Is this a real or fake Fluke multimeter?

[bdunham7]

Well I use the DMM to check battery all the time. If I get 1.38V I would toss it.

You might be landfilling a battery with >1000 flushes left in it!  I'll take one of my 1.25V 'almost dead' batteries and put it in a small single-cell LED flashlight and see how long it goes--and I'll report back.
Edit:  So I did that and the battery lasted 2 hours before the light was dim enough to not be useful.  The battery measured 0.99OCV and just into the read 'dead' zone on the tester.  This is one of those cheapo single-cell boosted LED models that draws about 1A initially and then slowly gets dimmer and draws less as the battery depletes.  It was drawing about 250mA, so the battery had ~500mA left, or a bit less than 20%, at 1.25OCV.  So if you throw away a battery at 1.38OCV, it might have a third or more of it's life left, or it might be completely depleted.  The battery tester, OTOH, seems to give consistently correct results. YMMV.

I don't see any problem with that. I much prefer that than a plug with the light or a non contact device.

A modern tamper-resistant outlet will change your mind in a hurry.  But seriously, what does everyone have against the 3-light testers?  They test all three lines at once and put a small load on the circuit which eliminates the "ghost voltage" issue. And they automatically spot miswired outlets whereas you really have to pay attention to notice when using a DMM.  Also, unless your DMM has Lo-Z it is susceptible to a false reading due to a spider or a tiny bit of leakage.

[themadhippy]

And they automatically spot miswired outlets

everyone ive owned wont show neutral earth reversed,which can be fun when  trying to track down the reason your rcd keeps randomly tripping

I would take a pair of test leads and wire them in a plug

or buy a proper adaptor ,uk version but id guess theres an american variant

[wasedadoc]

And they automatically spot miswired outlets

everyone ive owned wont show neutral earth reversed,which can be fun when  trying to track down the reason your rcd keeps randomly tripping

True enough but a DMM fails there too.

[mwb1100]

I've been sorta following along this thread.  I'm no electrician, but I've wired up some outlets before.  Incorrectly at least once.

While trying to learn a little more about this outlet checking stuff I came across this Fluke Application Note (that is no longer on Fluke's site for whatever reason) that might be of interest to some people here:

  - https://www.transcat.com/media/pdf/power_problems_receptacle.pdf

[Bud]

My Logitech wireless mouse works down to 0.8V. The used AA batteries I pull from other devices I save for that mouse.

[bdunham7]

While trying to learn a little more about this outlet checking stuff I came across this Fluke Application Note (that is no longer on Fluke's site for whatever reason) that might be of interest to some people here:

  - https://www.transcat.com/media/pdf/power_problems_receptacle.pdf

That's good info, but unless you have a large load on the circuit, your neutral drop voltage should be much less than 2V.  And if it is a balanced 'home run' circuit (shared neutral for circuits on opposite phases), it could be close to zero even with large loads.  And if you have a small N-G voltage, the difference between L-N and L-G is going to be tough to spot.  Just to try it, I used a Fluke 27 to check out my garage socket with a fridge and freezer (both running) on a circuit that is a fairly long distance from the panel and even goes through an unbonded sub-panel.  I got 0.23V N-G, 118.5 L-G and 118.2 L-N.  So it works out, but that's only a few counts on the meter.  A little noise, a shorter circuit, less load or a crappier meter and it will be an iffy proposition to detect a problem.  Unless perhaps you carry a space heater around with you.

Reversing N and G would be very unusual in the US context.  You're much more likely to see an open/missing G or the same wire used for N and G because someone installed a grounded plug into an old house without ground wires and figured N was good enough.  But I suppose some fool can manage to make any mistake imaginable.

[Someone]

That's pretty much what the OP wrote verbatim. So rather than dismissing any discussion on that basis, why not just as "ok, but perhaps 2 devices would be better for you?". Instead you sure seem to be writing a lot to justify your imagined position for the OP and defend it agains any alternative view points, without actually checking back with the OP as to what they want.

