Is there a better power supply option for $700?

[JJ_023]

I am doing some research into purchasing a power supply.  I've narrowed it down to Instek GPP-4323 (LAN)

I need a power supply for basic general needs and for learning basic electronics stuff.  Some of the uses would be for.

Working with microcontrollers Arduino etc.
Working on current sensing and voltage sensing circuits.
Working with and designing operational amplifier circuits.
Charging all sorts of batteries.
Working with smaller servomotors.
General electronic needs.
Repair work with voltage injection etc.


My reasons for selecting this particular power supply.

I like GW Instek.
Seems to have decent specifications.
Low ripple.
Decent response time.
Is able to function as a load (as far as I understand although it is limited in capacity)
Seems to have a pretty decent user interface and layout with extra buttons for convenience.

I am looking for the community's help in making this decision.   Also would love to hear from anybody that has actually used this particular power supply and there experiences.

I am looking primarily for something new not used off of eBay.

This power supply is probably way overkill for the needs that I have but I believe in buy once cry once approach to purchases.

If there is something in this particular price range that is better I would love to hear about that as well.

I would like to thank everyone in advance that contributes to this post.

Thank you.

[mawyatt]

Getting a good quality PS for development work is a good decision, many folks don't and suffer the consequences!!

The GPP-4323 is an excellent choice, we have one and use it. Having 4 controllable outputs is a plus in many uses, and the EL is also a nice somewhat unique feature is this price range. This supply is accurate, stable, WO overshoot on Startup and Stop/Unplug, so good to use with sensitive low voltage circuits.

We also have the SPD3303X (have 3), however these don't have 4 outputs, and only 2 are fully controllable. This is a good supply for the $, but lacks the features of the higher $ GPP-4323. Siglent has introduced a new PS series, but no reviews yet, and availability uncertain.

Best,

[PlainName]

If I had that money to spend on a PSU, I'd have no problem purchasing another EEZ BB3:

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/eez-h25005-a-possible-successor-of-eez-h24005-programmable-power-supply/msg1621891/#msg1621891

[JJ_023]

Getting a good quality PS for development work is a good decision, many folks don't and suffer the consequences!!

The GPP-4323 is an excellent choice, we have one and use it. Having 4 controllable outputs is a plus in many uses, and the EL is also a nice somewhat unique feature is this price range. This supply is accurate, stable, WO overshoot on Startup and Stop/Unplug, so good to use with sensitive low voltage circuits.

We also have the SPD3303X (have 3), however these don't have 4 outputs, and only 2 are fully controllable. This is a good supply for the $, but lacks the features of the higher $ GPP-4323. Siglent has introduced a new PS series, but no reviews yet, and availability uncertain.

Best,

Thank you for such a detailed response.  I had a few follow-up questions.  The load feature,  what is the maximum that it can be used for?  Would it handle something like 12 V at 3 A? 

What is something that you dislike about this power supply?

[JJ_023]

If I had that money to spend on a PSU, I'd have no problem purchasing another EEZ BB3:

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/eez-h25005-a-possible-successor-of-eez-h24005-programmable-power-supply/msg1621891/#msg1621891

Thank you for the recommendation.  I tried researching the price on Google.  It seems like a very convoluted buying experience.  Also it's made in Croatia so how is warranty work going to work?

I'm sure it's a wonderful unit with better specs but just not for me.

[Randy222]

I not a big fan of buying more than what you actually need. Spending +$200 on extra features you will likley never use, is $200 you could use elsewhere (tools, meters, whatever).

So is the question really just "Can I get better than a GPP-4323 in my budget of $700?" ?

Define the needs, go from there. The Mastech tri-output box (old) on my desk has let me do lots of small projects from a PSU view, non-precise PSU at that. 2 buttons and 4 dials, that's all it has.

Some of the items listed (op amps, etc) might be in ckt's that require a precision voltage reference, but you get that from an IC, less so from a PSU.

I always think of PSU's as the coarse dial into any ckt that uses power, and then the ckt itself has the IC's needed to create precision.

[JJ_023]

I not a big fan of buying more than what you actually need. Spending +$200 on extra features you will likley never use, is $200 you could use elsewhere (tools, meters, whatever).

So is the question really just "Can I get better than a GPP-4323 in my budget of $700?" ?

Define the needs, go from there. The Mastech tri-output box (old) on my desk has let me do lots of small projects from a PSU view, non-precise PSU at that. 2 buttons and 4 dials, that's all it has.

Some of the items listed (op amps, etc) might be in ckt's that require a precision voltage reference, but you get that from an IC, less so from a PSU.

I always think of PSU's as the coarse dial into any ckt that uses power, and then the ckt itself has the IC's needed to create precision.

Thank you for your response and thoughts.  To answer your question directly, YES, Can I get better than a GPP-4323 in my budget of $700?

I agree that I could do with less.   I agree with some of your other statements. 

The one place where I disagree is in our tool philosophies.  I have acquired a lot of tools over the years.  One thing that I learned is that you can make do with something less and invest into other things that might be useful that will help you along in terms of whatever. However in the long run as your finances and/or your skill set and knowledge expand you always have a need for the better tool.  The cost of selling a cheap tool and then buying a more expensive tool oftentimes ends up costing more in the long run.

I have used every single 1 of my tools to make money with it at one point or another, so I prefer just to buy something decent from the get-go.

I seen so many people start with either a cheap welder, cheap meter, cheap C&C whatever it is and then regret it down the road. 

Now if you have a limited budget and you are just starting out I think your advice is very sound and makes a lot of sense not only in terms of electronics but business in general.

[Jeroen3]

The GPP-4323 is very decent. The load function can be very useful. And it's very responsive on the communication ports.
It measures very accurately! And the unit also offers paralleling/serialling without external wiring, which can be useful.

