That's some real transformer beef. How about more detailed PCB shots?
The seller has more of them, no idea if some have real faults or if they are all simply configured for 220 VAC. I have NO connection to the seller, I just like what I got for 90 USD shipped. # 281926297815 for those who want to try their luck - maybe someone can get them to accept an even lower best offer.
[...] and can sink 0-15 volts at up to 2 amps. It also has the expected CV and CC modes [...]Manual says that it doesn't have CC sink capabilities. How does the sink feature actually work ? Does it actually display the real voltage when sinking ?
[...] and can sink 0-15 volts at up to 2 amps. It also has the expected CV and CC modes [...]Manual says that it doesn't have CC sink capabilities. How does the sink feature actually work ? Does it actually display the real voltage when sinking ?
Interesting to see a DSP in a power supply. What was the original purpose of these supplies?That's some real transformer beef. How about more detailed PCB shots?
Absolutely!
Pulled the trigger on a $55 offer that was accepted. Thanks for the heads up!
Definitely want to do the front-panel binding posts mod, if my unit works. Anyone know of a good quality suitable type for this?
Interesting to see a DSP in a power supply. What was the original purpose of these supplies?That's some real transformer beef. How about more detailed PCB shots?
Absolutely!
Thomas
I found one on Ebay that oughta work though since my money is not good for them.$4.99 for that plug? :wtf: Chances are it is a cheap Chinese knock-off you can by for $0.05. These pluggable terminal blocks are amongst the most cloned/copied parts!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/252223006400 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/252223006400)
I was going to pay $17 to Keysight for it. With Chinese new years I would get the Chinese one in a month and a half. This is a bargain.I found one on Ebay that oughta work though since my money is not good for them.$4.99 for that plug? :wtf: Chances are it is a cheap Chinese knock-off you can by for $0.05. These pluggable terminal blocks are amongst the most cloned/copied parts!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/252223006400 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/252223006400)
Offered $50 with the stipulation that it comes with all knobs and controls intact. He countered with $65, and I countered with $55, so yeah, it seems like $55 is the magic number. I've been curious about these for a while. Hell, more Agilent on the bench looks cool either way. :)I guess that means I'll be getting one without a knob then! :-DD
If I get one without a knob I will 3D print us one. It may not be ideal but it'll work :POffered $50 with the stipulation that it comes with all knobs and controls intact. He countered with $65, and I countered with $55, so yeah, it seems like $55 is the magic number. I've been curious about these for a while. Hell, more Agilent on the bench looks cool either way. :)I guess that means I'll be getting one without a knob then! :-DD
I'd use any knob I have around. No need to go through a lot of hassle. Besides that the rotating knob may not be very usefull. On my HP6572A it is easier to just use the keypad to enter the numbers than to endlessly rotate a knob.
The Agilent part # is 0360-2604
A google search indicates someone suggesting a Phoenix Contact 1757048 but that is not confirmed.
I see people also have them on ebay but they never seem to post the part # :)
I am using alligator clips at the moment.
Yeah most of the time I would use the keyboard but sometimes you want the knob, for instance when you're working with LEDs or LCD displays, or analog circuits sensitive to varying voltages. This way you can observe the effect as you change the voltage by turning the knob.I'd use any knob I have around. No need to go through a lot of hassle. Besides that the rotating knob may not be very usefull. On my HP6572A it is easier to just use the keypad to enter the numbers than to endlessly rotate a knob.
Indeed - the knob is nice to have but typing the value in is much quicker/easier.
Damn you Steve and your eBay deals. You had to post this didn't you? I couldn't help myself and got one for $55 also... :PWell I don't know Steve or anything about his Ebay sales, but I decided to try my luck and make an offer.
Decided to take a chance on this and got one last nite. Hope it's not too much fuss to get working, but for $55 worth a try.Well he counter offered, I woke up and saw the email but I guess they still sell during offers since the ad is closed. Oh well, wasn't meant to be.
Decided to take a chance on this and got one last nite. Hope it's not too much fuss to get working, but for $55 worth a try.Ah, you got the last one. Congrats..... Let me know how it goes or if I would have lost on it anyway. I still think it would have been a nice repair project even if it was more then a 220 to 110 jumper.
Opened it up with the service manual at the ready. It turns out that there is a spare jumper installed on the transformer! I pulled it, rearranged them accordingly, let it sit a bit, then fired it up and it works! The fan fired up, it self-tested, and is chugging along. The fan is noisy and needs to be replaced. This unit came not only without a knob, but also without a back bezel.