The OP originally merely asked whether a Fluke 101 is a genuine product.  I've never seen him state an explicit preference for having only one device.

Do we really need to pick apart the OP to such a degree and make several pages of arguing about what they intended? seems like you insist.... so the OP verbatim:

I was looking for a cheapest, small multimeter and I found this on Amazon

its under 50 bucks but it claims to be a Fluke brand multimeter. Not much features, but it's got everything I need. I need it mostly for testing regular batteries, continuity and testing 120v to 240v electrical things.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HE6MIJY

OP says they are looking for a cheap and small multimeter, and points to one that has "everything I need". Then goes on to add some context which explains clearly what their routine uses are. A great post that deserves some good replies.

How is that not a request for validation of their choice, based on that information? nowhere is there any hint they are looking for suggestions of other equipment to do the job or that multiple devices are being considered (which is what you have inferred and seem to be intent on doing).

Looks like most of us here see the point in using a single multimeter for these different tasks.

Then why not recommend a DMM that will actually do both things properly?  I did, in my first reply.

Your first suggestion in a pile of wordiness is for a meter that is (by your own verbosity) not suitable for their tasks. The next suggestion you made is for something behind a geoblock which I cannot even see to make any comment on. Opening with something not suitable is the kind of misleading and meandering nonsense you are filling this thread with, but then come back and claim it was entirely on topic and appropriate.

The problem we are having with you here is the string of "arguments" you make out of thin air, by coming back and trying so say our contributions are somehow invalid/incorrect/misleading/improper.

OP asked if that fluke is real and would do their stated jobs, we agreed it was a good choice. Yet you are individually quoting/replying to specific people with a [imagined] disagreement that is only in your head (and now spewing across the forum and drowning out the content). Other posters have been able to make a similar suggestion to the OP that they could consider alternatives in a polite manner without directly quoting and dismissing others opinions.

But do continue to escalate this for another few pages of noise.

[bdunham7]

nowhere is there any hint they are looking for suggestions of other equipment to do the job

Sir, this is EEVBlog.  And in any case, even if it were Moe's Pub, is a thoughtful suggestion from somebody specifically experienced in these specific tasks so out of line?

Your first suggestion in a pile of wordiness is for a meter that is (by your own verbosity) not suitable for their tasks.

Please.  First, I actually answered his questions before my egregious barrage of contentious verbosity.  Then, the OP did say "cheapest small multimeter" and I linked one.  I referred to it as an atrocity and it was quite clear that I wasn't actually recommending he get one, but still it can actually do both requested functions as opposed to the F101 which IMO cannot.  I then linked the DMM I actually recommended.  If that is the link you cannot see, it is the Klein MM325, or better yet a kit with that DMM, an NCV tester and a 3-light socket tester for $5 more.  I didn't recommend a non-DMM solution until he listed the two specific tasks he would be doing the most.  He can get the DMM, the Amprobe BAT-250 battery tester and a 3-light socket tester for about the same price as the Fluke 101. 

The problem we are having with you here is the string of "arguments" you make out of thin air, by coming back and trying so say our contributions are somehow invalid/incorrect/misleading/improper.

The factual bases for my objections to the Fluke 101 as the proper tool here are clear enough.  If you want less noise, try responding to those instead of dismissing my "arguments" as thin air.  In case you missed it, the two main issues (based on my experience) are 1) testing AA cells without a load (OCV) can give unreliable results and 2) back-probing US walls sockets (specifically NEMA 5-15R) with standard test probes is awkward, slightly hazardous and sometimes can give false negative readings due to not making a good connection with the internal contacts.   Additionally there is the Low-Z/ghost voltage issue. Sure, you could use the Fluke 101, but IMO the other solutions are much better. Tell me why I'm wrong on any of those counts.

[Axtman]

I bought a Fluke 101 the other day off Amazon. The seller was Fluke in Everett Washington (USA). It was a little over $50 with tax.

