I need to know the History of FLUKE 87 ( 1988 - 2010 )

[Aldobrandi]

I recently got a 87III from eBay and it exhibits the same behavior you are describing (clickling sound at startup and bargraph excitability on AC range. I don't have the equipment to perform a full battery of tests so I can't tell if there's anything else unusual. I'm curious as well to hear what people have to say. Thanks!

[jcpx]

Thanks for the feedback, yours having a similar behavior is already a good sign (hopefully). Let see if other people have some feedbacks to provide.

On my side, I did a quick check on the basic functions and it seems to work correctly.
AC Votlage OK
DC voltage OK
Frequency OK
Resistor and continuity OK
DC current OK (I was only able to check low ranges since the F2 fuse is blown, so I can't measure large current for the moment).
the different buttons (range, min max etc) seem to work also correctly

[saturation]

Chances are the rotary switch contacts are dirty.  If disassembly and cleaning works then add deoxit cleaner and shield to protect it and that should hold for many years.

[Aldobrandi]

So I took my meter apart to clean the contacts (range switch, screen and piezo contacts) and I realized that the clicky sound comes from the piezo itself whenever the screen comes on, i.e. when the meter is first turned on and any time you switch from normal to 4 1/2 mode and then back to normal mode. Has anybody else ever experienced something similar ?

[retiredcaps]

I purchased second hand fluke multimeter 87-III.
I just received it and noticed the following thing:

When I turn ON the fluke, on the AC Voltage measurement, the multimeter makes 2 small popping (or clicking) noises that come from the inside. it is not loud, similar to a small relay being activated.

I got a Fluke 85 III for fairly cheap off ebay because the seller could not spell Fluke properly and I was the only bidder over the 7 day auction.

When I first received it, I put in a low voltage (it measured about 6.6V) 9V battery and the multimeter clicked, clicked and clicked.  Then I put in a fresh 9V battery and it worked.  If I listen very closely, I get the same 2 quick clicks as your 87 III.

I also have to replace the 11A fuse (F2) because it is blown. Hopefully no damages happened to this fluke with a high current.

I hate sellers who write "everything works perfectly" and once you receive the item, there is a blown fuse.  If Fluke fuses weren't so bloody expensive and ebay sellers didn't ripoff Canadians in shipping charges, then it would be a different story.

[ModemHead]

I have had a first-generation 87 since whenever it came out (20+ yrs?), and I never noticed that it clicks twice when you turn it on, but it surely does.  Learn something new everyday.

... I also have to replace the 11A fuse (F2) because it is blown. Hopefully no damages happened to this fluke with a high current...

I have replaced a number of blown 11A or 15A fuses in eBay Flukes and never found any further damages from over-current.

[EEVblog]

I have had a first-generation 87 since whenever it came out (20+ yrs?), and I never noticed that it clicks twice when you turn it on, but it surely does.  Learn something new everyday.

And it's got an "ultrasonic" data output mode too.
Always wondered if it's actually useful, but never bothered to actually capture and decode it.

Dave.

[ModemHead]

I have had a first-generation 87 since whenever it came out (20+ yrs?), and I never noticed that it clicks twice when you turn it on, but it surely does.  Learn something new everyday.

And it's got an "ultrasonic" data output mode too.
Always wondered if it's actually useful, but never bothered to actually capture and decode it.

Dave.

Yes it will make a lot of noise if you turn that on.  As far as I know, Fluke never sold anything that would interface with it.  I did once run into someone's project on the net that used an ultrasonic transducer to pick it up and decode it.

Edit:
Found it (PDF): http://www.circuitmaestro.com/Projects/DataHolster/DataHolster.pdf

It was just a Radio Shack microphone...

[jcpx]

Thanks everybody for your feedbacks.

It seems then that the clicking noises are common to the old generation fluke multimeters.
Seems everything is ok with my acquisition! 

Waiting for the fuse to be delivered and I'm back on track!!

See you.

[001]

Sorry for necrosting 

But what about fluke 87 benefits in 2017?
So model is 29 years old but still high priced 

Most of revolucionary features for 1988 now avaliable in $40 range gear

[EEVblog]

But what about fluke 87 benefits in 2017?
So model is 29 years old but still high priced 
Most of revolucionary features for 1988 now avaliable in $40 range gear

Yeah, but people trust the Fluke 87.