The spare jumper is cool - I mentioned it a while back. No rear bezel and a dim display doesn't really seem fair though. The dim display can perhaps be overlooked based on the listing but the unit should have been complete without missing hardware(other then the knob).
btw - when changing from 220 to 110 you're also supposed to install a 3.15 amp fuse. I installed a 3 amp fuse when I did the change.
btw, mine has ROM A.02.04 and the CAL date is 09/08/06
edit - played around a little. First I dumped the config/cal eeprom (93C86) so I had a backup. I then went into the board init menu but my firmware only allows 66311B, 66311D, 66309B and 66309D to be selected. I was able to exit without losing any cal data. So there is no other model I can select that is useful.
Mine arrived a few days ago. No knob, but it had a sticker on it which said "working". I opened it up anyways. Looked good. Fired it up and it appears to be working. Can't really test it until my connector arrives in a few days.
The VFD is good on it, not dim. The fan is loud, will need modding.
(https://i.imgur.com/1WFqEkU.jpg)
In either case, very happy with the score, thanks TheSteve!
btw, mine has ROM A.02.04 and the CAL date is 09/08/06
edit - played around a little. First I dumped the config/cal eeprom (93C86) so I had a backup. I then went into the board init menu but my firmware only allows 66311B, 66311D, 66309B and 66309D to be selected. I was able to exit without losing any cal data. So there is no other model I can select that is useful.
Do you have the means to read and dump the ROM A.02.04 firmware? I think it's in either a 28- or 32-pin PLCC package.
I think I have either A.02.01 or A.02.02 in my 66309D supplies and there are some additional settings available in the A.02.04 firmware. (For example whether the dual supplies switch on/off together or independently). I don't know for sure the firmware is actually the same between the 66311B, 66311D, 66309B and 66309D models.
How did you dump the config/cal eeprom (93C86)?
Yours looks positively new compared to mine. Anyone else receive one that looks as bad as mine?
The firmware should be compatible with your model. Have you checked to see what part number the ROM is? If it's compatible with a programmer/socket I have I can dump it. I read the eeprom in circuit with a UPA-USB programmer using an SOIC clip. I don't think I'd program it in circuit though unless the processor was held in reset.
The firmware should be compatible with your model. Have you checked to see what part number the ROM is? If it's compatible with a programmer/socket I have I can dump it. I read the eeprom in circuit with a UPA-USB programmer using an SOIC clip. I don't think I'd program it in circuit though unless the processor was held in reset.
The A2 board block diagram in the service manual shows it as a 4Mbit 256Kx16 part and it is an AMD part in a 44-pin PLCC package so that should make it an Am27C4096 on the 5064-0088 version of the A2 board in my 66309D. I haven't gone back to peel off the firmware version part number sticker on the OTP EPROM yet to verify that is the actual part number.
-Glen
The firmware should be compatible with your model. Have you checked to see what part number the ROM is? If it's compatible with a programmer/socket I have I can dump it. I read the eeprom in circuit with a UPA-USB programmer using an SOIC clip. I don't think I'd program it in circuit though unless the processor was held in reset.
The A2 board block diagram in the service manual shows it as a 4Mbit 256Kx16 part and it is an AMD part in a 44-pin PLCC package so that should make it an Am27C4096 on the 5064-0088 version of the A2 board in my 66309D. I haven't gone back to peel off the firmware version part number sticker on the OTP EPROM yet to verify that is the actual part number.
-Glen
Well I'm happy to give it a go if you can get me an actual part #.
Your image may make it a bit worse than it really is, because you got a lot of lighting in that picture. Mine looks much better than my Keithley 2015 which needs a new VFD, and it doesn't look very warn but my image is also in relative dark (btw I prefer working in the dark with just spotlights, can't stand glare on the screens)Mine arrived a few days ago. No knob, but it had a sticker on it which said "working". I opened it up anyways. Looked good. Fired it up and it appears to be working. Can't really test it until my connector arrives in a few days.
The VFD is good on it, not dim. The fan is loud, will need modding.
(https://i.imgur.com/1WFqEkU.jpg)
In either case, very happy with the score, thanks TheSteve!
Yours looks positively new compared to mine. Anyone else receive one that looks as bad as mine?