It is a great meter that I will take to garage sales and swap meets. I wanted a reliable meter with auto-power off and small pocket size. This one fills the bill!

My "daily driver" is a Fluke 87V.

[Someone]

The factual bases for my objections to the Fluke 101 as the proper tool here are clear enough.  If you want less noise, try responding to those instead of dismissing my "arguments" as thin air.  In case you missed it, the two main issues (based on my experience) are 1) testing AA cells without a load (OCV) can give unreliable results and 2) back-probing US walls sockets (specifically NEMA 5-15R) with standard test probes is awkward, slightly hazardous and sometimes can give false negative readings due to not making a good connection with the internal contacts.   Additionally there is the Low-Z/ghost voltage issue. Sure, you could use the Fluke 101, but IMO the other solutions are much better.

Tell me why I'm wrong on any of those counts.

Because you infer most of that as an issue for the OP when it is your experience (of some other situations) and not clearly applicable to the OP. Say that all you like but coming in and sniping others answers as incorrect without any of that context or explanation is both misleading, and inflammatory. Notice how the OP has returned yet not engaged on that or gone in the direction you are pushing?

Someone (the OP) asking about a $50 meter as they are looking for something budget/cheap:

I was looking for a cheapest, small multimeter

... and small, is unlikely to be considering buying a set of probes for $50 or more (like say TP1) or a meter for 2x-3x-4x the price. Mentioning small, they are unlikely to be interested in a bulkier collection of other devices to do the stated task.

Right there stated in the opening post yet you're digging in and insisting or arguing on what you want to talk about as if it affects the OP (your justification). Your issues with the suggestion of a Fluke 101 were not clear and stated up front, they're dripping out as you continue to blather on and pollute the thread.

[bpan]

I find it strange that you would have issues testing a socket with test leads. I do it all the time. But I use leads that are exposed. Shove them in and the tension of the socket holds them there just like it would on a plug.

[bdunham7]

Right there stated in the opening post yet you're digging in and insisting or arguing on what you want to talk about as if it affects the OP (your justification). Your issues with the suggestion of a Fluke 101 were not clear and stated up front, they're dripping out as you continue to blather on and pollute the thread.

I don't want to pollute the thread further by responding blow-by-blow, but I really don't know what you are reading here.  My specific issue with the F101 was stated clearly yet briefly in the first paragraph of my first reply.  Disagreeing with forum members that I respect and providing a reason that can be discussed is hardly sniping.  I'd expect them to consider what I say and change their minds if they agree with new information or ideas that they hadn't thought of--just as I would.  Or, they can tell me why I'm wrong.

One of the options I suggested to the OP was, in fact, a good, small and cheap DMM.  I only made other suggestions when he clarified what he was doing. Everything I said was directed at helping the OP, who clearly may not even really know the right questions to ask, come up with a good solution for his use case.  None of my suggested strategies would cost more than $50 total. If you'd like to refute my underlying reasons or make a different suggestion, go ahead.

Hopefully the OP is a lurker turned active user who already realizes we're a bunch of opinionated gasbags. 

[bdunham7]

I find it strange that you would have issues testing a socket with test leads. I do it all the time. But I use leads that are exposed. Shove them in and the tension of the socket holds them there just like it would on a plug.

Yes, a good portion of the time that works.  But there are many different designs.  At least some of the time I find that I can't get the probe in and I have to hold both probes with one hand, other times I've observed a bad connection unless I hold the probe to one side.  These are all sockets that appeared to work properly with a regular plug.  Then there are plugs that are obstructed or hard to reach--behind furniture or something--and there isn't enough room for a test probe but there is for a plug tester.  And finally, there are the new tamper-resistant plugs which totally defeat the probes, just as they're designed to do.  I'm using normal TL71 and TL75 probes.  As I say, YMMV.

[Pcmaker]

test leads don't work too well in outlets, I just wiggle it side to side until I get contact