you would like a guess for the sizes, keep in mind that Fluke 117 is 167 x 84 x 46 mm (6.57 x 3.31 x 1.82 in) and Brymen 250 and 230 series is 161 x 80 x 50 mm (6.34 x 3.15 x 1.97 in). Now take a look at the following video from Dave where he is reviewing BM257, BM869s and BM857A:
https://youtu.be/tXu0lsOjvDs?t=792
Qasim.
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I prefer the BM257s over the BM235.
Brymen has some cheap automotive meter
https://brymen.eu/shop/bm319s/
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If you ever get tired of your Innova, the BM315S and BM319S have dedicated automotive functions.
Both the BM235 and the BM257 are quite interesting compact meters, but I couldn't yet justify getting them (too many multimeters).
I usually put the following options on the table for low cost multimeters for low power electronics:
Ultra cheap: the Richmeters RM113D. Quite fast, reasonably featured and with good ranges: 6000 counts, 100MΩ, 100.000μF, 3V diode test, fast continuity, temperature, NCV, flashlight,etc.
Reasonably cheap: the Richmeters AM219/Aneng 870. Reasonably featured meters with plenty of resolution: 20000 counts, 200MΩ, 10.000μF, 3V diode test, fast continuity, temperature, NCV, etc.
The top of the cheapies: UT61E. The most featured of them, with a reasonable balance between features and implementation. 22000 counts, 200MΩ, 200.000μF, 3V diode test, fast continuity, excellent bargraph
If you are looking for a balance between safety, features and low cost, the UT139C is a great alternative. I would put the Fluke 101 on this as well, but I experienced quality control issues with two units bought from different sellers and with different date codes, thus I would be cautious. Also, it is too basic when compared to the other options. If you are looking for safety, though, it is unbeatable.
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Amazon Commercial (rebadged/customized CEM meter apparently) 90DM600 and/or 90DM610 are excellent meters for the money (about $50 US currently)... 90DM600 used to sell under $30-$40 couple months ago but now its more expensive than its big brother 90DM610 at $49...go figure...
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonCommercial-Count-Digital-Multimeter-CATIV/dp/B07W1BL3RH/ (https://www.amazon.com/AmazonCommercial-Count-Digital-Multimeter-CATIV/dp/B07W1BL3RH/)
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonCommercial-Count-Compact-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B07W3BXNMP/ (https://www.amazon.com/AmazonCommercial-Count-Compact-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B07W3BXNMP/)
(availability may be problem outside US though...otherwise its a bargain if want safety certified meter....)
I really like the rugged (and waterproof case), perfect for use when working in garage/outside... Probes are also nice, since they are soft (but not silicone) so they don't get sticky/dirty like most silicone probes get, which happens very easy when working with engines, etc...
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I prefer the BM257s over the BM235.
I beat myself for weeks. I cannot decide between BM235 vs. BM257s
Why do you prefer 257s over BM235? It's only 10 euro difference in Germany.
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I beat myself for weeks. I cannot decide between BM235 vs. BM257s
Why do you prefer 257s over BM235? It's only 10 euro difference in Germany.
It can be connected to a computer for not that much extra.
https://brymen.eu/shop/brua-20x-usb-kit-for-bm20xbm25x/ (https://brymen.eu/shop/brua-20x-usb-kit-for-bm20xbm25x/)
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Never needed to connect to the PC. The BRUA-20X USB Interface cost 25 euro, so 35 euro difference for a feature that I do not plan to use soon.
Anyway, does the software work on Linux?
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Never needed to connect to the PC. The BRUA-20X USB Interface cost 25 euro, so 35 euro difference for a feature the I do not plan to use soon.
Anyway, does the software work on Linux?
The software include with the interface: NO
My software for all kind of meters and other devices: YES
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/program-that-can-log-from-many-multimeters/ (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/program-that-can-log-from-many-multimeters/)
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I prefer the BM257s over the BM235.
Brymen has some cheap automotive meter
https://brymen.eu/shop/bm319s/ (https://brymen.eu/shop/bm319s/)
I beat myself for weeks. I cannot decide between BM235 vs. BM257s
Why do you prefer 257s over BM235? It's only 10 euro difference in Germany.
