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| Keysight 3000T scope 1 GHz(or more) hardware upgrade mod |
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| badbiki:
Ye I reread the upgrade and the comment about the upgraded relays makes it clear. I have four on order so I’ll see how it goes. Is anagilent 1130A probe sufficient for testing and general scoping? Can eBay one for around 1k Ill take some photos of my unit pre and post. Will use my ESD room and straps on all irons for sure! |
| badbiki:
My relays arrived from https://www masterelectronics com/teledyne-relays/a1502012-12686042.html Their documentation seems legit and they came well packaged. Gold pins and underbelly with a nickel played top and markings. Getting the shields off was a pain. Ended up wiking most of the solder off each corner and then using a heat gun and flux to lift a side at a time. I would t recommend prying corners. The sheils have tabs mid way forcing a vertical lift. They really could have used 1/5 the solder to put these on IMHO. A lot of residue marks on the board before dissassemby and I even found a stray solder ball! Perhaps I should X-ray the board before final assembly:) It really is a work of art inside. My pre mod user cal ran through to success so here goes. I’m removing, desoldering, cleaning (Kim wipes and IPA) then fluxing and reapplying or installing new parts. Am I missing anything? I’ll photo check with my SLR pre/post mods. ESd Mat and strap in use. Using lead free solder. I’m assuming this is RHOS mostly? |
| TheSteve:
The shields can be a pain, with experience they get much easier. Add a little leaded solder to each joint, then use good quality wick to remove the solder. I am generally able to then lift each corner .5mm or so one at a time working my way around. If they don't want to move then just add heat while lifting, they should stay raised when you remove the heat as there should be next to no solder left holding them in place. The scope is certainly assembled with lead free solder. I always use leaded during rework. More then anything I'd say just take your time with the mod, don't rush it. To me the biggest challenge was removing the existing relays as I didn't want to damage anything else. With some board preheating(which I didn't do) they will come off very nicely though. The pads are very tiny on the signal path so inspect your connections very carefully. It is too much of a pain to be disassembling and reassembling too many times. |
| badbiki:
I agree with taking time and not rushing. Lifting tracks is my worst fear. Touch wood, I’ve only lifted 1980s era traces thus far. I too added a little leaded to help it flow, with tacky flux and good quality wick. CHIPQUIK 291 flux and chemtronics no clean desoldering braid, multiple sizes with hoof tip I was trying not to mix types of solder during rework. I find it comes out dull and doesn’t wet well otherwise. Even thought I hate reworking lead free. I was thinking of using kapton tape and some little insulators I have from my 3D printer to act as air barriers to remove the relays. I don’t have an IR or heated mat under my pcb holder at home. Perhaps I should borrow one for the weekend. Also don’t yet have my active GHz probe (shipping atm) or a ghz source handy. Any ideas of some cheap quick solutions for testing? My friend works at a lab with Calibrated rf gear, or I may call in a favour to use some equipment at my EDM. Do you tack the shields down with a little less solder? Also, one channel had a green sticker on it. I noticed some pictures have different colours or none at all. Are they a post check or marker for component values? As in they have a different set to pass? Green dot, red dot, orange... what do they mean? |
| TheSteve:
No idea on the dots, but it is normal. Ideally to determine performance you need a signal generator that goes to 1.5 GHz or so with a level output. You don't want to use a probe for testing, the signal generator should be directly connected to a channel input with 50 ohm mode enabled. I would use kapton tape to protect the areas around the relays, or metal shields if you have them. You can always at least warm the board a little with a heat gun - just don't go crazy. |
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