Products > Test Equipment
LCR Tweezer Fnirsi ST1 vs. Zoyi MD1
Paul T:
I suggested a firmware update contains Rs logging and beep on diode detection.
I'm thinking I need both. 8)
DaneLaw:
Continuity buzzer.
MD1 got a dedicated buzzer mode, while ST1 beeps in Diode-mode.
MD1 do in fact also raise the screens update-rate with higher frequency-selected (at least in some modes)
*Click the speaker-symbol for sound, the Zoyi MD1 is maxed out on its buzzer level, to give an indication of max volume..
Zoyi MD1 - Quite a difference in reactiveness, between the Hz-modes.. Here with 10K vs 100Hz to elevate the difference in screen-response
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Fnirsi ST1 (*Btw can you toggle the secondary parameters Q,D,Z,X on the MD1, like exampled here with ST1?)
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Phil1977:
I just have both tweezers of the thread title available for comparison.
Beside being a very similar product in general, the Fnirsi ST1 is significantly more responsive. Especially in Auto-mode the ST1 may take 0.5s to show a reading after making contact with the DUT. The MD1 takes maybe 1s. It´s really not a big difference, but big enough to make a difference for me.
PS: Just checked with a potentiometer and video camera: The ST1 has an update rate of ca. 2Hz, the MD1 ca. 1.2Hz. Both devices have been set to Auto, 1kHz, 0.6V. What´s impressive with both devices is that they both do not show any visible delay for range or measurement type switching. That´s so much better than most "smart" DMMs which usually take seconds to recognize if they are connected to a cap or resistor and then have to try different ranges.
Phil1977:
I have both tweezers available up to next week. If someone has and idea for something interesting to compare then please tell me.
In the dedicated Zoyi thread was mentioned that the ST1 uses a more classical AFE with two instrumentation amplifiers before a switch while the MD1 puts the switch first to save on the BOM. Maybe this explains why the MD1 seems to be slower.
TheDefpom:
I just recorded a review for the FNIRSI and found that I could not zero them, the manual states it can be done, but in my case is doesn't actually zero, but goes down to NEGATIVE mOhm's, from power up it does -38mOhm when shorted, if I put a 100mOhm resistor on it I get about 67mOhm... trying to zero gets WORSE, down to negative 66 or so, and then negative 102mOhm or so ! if I then put the 100mOhm on it, I get about 2mOhm !
Tried all different things, no good.
It's on V1.3, tried to install V1.5... firmware doesn't take, I get the disk on the computer, and have boot loader 0% on screen, but copying the firmware .bin over results in no change at all, nothing happens, again tried doing it different ways, no good, probably because I am on a Mac rather than a PC.
UPDATE tried on a PC and got firmware updated, didn't fix the zeroing issue though, that is no different.
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