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/what-do-you-think-of-your-eevblog-brymen-bm235-multimeter/msg1040349/#msg1040349 (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/what-do-you-think-of-your-eevblog-brymen-bm235-multimeter/msg1040349/#msg1040349)
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Never needed to connect to the PC. The BRUA-20X USB Interface cost 25 euro, so 35 euro difference for a feature the I do not plan to use soon.
Anyway, does the software work on Linux?
The software include with the interface: NO
My software for all kind of meters and other devices: YES
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/program-that-can-log-from-many-multimeters/ (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/program-that-can-log-from-many-multimeters/)
Also: https://sigrok.org/wiki/Brymen_BM257s (https://sigrok.org/wiki/Brymen_BM257s)
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https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/what-do-you-think-of-your-eevblog-brymen-bm235-multimeter/msg1040349/#msg1040349 (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/what-do-you-think-of-your-eevblog-brymen-bm235-multimeter/msg1040349/#msg1040349)
I know. I have seen that comment some time ago. 1V diode test in BM257s is a bummer.
Because of that, I keep staring back at 235. I would find BeepLit Continuity Tester useful too.
Cheers!
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https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/what-do-you-think-of-your-eevblog-brymen-bm235-multimeter/msg1040349/#msg1040349 (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/what-do-you-think-of-your-eevblog-brymen-bm235-multimeter/msg1040349/#msg1040349)
I know. I have seen your comment some time ago. 1V diode test in BM257s is a bummer.
Because of that, I keep staring back at 235. I would find BeepLit Continuity Tester useful too.
Cheers!
(Not my comment).
Well, I think most people around here will conclude that one must simply own several meters. ;D And sometimes you do need to measure two or more things at the same time.
In my case I wanted the 257's bar graph more than the 235's diode test voltage, and I disliked the 235's blue backlight.
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I prefer the BM257s over the BM235.
Brymen has some cheap automotive meter
https://brymen.eu/shop/bm319s/
I beat myself for weeks. I cannot decide between BM235 vs. BM257s
Why do you prefer 257s over BM235? It's only 10 euro difference in Germany.
235 has two level EF testing, AVG record mode, Beeplit continuity, and VFD.
257 has a bargraph and serial.
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I beat myself for weeks. I cannot decide between BM235 vs. BM257s
235 has two level EF testing, AVG record mode, Beeplit continuity, and VFD.
257 has a bargraph and serial.
235 also has 10 min backlight, caps <10mF
257 has CREST
Thanks, Dave!
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Apart from 3 Keysight multimeters, I also have two Aneng 8008s, an Aneng AN870, and an Aneng Q10 on the way to me. The Anengs are good, cheap, multimeters IMHO.
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Finally, ordered EEV case and BM235 from Welectron.
Thanks for the clues.
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Hello.. looking to buy my first multimeter and i am between amazon 90dm600 (or rather similar 90dm610) and aneng 870 or 8008.which one would you recommend for a beginner. I might need to measure mains. so I am looking something safe for maximum 40-50euro.any other multimeter to recommend? thank you.
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As far as I know, Amazon is no longer selling meters.
I might need to measure mains. so I am looking something safe
I think that would leave out the Aneng's, though for electronic/low voltage stuff the AN870 gets pretty good comments on the forum.
The Uni-T UT161D has decent protection and decent (but not top-notch) specs. You should be able to find it on places like Aliexpress for less than 50 EUR. It's sibling, the UT61D+, is a bit cheaper but I'm not sure if it always has the protection. I think Uni-T may play the game they did with the UT61E where in some markets the protection was provided and in others mostly left out.
For somewhat more money there's the UT161E (or UT61E+) with much better specs (but no temperature range).
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electrician vs electronics usage a bit difference ...
for electronics
I personally like OWON BT41T+
after overclocking changing oscillator from 4M to 8M i'm happy with range changing speed ..
20K resistor and shorting, sorry one hand not so precise , https://streamable.com/5ue4xc
and it has separate AD[something] chip ac converter , so it really truerms, good for 100+ kHz
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I might need to measure mains. so I am looking something safe
I think that would leave out the Aneng's
Why? You're unlikely to die when measuring household mains with one.
I don't say we should downplay safety but these meters aren't "dangerous" per se. The AN870 (for example) has ceramic fuses, etc., for occasional use I'd be happy to poke at household AC with one.