GW instek makes decent quality. I would recommend this supply!

The only drawback is that ethernet is not standard, and you can't read the channel numbers when you're looking from high because of the indent. (they are not 1-2-3-4)

[JJ_023]

The only drawback is that ethernet is not standard, and you can't read the channel numbers when you're looking from high because of the indent. (they are not 1-2-3-4)

Thank you for your response.  Could you clarify this statement.  I am not getting the gist of it.

[ArcticGeek]

@JJ_023

The GPP-4323 is a decent supply but it does have its drawbacks.  For these reasons I recently sold mine after about a year and got a different unit.

The things I am referring to might seem petty, but I found them very annoying.  The things I don't like about the GPP-4323 are:

1.  The screen is really too small for display all 4 channels at once.  If you have it directly in front of you, its okay.  But I have my power supply on the shelf above my bench, and I find it very difficult to read all of the settings for all of the channels because the font is so small.  I actually sent an email to GW-Instek requesting a FW update that made the font a bit larger and possibly removed other things in the window such as OVP and OCP....and they basically were not interested.

2.  The layout of the binding posts on the front panel is very ackward for me to get used to.  From a very early age I learned to read from left to right and that you count 1,2,3,4 in that order.  Instek decided on this goofy arrangement of Channel 4-1-2-3 on the front panel makes sense.  I could never get used to this and it was always confusing.

3.  Related to #2 above, the screen which shows each channel's status is shown as channel 1 and 2 on the top, and channels 4 and 3 on the bottom (in that order).  Again, I find this very annoying because I'm accustomed to counting 1-2-3-4 (reading from left to right).

4.  The binding posts are not really color coded and marked very well.  Most mfgrs put a red ring around the positive and black ring on the negative binding post at the end of the binding post.  Instek only has the small red and black band BEHIND the binding posts, and I found myself spending way too much time just to make sure I have the right polarity and connected to the right set of binding posts.

As others have mentioned, this unit has good specs and built well, but these user interface issues mentioned above became a real problem for me.  If you don't think these issues would bother you, this unit is pretty good.

In case you are wondering, I purchased a Rigol DP932E as a replacement for the Instek unit, and added the $100 high-res option (although I think that is hackable now).  Although it's only 3 channel, I find that the user interface is much more friendly than the Instek and it's much easier/quicker to connect my leads and read the current/voltage of all the channels.

Just my opinion for what its worth.  Good luck in your decision.

[jjoonathan]

I went a different path and fixed the channel coloring on the GPP-4323 with markers. Two years later, I still love this little supply!

[flano]

I purchased a GPP-4323 and it worked ok for a couple of days and then stopped booting. I received a replacement unit from Element 14 and straight out of the box did the same thing. Both units were sent back to Element 14 and then to GW Instek and were unable to be repaired. I wasn't provided any further info on the fault.

Apart from the fault, I liked the GPP-4323, four outputs and good accuracy, but wasn't willing to try my luck with a third unit.

I ended up buying a DP932E and I'm very happy with it. Touch screen is nice.

Hope this helps you in your decision.

Mike. VK4MWL.

[points2]

hi JJ_023,

I am doing some research into purchasing a power supply.  I've narrowed it down to Instek GPP-4323 (LAN)

this one ? => https://eleshop.eu/gw-instek-gpp-4323-programmable-power-supply.html
nice gear...

I need a power supply for basic general needs and for learning basic electronics stuff.

Honestly, I don't have any benchtop PS, because I'm dealing with voltages below 5VDC at PCB level.
So,
- for "learning basic electronics stuff" => I can't see the point to use any benchtop PS given their noise. I prefer my current setup : various SMPS (dead cheap), to deliver 3.3 / 5 / 9VDC => followed by a linear module (based on LT3045), with adj. Vout. With that, I get dead clean Vout thanks to the linear module (Vajd, thus, I can get what I need...). ICs need that kind of PS : no ripple, and able to match their transients.
- for "basic general needs" => having a couple of Meanwell (@ 25eur each), that deliver high A & 1 or 2 output voltage => far enough, & cheap vs any benchtop PS
A "all-in-one" PS for gen.purpose (=apple) AND investigations at PCB level (=caviar  ) => it doesn't exist

If you need to "learn" about electronics (that what you says ; given that I'm a noob although I'm climbing the learning curve... a never ending story that hobby  ),
please explain what instrument you have... there is maybe a better investment to do prior to a costly PS (VNA / SA / soldiering station / microscope / ... many ways to spend money & learn about EE).
My 2 cents.

PS : just my view vs PS, I'm a nice guy, don't bite please ! 

[Antonio90]

I have a GW Instek, a GPD-4303S. It works quite well as a psu, reasonably precise, stable, and reliable OCP and OVP, but cannot show the settings of more than two channels at once on the screen, and you have to turn on/of all channels at once. This last flaw is, by far, the worst.

If I were to buy another PSU right now, it would probably be the one you are considering. There is custom firmware in this forum for the GPP, which improves readback speed, and accuracy? Can't recall right now.

I would have a look at AIM-TTI supplies. They are also really precise, with sense terminals on the front, and simple interfaces. More expensive for the same features, and I don't think you will get two quadrant supplies for that budget outside of the GPP. The MX series from TTI look quite nice though.

[JJ_023]

@JJ_023

The GPP-4323 is a decent supply but it does have its drawbacks.  For these reasons I recently sold mine after about a year and got a different unit.