Cool, thanks for taking the time to dump the A.02.04 firmware. AMD Am27C2048 parts are no longer available new but Mouser has the Atmel AT27C2048 in stock for around $4 each. I'll have to pick up some blank parts and give the A.02.04 firmware a try.
I do see the COUPLE:OUTPUT string in the A.02.04 firmware binary which isn't present in the A.02.02 firmware binary. That is consistent with the User's Guide part number 5964-8125. Of course that doesn't make any difference in the single output 66311B/D models.
Also I noticed "PEEK" and "POKE" strings in the firmware binary. I wonder if those could be used to read and write the cal/config 93C86 EEPROM? I'll have to try to experiment with that.
My unit arrived today. No knob, but blue tape on the side said it was working -- and it is working. Bright, even display, checked some current & voltage settings. Control buttons all work ok.
...I think I'm going to call Keysight for a set of feet and a knob.Maybe people here would be interested in a group buy for the knob and possibly feet. That would avoid minimum order issues and probably reduce shipping costs (even after mailing out to individuals).
...
Anyone have leads on binding posts that fit into the front of the unit?
Stuart
Maybe people here would be interested in a group buy for the knob and possibly feet. That would avoid minimum order issues and probably reduce shipping costs (even after mailing out to individuals).I would likely be interested, but mine hasn't arrived yet, so will have to see what kind of shape it's in...
Not sure how painful it is to order, I think there is an automated process in the US, but in Canada it seems I need to call them...
Sounds like an interesting user added mod that needs to be removed.It certainly doesn't look user-added, as the label seems to be printed on the same sticker as all the other rear-panel markings (see attached). I can't find any reference to it in the service or user manuals, or the current product info though. The closest thing I found was the inhibit calibration switch (I CAL), but the AC bit is confusing. Most likely this is what it is though, as it says 'hold to cal'. I wonder if this is a discontinued orderable option? My unit is HP marked so it must be fairly old.
I will be doing a Keysight parts order soon if you need a knob ve7xen - however I'm in Langley and with the cost of fuel/tolls it probably wouldn't be worth your time.I might take you up on that if you don't mind just mailing a couple items to me by post. I'll PM you.
Not sure how painful it is to order, I think there is an automated process in the US, but in Canada it seems I need to call them...They're a complete pain in the arse in the U.S. - you have to get a quote for the $3.67 knob, then because they don't have a checkout system you have to either telephone or telefax (yeah, right, remember those things?) payment information like a credit card. The net result it takes someone there 15-20 min to take your order, spell out your shipping address, etc 7 times to make sure there are no errors, for a sub $5 sale. They waste both their own and your time, either of which amounts to a lot more than than the price of a plastic knob. They're just not in the modern epoch.
So I've done some additional testing/calibration, and my box does great as a power supply, well within spec per the verification procedure after calibration. However the current sink seems to have failed short. Though this would seem to short across the output rails, so perhaps it is part of the control circuitry for the 'downprogrammer' that's the problem.Keep in mind that while it can sink current, it is not programmable. The current sink will be around 1 to 2.5 A (depending on voltage at output terminals), regardless of programmed current limit.
In trying to track this down I'm finding this is by far the worst piece of HP test equipment to work on I've ever seen. All the component designators are hidden under the components, many of the test points called out in the service manual are unreachable with normal probes, and no schematic or component placement diagram seems to be available. It looks like I'm going to have to remove the A1 board to do further testing, which is also a much more arduous chore than most HP gear.
Ah well, at least it makes a great power supply if nothing else.
Keep in mind that while it can sink current, it is not programmable. The current sink will be around 1 to 2.5 A (depending on voltage at output terminals), regardless of programmed current limit.
QuoteKeep in mind that while it can sink current, it is not programmable. The current sink will be around 1 to 2.5 A (depending on voltage at output terminals), regardless of programmed current limit.
Damn, that's pretty disappointing.
I've been following this thread after I bought a similar instrument from Keithley, the 2304A. The 2304A's current sinking is programmable, you can set it for, say, 0V, 10mA, and it will act as a 10mA load (max sink is 3A). They're such similar devices that I'd assumed they had the same features. Those who are after a low power, high accuracy programmable load (a don't mind a rubbish user interface), keep the 2304A in mind, they sometimes go cheap.
