Good cheap multi-meter?

[sequoia]

Amazon Commercial (rebadged/customized CEM meter apparently) 90DM600 and/or 90DM610 are excellent meters for the money (about $50 US currently)...   90DM600 used to sell under $30-$40 couple months ago but now its more expensive than its big brother 90DM610 at $49...go figure...

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonCommercial-Count-Digital-Multimeter-CATIV/dp/B07W1BL3RH/
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonCommercial-Count-Compact-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B07W3BXNMP/

(availability may be problem outside US though...otherwise its a bargain if want safety certified meter....)

I really like the rugged (and waterproof case), perfect for use when working in garage/outside... Probes are also nice, since they are soft (but not silicone) so they don't get sticky/dirty like most silicone probes get, which happens very easy when working with engines, etc...

[Photolunatic]

I prefer the BM257s over the BM235.

I beat myself for weeks. I cannot decide between BM235 vs. BM257s
Why do you prefer 257s over BM235? It's only 10 euro difference in Germany.

[HKJ]

I beat myself for weeks. I cannot decide between BM235 vs. BM257s
Why do you prefer 257s over BM235? It's only 10 euro difference in Germany.

It can be connected to a computer for not that much extra.
https://brymen.eu/shop/brua-20x-usb-kit-for-bm20xbm25x/

[Photolunatic]

Never needed to connect to the PC. The BRUA-20X USB Interface cost 25 euro, so 35 euro difference for a feature that I do not plan to use soon.
Anyway, does the software work on Linux?

[HKJ]

Never needed to connect to the PC. The BRUA-20X USB Interface cost 25 euro, so 35 euro difference for a feature the I do not plan to use soon.
Anyway, does the software work on Linux?

The software include with the interface: NO
My software for all kind of meters and other devices: YES
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/program-that-can-log-from-many-multimeters/

[sb42]

I prefer the BM257s over the BM235.
Brymen has some cheap automotive meter

https://brymen.eu/shop/bm319s/

I beat myself for weeks. I cannot decide between BM235 vs. BM257s
Why do you prefer 257s over BM235? It's only 10 euro difference in Germany.

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/what-do-you-think-of-your-eevblog-brymen-bm235-multimeter/msg1040349/#msg1040349

[sb42]

Never needed to connect to the PC. The BRUA-20X USB Interface cost 25 euro, so 35 euro difference for a feature the I do not plan to use soon.
Anyway, does the software work on Linux?

The software include with the interface: NO
My software for all kind of meters and other devices: YES
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/program-that-can-log-from-many-multimeters/

Also: https://sigrok.org/wiki/Brymen_BM257s

[Photolunatic]

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/what-do-you-think-of-your-eevblog-brymen-bm235-multimeter/msg1040349/#msg1040349

I know. I have seen that comment some time ago. 1V diode test in BM257s is a bummer.
Because of that, I keep staring back at 235. I would find BeepLit Continuity Tester useful too.
Cheers!

[sb42]

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/what-do-you-think-of-your-eevblog-brymen-bm235-multimeter/msg1040349/#msg1040349

I know. I have seen your comment some time ago. 1V diode test in BM257s is a bummer.
Because of that, I keep staring back at 235. I would find BeepLit Continuity Tester useful too.
Cheers!

(Not my comment).

Well, I think most people around here will conclude that one must simply own several meters. And sometimes you do need to measure two or more things at the same time.
In my case I wanted the 257's bar graph more than the 235's diode test voltage, and I disliked the 235's blue backlight.

[EEVblog]

I prefer the BM257s over the BM235.
Brymen has some cheap automotive meter

https://brymen.eu/shop/bm319s/

I beat myself for weeks. I cannot decide between BM235 vs. BM257s
Why do you prefer 257s over BM235? It's only 10 euro difference in Germany.

235 has two level EF testing, AVG record mode, Beeplit continuity, and VFD.
257 has a bargraph and serial.

[Photolunatic]

I beat myself for weeks. I cannot decide between BM235 vs. BM257s

235 has two level EF testing, AVG record mode, Beeplit continuity, and VFD.
257 has a bargraph and serial.

235 also has 10 min backlight, caps <10mF
257 has CREST

Thanks, Dave!

[Gandalf_Sr]

Apart from 3 Keysight multimeters, I also have two Aneng 8008s, an Aneng AN870, and an Aneng Q10 on the way to me.  The Anengs are good, cheap, multimeters IMHO.

