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| Keysight 3000T scope 1 GHz(or more) hardware upgrade mod |
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| adranp:
:mrpackethead K1 is unpopulated in models lower than 1Ghz. Look carefully in the picture for K2 and K3 designators. K3 is unpopulated in lower than 1Ghz models and K2 is populated. There's the same relay at K502 position which is going to stay there (in all models). Also wanted to add that probably I'll be the next person doing this mod (some of my parts are here already and some will arrive next week).. Steve did a wonderful job putting this mod in a form that's quite easy to understand.. He explained a lot of things he encountered.. As he said already, please be advised this mod is not very simple. The number of parts to be added/swapped/removed is quite a task. Without proper soldering skills and tools this is going to be a nightmare. Before doing this mod I highly advise any of you to look at the other forum thread and understand the mod for 350/500Mhz and then come here and look at what should be done for 1Ghz. There are a lot of steps which could damage the PCB, so be advised on that. |
| mrpackethead:
Got it! there are still 2 of the Relays on the board. K2 is removed and K3 installed. theres a relay that doesnt get moved at all.. I did'nt see K2 is in the text on the unpopulated pads. I suspect that some preheating will make it easier to get the thing off.. ALso reduces the risk of damaging the board. Hate to lift a track.. You might also be able to use some low melt solder in there... |
| mrpackethead:
--- Quote from: adranp on July 02, 2017, 08:53:35 am ---Steve did a wonderful job putting this mod in a form that's quite easy to understand.. He explained a lot of things he encountered.. --- Quote --- In deed he has. I'd just failed to read the pictures properly. --- Quote ---As he said already, please be advised this mod is not very simple. The number of parts to be added/swapped/removed is quite a task. Without proper soldering skills and tools this is going to be a nightmare. --- End quote --- I'm pretty confident that i can do this, and i have a well equipped lab with good rework tools and inspection. Its a case of being careful and through, and making sure that you can absolutely understand all teh steps *BEFORE* you start. I'm away for another week, but i'm going to start ordering the parts, so i can get onto doing mine when i get back. --- Quote ---There are a lot of steps which could damage the PCB, so be advised on that. --- End quote --- Yes.. I need to have a look at the PCB and see if i can get it in the big preheater. Its just so much safter to get the pcb up to about 150C, and then start with the hot-air.. --- End quote --- --- End quote --- |
| adranp:
Hotair is required just for the relay removal at K2. On the back of the board you have the BNC connectors which might give you some trouble putting the board on preheater. A tool which would make your life much easier would be a soldering tweezer. |
| TheSteve:
--- Quote from: mrpackethead on July 02, 2017, 08:29:37 am ---Did you preheat the board? --- End quote --- As adranp mentioned I did not preheat the board at all. If I was doing it again I might gently warm the entire board with a heatgun. I had planned to sacrifice the relays all along though. The space is very tight so you can't direct the hotair right at the legs of the relays, it basically gets directed right on the top of them. The relay you need to keep and not damage is only a few millimeters away(less then a quarter inch). Lifting traces shouldn't be an issue unless you're way to aggressive trying to remove the relays. The PCB is of high quality and you should be very gentle when removing the relays. |
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