Author Topic: JBC CD-1BQE  (Read 19648 times)

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Offline Shock

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Re: JBC CD-1BQE
« Reply #100 on: June 14, 2019, 01:06:35 am »
Going back to the Jabe, I did a little more digging. From what Equalizer said it's a 50W rated iron and tip and it's set to "150W" in software. So in other words they are overheating/cooking the element. He said running it at the 150W setting will destroy your expensive tips (I think he was speaking from experience). This is starting to make more sense, I smelled a rat but you never know, they could have changed the firmware since then.

Looking at this process I can't help but feel you have now thrown $320 or so at China and really got little benefit out of it, and your interpretation of a high power T12 smps indicating the performance of the station is leading you astray. Transformers (unless you need portability) are the best way to go, aside from control technology transformers simplify ESD, grounding, reliability and safety. On the bench (if that is your purpose) you want hefty station, when you hit buttons, spin knobs and move the handpiece, the station itself shouldn't move.

To me it's a bit backwards seeking the ultimate GUI. If you want DIY look for the best iron and control circuit then add your own micro and software around it. You get no closer using closed source showing some fancy calibration menus, a jumpy power indicator and a clock. All that crap you can add to any DIY project.
« Last Edit: June 14, 2019, 01:19:45 am by Shock »
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Offline Gandalf_SrTopic starter

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Re: JBC CD-1BQE
« Reply #101 on: June 14, 2019, 11:18:26 am »
Sure I threw some money at China but I now have a very heavy soldering station, so heavy in fact that, even if all the electronics fried, it would make a great door stop.

Seriously, if I get round to my own design, I'll use an off the shelf $16, 24V, 6A, SMPS brick that are now ubiquitous because they're used for LED lighting - this approach also means that it works anywhere on the planet (and maybe off-planet too).  I have considered the need to have a heavy unit on the bench and would consider having an iron weight inside the case to give it 'heft'.
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Offline exe

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Re: JBC CD-1BQE
« Reply #102 on: June 14, 2019, 11:47:50 am »
On the bench (if that is your purpose) you want hefty station, when you hit buttons, spin knobs and move the handpiece, the station itself shouldn't move.

TL;DR: different people have different priorities. I'm happy with my tiny soldering station, so happy that gave away my hefty unit to a friend.

Actually, I like small equipment, so I can put more on my bench. I don't have problems pressing the knobs (because I grab the station with index finger, but that's alright, I don't change temperature too often. But even if I had, I'm still not willing to pay extra for this. I'd rather glue the station to my bench, or install rubber feet, or something.

I'm also a price-sensitive person. There are trade-offs I can make. The only thing I demand is, probably, safety. Rest can be fixed:
1) grounding -- my tip is grounded from the factory, I checked.
2) ESD safety -- not sure what this means, the tip is grounded, I am grounded, I feel safe. Moreover, many stations are not declared as esd-safe, or it costs extra (hello, ersa) to get them made of conductive plastic. But, again, what's the point if tip is grounded? Anyway, I'm yet to kill something with esd. Even sensitive mosfets survived my soldering (probably, due to integrated zener on the gate). Actually, I'd rather connect tip via a 1Meg resistor to prevent accidental shorting, like my wristband.
3) reliably -- just change caps, or replace the power supply, it costs about $20, not a big deal. I also have a fire alarm in the lab, just in case (though it does only sound, it doesn't alert fire brigade). And house insurance.

So, I'm not saying everyone should share my value. I'm saying that there is a demand for cheap small compact soldering stations for those who don't solder 8 hours a day. I even like it has a clock on it. That's totally unnecessary, as many other feature it has, but I like it. It's a gadget.

So, let's praise diversity -- if one wants a brick that can survive a nuclear war there is Pace. For people on a small budget there is ksger. These are two different markets, afaik, and I'm glad both ends are covered.
 

Offline snoopy

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Re: JBC CD-1BQE
« Reply #103 on: June 14, 2019, 01:08:34 pm »
Snoopy, that looks like my head unit.  It's an OLED display, do you want the actual part number?

Yes would be interested in the exact part number.

It looks a lot better quality than the run of the mill 128x64 OLED displays kicking around on ebay.

cheers
 

Offline snoopy

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Re: JBC CD-1BQE
« Reply #104 on: June 14, 2019, 01:14:29 pm »
Going back to the Jabe, I did a little more digging. From what Equalizer said it's a 50W rated iron and tip and it's set to "150W" in software. So in other words they are overheating/cooking the element. He said running it at the 150W setting will destroy your expensive tips (I think he was speaking from experience). This is starting to make more sense, I smelled a rat but you never know, they could have changed the firmware since then.