The things I am referring to might seem petty, but I found them very annoying.  The things I don't like about the GPP-4323 are:

1.  The screen is really too small for display all 4 channels at once.  If you have it directly in front of you, its okay.  But I have my power supply on the shelf above my bench, and I find it very difficult to read all of the settings for all of the channels because the font is so small.  I actually sent an email to GW-Instek requesting a FW update that made the font a bit larger and possibly removed other things in the window such as OVP and OCP....and they basically were not interested.

2.  The layout of the binding posts on the front panel is very ackward for me to get used to.  From a very early age I learned to read from left to right and that you count 1,2,3,4 in that order.  Instek decided on this goofy arrangement of Channel 4-1-2-3 on the front panel makes sense.  I could never get used to this and it was always confusing.

3.  Related to #2 above, the screen which shows each channel's status is shown as channel 1 and 2 on the top, and channels 4 and 3 on the bottom (in that order).  Again, I find this very annoying because I'm accustomed to counting 1-2-3-4 (reading from left to right).

4.  The binding posts are not really color coded and marked very well.  Most mfgrs put a red ring around the positive and black ring on the negative binding post at the end of the binding post.  Instek only has the small red and black band BEHIND the binding posts, and I found myself spending way too much time just to make sure I have the right polarity and connected to the right set of binding posts.

As others have mentioned, this unit has good specs and built well, but these user interface issues mentioned above became a real problem for me.  If you don't think these issues would bother you, this unit is pretty good.

In case you are wondering, I purchased a Rigol DP932E as a replacement for the Instek unit, and added the $100 high-res option (although I think that is hackable now).  Although it's only 3 channel, I find that the user interface is much more friendly than the Instek and it's much easier/quicker to connect my leads and read the current/voltage of all the channels.

Just my opinion for what its worth.  Good luck in your decision.

Thank you for such an elaborate response.  When it comes to personal preferences I don't think anything is petty.

1.  I can't really comment on the screen size because I haven't seen this particular unit in person.  Usually that sort of stuff won't bother me as much.  I think you can run it off the PC.  Is this not the case? 

I'm also surprised that some of the talented people on this forum that have this particular supply have not figured out a way to adjust the font size.

2.  I agree that is a pretty stupid way of doing it.

3.  This is also pretty stupid, I totally agree.  Do they issue firmware updates? If so how often?

4.  This also doesn't make much sense however I would probably solve that with a sharpie.  Don't laugh.

I have thought about the Rigol seems like a decent unit.    Is there anything about the Rigol that you don't like and bothers you as well?  Why is the DP932E 195W and the DP932A 210W.  I thought it is basically the same unit that's why it is upgradable.

[JJ_023]

I went a different path and fixed the channel coloring on the GPP-4323 with markers. Two years later, I still love this little supply!

Thank you for that.  It's not a bad idea but I am fairly familiar with industrial paint and paint composites.  Markal sells a paint marker specifically for oily metal that basically writes on anything and is very tenacious.  Sometimes it's difficult to get off even with acetone.  The downside is it takes a little bit of time for it to dry which makes it very prone to smearing.  Long time being roughly 5 minutes.

[JJ_023]

I purchased a GPP-4323 and it worked ok for a couple of days and then stopped booting. I received a replacement unit from Element 14 and straight out of the box did the same thing. Both units were sent back to Element 14 and then to GW Instek and were unable to be repaired. I wasn't provided any further info on the fault.

Apart from the fault, I liked the GPP-4323, four outputs and good accuracy, but wasn't willing to try my luck with a third unit.

I ended up buying a DP932E and I'm very happy with it. Touch screen is nice.

Hope this helps you in your decision.

Mike. VK4MWL.

Thank you for the data point.  What is something that you don't like about the Rigol?  I've considered that unit as well.

[JJ_023]

hi JJ_023,

I am doing some research into purchasing a power supply.  I've narrowed it down to Instek GPP-4323 (LAN)

this one ? => https://eleshop.eu/gw-instek-gpp-4323-programmable-power-supply.html
nice gear...

I need a power supply for basic general needs and for learning basic electronics stuff.

Honestly, I don't have any benchtop PS, because I'm dealing with voltages below 5VDC at PCB level.
So,
- for "learning basic electronics stuff" => I can't see the point to use any benchtop PS given their noise. I prefer my current setup : various SMPS (dead cheap), to deliver 3.3 / 5 / 9VDC => followed by a linear module (based on LT3045), with adj. Vout. With that, I get dead clean Vout thanks to the linear module (Vajd, thus, I can get what I need...). ICs need that kind of PS : no ripple, and able to match their transients.
- for "basic general needs" => having a couple of Meanwell (@ 25eur each), that deliver high A & 1 or 2 output voltage => far enough, & cheap vs any benchtop PS
A "all-in-one" PS for gen.purpose (=apple) AND investigations at PCB level (=caviar  ) => it doesn't exist

If you need to "learn" about electronics (that what you says ; given that I'm a noob although I'm climbing the learning curve... a never ending story that hobby  ),
please explain what instrument you have... there is maybe a better investment to do prior to a costly PS (VNA / SA / soldiering station / microscope / ... many ways to spend money & learn about EE).
My 2 cents.

PS : just my view vs PS, I'm a nice guy, don't bite please ! 

You are a nice guy so thanks for the contribution.  That is the exact supply I am referring to in your link.

I understand what you are trying to do with guiding me to possibly a better purchase decision for an overall EE set up.   I am pretty set on my next purchase being a power supply and I would like a fairly decent one. 

Besides EE just being able to charge batteries, utilize a temporary replacement for a broken wall wart I can't find, to testing small servos to troubleshooting, repair with voltage injection and current limiting.

[JJ_023]

I have a GW Instek, a GPD-4303S. It works quite well as a psu, reasonably precise, stable, and reliable OCP and OVP, but cannot show the settings of more than two channels at once on the screen, and you have to turn on/of all channels at once. This last flaw is, by far, the worst.

