EEVblog Electronics Community Forum
Products => Test Equipment => Topic started by: ender4171 on July 27, 2018, 02:20:36 pm
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Hey All,
I have a Fluke 289 that has the detached IR diode issue. I am wondering if anyone here who has torn one down can tell me how to remove the LCD ribbon cable. The connector on the board is a white plastic piece with the ribbon going into it, but it does not appear to be a ZIF connector of any sort. At least there is no obvious tab to unlock. It looks like it MIGHT just press fit on (or the ribbon might just get pushed into it) but I am hesitant to pull on it with any force as I do not want to damage it if that is not the case.
I can do the repair without removing the LCD, but it would be much easier to work on just the board itself.
Any advice (particularly a video link to a 289 or similar teardown that shows this connector being removed) is much appreciated!
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hum does this one need to be pushed down in direction of pcb ??? i don't see the side of it in the teardown pictures ... it seems so has you gessed
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I know the 289 has gone through a few hardware revisions. In this post I list a link to a public photobucket of mine. It has some good close teardown of the fluke 289.
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/my-first-fluke-the-fluke-289-purchase-decision-and-tear-down-photos/msg757345/#msg757345 (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/my-first-fluke-the-fluke-289-purchase-decision-and-tear-down-photos/msg757345/#msg757345)
Hope this helps,
Scott
Hey All,
I have a Fluke 289 that has the detached IR diode issue. I am wondering if anyone here who has torn one down can tell me how to remove the LCD ribbon cable. The connector on the board is a white plastic piece with the ribbon going into it, but it does not appear to be a ZIF connector of any sort. At least there is no obvious tab to unlock. It looks like it MIGHT just press fit on (or the ribbon might just get pushed into it) but I am hesitant to pull on it with any force as I do not want to damage it if that is not the case.
I can do the repair without removing the LCD, but it would be much easier to work on just the board itself.
Any advice (particularly a video link to a 289 or similar teardown that shows this connector being removed) is much appreciated!