Looking at this process I can't help but feel you have now thrown $320 or so at China and really got little benefit out of it, and your interpretation of a high power T12 smps indicating the performance of the station is leading you astray. Transformers (unless you need portability) are the best way to go, aside from control technology transformers simplify ESD, grounding, reliability and safety. On the bench (if that is your purpose) you want hefty station, when you hit buttons, spin knobs and move the handpiece, the station itself shouldn't move.

To me it's a bit backwards seeking the ultimate GUI. If you want DIY look for the best iron and control circuit then add your own micro and software around it. You get no closer using closed source showing some fancy calibration menus, a jumpy power indicator and a clock. All that crap you can add to any DIY project.

You can dial down the power on the JABE so you don't cook the tips. I have mine set at 70 Watts. There's no doubt that the on board micro is calculating the average power delivered to the tip in real time which may explain why the JBC uses a dspPIC but the STM32 used on the JABE is equally capable of doing this as well.

For the price I'm not sure why you'd want to reinvent the wheel when the KSGER is working fine and offers many more options than the original fx-951 or its clones which don't even have a proper setback function.

cheers
 

Offline Gandalf_SrTopic starter

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Re: JBC CD-1BQE
« Reply #105 on: June 14, 2019, 08:45:31 pm »
Snoopy, that looks like my head unit.  It's an OLED display, do you want the actual part number?

Yes would be interested in the exact part number.

It looks a lot better quality than the run of the mill 128x64 OLED displays kicking around on ebay.

cheers

I think it's one of these.

My 10 x T12 tips arrived today along with an aluminum handle kit, does anyone have the wiring schematic for that handle so that it works for the 5-pin KSGER T12 system?
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Offline Gandalf_SrTopic starter

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Re: JBC CD-1BQE
« Reply #106 on: June 15, 2019, 01:10:38 pm »
I put my aluminum handle together this morning, I copied the exact wiring of my working plastic handle just like shown in the pictures here and I used the same T12 tip but it doesn't work, it just says ERROR on the display and the tip doesn't get warm.

There's a small component in my aluminum handle that looks like a small black bead capacitor that I presumed is the thermistor to sense ambient and I don't think that has polarity, in the linked pictures it looks like a small glass-encapsulated diode but the other component marked SW200D is definitely the tilt switch (mine was a glass capsule like a neon bulb with mercury inside) so this must be the thermistor - it goes between 1 and 4 (white and black).

I've included pictures. The black part with the 3 lugs is the old plastic (working) handle, the white one is the new one that goes into the aluminum handle.

Any ideas?

[EDIT 1] I spun the tip around in the handle and it started working, it's a bad connection inside the white terminal hub.

[EDIT 2] I did a more detailed investigation and found that the T12 tips weren't going all the way in due to lumps in the plastic molding.  I 'fixed' that by performing a lumpectomy and now the T12-K tip that came with the soldering station seems to work perfectly but a smaller tip used on the new aluminum handle still flashes "ERROR" periodically as the tip tries to heat up but that "ERROR" isn't there at all on the blue plastic handle.  Think it's time to whine at Banggood
« Last Edit: June 16, 2019, 12:44:01 pm by Gandalf_Sr »
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Offline Zloy_Bender

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Re: JBC CD-1BQE
« Reply #107 on: June 18, 2019, 06:28:45 pm »
Anecdotal Tales from the Bench part 301

I've just been doing a soldering job this morning on a T0220 FET mounted on a PCB that has a vertical heat sink which is already attached to the FET. The 2 irons I used were the Hakko FX-951 (set to 345C) and the KSGER T12 (set to 300C).  On the S and D pins, the Hakko could barely melt the solder even after 10 seconds or so, the KSGER hit the pad and the solder flowed fully within a second or so.

Did you do a calibration on KSGER?  Measure the temperature of the sting?  Does it coincide with the indicator readings?
 

Offline snoopy

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Re: JBC CD-1BQE
« Reply #108 on: June 19, 2019, 02:08:00 am »
I put my aluminum handle together this morning, I copied the exact wiring of my working plastic handle just like shown in the pictures here and I used the same T12 tip but it doesn't work, it just says ERROR on the display and the tip doesn't get warm.

There's a small component in my aluminum handle that looks like a small black bead capacitor that I presumed is the thermistor to sense ambient and I don't think that has polarity, in the linked pictures it looks like a small glass-encapsulated diode but the other component marked SW200D is definitely the tilt switch (mine was a glass capsule like a neon bulb with mercury inside) so this must be the thermistor - it goes between 1 and 4 (white and black).

