No, I think as soon as it detects over .1A, it switches into CC Mode and drops the voltage.
I just flipped the unit on to check that, and I was able to get all the way up to 32V, then after a second or two, the voltage started fluctuating. I'm going to try leaving it on for a little bit, then checking again - Wonder if something is heating up and developing a short...
or some of that dusty floof in there is shorting the output.
I know I spent about 1.5 cans of compressed air (and some iso) cleaning it out, the thing was filthy (although all my boards looked fine after cleanup). It is hard to say how hard the power supplies were driven in their original location. Although based on how dirty they were, they have probably seen quite a bit of use in what was probably a hot and dirty factory type location.
I would certainly clean the unit up if you haven't and look at all the electrolytic caps for any signs of leakage. With as dirty as mine was it was very hard to tell if any of the caps were damaged/leaking. Personally I would start there. Clean it up, inspect the caps for signs of bulging/leaking. Make sure there isn't any corrosion on the board, check all the diodes with your DMM, etc.
PS - While I think it would be unlikely the problem is on the control board, feel free to post some picks if you want me to take a glance at it.
Also, it is a completely analog power supply. There is no firmware you have to worry about, so what ever is wrong is likely fixable. But, the unit also has a 30 day return according to the seller. So...that is something you might want to consider before you spend more money on repairs. I would feel a bit odd trying to return something I modified, but then again it wouldn't be that hard to put it back into the same state you received it in.
*Pages 5-5 and 5-6 also have some test points to measure in the service manual.