So I've done some additional testing/calibration, and my box does great as a power supply, well within spec per the verification procedure after calibration. However the current sink seems to have failed short. Though this would seem to short across the output rails, so perhaps it is part of the control circuitry for the 'downprogrammer' that's the problem.Keep in mind that while it can sink current, it is not programmable. The current sink will be around 1 to 2.5 A (depending on voltage at output terminals), regardless of programmed current limit.
In trying to track this down I'm finding this is by far the worst piece of HP test equipment to work on I've ever seen. All the component designators are hidden under the components, many of the test points called out in the service manual are unreachable with normal probes, and no schematic or component placement diagram seems to be available. It looks like I'm going to have to remove the A1 board to do further testing, which is also a much more arduous chore than most HP gear.
Ah well, at least it makes a great power supply if nothing else.
I'm looking at the user manual, "USER’S GUIDE Agilent Model 66111A Fast Transient DC Source Agilent Model 66311B/D, 66309B/D Mobile Communications DC Source", Agilent Part No. 5964-8125, Page 144 "Supplemental Characteristics". The note given for the sink current states:So I've done some additional testing/calibration, and my box does great as a power supply, well within spec per the verification procedure after calibration. However the current sink seems to have failed short. Though this would seem to short across the output rails, so perhaps it is part of the control circuitry for the 'downprogrammer' that's the problem.Keep in mind that while it can sink current, it is not programmable. The current sink will be around 1 to 2.5 A (depending on voltage at output terminals), regardless of programmed current limit.
In trying to track this down I'm finding this is by far the worst piece of HP test equipment to work on I've ever seen. All the component designators are hidden under the components, many of the test points called out in the service manual are unreachable with normal probes, and no schematic or component placement diagram seems to be available. It looks like I'm going to have to remove the A1 board to do further testing, which is also a much more arduous chore than most HP gear.
Ah well, at least it makes a great power supply if nothing else.
Thanks I will look into this when I return home next week. From my reading of the verification procedure it seemed that it was programmable, and the block diagram does seem to show a constant current loop around the downprogramming regulator, so I'm not so sure that's the case, but you're probably right. I was seeing the 66311B put my 3.5A power supply into CC mode at 3.5A, while the display on the 66311B would show the setpoint on the current readback, which seemed a bit weird to me.
...
1 The sink current decreases linearly from 2.8A @ 0 V to 1.2 A @ 15 V. Sink current does not track the programmed current.Also on page 26,
Figure 2-1 also shows a single range ? two quadrant capability. This means that the dc source is capableThis really is too bad.
of sourcing as well as sinking current over the output voltage range from zero volts to the rated voltage.
This negative current sinking capability provides fast downprogramming of the output of the dc source. It
can also be used to sink current from a battery charger, thus providing battery charger test capability. The
negative current is not programmable, and varies linearly from approximately 1.2 amperes at the full
rated voltage, to approximately 2.8 amperes at zero output voltage.".
So it seems that Keysight Canada has a minimum $50 order. :(
I'm not certain what shipping is
The parts I need are:
Feet: 5041-8801 $19 CAD (I'm assuming that it contains 4 feet, not 1 foot although you never know) The fellow at Keysight told me he didn't know if it was 1 foot or 4 feet as the parts don't show up on their system. He said it's an Agilent product and referred me to Agilent who said that it's a Keysight device and part and they don't sell parts.... |O
Knob:33120-87401 $3.67
Is anyone coordinating a group buy to get over the minimum?
I'm certainly happy to pay for a share of the order + shipping + handling + pain and suffering
Stuart
Yesterday I replaced the loud fan with a quiet Vantec temp controlled fan. Much better!
QuoteYesterday I replaced the loud fan with a quiet Vantec temp controlled fan. Much better!
Out of curiosity, what do you do with the 3rd wire (yellow) on the Vantec fan?
The knob has arrived. They shipped it in a massive box.
The unit looks a bit nicer now. :)
...Having never soldered PLCC by hand before, I didn't realize that this package is the spawn of Satan. After some fiddling around I got that installed. Added two bodge wires to the VFD pins in place of the pads I had damaged while removing the dead IC with a poor technique. A lot of hassle would have been saved if I had a hot air station...Good work on the successful repair.
Thanks for the tip. This is actually what I tried, but using a sharp x-acto knife to cut the leads, which has worked well for me before on (T)SO packages. The cutting pressure was a bit much and a couple pads tore off, so I switched to heat shielding the rest of the board and using the heat gun... I didn't think to try side cutters which there might just have been enough room for. Next time :)....Having never soldered PLCC by hand before, I didn't realize that this package is the spawn of Satan. After some fiddling around I got that installed. Added two bodge wires to the VFD pins in place of the pads I had damaged while removing the dead IC with a poor technique. A lot of hassle would have been saved if I had a hot air station...Good work on the successful repair.