If I were to buy another PSU right now, it would probably be the one you are considering. There is custom firmware in this forum for the GPP, which improves readback speed, and accuracy? Can't recall right now.

I would have a look at AIM-TTI supplies. They are also really precise, with sense terminals on the front, and simple interfaces. More expensive for the same features, and I don't think you will get two quadrant supplies for that budget outside of the GPP. The MX series from TTI look quite nice though.

Thank you for taking the time to respond.  Not being able to show more than 2 channels at the same time might be a nuisance in certain occasions I don't particularly see that as that big of a nuisance.  Can you control this on a PC screen?

If I understand you correctly that is a big PITA.  I see 4 buttons for channels.  What are they for if you can't turn them on and off independently? 

I don't necessarily need the 4 channels but it is an appealing feature.  I am not familiar with that particular brand I will have to do a little bit of research.  Do you have a specific model you would recommend without getting into a different price bracket?

[Veteran68]

If you need to "learn" about electronics (that what you says ; given that I'm a noob although I'm climbing the learning curve... a never ending story that hobby  ),
please explain what instrument you have... there is maybe a better investment to do prior to a costly PS (VNA / SA / soldiering station / microscope / ... many ways to spend money & learn about EE).

I'd have to disagree. After maybe a good DMM (or two, preferably) and a soldering iron, maybe an oscilloscope depending on what you do, I'd consider a bench PSU to be the next must-have for any aspiring hobbyist. It's one of my most used and useful tools. I use it way more than my scopes. In fact I often use more than one at a time. My Siglent 3303X has 3 channels but can only output 3.2A on a single channel. I can parallel two channels to get 6A, but then that takes both variable channels and leaves me with a 3rd channel that can only do 2.5v/3v/5v.

Why do I sometimes need more than 3A? Or even 6A? I work on laptops and sometimes need to power the laptop from a bench supply. Most modern laptops take 20V3A at a minimum for a simple business laptop, and up to 10-12A for workstation or gaming laptops (180-240W). So I have a 30V10A supply wired up with a universal power plug set that I can use to power a laptop or pretty much any consumer device up to 30V10A.

I also have a Tekpower 30V5A linear PSU that I don't really use on the bench anymore but will grab and take with me if I need a PSU somewhere else.

Maybe if all you do is simple microcontroller breadboard designs that could basically get away with a very low voltage/amp supply or even a battery pack or two, then I could concede the point. But if you do any sort of repair or troubleshooting of consumer electronics, you're going to need more than an ultra-low power supply pretty quickly.

[zepto]

I am looking primarily for something new not used off of eBay.

I know that this statement was written in bold, but I would urge you to reconsider. High quality used power supplies are fairly abundant in the USA.

[points2]

hi JJ_023,
sorry about my previous post... 
"Electronic" is a like a so large field of grass, that people who deal with issue "x", can't see people who deal with issue "y" over the horizon... cause this field is so so large

You are a nice guy so thanks for the contribution.  That is the exact supply I am referring to in your link.

I'm pretty sure that, b4 posting, you've "plowed" (direct translation of french slang, not sure it is the right equivalent in english, but you see what I mean  ) the web to find the product that fits your needs (x ouputs / A @ output / V range etc....), reviews here & there to get info vs reliability (given the price & given it is a heavy duty device, reliability over 3yr min is a minimum.
The product you find has a load function => cool !

Besides EE just being able to charge batteries, utilize a temporary replacement for a broken wall wart I can't find, to testing small servos to troubleshooting, repair with voltage injection and current limiting.

I see what you mean, no brainer, fine ! 

[jjoonathan]

Thank you for that.  It's not a bad idea but I am fairly familiar with industrial paint and paint composites.  Markal sells a paint marker specifically for oily metal that basically writes on anything and is very tenacious.  Sometimes it's difficult to get off even with acetone.  The downside is it takes a little bit of time for it to dry which makes it very prone to smearing.  Long time being roughly 5 minutes.

Nice! I'll file that away, it sounds useful.

[2N3055]

One thing is that you do need proper lab psu.  More than one, isolated from each other.
Other thing is what kind.
You won't need network connected smart PSU most of the time.
Most of the time simple analog one with potentiometers is good enough.
You can have several single channel ones instead of one multi channel.
You want a smart one with LAN and SCPI only if you want to write scripts to automate it.

Also some multi channel PSU have weird channel combinations. Instek GPP-4323 has 2 channels with full capacity but 15V and 5 V have only 1 A capacity. Some will argue that it would be more useful to have 3 full capability channels instead..

It all depends on your needs.

[points2]

hi Veteran68,

I'd have to disagree....

as I said on my previous post, "electronic" is a very wide field...
but you said is more "electricity" stuff than "electronics"
to me, "electronics" relates to "PCB level", thus V=<3.3VDC roughly...
I'm a young player in EE, but from start I found strange that people dealing with EE deal with V>5VDC (OCXO with Vin=12VDC are over the place, but are old-stuff).
stuff.

Maybe if all you do is simple microcontroller breadboard designs that could basically get away with a very low voltage/amp supply or even a battery pack or two, then I could concede the point. But if you do any sort of repair or troubleshooting of consumer electronics, you're going to need more than an ultra-low power supply pretty quickly.

- breadboard => noise => no go
- battery as PS : => noise & sluggish vs transients => no go
- consumer electronics => 5/9/12V input (box), but then, inside the box > you got the input V down-step to match the PCB level => 3.3V or less... and so so..

Sorry about all my blabla
I just pointed out that "PCB level" is fun because it's  and then you overcome the issue => go to the next  ... I love that.... 

To anyone, enjoy '24 ! lot of fun etc ! 

