Need a new fuse for my ANENG AN870 (I'm in the UK)

[HobGoblyn]

Hi all, I need a new 200mA 250v  fuse after being stupid (I'm new to electronics)

It appears to be a ceramic fuse, 30mm long and says F200maL 250v

I can find 20mm ones or 30mm glass ones, but not 30mm ceramic

Any advice greatly received

Thanks

[AVGresponding]

Is it one of these?

https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Altech/02M5X30M?qs=8a0hyeKx4nUPOEuh279GNA%3D%3D

[HobGoblyn]

Is it one of these?

https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Altech/02M5X30M?qs=8a0hyeKx4nUPOEuh279GNA%3D%3D

Thanks, that would do fine, only problem is that with delivery, it works out at £14.14 for 1 fuse

[AVGresponding]

You get free shipping with these guys at £33 and over (ex vat), I always wait until I find enough stuff to reach the target.

IIRC RS have a £20 limit for free shipping, and they'll certainly have them too I should think.


EDIT: Had a quick look, and surprisingly RS don't have 'em... just glass ones in that size, which have a lower breaking capacity. Same for the other suppliers I have bookmarked... clearly there's a good reason Mouser are at the top of my list!   
Quite a few 1/4" x 1 1/4" (6 x 32mm) are available, this might be worth considering if the fuseholder will accept these without undue stress.

[Trader]

Buy directly from Aneng, both 0.2A and 10A (they also have 20A)

Ceramic fuse tube 5X20mm 10*200hA + 10*10A

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000563807136.html

[Monkeh]

Buy directly from Aneng, both 0.2A and 10A (they also have 20A)

Ceramic fuse tube 5X20mm 10*200hA + 10*10A

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000563807136.html

That's.. the wrong size fuse.. And they're unlikely to ship any time soon.

[tooki]

Hi all, I need a new 200mA 250v  fuse after being stupid (I'm new to electronics)

It appears to be a ceramic fuse, 30mm long and says F200maL 250v

I can find 20mm ones or 30mm glass ones, but not 30mm ceramic

Any advice greatly received

Thanks

Are you absolutely, 100% sure it’s just 5mm diameter? Aneng’s own AliExpress shop lists 6x30mm fuses, and my hunch is that the design is probably for 6.3x32mm, which is a standard fuse size that is widely available, including as purpose-made multimeter fuses. 6.0x30mm is well within the tolerances of a fuse holder made for 6.3x32mm (and vice versa).

Here’s the Aneng product link: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000563760641.html

[tooki]

And while it’s much more expensive than the Aneng part, here’s a compatible fuse from a reputable european reseller: https://www.reichelt.com/gb/en/fuse-6x32mm-600v-200ma-f-ut-f04-p239075.html

Though if it were me, I’d probably just get the much cheaper 250mA version, since the extra 200mA are unlikely to make any difference whatsoever: https://www.reichelt.com/gb/en/fuse-6-3-x-32-mm-1000-v-0-25-a-ar-ff-mms-p7600-p142812.html

[HobGoblyn]

]Are you absolutely, 100% sure it’s just 5mm diameter? Aneng’s own AliExpress shop lists 6x30mm fuses, and my hunch is that the design is probably for 6.3x32mm, which is a standard fuse size that is widely available, including as purpose-made multimeter fuses. 6.0x30mm is well within the tolerances of a fuse holder made for 6.3x32mm (and vice versa).

Here’s the Aneng product link: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000563760641.html

No.  It's 6mm x 30mm

[tooki]

OK, perfect. I think if I were you, I'd order the pack of fuses from Aneng from China, and if you need to use the meter before they arrive, buy a regular glass fuse locally to use (on low-energy circuits only!) until the ceramic fuses arrive, or if you really need a ceramic fuse immediately, then order a single one from a western vendor. I'd still order the Chinese ones to keep around.

[Fungus]

buy a regular glass fuse locally to use (on low-energy circuits only!) until the ceramic fuses arrive, or if you really need a ceramic fuse immediately, then order a single one from a western vendor.

Would you really use this meter on high energy circuits? 

The meter has spring clips, probably any size that's close will do.

And if it's 250mA instead of 200mA, not really a problem. Anything that will blow a 200mA fuse will blow a 250mA fuse almost as easily.

