Hi,
I'm kind of confused with multimeter voltages ratings. Each meter(attached) has two different voltages ratings printed on it. Anyone knows why ?
Please check the attachment.
The grey one is RadioShack 22-811
The green one is kyoritsu Kew 1011
Best regards,
Wael
Looks like there are four in the first picture. One appears to be a case insulation rating, one the maximum the inputs to the meter and the other's safety.
The individual voltages apply to the parts of the meter where they're printed.
I see this one as the maximum voltage you should apply to that terminal when you're holding the meter in your hand (ie. YOU are the earth point at the bottom of that indicator)
The 600V indicated on that meter is obviously maximum 600V between COM and V.
it does not state the maximum voltage when testing current.
a common problem, but dangerous.
I see this one as the maximum voltage you should apply to that terminal when you're holding the meter in your hand (ie. YOU are the earth point at the bottom of that indicator)
What if the meter is hung by a magnetic strap to a grounded panel? Are you then allowed to exceed this, after all you are no longer the earth point? I wonder how they test for this in a lab. Hard to believe any meter would break down through the case at even a KV.
Hard to believe any meter would break down through the case at even a KV.
Yep, it doesn't make much sense to me.
eg. Can you reverse the leads and be safe?
given most people will have a probe in each hand, i think any talk about insulation-breakdown should start with the probes and cable!
Hard to believe any meter would break down through the case at even a KV.
Clearance is the issue. If the distance through the case join is too low it will breakdown to your hand through the join of the case rather than punching through the plastic.
Hard to believe any meter would break down through the case at even a KV.
Clearance is the issue. If the distance through the case join is too low it will breakdown to your hand through the join of the case rather than punching through the plastic.
Hard to believe any meter would break down through the case at even a KV.
May be they mean the high transient voltage ? I don't know.....
I don't remember what transient is put onto a 300V cat III system - probably about 4kV. Lets say that would need 5mm clearance, so if there is something conductive within 5mm of the outside of the case through the join it could jump to the users hand if the transient happens.
The manual should be clear about what they mean.
Manuals tend to be written by marketing people who don't know the fine detail.
I linked the manual and provided the page numbers. Was clear to me. Still hard to believe any meter would break down through the case at even a KV.
I linked the manual and provided the page numbers. Was clear to me. Still hard to believe any meter would break down through the case at even a KV.
I think it also has to do with the thing not turning into a fire cracker and physically blowing your hand off.
I linked the manual and provided the page numbers. Was clear to me. Still hard to believe any meter would break down through the case at even a KV.
I think it also has to do with the thing not turning into a fire cracker and physically blowing your hand off.
Still hard to believe any meter would break down through the case at even a KV.
Why beat a dead horse? I want to make sure that you and others are not reading more into what I posted than what is there.
I linked the manual and provided the page numbers. Was clear to me. Still hard to believe any meter would break down through the case at even a KV.
I think it also has to do with the thing not turning into a fire cracker and physically blowing your hand off.
that gives me an idea,
what would change if you had the meter casing filled with sand???
would it kill an arc like a safety fuse does??
I linked the manual and provided the page numbers. Was clear to me.
The instructions are clear and match what the graphics on the meter are telling us.
But ... it makes no sense. In both cases the CAT rating is higher than the "potential to ground" rating.
Can I only measure a 600V DC circuit with this meter if the 'neutral' wire is at -300V DC relative to ground?
(in which case it isn't very neutral, it's actually quite hostile)
Ok, well lets assume it uses some new switch technology anyway. Sand and those switches may not play well together. If the traces are so close that is can jump, the sand would not do much to stop it.
i didnt mean any perticular meter - just in general.
and obviously seals would be needed to stop it pouring out of the sockets or destroying the switches.
maybe the case could have walls in it to seperate the socket area where the high voltage stuff is and just fill that with sand.
Can I only measure a 600V DC circuit with this meter if the 'neutral' wire is at -300V DC relative to ground?
(in which case it isn't very neutral, it's actually quite hostile)
I can only assume a lack of stimulant on your part or mine.
From page 12: Never make measurement on the circuit in which electrical potential to ground over 300V AC/DC exists.
From pate 16: To avoid the danger of getting electrical shock, never make measurement on a circuit over 600V AC/DC. (electrical potential to ground 300V AC/DC)
Why do you feel you need -300V DC relative to ground to measure 600V DC?
Ok, well lets assume it uses some new switch technology anyway. Sand and those switches may not play well together. If the traces are so close that is can jump, the sand would not do much to stop it.
i didnt mean any perticular meter - just in general.
and obviously seals would be needed to stop it pouring out of the sockets or destroying the switches.
maybe the case could have walls in it to seperate the socket area where the high voltage stuff is and just fill that with sand.
I got the general statement from the get go. If you kept the sand out of the switch, maybe just keep in mind that switches have a lot of copper and in some cases, contacts are very close to one another. Expanding copper can be a fun thing to play with. Could also be deadly. Of course, there are other ways to skin this cat but never hurts to think outside the box.
https://youtu.be/xLDok9Sm07Q?list=PLZSS2ajxhiQAk2Q57Obdy-2yVNF-m_huu&t=110
Why do you feel you need -300V DC relative to ground to measure 600V DC?
What if I don't know which is the positive and which is the negative wire? (There's a fault somewhere, right?)
I might connect the COM probe to the 600V wire without knowing it.
Why do you feel you need -300V DC relative to ground to measure 600V DC?
What if I don't know which is the positive and which is the negative wire? (There's a fault somewhere, right?)
I might connect the COM probe to the 600V wire without knowing it.
If you play with the energy levels I do, it won't matter much but then you wouldn't be posting in a thread about safety. So we can assume you are working in CAT II DC and up. To be honest, I am surprised that playing with this stuff you would not know a positive from a negative wire. Or for that matter, use equipment that was not certified. That said, your interpretation of the manual is the same as mine. Normally, I if have a question about production, I turn to the manufacture. This may be one of those cases. Let me know what they have to say.