[JJ_023]

I am looking primarily for something new not used off of eBay.

I know that this statement was written in bold, but I would urge you to reconsider. High quality used power supplies are fairly abundant in the USA.

I have honestly tried that route.  Either I don't feel comfortable about the device or it's in such bad shape that cosmetically it would irk me.  I know it's silly coming from a guy who would sharpie red and black on the outputs of a brand-new unit. 

Maybe I am just not good sourcing used stuff but every time I look on eBay anything decent is maybe $200 cheaper than buying it brand-new.  If I could get that unit $150 in good shape I would gladly risk it.  But I never come across those types of deals.  I also don't spend hours every day looking for a good deal to pop up so that's probably the reason why. 

[JJ_023]

One thing is that you do need proper lab psu.  More than one, isolated from each other.
Other thing is what kind.
You won't need network connected smart PSU most of the time.
Most of the time simple analog one with potentiometers is good enough.
You can have several single channel ones instead of one multi channel.
You want a smart one with LAN and SCPI only if you want to write scripts to automate it.

Also some multi channel PSU have weird channel combinations. Instek GPP-4323 has 2 channels with full capacity but 15V and 5 V have only 1 A capacity. Some will argue that it would be more useful to have 3 full capability channels instead..

It all depends on your needs.

Thank you for chiming in, all of these are very valid points.  Seems like you always need more than 1 of everything when it comes to serious things.  I thought about getting several single power supplies.  I think I would easily exceed the $700 mark if I bought 3 that had similar specifications to the one I am considering or the Rigol. 

[tautech]

Although we don’t yet have a release date, this might be of interest if you’re not in a hurry:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/new-siglent-spd4000x-series-power-supply/

[JJ_023]

Although we don’t yet have a release date, this might be of interest if you’re not in a hurry:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/new-siglent-spd4000x-series-power-supply/

It looks like it might be interesting for sure.  I am not in a hurry however who knows when this might come out.  I guess if the timing is right I would love to consider it.  What is the price of this unit from the latest rumor mill?

On a different note I asked you at one point in a previous post about possibly paralleling or in series several Siglent power supplies together.  You said you would check with the company and get back on some of the technical details if it's possible.  Did you by any chance find anything out?

[tautech]

Although we don’t yet have a release date, this might be of interest if you’re not in a hurry:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/new-siglent-spd4000x-series-power-supply/

It looks like it might be interesting for sure.  I am not in a hurry however who knows when this might come out.  I guess if the timing is right I would love to consider it.  What is the price of this unit from the latest rumor mill?

On a different note I asked you at one point in a previous post about possibly paralleling or in series several Siglent power supplies together.  You said you would check with the company and get back on some of the technical details if it's possible.  Did you by any chance find anything out?

Oh you can be sure I’ve enquired about SPD4kX however Siglent aren’t ready to share anything about it yet. 

Series mode with multiple units is no problem up to the max of 500V above mains ground but offhand I can’t offer any info about Parallel mode with multiple units.
Sorry on hols for another couple weeks.

[JJ_023]

Although we don’t yet have a release date, this might be of interest if you’re not in a hurry:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/new-siglent-spd4000x-series-power-supply/

It looks like it might be interesting for sure.  I am not in a hurry however who knows when this might come out.  I guess if the timing is right I would love to consider it.  What is the price of this unit from the latest rumor mill?

On a different note I asked you at one point in a previous post about possibly paralleling or in series several Siglent power supplies together.  You said you would check with the company and get back on some of the technical details if it's possible.  Did you by any chance find anything out?

Oh you can be sure I’ve enquired about SPD4kX however Siglent aren’t ready to share anything about it yet. 

Series mode with multiple units is no problem up to the max of 500V above mains ground but offhand I can’t offer any info about Parallel mode with multiple units.
Sorry on hols for another couple weeks.

Thank you for making the effort.  Enjoy your holiday. 

[Antonio90]

 

I have a GW Instek, a GPD-4303S. It works quite well as a psu, reasonably precise, stable, and reliable OCP and OVP, but cannot show the settings of more than two channels at once on the screen, and you have to turn on/of all channels at once. This last flaw is, by far, the worst.

If I were to buy another PSU right now, it would probably be the one you are considering. There is custom firmware in this forum for the GPP, which improves readback speed, and accuracy? Can't recall right now.

I would have a look at AIM-TTI supplies. They are also really precise, with sense terminals on the front, and simple interfaces. More expensive for the same features, and I don't think you will get two quadrant supplies for that budget outside of the GPP. The MX series from TTI look quite nice though.

Thank you for taking the time to respond.  Not being able to show more than 2 channels at the same time might be a nuisance in certain occasions I don't particularly see that as that big of a nuisance.  Can you control this on a PC screen?

If I understand you correctly that is a big PITA.  I see 4 buttons for channels.  What are they for if you can't turn them on and off independently? 

I don't necessarily need the 4 channels but it is an appealing feature.  I am not familiar with that particular brand I will have to do a little bit of research.  Do you have a specific model you would recommend without getting into a different price bracket?

The buttons are for selecting which channel is receiving input from the adjustment knobs. About the screen showing only two channels, yeah, it is not too big of a deal, as there is a (rather simple) computer interface. This is all for the GPD I have, the GPP you are considering doesn't have any of those problems. The numbers are not as easy to read though.

I was looking at the  PL303QMD. But just saw in the datasheet that it has no computer interfaces unles you pick the -P version which is much more expensive. The QL355T is already quite a bit more expensive without interfaces.

I don't think there is a better option from TTI at that price bracket, my apologies.

[flano]

Thank you for the data point.  What is something that you don't like about the Rigol?  I've considered that unit as well.

