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Inside the new Korad KA3305P linear PSU
Gall:
I'd like to reprogram just to make the interface more usable. I personally don't like the way the voltage is set by individual digits.
Also, is it true that the display shows the preset voltage/current, not the actual one?
I don't want to reflash the firmware, I want to replace the whole MCU chip. Anything that is pin-compatible would fit, and there are not so many possibilities. Could you please identify the power, XTAL and SPI (to the DAC) pins?
I'm I right that the controller board is not the same as display board? That is, could one replace the whole board leaving the original display and controls in place?
Messtechniker:
--- Quote from: torch on October 20, 2015, 01:42:12 pm ---Does it include the capability of writing a custom driver for an unknown device? Can it send data alone to the serial port without a CR or LF?
--- End quote ---
As to custom drivers one would have to write a dll. Something which is beyond my capabilities.
But as long as the target unit is responsive through its serial interface then you have many options with "Profilab Expert".
Provided the protocol is known resp. given in the manual. As to doing without CR and LF: I would simply have to find out.
Yours Messtechniker
torch:
--- Quote from: Gall on October 20, 2015, 06:01:07 pm ---I'd like to reprogram just to make the interface more usable. I personally don't like the way the voltage is set by individual digits.
--- End quote ---
I'm not sure you understand that part correctly. The granularity is variable by digit, however, it increments/decrements the next leftmost digit after 9. So you can twirl the knob from 0v to 31 volts by single volts, tenths of a volt or hundredths of a volt depending on what you need to do. Or you can go from 0 to 30 volts in 3 steps if you set the tens digit to flashing.
That said, it won't let you go past 31 volts, so if you started at 1.01v and adjusted by tens of volts, the maximum would be 21.01v. You would have to use a different granularity to go higher. If you then switched to single volts, you could go up to 30.01 volts. From there you could switch to tenths and go up to 30.91v.
I can do a little video if the above is still confusing.
For what I'm doing, I don't generally need to adjust hundredths of a volt. I just leave the hundredths digit at 0 and set the granularity at tenths (the granularity remains set unless changed). Changing the voltage is a matter of tapping the channel button once and twirling the volts dial. Similarly, tap the channel button twice and twirl the current dial.
--- Quote ---Also, is it true that the display shows the preset voltage/current, not the actual one?
--- End quote ---
Only true until the output is turned On. Once the output is turned on, the display changes from showing the presets to showing the actual output (EXCEPT in serial mode, when the display shows 00.00 when outputs are Off and not being actively adjusted -- that's the minor bug I mentioned earlier.)
--- Quote ---I don't want to reflash the firmware, I want to replace the whole MCU chip. Anything that is pin-compatible would fit, and there are not so many possibilities. Could you please identify the power, XTAL and SPI (to the DAC) pins?
--- End quote ---
Speak slowly and use small words! I will attempt to follow directions, but I'm an old dog trying to learn new tricks. My last quarter century was spent riding a firetruck, not sitting at an EE bench: "Me strong like bull. And smart -- Like freight train."
--- Quote ---I'm I right that the controller board is not the same as display board? That is, could one replace the whole board leaving the original display and controls in place?
--- End quote ---
Yes, that is correct. There is a 20(?) pin header between the boards as well as a ribbon cable. The outputs are on the control board and the display/knob board sits above those in front of the control board.
[/quote]
Gall:
--- Quote from: torch on October 20, 2015, 07:19:53 pm ---I'm not sure you understand that part correctly. The granularity is variable by digit, however, it increments/decrements the next leftmost digit after 9. So you can twirl the knob from 0v to 31 volts by single volts, tenths of a volt or hundredths of a volt depending on what you need to do. Or you can go from 0 to 30 volts in 3 steps if you set the tens digit to flashing.
--- End quote ---
Yes, that's exactly how I understood that. I think the smaller KD3005P has exactly the same control. I'd like to change the granularity by rotating the knob while pressing it.
And I'd like to make it blink faster.
--- Quote ---
--- Quote ---I'm I right that the controller board is not the same as display board? That is, could one replace the whole board leaving the original display and controls in place?
--- End quote ---
Yes, that is correct. There is a 20(?) pin header between the boards as well as a ribbon cable. The outputs are on the control board and the display/knob board sits above those in front of the control board.
--- End quote ---
Fine! Thank you! In the worst case I'll just replace the whole board.
I wonder if this ribbon cable should have been shielded...
torch:
--- Quote from: Gall on October 20, 2015, 08:12:34 pm ---I'd like to change the granularity by rotating the knob while pressing it.
--- End quote ---
Well you do press and release the knob to change the granularity. Each press moves the granularity one digit to the right. However, if you press and hold the knob then you lock/unlock the keyboard (volts) or turn the beep on/off (amps).
--- Quote ---I'm I right that the controller board is not the same as display board? That is, could one replace the whole board leaving the original display and controls in place?
--- End quote ---
--- Quote ---I wonder if this ribbon cable should have been shielded...
--- End quote ---
Why? I'm not saying you are wrong, I just don't understand what makes you suspect that. I don't think there is a lot of HF radiation from either board, it's a linear supply and the regulation seems to be at the other end of the PSU.
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