I cobbled together a PCB for the AC/DC mod based on the schematic and layout refered to above and it works well, YMMV.
The only snag with the design that I have found is that if you run the original software it always runs in AC mode!
but as I only run the OpenHantek software I dont really care, but if you use both you may want to find another way.
I have 4 spare bare PCBs littering my desk and I'll happily post one within the UK for £2 including postage,
contact me offlist if interested. I'll make the gerbers available here if there is interest.
It is entirely your responsibility if you destroy your scope making this mod, it's not hard but care needs to be taken.
Dave
Ups...! Just blew my new Hantek 6022be (on its first trial run). Its also my first diode (LR206) blow-up, ;-) by shorting one of the probes. Hence, no more scope. I looked inside the unit and it looks like there is hope. I found and cleaned the only area that seems to have given up. It seems to be an evaporated inductor labeled L3 near the USB cable junction on the left side of the PCB, no JP1. My problem is that I do not know what its Henry value is? Can any body hellllllPPPP me. Mile merci du Québec.
Hi, I tried to measure it with the transistor tester, but only reads it as a 0.2Ω resistor (tested on board), so it's under 10uH, it seems to be acting as a power filter so you should be looking for the biggest inductance that's rated for 300-500mA, probable be under 1uH.
Also, maybe it's just the photo or the angle, but the capacitor C15 seems to have some smoking on the ground side, but I'll be checking it, maybe it's gone too.
Ups...! Just blew my new Hantek 6022be (on its first trial run). Its also my first diode (LR206) blow-up, ;-) by shorting one of the probes. Hence, no more scope. I looked inside the unit and it looks like there is hope. I found and cleaned the only area that seems to have given up. It seems to be an evaporated inductor labeled L3 near the USB cable junction on the left side of the PCB, no JP1. My problem is that I do not know what its Henry value is? Can any body hellllllPPPP me. Mile merci du Québec.
Can you describe exactly what you were doing? It would be helpful to understand what magnitude of currents / voltages were involved.
If it took out, what looks like a small EMC suppression inductor or Ferrite bead (L3) to the USB connector housing, then it is also likely to have sent considerable current down the USB ground wire to the PC so the inductor may not be the only casualty. Have you tested the PC USB port that it was connected to, to see if it is still functional? This will also give an indication of what other damage has been done to the Hantek.
This is unfortunately a good argument for using galvanically isolated USB instruments, but with some methodical fault finding, it may be possible to rescue it. The loss of L3 in itself isn't necessarily a reason for the scope not to be working - it looks like it's in the path to the USB cable screen, not its internal ground wire, hence the need to check the USB port etc.
I cobbled together a PCB for the AC/DC mod based on the schematic and layout refered to above and it works well, YMMV.
The only snag with the design that I have found is that if you run the original software it always runs in AC mode!
but as I only run the OpenHantek software I dont really care, but if you use both you may want to find another way.
I have 4 spare bare PCBs littering my desk and I'll happily post one within the UK for £2 including postage,
contact me offlist if interested. I'll make the gerbers available here if there is interest.
It is entirely your responsibility if you destroy your scope making this mod, it's not hard but care needs to be taken.
Dave
Are you able to post the Gerber file?
Thanks.
Hello and good evening
have just set up my new measurement laptop with Windows 11.
The Windows x64 binary did not work because 2 vcruntime.dll's were missing.
You have to install the
https://aka.ms/vs/17/release/vc_redist.x86.exe. Possibly also the
https://aka.ms/vs/17/release/vc_redist.x64.exe.I could not find a hint anywhere on GitHub. So I just say it here for all newbies.
And because I'm lazy at the moment, I just had this text translated with Deepl.
By the way, this is a great alternative to the original software from Hantek. Much better!
Greetings
Translated with
www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
Hi guys, I have a hard time finding what is happening on my win7/64 installations. The farther I got with the software is to install the winusb driver via Zadig. Past this, nothing. I start the latest OpenHantek (always the actual latest since about 2 years ago) and the interface simply cannot find the plugged-in 6022BE. Yes, 2 years, and I always had to stick with Hantek's original software, which I don't like at all, but at least it works (sure, calibration and other minor things not, but who cares?).
So, my question is: what the hell am I missing? I spent alot of time reading how to install the driver and I cannot find out how to install the driver TWICE, once without the firmware and second with firmware, according to I don't remember which howto.
Update: I installed the vcredistx64 from the OpenHantek-Win-X64-Release-B152.zip archive and now the OpenHantek is crashing with the message about executable stopped. Before the crash I can see for a brief moment in the main window the message that Hantek6022BE is ready to use (or something similar). So what now? Should I install anything more to be able to use the OH?
Update2: The system is a freshly installed windows7, by mistake I installed the USB driver from the manufacturer, but with 2 hours of fiddling in the Registry and Device Manager, I managed to completely uninstall it. I took Zadig and installed the winusb driver as the tutorial says (installed twice, first without firmware, second with firmware), the software now recognizes the scope for a fraction of a second and it crashes. If I don't connect the scope to the laptop, the OpenHantek6022 stays up, until I connect the scope and crashes. What the hell is going on? Please anybody help me! I can't even install a Linux on this blasted piece of crap, linux installer simply fails to boot in, so I must stick to Windows.
