Products > Test Equipment
Hantek 6022BE 20MHz USB DSO
softfoot:
I cobbled together a PCB for the AC/DC mod based on the schematic and layout refered to above and it works well, YMMV.
The only snag with the design that I have found is that if you run the original software it always runs in AC mode!
but as I only run the OpenHantek software I dont really care, but if you use both you may want to find another way.
I have 4 spare bare PCBs littering my desk and I'll happily post one within the UK for £2 including postage,
contact me offlist if interested. I'll make the gerbers available here if there is interest.
It is entirely your responsibility if you destroy your scope making this mod, it's not hard but care needs to be taken.
Dave
.rpv:
--- Quote from: danielcozak on October 10, 2021, 08:58:44 pm ---Ups...! Just blew my new Hantek 6022be (on its first trial run). Its also my first diode (LR206) blow-up, ;-) by shorting one of the probes. Hence, no more scope. I looked inside the unit and it looks like there is hope. I found and cleaned the only area that seems to have given up. It seems to be an evaporated inductor labeled L3 near the USB cable junction on the left side of the PCB, no JP1. My problem is that I do not know what its Henry value is? Can any body hellllllPPPP me. Mile merci du Québec.
--- End quote ---
Hi, I tried to measure it with the transistor tester, but only reads it as a 0.2Ω resistor (tested on board), so it's under 10uH, it seems to be acting as a power filter so you should be looking for the biggest inductance that's rated for 300-500mA, probable be under 1uH.
Also, maybe it's just the photo or the angle, but the capacitor C15 seems to have some smoking on the ground side, but I'll be checking it, maybe it's gone too.
Gyro:
--- Quote from: danielcozak on October 10, 2021, 08:58:44 pm ---Ups...! Just blew my new Hantek 6022be (on its first trial run). Its also my first diode (LR206) blow-up, ;-) by shorting one of the probes. Hence, no more scope. I looked inside the unit and it looks like there is hope. I found and cleaned the only area that seems to have given up. It seems to be an evaporated inductor labeled L3 near the USB cable junction on the left side of the PCB, no JP1. My problem is that I do not know what its Henry value is? Can any body hellllllPPPP me. Mile merci du Québec.
--- End quote ---
Can you describe exactly what you were doing? It would be helpful to understand what magnitude of currents / voltages were involved.
If it took out, what looks like a small EMC suppression inductor or Ferrite bead (L3) to the USB connector housing, then it is also likely to have sent considerable current down the USB ground wire to the PC so the inductor may not be the only casualty. Have you tested the PC USB port that it was connected to, to see if it is still functional? This will also give an indication of what other damage has been done to the Hantek.
This is unfortunately a good argument for using galvanically isolated USB instruments, but with some methodical fault finding, it may be possible to rescue it. The loss of L3 in itself isn't necessarily a reason for the scope not to be working - it looks like it's in the path to the USB cable screen, not its internal ground wire, hence the need to check the USB port etc.
simba15:
--- Quote from: softfoot on October 10, 2021, 10:16:27 pm ---I cobbled together a PCB for the AC/DC mod based on the schematic and layout refered to above and it works well, YMMV.
The only snag with the design that I have found is that if you run the original software it always runs in AC mode!
but as I only run the OpenHantek software I dont really care, but if you use both you may want to find another way.
I have 4 spare bare PCBs littering my desk and I'll happily post one within the UK for £2 including postage,
contact me offlist if interested. I'll make the gerbers available here if there is interest.
It is entirely your responsibility if you destroy your scope making this mod, it's not hard but care needs to be taken.
Dave
--- End quote ---
Are you able to post the Gerber file?
Thanks.
horo:
--- Quote from: softfoot on October 10, 2021, 10:16:27 pm ---...
The only snag with the design that I have found is that if you run the original software it always runs in AC mode!
but as I only run the OpenHantek software I dont really care, but if you use both you may want to find another way.
...
--- End quote ---
Yes, I thought about the levels for AC / DC switching and then finally followed sigrok's implementation. There you can
1. change the configuration for 6022BE
from "ARRAY_AND_SIZE(dc_coupling), FALSE"
to "ARRAY_AND_SIZE(acdc_coupling), TRUE" in these lines:
https://github.com/sigrokproject/libsigrok/blob/fb28e72dfdea0d985e03795f1f058aa4621e7e55/src/hardware/hantek-6xxx/api.c#L79
https://github.com/sigrokproject/libsigrok/blob/fb28e72dfdea0d985e03795f1f058aa4621e7e55/src/hardware/hantek-6xxx/api.c#L86
(do the same also for BL if needed).
2. change this line
https://github.com/sigrokproject/sigrok-firmware-fx2lafw/blob/61f1c8fc33ce959f167f6bcb5ba3b0959d60b038/hw/hantek-6022be/fw.c#L29
from "#define SET_COUPLING(x)" to "#define SET_COUPLING(x) set_coupling(x)"
and then get exactly the OH6022 behaviour.
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