Next time that you need to replace a PLCC, remember that you are trying to save the board, not the dead device. Clip all the leads off close to the package, remove the legless black blob, then desolder pins one by one easy as pie. Use some braid the clean up the pads, and you are ready to solder on the replacement, which is a much easier task than removal.
stuartk: I am definitely in for one knob in a group buy.
Although the dc source can operate in either mode, it is designed as a constant voltage source. This means that the unit turns on in constant voltage mode with the output voltage rising to its Vset value. There is no command for constant current operation. The only way to turn the unit on in constant current mode is by placing a short across the output and then enabling or turning the output on.
Hi Steve,
Nice banana jacks for the output. Where did you route the sense wires to?
You can buy a chinese 10 pack no noname ones for 3.89, ebay # 262238741920Thanks for the link. For that price they are surely low quality. On the other hand, how bad can it be given the very simple function?
Of course they might be decent, they might be total crap.
I was able to find genuine Pomonas on Digikey (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/pomona-electronics/72930-2/501-1228-ND/1196362) for 2.60 each. I think I'll throw a couple in with my next Digikey order.
QuoteI was able to find genuine Pomonas on Digikey (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/pomona-electronics/72930-2/501-1228-ND/1196362) for 2.60 each. I think I'll throw a couple in with my next Digikey order.
The problem with the Pomonas one is you can't attach bare wire to it. For a PSU I would prefer a version that allows bare wire.
QuoteI was able to find genuine Pomonas on Digikey (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/pomona-electronics/72930-2/501-1228-ND/1196362) for 2.60 each. I think I'll throw a couple in with my next Digikey order.
The problem with the Pomonas one is you can't attach bare wire to it. For a PSU I would prefer a version that allows bare wire.
I don't like these at all. I rather have proper binding posts which take bare wire and 4mm banana. I have modified various pieces of equipment to have such binding posts.Sure you can! Just grab one of these: Pomona MDP Double Banana Plug (http://www.pomonaelectronics.com/pdf/d_MDP-4892-4898_102.pdf)QuoteI was able to find genuine Pomonas on Digikey (http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/pomona-electronics/72930-2/501-1228-ND/1196362) for 2.60 each. I think I'll throw a couple in with my next Digikey order.The problem with the Pomonas one is you can't attach bare wire to it. For a PSU I would prefer a version that allows bare wire.
Got some binding post but it didn't have a hole for the bare wire so I drilled a hole myself.Your sense wires should twist around each other, not around the current-carrying wires. Likewise, the current carrying wires should also be twisted with each other. They way you have done this, current fluctuations will induce voltages in the sense wires, messing with voltage regulation and possibly even causing stability issues.
Didn't want to solder the wires to the PCB so I routed it to the outside. Not as neat but it will do.
...
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/my-poor-mans-smu-the-agilent-66311b/?action=dlattach;attach=215211;image)
...
I like the look of the binding posts as well, very much a factory look to them.Yeah, me too. I don't mind a trailing lead from the back but there isn't strain relief unless one cable ties the test lead to the fan grille.
Nice to hear you've brought it back to life!
Does anyone know how to remove the front panel board from the front panel chassis? The service manual suggests I pull the board back 1/8th of an inch near the encoder, but I can't feel any compliance and fear breaking the board if I do so.
Thanks! Not sure how I missed the encoder being secured to the front panel chassis (although it's not mentioned in the disassembly procedure). :palm:Does anyone know how to remove the front panel board from the front panel chassis? The service manual suggests I pull the board back 1/8th of an inch near the encoder, but I can't feel any compliance and fear breaking the board if I do so.
First you need to undo the nut on the encoder, then bend the tab on the board (see the pic) slightly so that it can go past the plastic stop, then you must be able to slide the board a few millimeters from under the hooks.
My SMU's front panel lets me select "AUTO" current ranging. What's the SCPI command to enter and leave auto-range mode? I couldn't find it in the manual.
I tried downloading the firmware image posted in this thread, but couldn't find any strings in it. Is the image obfuscated or compressed?My SMU's front panel lets me select "AUTO" current ranging. What's the SCPI command to enter and leave auto-range mode? I couldn't find it in the manual.