(after I'd tried plugging in a lamp first, etc)
The trick to safety is in procedure. Learn to double-check the leads and dial are in the right position before use. Even a Fluke might make a bang loud enough to make you fall off a ladder if you have the leads in the amps socket.
Edit:
Having said that: I think a meter with input jack warning is a very, very good idea, not just for mains safety but for bench-work, too. I've blown a 400mA fuse with an AA battery. My life wasn't in danger but it's still very annoying.
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I might need to measure mains. so I am looking something safe
I think that would leave out the Aneng's
Why? You're unlikely to die when measuring household mains with one.
Since elias87 specifically asked "I am looking something safe", I leaned toward excluding meters that have little protection. Generally when reading/watching reviews of meters lacking much in the way of PTC or MOVs done by people who know more than I do, there are comments like "this meter is fine for electronics work, but I wouldn't used it on anything more than 30V" or that the meter is "good for use on the bench".
Not to mention that I imagine there's a range of things short of dying that I for one would like to avoid. :)
I mentioned the UT161D because it's in the price range given (at least today) and Uni-T specifically says that "UT161 series are CE certified, suitable for the European market". In other words, Uni-T are specifying the good input protection on the UT161 family.
The UT61D+ is a bit cheaper (I think about the same cost as the AN870) and the teardowns I've seen of the UT61x+ family (mostly UT61E+ but one that included the UT61D+) show the same set of MOVs and PTCs as in the UT161x family (but less beefy fuses). However, like I mentioned, I have a feeling that for the UT61x+ meters where Unit-T doesn't specifically say are "CE certified, suitable for the European market" that they might not populate the MOVs and PTCs on all meters manufactured. Uni-T did that for the UT61E - the meters targeted for the EU had full input protection while most (all?) others did not. (but note that I have no evidence they are doing or will do this with the UT61x+ family - just some mistrust about it)
I have a UT161D (I opted to pass on the UT161E's 22000 counts to save $30 or so). It's a nice meter for around $50. If you don't care about temperature measurement you can save about 10 USD/EUR by going for the UT161B.
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Since elias87 specifically asked "I am looking something safe", I leaned toward excluding meters that have little protection.
I'm just pointing out that owning a Fluke doesn't magically make you safe. At best you're safer.
Generally when reading/watching reviews of meters lacking much in the way of PTC or MOVs done by people who know more than I do, there are comments like "this meter is fine for electronics work, but I wouldn't used it on anything more than 30V" or that the meter is "good for use on the bench".
Fact: Harbor Freight has given away millions of DT830s to non-qualified people in a very litigious country. :popcorn:
I have a UT161D (I opted to pass on the UT161E's 22000 counts to save $30 or so).
I'm just not a Uni-T fan. :-//
Plus: You can get a Brymen with real safety rating and input jack alert for about the same money.
eg. https://brymen.eu/shop/bm805s/
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I'm just pointing out that owning a Fluke doesn't magically make you safe. At best you're safer.
Certainly. This is pretty much true for everything.
Fact: Harbor Freight has given away millions of DT830s to non-qualified people in a very litigious country. :popcorn:
Also true (and I have a couple - free is free!). But like I said, elias87 specifically asked "I am looking something safe"
I'm just not a Uni-T fan. :-//
Plus: You can get a Brymen with real safety rating and input jack alert for about the same money.
eg. https://brymen.eu/shop/bm805s/
It's certainly OK to not be a Uni-T fan. Everything else the same, I'd prefer Brymen over Uni-T. I was unaware of the BM805s - I think it's a good suggestion for elias87 to consider.
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...
Plus: You can get a Brymen with real safety rating and input jack alert for about the same money.
eg. https://brymen.eu/shop/bm805s/
Although, looking at the BM805/806/807 datasheet, they only have 250V rated fuses (breaking capacity and AC/DC unspecified). Granted the jack alert helps avoid accidents but like most DMMs the CAT ratings only apply to the voltage jacks (as indicated by the silkscreen, no attempt at deception there). I don't smell a rat until I see Cat IV on a meter in that price bracket!
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As far as I know, Amazon is no longer selling meters.
I might need to measure mains. so I am looking something safe
I think that would leave out the Aneng's, though for electronic/low voltage stuff the AN870 gets pretty good comments on the forum.
