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Hantek CC-65 AC/DC Current Probe Teardown and Testing

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jrf:
Try reading the posts above or looking at the PDF schematic attached above.
ie TLC272 & TL062 as marked on drawing.

JRF

jrf:
Further testing of CC-65:
AC: 50Hz
Dodgy is the best way to describe the performance of the clamp.  At 65A it worked well. But at low currents ie <6A it was poor. The Zero offset was high & took a long time to stabilise. ie Zero of 400mA common.
DC:
At low currents accuracy +/- 10%. ie <2Amps.
Above this accuracy improved. At 60Amps it was good.
BUT 60A DC magnetisd the head. So when removed it still read 2A.
Reversing the current direction through the meter re-zeroed it.
I also put it back on 60A AC to make sure. (I used a Microwave transformer converted to a spot welder pluged into a variac to generate the current. I could do 1000A if I had a big enough variac & was fast enough.) Search for info on DIY spot welders.
I used a Fluke clamp meter & multimeter to compare. The Fluke uses more modern systems & is not affected by magnetic fields etc. It indicates down to 10ma but drifts up to 50ma over 10min. So the CC-65 is more sensitive & stable at low readings so long as not phisically moved.

Verdict: It does the job it was designed to do. ie Automotive testing.
It is not a accurate measuring instrument. It is an indicator. It shows what is going on.
As such I am happy. For $72AU it does the job I need.
Looking at what else is available I would need to pay 10-20X that to get something better enough to make a difference.

Cheers,
John

mqsaharan:
Hi jrf,
Thanks for the schematic. I think the 3.3k resistor attached to Zero button and 470uF capacitor marked as R34 is actually R24 and I also have doubts about the R269, its assigned number as well as its value. Please reconfirm it before making any changes.

I don't own this clamp. I have Peaktech 4250, instead. And the schematic is almost the same with difference in some component values.
The power supply ripple was horrible at the output of its voltage regulator U5. I did replace C1A, C7A and C9A with double values but the ripple remained there. Then I installed a 6.8uF capacitor at the input of U5 and all the ripple was gone.
I didn't install 100nF capacitors that you suggested in your schematic. The little testing that I have done with this probe, I think these are not needed.

Regards,
Qasim.

jrf:
Agreed R34 is actually R24, Typo. Thanks! Good to see others interested enough to check & let me know.
R269 is on the bottom of the board & clearly marked on the photos I have.
Colours Brown-black-black-green---brown(I think).  Looks like 1-2W.  2 other schematics here show it but one says 100M.
(will not dismantle again, now, as the power switch can be a pain if the wipers fall off!)
Not sure why it is there, under the board as well as in the circuit, or the size!??
Often large capacitors have dischage resistors to make them safe to work on some time after the power is removed or for ballancing but neither apply in this circuit.

I agree adding 100nF after the reg is actually in parrallel with C9, so is unlikely to do much. Missed that!. C1 has nothing to do with the regulator ripple & C7 is large already.
By putting a capacitor on the input to the reg it implies a resistance in the battery supply circuit. ie dirty switch contacts? or poor battery, but that is often why capacitors are put there! ie my second new 100nF. May be undersized!. Did you put it to battery -ve or circuit gnd? Not impressed with the power/selector switch at all! Designed to give problems!.

Cheers,
John.

Cheers,
John.

Martin72:
Here is the schematic I´ve drawn from my owon cp-05+ (200Khz, 4/40/400A, appx 170€):

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/pintek-pa622-current-probe-crap-or-just-cheap/msg2220903/#msg2220903

It seems, it´s nearly the same design regardless of the price.

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