Hello all! I am looking to purchase a 6022BL from Amazon, but there are two listings for it, one that is simply labeled "6022BL" and another labeled "6022BL - Previous". I asked the seller what the difference is between the two, and they told me it was a single resistor changed on the motherboard, however, they wouldn't tell me what resistor was changed, nor what value it was changed to, citing
warranty reasons.
Does anyone know what resistor they are referring to and what value it is on the current model? I would order the current model, if it didn't take two months to arrive, as opposed to the two day arrival of the previous model. Thanks for your time!
The Windows x64 binary did not work because 2 vcruntime.dll's were missing.
You have to install the vc_redist.x86.exe.
Possibly also the vc_redist.x64.exe.
I could not find a hint anywhere on GitHub. So I just say it here for all newbies.
Did you check the provided vc_redist.x64.exe from the *.zip? What was the error message?
...
What the hell is going on?
...
What does the program say if started from cmd.exe? Did you play with the options, especially with --verbose? (hint: OpenHantek -h)
OpenHantek6022 (20220223 - commit 958)
Usage: OpenHantek [options]
Options:
-?, -h, --help Displays help on commandline options.
--help-all Displays help including Qt specific options.
-v, --version Displays version information.
-d, --demoMode Demo mode without scope HW
-e, --useGLES Use OpenGL ES instead of OpenGL
--useGLSL120 Force OpenGL SL version 1.20
--useGLSL150 Force OpenGL SL version 1.50
-i, --international Show the international interface, do not
translate
-f, --font <Font> Define the system font
-s, --size <Size> Set the font size (default = 10, 0: automatic
from dpi)
-c, --condensed <Condensed> Set the font condensed value (default = 87)
--resetSettings Reset persistent settings, start with default
--verbose <Level> Verbose tracing of program startup, ui and
processing steps
Did you check the signed driver?
https://github.com/OpenHantek/OpenHantek6022#windows-usb-accessHave also a look at #251:
https://github.com/OpenHantek/OpenHantek6022/pull/251HTH, Martin
does this s/w support DSO5000 series from hantek.
Any plans to make it work the DSO5000 or DSO2000 series ?
I have downloaded a copy and plan to test.
OpenHantek6022 no longer supports the 2xxx and 5xxx series, the last version with support can be found in this branch:
https://github.com/OpenHantek/OpenHantek6022/tree/last_legacy_supportI have abandoned support for the other series because the different communication protocols required compromises that led to limitations, especially with the 6022. I also do not have the necessary hardware for testing.
But you can either take my above-mentioned branch as a starting point for your own developments or revive the currently no longer maintained predecessor project:
https://github.com/OpenHantek/openhantek
I would like to try this s/w with DSO5102P hantek.
Will it work.
Or is there a specific version that I need.
Do I need to install a particular driver to get it to work ?.
Sorry for this noob question.
Hi. I use a google translator/
Hello connoisseurs. I wanted to ask first. Is it possible to make friends with a USB oscilloscope with a Bluetooth module?
In my case, this is
the damned hantek 6022be, the filling is indicated.
In the presence there is this module
HC-06 which is connected via UART protocol
Hi,
as I recently wrote on GitHub, it is of course not possible to connect the oscilloscope via Bluetooth _instead_of_ USB, as the net data rate is up to 30 MByte/s and now already fully utilises the capacity of a high-speed USB port.
But maybe I misunderstood your idea, please give more details what you really want to do with the HC-06 module.
I recently did a teardown wanted to do a review of the Hantek 6022BE myself but saw that Aurora has already posted a lot of good pictures and description of the instrument's guts - better quality than the cell phone pictures I took. What I can add is a review about the unit's functionality and usability (or lack thereof, as you will see below).
get-mobdro.com
For anyone else that wants to make up the copper screening cans, here are the dimensions.
I made them up from some 0.4mm copper sheet from amazon.
The additional EMI shielding uses some Wurth Elektronik 30410S I had leftover from an audio project; effective stuff, but expensive.
Additional images show Richard's bypass cap mod's installed, BoM is included in my post on page 47.
Noise level is currently circa 8mVPP.
Just the AC mod to do.
How is AC/DC selected once the mod is implemented/
'Updated' Windows drivers for OpenHantek.
What are the criteria for choosing the right photo-MOS? Why was Panasonic AQY210EH chosen, and can it be replaced by Cosmo KAQV214S
https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/89049/COSMO/KAQV214S.html ? As far as I can see from the datasheets, there is only one significant difference (besides a lower insulation resistance on the Cosmo), and that is I/O capacitance - Panasonic has 0.8pF typical and 1.5pF max, whereas Cosmo has 6pF typical (both at 1MHz). I'm not quite sure what the implications of this are. For example, will it badly affect the performance / signal quality; will it make the scope more susceptible to damage due to high voltage spikes, etc.? Does anyone have experience with using another photoMOS than the AQY210EH?
Edit: To clarify -- the reason why I want to use KAQV214S instead of AQY210EH is that my local supplier only has the latter in an SMD package, whereas the former also in a THT package.