[001]

But what about fluke 87 benefits in 2017?
So model is 29 years old but still high priced 
Most of revolucionary features for 1988 now avaliable in $40 range gear

Yeah, but people trust the Fluke 87.

I.e. it is  no more when a sort of fetish now, isn't it? (Sorry for my english, but I hope You can understand me, thanx)

I pick one for me at occasional sale. Works great but it is bulky and not so speedy as described here

[mikeselectricstuff]

But what about fluke 87 benefits in 2017?
So model is 29 years old but still high priced 
Most of revolucionary features for 1988 now avaliable in $40 range gear

Yeah, but people trust the Fluke 87.

I've had an 87 in daily use for over 20 years  - would today's $40 units last that long ?

[ElektroQuark]

If it last 2 years you will have the same profit

[Zhor]

Yep I am thinking to buy one Fluke 87 ...  ( lots of digits on the screen )

And I found several versions of it ...

The First one called  "  Fluke 87 "  Made at 1996 - 1998 .

Then , its another version called as "  Fluke 87 III  "  (provably third generation )

And another one called as "  Fluke 87 V  "    ( The Latin " V " = fifth generation )

Can you in light me ..   about the deferences  between the three versions ?

Does it worth today , to buy the oldest first release ?

Thanks ..

I still use my Fluke 87 first generation, I send it to calibrate march 1995 and I think I did this 2 years after I bought it, so I think first gen was on 1992-1993, I calle it the best gear of work on electronics I have ever buy, it cannot be better

Second best gear for work is my PACE MBT-250 Rework station

[bluey]

I bought my Fluke 87 in 1991. The manual errata dates the original manual as August 1988.

I got it to be a lifetime hobby meter. It was my second multimeter after an analog Radioshack kit meter. It had a dud test lead from the beginning, replaced under warranty. Battery leak corroded battery clip and has been replaced. LCD had fading out problems caused by deteriorating flexible zebra strip. Display works perfectly since that was replaced. Don’t think i’ve ever managed to blow a fuse. “Input alert” beeps if the leads are plugged in the wrong sockets.

The most amazing thing to me is how little has improved in 30 years. Multimeters are much the same size and functionality is not vastly improved. I only miss not having built in thermometer - have a thermometer plug in module for that. Main construction weakness is the three self tapping screws into plastic posts to attach the back, which are still ok because i am careful to keep the screw running in the original grooves.

[EEVblog]

I bought my Fluke 87 in 1991. The manual errata dates the original manual as August 1988.

Yes, I can remember the review in Electronics Australia magazine back in the 80's, I marveled at this wonder of a multimeter!

[Electro Detective]

I bought my Fluke 87 in 1991. The manual errata dates the original manual as August 1988.

I got it to be a lifetime hobby meter. It was my second multimeter after an analog Radioshack kit meter. It had a dud test lead from the beginning, replaced under warranty. Battery leak corroded battery clip and has been replaced. LCD had fading out problems caused by deteriorating flexible zebra strip. Display works perfectly since that was replaced. Don’t think i’ve ever managed to blow a fuse. “Input alert” beeps if the leads are plugged in the wrong sockets.

The most amazing thing to me is how little has improved in 30 years. Multimeters are much the same size and functionality is not vastly improved. I only miss not having built in thermometer - have a thermometer plug in module for that.

Main construction weakness is the single self tapping screw into plastic post to attach the back, which is still ok because i am careful to keep the screw running in the original groove.

If the screw in posts are not cracked yet  (like mine are  )  you'll be fine

Otherwise if they are cracked or snapped, the meter has lost it's ability to contain any serious pops in your hand
and no better than a dropped cheap plastic toy

the only quick fix afaik without stuffing about with glues, epoxies and tech prayer,
is to tape a up the sides (doubled up for more strength) and put back in the holster, as in the 87V photo below which my 87-1 also has, 
or go ugly with cable ties
 
Not great or pretty, but quick n easy to do, and may help keep the meter intact on a bad drop too
fwiw peel off tape carefully and reuse for battery swaps
 

[bluey]

For the nostalgic, original Fluke 80 Series brochures: (the files were too big to post directly)

https://photos.app.goo.gl/4F1GfDfYBDxCfN956

The 2 page one is copyrighted 1990.