Perhaps you can look in strings section of the firmware if there's an undocumented SCPI command.
Few bugs to iron out... in mine the decimal points for the display of current voltage and current on the left are missing (displaying 100000 instead of 1.0V)
But, for storing data files (like CSV), I assume that you would want to use periods as decimal points?Getting that right is a study in it's own. The quickest solution is to make sure you use the local language setting. This may require extra initialisation in your software.
But, for storing data files (like CSV), I assume that you would want to use periods as decimal points?Getting that right is a study in it's own. The quickest solution is to make sure you use the local language setting. This may require extra initialisation in your software.
Your last commit has a bug in ApplyProgram_Click.
......
so you don't actually populate the details with values in textbox fields.
I decided that not having a knob was unacceptable, and have been wanting to try having small parts printed by a 3D printing house, so figured modelling and having a knob printed would be a good exercise.
Based on the photos here and at the Agilent Find-A-Part, plus some measurements of my actual unit, I did my best at a model in OnShape (shown is not exactly what was printed, I made some refinements):
(http://gotroot.ca/media/agilent_knob_model.jpeg)
I had the design printed by Sculpteo, using their SLS process, in 'polished beige plastic'. With express shipping it cost about $15 and arrived in a week.
Overall I am happy with the result. The only flaw was that the printing process left about 0.1mm extra clearance around the knob shaft. I had expected 'expansion' and not 'shrinkage' so had modeled to exactly the shaft dimensions, so now it's a bit sloppy. The STL I exported was also somewhat 'low res', resulting in the stepped appearance. I have changed the model to make the knob about 1mm taller, since it seems a bit shorter than the real one, added 0.1mm total interference on the shaft dimensions to make it tighter, and exported at a higher fidelity. I don't intend to reprint, as I think what I've got will be perfectly functional.
(http://gotroot.ca/media/agilent_knob_photo1.jpg)
(http://gotroot.ca/media/agilent_knob_photo2.jpg)
I have made the model public on OnShape, so you can copy it to your own workspace and modify as you see fit:
https://cad.onshape.com/documents/2770017399f21096171bcc75/w/82d82831cbaa64cec2e5b5a7/e/d79452ab36c21b057637b9b5 (https://cad.onshape.com/documents/2770017399f21096171bcc75/w/82d82831cbaa64cec2e5b5a7/e/d79452ab36c21b057637b9b5)
You can also download an STL file for direct printing here (note this is a refined model that I have not myself printed):
http://gotroot.ca/media/agilent_knob_model.stl (http://gotroot.ca/media/agilent_knob_model.stl)
- the thing is now spinning but noisy as h.. :) But very precise and works well.
Last but not least I replaced the fan. I used a Noctua NF-A6x25 FLX (60x60x25mm) fan which has half the airflow and pressure compared to the original fan. But since my PSU only has 1 channel and HP/Agilent tends to oversize the fans anyway I'm sure it won't be a problem.
Wow it's really slow to kick into CC mode with a resistive load! 220ms. My hypothesis is that the loads above would appear as nearly a dead short to the supply, pulling enough current to hit the 'peak' current limiter, and then ending up in CC mode after that. With the resistor, 14V/50R is only 280mA, so it runs that way for a while before the regular loop notices.I know that post is 4.5 years old... I've bought an older version of 66311B (which is called "through hole pcb" in the service manual). Initially I thought that slow switching to CC mode is a fault of my unit. Especially after the seller confirmed that his 66311B is faster. Then it appeared that he was using a newer revision for the test.
Note that certain models in the range (maybe just the dual output ones?) are GPIB only some reason
Nope any of the 663xx series is gpib only unfortunately. You have rs232 in the 663x series.
As said this is another reason why to hack the fw to support serial also on this series (as the CPU board is almost the same).
MSBuild "D:\progs\HP663xxCtrl-master\HP663xxCtrl.sln" /t:Rebuild /p:Configuration=Release /p:Platform="Any CPU"I will upload my version that add some features (nothing interesting) taken from the other program that the same user did. Like the option to set a display text. I also fix a bug. I probably will fork the code from the repo if it is not archived.
I really thing we should develop slightly the program ro improve the layout and add the missing features anyway.
There are a very well written programs here:
https://github.com/Niravk1997/663x2A-663xB-661xC-System-DC-Power-Supply-Software
https://github.com/Niravk1997/DC-Power-Efficiency-Measurement-Software