I've included pictures. The black part with the 3 lugs is the old plastic (working) handle, the white one is the new one that goes into the aluminum handle.

Any ideas?

[EDIT 1] I spun the tip around in the handle and it started working, it's a bad connection inside the white terminal hub.

[EDIT 2] I did a more detailed investigation and found that the T12 tips weren't going all the way in due to lumps in the plastic molding.  I 'fixed' that by performing a lumpectomy and now the T12-K tip that came with the soldering station seems to work perfectly but a smaller tip used on the new aluminum handle still flashes "ERROR" periodically as the tip tries to heat up but that "ERROR" isn't there at all on the blue plastic handle.  Think it's time to whine at Banggood

I bought two pre-built aluminium handles as recommended by Defpom. The problems I found was that the rubber grommets in the neck of the handle tend to be quite sticky so I suggest you spray some lubricant such as CRC 2-26 down the shaft so the tips can easily be inserted and removed. The second handle did not work with an ERROR displayed on the screen. When I unscrewed the top part of the handle and inserted the tip directly into the contact barrel it worked ! What I found was the rubber grommets were not inserted far enough into the barrel at the top and so the tip did not make proper contact. Easily fixed with the blunt end of a suitable sized drilled pushing the grommets in as far in as possible. Now both are working properly ;)
 

Offline Gandalf_SrTopic starter

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Re: JBC CD-1BQE
« Reply #109 on: June 21, 2019, 12:34:11 am »
I've been busy with work so I haven't had the chance to do much more investigation on the aluminum handle.  The second KSGER STM32 V2.01 arrived and it's identical to the first one, it too had a completely dead CR2032 battery but it works fine otherwise.  I contacted Banggood and they offered me a $10 refund which I accepted.
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Offline abp250

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Re: JBC CD-1BQE
« Reply #110 on: March 29, 2023, 10:03:14 pm »
I plugged the CD-1BQE into a 220v pdu and it popped the fuse. I replaced the fuse and put it on a 120v outlet and it wouldn't turn on and a minute later I noticed a burning smell and the new fuse was blown again. I opened up the unit and found that what appears to be a diode on the transformer PCB was burnt pretty bad. I'm wondering if it is repairable if this is replaced but I don't know any details about the component. Does anyone know or have a working 1bqe to retrieve the part number? Even better would be some sort of circuit diagram so I could check any other components for damage.

Thanks.
« Last Edit: March 30, 2023, 04:51:43 pm by abp250 »
 

Offline Kean

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Re: JBC CD-1BQE
« Reply #111 on: March 29, 2023, 11:19:51 pm »
I don't have one of those particular JBC stations, but the device looks like a TVS.  Can you tell if it is on the primary or secondary of the transformer?

If it is on AC input of the transformer then I would have expected a bidirectional TVS like a Bourns SMCJ160CA, but the BRP marking seems to match a unidirectional 30V Vishay part TPSMP30A.

If it is just a TVS, you can probably power up the unit without it to check other functionality, but it might be wise to use a variac or a "dim bulb current limiter".
 
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Offline abp250

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Re: JBC CD-1BQE
« Reply #112 on: March 31, 2023, 11:44:08 pm »
Thank you Kean!

I took a look at the datasheets for SMCJ160CA and TPSMP30A. It is on the secondary side as far as I can tell but the package looks more like a SMCJ160CA. I also cannot see any polarity markings on the burnt part but it is pretty badly burnt. I measured the resistance from all of those outputs (J1) to the primary side and they were all O.L. except to ground is about 170k from each point. I also measured between the secondary side windings outputs (J1) and got the values below:

1-2,1-3: 12.5k
1-4: 12.5k
2-4:1.6
2-5: 0.2
5-6:0.4

Do these look normal?

The ribbon looks shorted but it's just a little melted/charred from the burning TVS and mostly still intact.
I'll probably get several TVS and check which one works best.
I don't have a viriac or dim bulb current limiter but i'm looking into making one.
If i were to be able to power on the iron and get it working without the component would there be a way to narrow down what specs i should choose for the TVS? Do you think it would be worth reaching out to JBS to see if they will tell me which component would work best?

Update - I made a dim bulb current limiter and when i plug it in and turn on the JBC the light is fully lit :( pretty sure that means the transformer is busted right?
« Last Edit: April 03, 2023, 03:35:07 pm by abp250 »
 


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