Mike has asked me for a better bill of materials for the PCB, and I thought I'd post it here so anyone building this PCB in the future can see it.
C101 and C105: 330µF 35V Ø10mm THT low impedance electrolytic capacitor
Nippon Chemicon EKZE350ELL331MJ16S
Element14,
Mouser,
DigikeyC102, C104 and C106: 100nF 100V THT 5mm pitch metalised PET capacitor
Wima MKS2D031001A00KSSD or MKS2D031001A00MSSD
Element14,
Mouser,
DigikeyC103: 10µF 63V Ø5mm THT general purpose electrolytic capacitor
Nippon Chemicon EKMG630ELL100ME11D
Element14,
Mouser,
DigikeyC107: 1nF 400V THT 5mm pitch metalised PET capacitor
Wima FKS2G011001A00KSSD or FKS2D011001A00MSSD
Element14,
Mouser,
DigikeyJ101: 2.54mm pitch THT pin header, 10.8mm total length, 6 way
Amphenol 68000-204HLF
Element14,
Mouser,
DigikeyR101 and R105: 100R DIN0204 size THT metal film resistor
Welwyn MFR3-100RFC or Vishay MBA02040C1000FCT00
Element14,
Mouser,
DigikeyR102: 680R DIN0204 size THT metal film resistor
Welwyn MFR3-680RFC or Vishay MBA02040C6800FCT00
Element14,
Mouser,
DigikeyR103: 560R DIN0204 size THT metal film resistor
Welwyn MFR3-560RFC or Vishay MBA02040C5600FCT00
Element14,
Mouser,
DigikeyR104: 20kR 25 turn THT potentiometer with staggered leads and side adjustment screw
Bourns 3296Z-1-203LF
Element14,
Mouser,
DigikeyU101: LM1084, LM1085 or LM1086 type TO220 adjustable linear voltage regulator
ST Micro LD1086BV
Element14,
Mouser,
DigikeyX101: Morion MV85A C20F-5V-SIN
I bought mine on eBay, at the time these were a compact, cheap and power efficient option with the right output type and level.
Other things you'll need:
- Two UNC6-32 threaded spacers, male to female type with a 7/16" body length to mount the board. You'll also need a couple of 6-32UNC machine screws.
- An M3x10mm machine screw and two M3 nuts.
- A TO-220 heatsink, such as a Wakefield 274-2AB Element14, Mouser, Digikey.
When mounting the heatsink the M3 machine screw should go through from the underside of the board, then have the following stack; PCB, M3 nut, heatsink, TO-220 voltage regulator, M3 nut. The first nut is important, it spaces the heatsink off the PCB. Make sure the head of the screw isn't so large that it's bigger than the diameter of the area clear of groundplane on the PCB. You don't need to use insulating hardware to isolate the voltage regulator from the heatsink unless it's touching something conductive, which it shouldn't be.