Radio Electronics November 1988 has Fluke 80 series in “New Products”.
https://archive.org/details/radio_electronics_1988-11/mode/2up

Electronics Australia April 1989 has some interesting history.
50 year anniversary issue has reprint of the April 1939 edition. Page 80 has an article on the next 50 years. Fluke 87 is in an ad on page 211.
https://archive.org/stream/EA1989/EA%201989-04%20April#page/n81/mode/2up

Electronics Australia June 1990 has an excellent article on choosing a DMM on page 160 - describes the theory and operation of DMM.
https://archive.org/stream/EA1990/EA%201990-06%20June#page/n159/mode/2up

[bluey]

Electronics Australia July 1989 page 26 has review of Fluke 85, not 87.

https://archive.org/stream/EA1989/EA%201989-07%20July#page/n23/mode/2up

"We don't have access to a calibration lab facility, so we weren't really able to give the mode 85 a rigorous calibration check."

[bluey]

Fluke 87 plastic quick reference card.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/CXhHMZboJKdydBYA8

[Electro Detective]

    Thanks bluey

87-1 still rocks, if I had to flog one of the two I'd sell the 87V first

...and get better money for it 

[bluey]

87-1 still rocks, if I had to flog one of the two I'd sell the 87V first

So according to the 87-V manual, the 87-V doesn't have the self diagnostics that the 87-I has.  Why would they delete a feature like that???

I presume that a valid self test 1k ohm resistance value implies that the voltmeter and constant current generator are both working properly (or both completely wrong in sync - unlikely).

[Electro Detective]

Not sure on that, maybe the 87V has that tool less software calibration thing (?) and or operates differently ?

Have to hang for someone who knows better as it's been a while since I looked into the innards and differences on meters,
they've been working great and the batteries last ages, so no reason

I'll have to score an 87-111 too one day to complete the 87x set,
and confuse myself more   

 

[bluey]

I don't ever remember seeing an 87-II anywhere, although I guess maybe there was one at one point, at least internally at Fluke?

Reading the service manuals, the first manual version is dated 1989-1996 (covers 1988-presume 1996 models). The second version is dated 1997, and applies to models marked front and back with "CAT III 1000V" on the top and bottom case. I presume this is the unlabelled 87-II CAT III compliant. (The first version is just marked "1000V", and has 600V fuses.)

http://assets.fluke.com/manuals/83_85_87smeng0500.pdf

The 87-II service manual is named "838587_1000_smeng0000.pdf". I presume i got the link from here somewhere but can't find it now.
(Found a source https://xdevs.com/doc/Fluke/83_1000_smeng0000.pdf )

87-II [vs 87-I] specifications are very similar - difference listed below (the ones I could find):
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
VAC accuracy 400V 5kHz-20kHz unspecified [+/-(2% + 20)]
VAC accuracy 1000V 1kHz-5kHz unspecified [+/-(2% + 4)]

ohms accuracy 400ohms +/- (0.2% + 2) ** using REL [+/- (0.2% + 1)]

Capacitance accuracy 5.0 microF +/- 1.9% +3 [+/- (1% +3)]

mA AC and DC 40mA nad 400mA burden voltage typical 1.8mV/mA [1.6mV/mA]

typical ohms short circuit current:
400 ohms 200 microA [700 microA]
4k ohms 80 microA [170 microA]
40k ohms 12 microA [20 microA]
400k ohms 1.4 microA [2 microA]

ohms short circuit current <200 microA [<500 microA]

diode test short circuit current typical 0.6mA [1.0mA]

Fuses:
mA or microA 44/100A 1000V FAST [1A 600V FAST]
A 11A 1000V FAST [15A 600V FAST]

Safety protection class: IEC 1010-1 1000V, CAT III; UL3111; TUV EN61010-1; CSA C22.216 1010.1 [Class II per IEC348, ISA-DS82,  UL1244]

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

80 Series III service information is dated April 1998-2002. Specifications look the same as presumed series II which only lasted about a year.

It looks like all models can verify against 1k ohm internal resistance (R43 metal film 1k 0.1% resistor- F1 fuse test result: 1000+/-5) by connecting V/ohm/diode input to microA/mA input (upper half). In the 87-I service manual, this is described under "Performance Tests". For the others it is described as a "F1 fuse test". Somewhere I read that the 1k ohm resistor is a high precision resistor, therefore if the number is correct it implies that the voltmeter and constant current generator are working to spec.