Nothing really. It only has 3 channels vs 4 for the GPP-4323, but that's not an issue for me. GPP-4323 also has an electronic load.

The Rigol does everything I need, very happy.

Mike VK4MWL

[nctnico]

Thank you for the data point.  What is something that you don't like about the Rigol?  I've considered that unit as well.

Nothing really. It only has 3 channels vs 4 for the GPP-4323, but that's not an issue for me. GPP-4323 also has an electronic load.

The Rigol does everything I need, very happy.

IIRC the Rigol 930 series does not have seperate grounds for all channels. This could be problematic in some situations.

[2N3055]

Thank you for the data point.  What is something that you don't like about the Rigol?  I've considered that unit as well.

Nothing really. It only has 3 channels vs 4 for the GPP-4323, but that's not an issue for me. GPP-4323 also has an electronic load.

The Rigol does everything I need, very happy.

IIRC the Rigol 930 series does not have seperate grounds for all channels. This could be problematic in some situations.

900 series actually has all 3 ch isolated. It is DP83x that does not isolate ...

[2N3055]

Battery charging should be left to battery chargers. Battery chargers are cheap and common.

[Pfriemler]

looking forward to buy a PSU, I got stuck on the GWs with load function as well. As a benefit to a well constructed and basically reliable PSU it‘s nice to have an EL, but I really love my Kunkin KP184 as a separate device, not only because it can handle up to 400 watts and 150 volts. Before that, I used some Chinese naked PCBs with fans on it up to 50 watts. I am very glad to leave them behind.
Rigol? did not the 83x series have many odd issues in behaviour and stability?

[JJ_023]

I have a GW Instek, a GPD-4303S. It works quite well as a psu, reasonably precise, stable, and reliable OCP and OVP, but cannot show the settings of more than two channels at once on the screen, and you have to turn on/of all channels at once. This last flaw is, by far, the worst.

If I were to buy another PSU right now, it would probably be the one you are considering. There is custom firmware in this forum for the GPP, which improves readback speed, and accuracy? Can't recall right now.

I would have a look at AIM-TTI supplies. They are also really precise, with sense terminals on the front, and simple interfaces. More expensive for the same features, and I don't think you will get two quadrant supplies for that budget outside of the GPP. The MX series from TTI look quite nice though.

Thank you for taking the time to respond.  Not being able to show more than 2 channels at the same time might be a nuisance in certain occasions I don't particularly see that as that big of a nuisance.  Can you control this on a PC screen?

If I understand you correctly that is a big PITA.  I see 4 buttons for channels.  What are they for if you can't turn them on and off independently? 

I don't necessarily need the 4 channels but it is an appealing feature.  I am not familiar with that particular brand I will have to do a little bit of research.  Do you have a specific model you would recommend without getting into a different price bracket?

The buttons are for selecting which channel is receiving input from the adjustment knobs. About the screen showing only two channels, yeah, it is not too big of a deal, as there is a (rather simple) computer interface. This is all for the GPD I have, the GPP you are considering doesn't have any of those problems. The numbers are not as easy to read though.

I was looking at the  PL303QMD. But just saw in the datasheet that it has no computer interfaces unles you pick the -P version which is much more expensive. The QL355T is already quite a bit more expensive without interfaces.

I don't think there is a better option from TTI at that price bracket, my apologies.

Thank you for the additional information.  I looked at both of the models that you referenced.  What makes you think any of those are better choices.  They just seem more expensive.  I am no power supply expert, so I am trying to figure out what I am missing from your suggestions.

[JJ_023]

Thank you for the data point.  What is something that you don't like about the Rigol?  I've considered that unit as well.

Nothing really. It only has 3 channels vs 4 for the GPP-4323, but that's not an issue for me. GPP-4323 also has an electronic load.

The Rigol does everything I need, very happy.

IIRC the Rigol 930 series does not have seperate grounds for all channels. This could be problematic in some situations.

Could you please give me a few examples as a data point where that would be problematic?

[JJ_023]

Battery charging should be left to battery chargers. Battery chargers are cheap and common.

That is a very valid point.  I still sometimes like to use a power supply to charge batteries especially 18650s above 1A.  I also deal with odd size lithium batteries so sometimes it's a lot easier for me to custom fabricate a holder then have numerous specialty chargers.  It's just a preference, probably not a good one.

[JJ_023]

looking forward to buy a PSU, I got stuck on the GWs with load function as well. As a benefit to a well constructed and basically reliable PSU it‘s nice to have an EL, but I really love my Kunkin KP184 as a separate device, not only because it can handle up to 400 watts and 150 volts. Before that, I used some Chinese naked PCBs with fans on it up to 50 watts. I am very glad to leave them behind.
Rigol? did not the 83x series have many odd issues in behaviour and stability?

Having an electronic load inside a power supply is nice but no way a needed feature for me.  I have a decent amount of experience with all sorts of industrial machines.  The reason I say that is usually combination units compromise on 1 of the combinations.  So I don't really expect much from that particular load.  I do however expect a good power supply as its main role.  I think primarily I would limit it to stupid stuff like discharge curves of a battery at a low current.

I have no idea on the Rigol.

[ArcticGeek]

Thank you for the data point.  What is something that you don't like about the Rigol?  I've considered that unit as well.

Nothing really. It only has 3 channels vs 4 for the GPP-4323, but that's not an issue for me. GPP-4323 also has an electronic load.

The Rigol does everything I need, very happy.

IIRC the Rigol 930 series does not have seperate grounds for all channels. This could be problematic in some situations.

Just to be clear, the DP932 series has all of the channels floating relative to the other channels.  This was NOT the case with the DP832 series from Rigol, however.

