Products > Test Equipment
BM869s vs UT171B/C (was mastech MY63)
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tatel:
Wondering about getting an HVP-40 probe... so perhaps asking for some knowledge about this multimeter is in order.

I got it more than 10 years ago, maybe more than 20. I use it exclusively for AC voltages, sometimes mains. It can still be bought brand new:

https://aliexpress.com/i/32754032749.html

Is it at least half-decent for ocasional use? The guy that sold it to me said so. 1000V CAT II 600V CAT III.

I don't use it for electronics since I bought UT-61E a couple years ago. It's out of spec, I would say. Manual doesn't say so much about it. Perhaps somebody could provide a link to some generic doc about adjusting/calibrating DMMs.

Getting a Fluke is out of question but could consider getting something not so precise but electrically robust in the future.

Any thoughts?
Kleinstein:
The extra terminals for capacitor measurements can be nice for small capacitors, but they tend to defeat the protection. The CAT rating is fake anyway with a transistor tester and 250 V fuse (if used like on the lable).  It may be a bit better than the cheapest junk, but I would not count on this.  Maybe have a look inside before using it with 230 V mains.

Readjusting the meter may work, but could be tricky without instructions. There is a chance it still used old style pots and maybe just accurate resistors and no adjustment for a few parts.
RoGeorge:
I have a no-name clone of my-64, not 63 but looks identical, and I wouldn't trust any CAT ratings.  The quality varies a lot for clones.

NOT AN INSTRUMENT FOR ELECTRICIANS.

Might be a nice instrument for hobby-level electronics, good enough for casual measurements in electronics at low voltage.  Not trustworthy for mains power.  On the inside doesn't look well either.  Not very reliable in time.  The rotary switch developed shoddy contact after a few years and now it sometimes show zero when there is voltage.  This can be very dangerous when checking mains voltage.  It usually starts to show correctly again if you wiggle the rotary selector, though that disqualifies it from any kind of use.

I am keeping mine only for the 10A DC range (because for 10A range my instrument has only a thick copper wire inside, it has no fusible protection), which is useful to measure short-circuit current in 1.2V NiMH batteries (for about one second or so), so to discern between good vs. useless rechargeables.
BILLPOD:
      I LOVE the separate power button and the manual ranging, I wish some of the higher quality brands had such features :-DMM
RoGeorge:
I like DMMs with manual ranging, too, though the power button in my DMM still does auto power-off when the power button is mechanically on (pressed).  Once it auto shutdown, to start the instrument again, the power button has to be released, then pressed on again.  :-//
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