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The timebase shaft goes through 2 plug-in PCB's and have grub screwed shaft retaining collars.Form memory the manual describes a method to remove these PCB's that entails removing that shaft, and that will allow you to clean the dials.
Wow, this is a long-lived thread.I was just given two 1741A 'scopes for free. I have no idea what is wrong with them, other than that they do not work. I'll be posting pictures and progress.
Also, are there any recommendations on who sells various parts (like the aforementioned cracked delay TIME/DIV knob) for the 174x series?
Keeping this thread alive...I'm working on a 1743A and am having problems with TIME/DIV controls. The main control won't rotate more than a couple of positions CW or CCW - sounds like it might be a bent contact in the rotary switch or perhaps some hardened grease. Also the delay TIME/DIV knob cracked off, but at least the shaft rotates easily by hand. And those grub screws in the knobs are a pain - wish they would have milled some flat surfaces into the shaft so the set screws could mate flush. Seems like this is a weak point on these scopes. Will be having a closer look inside...My main question is: is there a version of the 1743A manual that has as much detailed repair information as the 1740A one? The 1743A manual on the Agilent site:http://cp.literature.agilent.com/litweb/pdf/01743-90905.pdfhas a BoM and exploded diagrams but not a schematic, repair procedures, etc.Also, are there any recommendations on who sells various parts (like the aforementioned cracked delay TIME/DIV knob) for the 174x series?
IIRC a 1740 I had at one time did the same and I'm pretty sure it's a result of incorrect reassembly, at least it was in mine....I'd had it apart.
Quote from: tautech on July 09, 2016, 09:15:25 pmIIRC a 1740 I had at one time did the same and I'm pretty sure it's a result of incorrect reassembly, at least it was in mine....I'd had it apart. I'll second that, having had similar experiences on my hp1740.It is surprisingly difficult to get both knobs, both shafts and both rotors in the right position. It is even worse if, like me, you had also moved the knobs on the shaft in order to add a more visible legend to the timebase control.
Quote from: tggzzz on July 09, 2016, 10:52:03 pmQuote from: tautech on July 09, 2016, 09:15:25 pmIIRC a 1740 I had at one time did the same and I'm pretty sure it's a result of incorrect reassembly, at least it was in mine....I'd had it apart. I'll second that, having had similar experiences on my hp1740.It is surprisingly difficult to get both knobs, both shafts and both rotors in the right position. It is even worse if, like me, you had also moved the knobs on the shaft in order to add a more visible legend to the timebase control.Turned out you both were pretty close - the boards appear to have been knocked around a bit at some point. The side of the boards closest to the case were all about 10 degrees flexed towards the back of the case, relative to the side of the chassis. As such, the middle board (for the main TIME/DEV) was askew relative to where it mated with the shaft. A careful bit of forward pressure and "pop" - all three boards returned to perpendicular, unjamming the main TIME/DIV shaft. All is now good. They should really have had slots on the case side for each board to slip into so they weren't just held in place by the one edge connector. Now to find those knobs...
last set !.
Listen to my friend!HP makes your job easier: there is a number for each wire connection, eg. 956. Equal to the color of the matching wire according to the resistance color scale: 9white, 5green, 6blue equal to white wire with blue and green stripe. I tak dalee ...Hi. PP