[ArcticGeek]

@JJ_023

The GPP-4323 is a decent supply but it does have its drawbacks.  For these reasons I recently sold mine after about a year and got a different unit.

The things I am referring to might seem petty, but I found them very annoying.  The things I don't like about the GPP-4323 are:

1.  The screen is really too small for display all 4 channels at once.  If you have it directly in front of you, its okay.  But I have my power supply on the shelf above my bench, and I find it very difficult to read all of the settings for all of the channels because the font is so small.  I actually sent an email to GW-Instek requesting a FW update that made the font a bit larger and possibly removed other things in the window such as OVP and OCP....and they basically were not interested.

2.  The layout of the binding posts on the front panel is very ackward for me to get used to.  From a very early age I learned to read from left to right and that you count 1,2,3,4 in that order.  Instek decided on this goofy arrangement of Channel 4-1-2-3 on the front panel makes sense.  I could never get used to this and it was always confusing.

3.  Related to #2 above, the screen which shows each channel's status is shown as channel 1 and 2 on the top, and channels 4 and 3 on the bottom (in that order).  Again, I find this very annoying because I'm accustomed to counting 1-2-3-4 (reading from left to right).

4.  The binding posts are not really color coded and marked very well.  Most mfgrs put a red ring around the positive and black ring on the negative binding post at the end of the binding post.  Instek only has the small red and black band BEHIND the binding posts, and I found myself spending way too much time just to make sure I have the right polarity and connected to the right set of binding posts.

As others have mentioned, this unit has good specs and built well, but these user interface issues mentioned above became a real problem for me.  If you don't think these issues would bother you, this unit is pretty good.

In case you are wondering, I purchased a Rigol DP932E as a replacement for the Instek unit, and added the $100 high-res option (although I think that is hackable now).  Although it's only 3 channel, I find that the user interface is much more friendly than the Instek and it's much easier/quicker to connect my leads and read the current/voltage of all the channels.

Just my opinion for what its worth.  Good luck in your decision.

Thank you for such an elaborate response.  When it comes to personal preferences I don't think anything is petty.

1.  I can't really comment on the screen size because I haven't seen this particular unit in person.  Usually that sort of stuff won't bother me as much.  I think you can run it off the PC.  Is this not the case? 

I'm also surprised that some of the talented people on this forum that have this particular supply have not figured out a way to adjust the font size.

2.  I agree that is a pretty stupid way of doing it.

3.  This is also pretty stupid, I totally agree.  Do they issue firmware updates? If so how often?

4.  This also doesn't make much sense however I would probably solve that with a sharpie.  Don't laugh.

I have thought about the Rigol seems like a decent unit.    Is there anything about the Rigol that you don't like and bothers you as well?  Why is the DP932E 195W and the DP932A 210W.  I thought it is basically the same unit that's why it is upgradable.

The DP932E is only rated for 30V/3A and the DP932A is rated 32V/3A.  I think in both cases the max current is 3.2A on the actual unit, and as I recall I think the max voltage that you can set on my DP932E is 31.5V.

There are 2 things I don't like on the Rigol DP932E:

1. The fan control.  When you first turn it on it's at the max setting and quiets down once booted.  Even at the slowest speed it's still a little annoying, although from what I understand it is still better than the older DP832.  I've found from experimenting that the fan algorithm is pretty simplistic - if you short all 3 outputs when set at max current the fan stays at the lowest speed for 3 minutes and then goes to max speed, no matter how warm/hot things were previously.  Once the outputs are no longer at max current the fan immediately goes back to the lower speed. 

2.  When you press the ALL ON/OFF button you are prompted "Are you sure you want to turn all outputs on?" and you have to either press enter or select to get the outputs to turn on.  This requires a second button press, and I find it very annoying. 

I sent an email to Rigol asking for a change to this as well and the fan issue , and their response was that they might consider a change to the ALL ON button action in a future FW release if other customers requested it as well.  They did not make any comments about the fan.

I continue to hope that they improved both issues in future FW changes.

[JJ_023]

The DP932E is only rated for 30V/3A and the DP932A is rated 32V/3A.  I think in both cases the max current is 3.2A on the actual unit, and as I recall I think the max voltage that you can set on my DP932E is 31.5V.

There are 2 things I don't like on the Rigol DP932E:

1. The fan control.  When you first turn it on it's at the max setting and quiets down once booted.  Even at the slowest speed it's still a little annoying, although from what I understand it is still better than the older DP832.  I've found from experimenting that the fan algorithm is pretty simplistic - if you short all 3 outputs when set at max current the fan stays at the lowest speed for 3 minutes and then goes to max speed, no matter how warm/hot things were previously.  Once the outputs are no longer at max current the fan immediately goes back to the lower speed. 

2.  When you press the ALL ON/OFF button you are prompted "Are you sure you want to turn all outputs on?" and you have to either press enter or select to get the outputs to turn on.  This requires a second button press, and I find it very annoying. 

I sent an email to Rigol asking for a change to this as well and the fan issue , and their response was that they might consider a change to the ALL ON button action in a future FW release if other customers requested it as well.  They did not make any comments about the fan.

I continue to hope that they improved both issues in future FW changes.

I see the difference.  I was originally under the impression that they were the same unit and it's just a matter of different firmware.  I guess I stand corrected.

I am not 1 of these people that is bothered by fan noise.  I am surprised at how many people are distracted by this. 

The ALL ON button might be a pain but in other cases it might save you.  Can you individually turn channels on and off?

It would be nice if companies actually listened to people that spend money on their products. lol

Again thank you for the information and your time.

[nctnico]

I am not 1 of these people that is bothered by fan noise.  I am surprised at how many people are distracted by this. 