[Photolunatic]

Finally, ordered EEV case and BM235 from Welectron.
Thanks for the clues.

[elias87]

Hello.. looking to buy my first multimeter and i am between amazon 90dm600 (or rather similar 90dm610) and aneng 870 or 8008.which one would you recommend for a beginner. I might need to measure mains. so I am looking something safe for maximum 40-50euro.any other multimeter to recommend? thank you.

[mwb1100]

As far as I know, Amazon is no longer selling meters.

I might need to measure mains. so I am looking something safe

I think that would leave out the Aneng's, though for electronic/low voltage stuff the AN870 gets pretty good comments on the forum.

The Uni-T UT161D has decent protection and decent (but not top-notch) specs.  You should be able to find it on places like Aliexpress for less than 50 EUR.  It's sibling, the UT61D+, is a bit cheaper but I'm not sure if it always has the protection.  I think Uni-T may play the game they did with the UT61E where in some markets the protection was provided and in others mostly left out.

For somewhat more money there's the UT161E (or UT61E+) with much better specs (but no temperature range).

[GigaJoe]

electrician vs electronics usage a bit difference ...

for electronics 
I personally like OWON BT41T+
after overclocking changing oscillator from 4M to 8M  i'm happy with range changing speed ..
20K resistor and shorting,  sorry one hand not so precise , https://streamable.com/5ue4xc

and it has separate AD[something]  chip ac converter , so it really truerms, good for 100+ kHz

[Fungus]

I might need to measure mains. so I am looking something safe

I think that would leave out the Aneng's

Why? You're unlikely to die when measuring household mains with one.

I don't say we should downplay safety but these meters aren't "dangerous" per se. The AN870 (for example) has ceramic fuses, etc., for occasional use I'd be happy to poke at household AC with one.

(after I'd tried plugging in a lamp first, etc)

The trick to safety is in procedure. Learn to double-check the leads and dial are in the right position before use. Even a Fluke might make a bang loud enough to make you fall off a ladder if you have the leads in the amps socket.

Edit:
Having said that: I think a meter with input jack warning is a very, very good idea, not just for mains safety but for bench-work, too. I've blown a 400mA fuse with an AA battery. My life wasn't in danger but it's still very annoying.

[mwb1100]

I might need to measure mains. so I am looking something safe

I think that would leave out the Aneng's

Why? You're unlikely to die when measuring household mains with one.

Since elias87 specifically asked "I am looking something safe", I leaned toward excluding meters that have little protection.  Generally when reading/watching reviews of meters lacking much in the way of PTC or MOVs done by people who know more than I do, there are comments like "this meter is fine for electronics work, but I wouldn't used it on anything more than 30V" or that the meter is "good for use on the bench".

Not to mention that I imagine there's a range of things short of dying that I for one would like to avoid.   

I mentioned the UT161D because it's in the price range given (at least today) and Uni-T specifically says that "UT161 series are CE certified, suitable for the European market".  In other words, Uni-T are specifying the good input protection on the UT161 family.

The UT61D+ is a bit cheaper (I think about the same cost as the AN870) and the teardowns I've seen of the UT61x+ family (mostly UT61E+ but one that included the UT61D+) show the same set of MOVs and PTCs as in the UT161x family (but less beefy fuses).  However, like I mentioned, I have a feeling that for the UT61x+ meters where Unit-T doesn't specifically say are "CE certified, suitable for the European market" that they might not populate the MOVs and PTCs on all meters manufactured.  Uni-T did that for the UT61E - the meters targeted for the EU had full input protection while most (all?) others did not. (but note that I have no evidence they are doing or will do this with the UT61x+ family - just some mistrust about it)

I have a UT161D (I opted to pass on the UT161E's 22000 counts to save $30 or so).  It's a nice meter for around $50.  If you don't care about temperature measurement you can save about 10 USD/EUR by going for the UT161B.

[Fungus]

Since elias87 specifically asked "I am looking something safe", I leaned toward excluding meters that have little protection.

I'm just pointing out that owning a Fluke doesn't magically make you safe. At best you're safer.

Generally when reading/watching reviews of meters lacking much in the way of PTC or MOVs done by people who know more than I do, there are comments like "this meter is fine for electronics work, but I wouldn't used it on anything more than 30V" or that the meter is "good for use on the bench".

Fact: Harbor Freight has given away millions of DT830s to non-qualified people in a very litigious country.   

