| Products > Test Equipment |
| Is this a real or fake Fluke multimeter? |
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| Someone:
--- Quote from: bdunham7 on July 05, 2023, 03:21:43 am --- --- Quote from: ataradov on July 05, 2023, 02:45:32 am ---In that case, it is perfect. --- End quote --- How is it good for testing AA batteries? :-// --- End quote --- Because it will do an ok job of that while still meeting all the safety requirements for the mains work (robustness etc). Given the OPs description of what they do it seems like an excellent choice. Are there better tools for battery testing? yes? But if the choice is a single device to do all the above I'd pick the Fluke 101 too. |
| ataradov:
--- Quote from: bdunham7 on July 05, 2023, 03:21:43 am ---How is it good for testing AA batteries? :-// --- End quote --- It is mostly perfect for not sticking $6 Harbor Freight meter into the mains. And just getting the voltage from the battery is sufficient in many cases. Obviously, dedicated tools would be better. But if you are looking for just one tool, this is fine. And not even having the current range prevents you from sticking it into the mains on the current range. |
| bdunham7:
--- Quote from: Someone on July 05, 2023, 03:37:08 am ---Are there better tools for battery testing? yes? But if the choice is a single device to do all the above I'd pick the Fluke 101 too. --- End quote --- I don't know if 'single device' is a hard requirement here, but I really have to protest that ANY standard DMM with standard test leads is just a bad choice for either task. Testing alkaline batteries OCV doesn't work and recent discusssions here have pointed out that using OCV is even more pointless than I'd previously imagined. Probing wall sockets with test leads is also a fairly wretched way to do it, as you often have difficulty making contact and may wrongly assume that the socket is dead. Any awkwardness or obstruction in getting to the socket makes that 3X worse. And then there are some hazards as well--the accidental insertion of the leads into the amp jacks (not a problem with the 101, of course), accidentally touching the probe tips (note that the 101 has long, uninsulated probes) and even the possibility of shorting the socket internally. The tools I've proposed are what works easily and safely in my experience. The DMM won't work for the first task and sucks for the second. And if you want to read the voltage at the socket for some reason, get a Kill-a-Watt type device that will even let you test under load. https://www.amazon.com/Poniie-PN2000-Electricity-Electrical-Consumption/dp/B0777H8MS8 |
| bdunham7:
--- Quote from: ataradov on July 05, 2023, 03:48:41 am ---And just getting the voltage from the battery is sufficient in many cases. --- End quote --- OK, so for an AA Duracell used in a momentary medium-high drain (which I presume is what you have with a urinal flusher), what OCV voltages are good and bad? |
| AVGresponding:
--- Quote from: bdunham7 on July 05, 2023, 04:01:39 am --- --- Quote from: Someone on July 05, 2023, 03:37:08 am ---Are there better tools for battery testing? yes? But if the choice is a single device to do all the above I'd pick the Fluke 101 too. --- End quote --- I don't know if 'single device' is a hard requirement here, but I really have to protest that ANY standard DMM with standard test leads is just a bad choice for either task. Testing alkaline batteries OCV doesn't work and recent discusssions here have pointed out that using OCV is even more pointless than I'd previously imagined. Probing wall sockets with test leads is also a fairly wretched way to do it, as you often have difficulty making contact and may wrongly assume that the socket is dead. Any awkwardness or obstruction in getting to the socket makes that 3X worse. And then there are some hazards as well--the accidental insertion of the leads into the amp jacks (not a problem with the 101, of course), accidentally touching the probe tips (note that the 101 has long, uninsulated probes) and even the possibility of shorting the socket internally. The tools I've proposed are what works easily and safely in my experience. The DMM won't work for the first task and sucks for the second. And if you want to read the voltage at the socket for some reason, get a Kill-a-Watt type device that will even let you test under load. https://www.amazon.com/Poniie-PN2000-Electricity-Electrical-Consumption/dp/B0777H8MS8 --- End quote --- --- Quote from: bdunham7 on July 05, 2023, 04:57:03 am --- --- Quote from: ataradov on July 05, 2023, 03:48:41 am ---And just getting the voltage from the battery is sufficient in many cases. --- End quote --- OK, so for an AA Duracell used in a momentary medium-high drain (which I presume is what you have with a urinal flusher), what OCV voltages are good and bad? --- End quote --- The OP says they want it for hotel maintenance, checking room sockets etc, those aren't going to be access impeded, though my personal choice would be a dedicated plug-in tester, which would also give you the status of the loop impedance (where appropriate), polarity, and the CPC. The one I use also has the ability to trip the RCD (GFCI). A multimeter won't tell you these things, necessarily. AA alkaline in such an application are probably good above around 1.4v OC, but it's one of those "suck it and see" situations where experience tells you if it's good; ie you learn pretty quickly where the cutoff voltage is by observation. |
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