Wait until you get a bit older. Fan noise will become a nuisance. It is easier to concentrate on a difficult problem in a quiet environment.

[Smokey]

...it's very responsive on the communication ports....

I looked through the documents and I didn't see a spec for communication speed/update rate.  Do you know what the actual spec is for this on the GPP-4323?

(My quest for bench supply -> poor mans SMU continues.....  This actually ticks a lot of boxes if it has source/sink and a fast update)

For reference, this was my thread about Rigol command processing time.
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/rigol-dp832-remote-command-update-rate/

[JJ_023]

I am not 1 of these people that is bothered by fan noise.  I am surprised at how many people are distracted by this. 

Wait until you get a bit older. Fan noise will become a nuisance. It is easier to concentrate on a difficult problem in a quiet environment.

I get what you are saying.  Certain noises definitely bother me.  But what's funny is I sometimes use a loud fan to drown out the noises that do bother me when I need to concentrate on certain documents for equations.  It also helps me sleep. 

[JJ_023]

...it's very responsive on the communication ports....

I looked through the documents and I didn't see a spec for communication speed/update rate.  Do you know what the actual spec is for this on the GPP-4323?

(My quest for bench supply -> poor mans SMU continues.....  This actually ticks a lot of boxes if it has source/sink and a fast update)

For reference, this was my thread about Rigol command processing time.
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/rigol-dp832-remote-command-update-rate/

All I remember is that it had a 115200 transmission baud rate via USB.  That's from the manual not the datasheet.

[Smokey]

What I'm interested in are the command processing time and the minimum dwell time for remote commands.  But then again I'm a crazy person so none of this should really impact your decision unless you are also the same type of crazy.

[JJ_023]

What I'm interested in are the command processing time and the minimum dwell time for remote commands.  But then again I'm a crazy person so none of this should really impact your decision unless you are also the same type of crazy.

Right now I don't really have any of those needs but who knows down the road I might lose my sanity and have the same exact type of need.

[hpw]

The DP932E is only rated for 30V/3A and the DP932A is rated 32V/3A.  I think in both cases the max current is 3.2A on the actual unit, and as I recall I think the max voltage that you can set on my DP932E is 31.5V.

There are 2 things I don't like on the Rigol DP932E:

1. The fan control.  When you first turn it on it's at the max setting and quiets down once booted.  Even at the slowest speed it's still a little annoying, although from what I understand it is still better than the older DP832.  I've found from experimenting that the fan algorithm is pretty simplistic - if you short all 3 outputs when set at max current the fan stays at the lowest speed for 3 minutes and then goes to max speed, no matter how warm/hot things were previously.  Once the outputs are no longer at max current the fan immediately goes back to the lower speed. 

2.  When you press the ALL ON/OFF button you are prompted "Are you sure you want to turn all outputs on?" and you have to either press enter or select to get the outputs to turn on.  This requires a second button press, and I find it very annoying. 

I continue to hope that they improved both issues in future FW changes.

Yes, my DP832:

FAN: still have the original fan, as from forum member, just cut off the metallic openings fan grill away (as a part of the box) and add for security an ordinary grill.

Calibration: is a nightmare as to tweak each channel for xxmV deviations.

Power: always disconnect any connections before connection and disconnecting. The secure option by yourself

Ugly: after using, that the 3. channel as maximal 5.3V, also required external groundings (avoid internal connections as to read on this forum),  as would like to have more 5.5 or 6V as the newer models

so my 2 cents on good or ugly PSU for the lab.

Hp

[blackdog]

My two cents opinion. :-)

I now have two GW-Instek 4323 power supplies since last month and for the most part I am happy with them.

Why did I choose this model, I had first bought a new model from Rigol.
This Rigol DP2031 was back in the box the very next day back to the supplier.

The reason were the irritating bugs in the software and the sound of an F16 and this even when the power supply was just on and doing nothing.

The 4323 from GW-Instek turned on quickly, no sound and four totally separate power supplies.
That you start on the left side with channel-4 is only a little awkward at first.
I use channel-4 the most, so I no longer experience the out-of-order channel numbering as a problem.

Then this, why should a LAB Power Supply provide the same power for each channel?
A manufacturer wants a certain form factor and a certain power fits into that in terms of dissipation.
I think GW-Instek chose this well, at least for my applications.
I also find the DC Load feature easy, despite having several DC Load's here.

It's kind of the same with LAB Power Supplies as it is with Multimeters, I have 8.5, 7.5 and 5pcs 6.5 digit multimeters and some hand multimeter.
I use them as I need, I also have a small SMPS power supply that can deliver 10-Ampere, I only use this one when the SMPS interference level is not so important.

If you can afford it, then the GW-Instek 4323 is a good option.
There are of course brand more options and each device has its own idiosyncrasies, that are good to live with, like channel-4 with the 4323,
but for me not the bugs and noise of the Rigol Power Supply's.

I still have another Rigol Power Supply which I have taken care of to make the noise less.
This is a cheaper Rigol that has otherwise proven to be well reliable and has no annoying bugs for normal use.

Here is a link on how to customize this Rigol DP832, note that two channels of this power supply are connected through as far as ground is concerned.
https://www.circuitsonline.net/forum/view/130740

Kind regards,
Bram

[mawyatt]

Similar experience/opinion with GPP-4323, nice supply!! Only real complaint besides the channel arrangement is the lack of easily visible +- identification on terminals, which was solved with colored pens as posted by jjoonathan.

One thing were were adamant about for our lab supplies was no voltage overshoot under any conditions, vaguely recall a Rigol supply had this issue and later so did a R&S. We lost 2 $50K chips way back because a lab supply went rogue and had a power on voltage glitch, so this is the 1st thing we look for in a lab supply!!!

Best,