I have a UT161D (I opted to pass on the UT161E's 22000 counts to save $30 or so).

I'm just not a Uni-T fan. 

Plus: You can get a Brymen with real safety rating and input jack alert for about the same money.

eg. https://brymen.eu/shop/bm805s/

[mwb1100]

I'm just pointing out that owning a Fluke doesn't magically make you safe. At best you're safer.

Certainly.  This is pretty much true for everything.

Fact: Harbor Freight has given away millions of DT830s to non-qualified people in a very litigious country.   

Also true (and I have a couple - free is free!).  But like I said,  elias87 specifically asked "I am looking something safe"

I'm just not a Uni-T fan. 

Plus: You can get a Brymen with real safety rating and input jack alert for about the same money.

eg. https://brymen.eu/shop/bm805s/

It's certainly OK to not be a Uni-T fan.  Everything else the same, I'd prefer Brymen over Uni-T.  I was unaware of the BM805s - I think it's a good suggestion for elias87 to consider.

[Gyro]

...
Plus: You can get a Brymen with real safety rating and input jack alert for about the same money.

eg. https://brymen.eu/shop/bm805s/

Although, looking at the BM805/806/807 datasheet, they only have 250V rated fuses (breaking capacity and AC/DC unspecified). Granted the jack alert helps avoid accidents but like most DMMs the CAT ratings only apply to the voltage jacks (as indicated by the silkscreen, no attempt at deception there). I don't smell a rat until I see Cat IV on a meter in that price bracket!

[elias87]

As far as I know, Amazon is no longer selling meters.

I might need to measure mains. so I am looking something safe

I think that would leave out the Aneng's, though for electronic/low voltage stuff the AN870 gets pretty good comments on the forum.

The Uni-T UT161D has decent protection and decent (but not top-notch) specs.  You should be able to find it on places like Aliexpress for less than 50 EUR.  It's sibling, the UT61D+, is a bit cheaper but I'm not sure if it always has the protection.  I think Uni-T may play the game they did with the UT61E where in some markets the protection was provided and in others mostly left out.

For somewhat more money there's the UT161E (or UT61E+) with much better specs (but no temperature range).

Yes the still do. I have found 90dm600 for less than 50 euro and 90dm150 for less than 40.are these considered safe to work with since they have been tested independently?

[mwb1100]

looking at the BM805/806/807 datasheet, they only have 250V rated fuses (breaking capacity and AC/DC unspecified).

brymen.eu have an old datasheet (for the BM800 series). brymen.com has the updated data sheet (BM800s series), which have 1000V rated fuses with an IR of 20kA or 30kA depending on the range.

brymen.com's [url-http://www.brymen.com/images/ProductsList/BM800s_List/BM800s-manual-print1-IEC61010-1-3rd-r1.pdf]manual download[/url] also indicates where changes were made with a red font, which is a nice touch.

[mwb1100]

Yes the still do. I have found 90dm600 for less than 50 euro and 90dm150 for less than 40.are these considered safe to work with since they have been tested independently?

Maybe it was only Amazon US that ditched the multimeter line?  I'll let others speak to the quality of those meters.  I'm pretty sure if you do a forum search on the model numbers there will be a fair amount of info.

[elias87]

Since elias87 specifically asked "I am looking something safe", I leaned toward excluding meters that have little protection.

I'm just pointing out that owning a Fluke doesn't magically make you safe. At best you're safer.

Generally when reading/watching reviews of meters lacking much in the way of PTC or MOVs done by people who know more than I do, there are comments like "this meter is fine for electronics work, but I wouldn't used it on anything more than 30V" or that the meter is "good for use on the bench".

Fact: Harbor Freight has given away millions of DT830s to non-qualified people in a very litigious country.   

I have a UT161D (I opted to pass on the UT161E's 22000 counts to save $30 or so).

I'm just not a Uni-T fan. 

Plus: You can get a Brymen with real safety rating and input jack alert for about the same money.

eg. https://brymen.eu/shop/bm805s/

i would like to thank everyone for their help. Fungus in every post about multimeters your expertise is present.. so you recommend brymen? wouldn't mind to try an870 if you vouch for it(everyone seems to praise it) .. half the cost from the brymen.Uni-t I believe are like tossing a coin. plus the ones recommended previously cost more than 50. What is your opinion about amazon multimeters(rebadged cem)? any other to recommend?