The Uni-T UT161D has decent protection and decent (but not top-notch) specs. You should be able to find it on places like Aliexpress for less than 50 EUR. It's sibling, the UT61D+, is a bit cheaper but I'm not sure if it always has the protection. I think Uni-T may play the game they did with the UT61E where in some markets the protection was provided and in others mostly left out.
For somewhat more money there's the UT161E (or UT61E+) with much better specs (but no temperature range).
Yes the still do. I have found 90dm600 for less than 50 euro and 90dm150 for less than 40.are these considered safe to work with since they have been tested independently?
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looking at the BM805/806/807 datasheet, they only have 250V rated fuses (breaking capacity and AC/DC unspecified).
brymen.eu have an old datasheet (for the BM800 series). brymen.com has the updated data sheet (BM800s series) (http://www.brymen.com/images/ProductsList/BM800s_List/BM800s_Catalog.pdf), which have 1000V rated fuses with an IR of 20kA or 30kA depending on the range.
brymen.com's [url-http://www.brymen.com/images/ProductsList/BM800s_List/BM800s-manual-print1-IEC61010-1-3rd-r1.pdf]manual download[/url] also indicates where changes were made with a red font, which is a nice touch.
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Yes the still do. I have found 90dm600 for less than 50 euro and 90dm150 for less than 40.are these considered safe to work with since they have been tested independently?
Maybe it was only Amazon US that ditched the multimeter line? I'll let others speak to the quality of those meters. I'm pretty sure if you do a forum search on the model numbers there will be a fair amount of info.
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Since elias87 specifically asked "I am looking something safe", I leaned toward excluding meters that have little protection.
I'm just pointing out that owning a Fluke doesn't magically make you safe. At best you're safer.
Generally when reading/watching reviews of meters lacking much in the way of PTC or MOVs done by people who know more than I do, there are comments like "this meter is fine for electronics work, but I wouldn't used it on anything more than 30V" or that the meter is "good for use on the bench".
Fact: Harbor Freight has given away millions of DT830s to non-qualified people in a very litigious country. :popcorn:
I have a UT161D (I opted to pass on the UT161E's 22000 counts to save $30 or so).
I'm just not a Uni-T fan. :-//
Plus: You can get a Brymen with real safety rating and input jack alert for about the same money.
eg. https://brymen.eu/shop/bm805s/
i would like to thank everyone for their help. Fungus in every post about multimeters your expertise is present.. so you recommend brymen? wouldn't mind to try an870 if you vouch for it(everyone seems to praise it) .. half the cost from the brymen.Uni-t I believe are like tossing a coin. plus the ones recommended previously cost more than 50. What is your opinion about amazon multimeters(rebadged cem)? any other to recommend?
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you recommend brymen?
100%, especially if you live in Europe where they're easy to buy. I personally wouldn't buy any other brand for a "serious" meter.
(The USA really loses here...)
wouldn't mind to try an870 if you vouch for it(everyone seems to praise it) .. half the cost from the brymen
I have one and it gets a thumbs up. It can do everything I need a meter to do, no problem. I wouldn't regret having one as a first meter.
It has more features and capabilities than that Brymen (it's Brymen's cheapest meter) but Brymen is a lot better build quality.
(Several people including me have had the screen bezel fall off their AN870. They used bad glue. I don't know if they've fixed that or not. My AN860 (the previous version) has been through a lot of abuse and never had this problem).
What is your opinion about amazon multimeters(rebadged cem)? any other to recommend?
I really don't know much about them. They're not going to be amazing meters though.
My philosophy is like Big Clive: Either go very cheap and accept the limitations/problems or go expensive and get something decent. The middle ground is the area to avoid.
You always need more than one meter so.... get one of each!
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an870 painfully slow on resistors measurement , with basic sequence algorithm, it driving me nut, a bit better with 10M quartz (instead 4M)
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would fluke 101 be better? the reason I mentioned amazon is because they have decent price and protection and they are certified. I saw a comparison between 90dm600 and fluke from kiss analog in YouTube and he praised it. I am so confused. too many options. brymen looks good but seems old. looks can be deceiving though. plus it costs around 70 shipped..I don't know if that extra amount ls worth it and if I paid 70 I could add 20 more to get 235 which is perfect but outside price range for me. again so confused.
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would fluke 101 be better?
No. They don't measure amps.