[tooki]

buy a regular glass fuse locally to use (on low-energy circuits only!) until the ceramic fuses arrive, or if you really need a ceramic fuse immediately, then order a single one from a western vendor.

Would you really use this meter on high energy circuits? 

With a proper DMM fuse installed, only as “high” as a household AC outlet, and then only briefly because for some reason none of my Fluke or Keysight DMMs was around. :p (Not to diss Aneng in any way, I have an AN8008 and like it a lot, I just respect what it is and isn’t.)

The meter has spring clips, probably any size that's close will do.

And if it's 250mA instead of 200mA, not really a problem. Anything that will blow a 200mA fuse will blow a 250mA fuse almost as easily.

Cool, thanks for confirming my hunches on those two points!

[Fungus]

Would you really use this meter on high energy circuits? 

With a proper DMM fuse installed, only as “high” as a household AC outlet, and then only briefly because for some reason none of my Fluke or Keysight DMMs was around. :p (Not to diss Aneng in any way, I have an AN8008 and like it a lot, I just respect what it is and isn’t.)

If the leads are in the voltage socket then the fuse isn't part of the circuit. The fuse is only there for when you get that part wrong.

(which you would never do because you engage brain and triple check, right? )

Cool, thanks for confirming my hunches on those two points!

If brain isn't engaged when you use a multimeter on power circuits then having a 200mA vs. a 250mA fuse won't make a lot of difference.

[tooki]

You can stop it with the patronizing wording, OK, Fungus? I don’t know why you’re being argumentative.

Yes, I know the fuses are only for current measurements. But the fuses aren’t there for when everything goes right. The fuses are there for when you make a mistake, and even with the brain engaged and triple checked*, mistakes happen in the real world. So does the unexpected.

*for example, if you’ve triple checked the connections, but a fault has caused something to become energized that shouldn’t be, and you don’t know this because, well, you’re still trying to track down why the thing isn’t working... Or you misread a blurry schematic, so you triple check and it’s still wrong.

[Fungus]

*for example, if you’ve triple checked the connections, but a fault has caused something to become energized that shouldn’t be, and you don’t know this because, well, you’re still trying to track down why the thing isn’t working... Or you misread a blurry schematic, so you triple check and it’s still wrong.

If you're sticking the probes in something that could be energized and the leads/switch on the meter are on "Amps" then you're doing it wrong.

If you work on that sort of circuit regularly then get a meter without amps or take the fuses out of the meter before you start work.

You can stop it with the patronizing wording, OK, Fungus? I don’t know why you’re being argumentative.

I'm not. I'm talking to the world in general, including the newbies who just found this thread after they searched for "ANENG 870 Fuse" and I don't want anybody to misunderstand the point being made. If that makes me sound like an idiot, then...   

[AVGresponding]

Looking at your pics, that's a 1/4" x 1 1/4" fuse; the diameter is indicated as 6.30mm on that micrometer, and the length is less important. The way they are manufactured means they are often shorter than the spec, due to the end caps being press fitted with the fuse wire itself being folded over the end of the ceramic tube and therefore trapped between the cap and tube. The 1 1/4" or 32mm is a maximum. The critical physical measurement is the diameter.

I'd look for a 1/4" x 1 1/4" or 6.3 x 32mm fuse, using a 6mm diameter one in a 6.3mm holder will likely cause a bad contact.

[tooki]

You can stop it with the patronizing wording, OK, Fungus? I don’t know why you’re being argumentative.

I'm not. I'm talking to the world in general, including the newbies who just found this thread after they searched for "ANENG 870 Fuse" and I don't want anybody to misunderstand the point being made. If that makes me sound like an idiot, then...   

Your intent may be well-meaning, but you're not adding anything helpful here. You're just being argumentative. I didn't say you sound like an idiot. I said you are being argumentative and patronizing.

*for example, if you’ve triple checked the connections, but a fault has caused something to become energized that shouldn’t be, and you don’t know this because, well, you’re still trying to track down why the thing isn’t working... Or you misread a blurry schematic, so you triple check and it’s still wrong.

If you're sticking the probes in something that could be energized and the leads/switch on the meter are on "Amps" then you're doing it wrong.

I think you're just being argumentative again. (And all this argument because I suggested NOT using the meter on high-energy circuits when not equipped with the correct fuse...  )

My point is this: one can do everything right and still encounter something unexpected. Why? Because mistakes happen, and it might not be your mistake. Or anyone's mistake, in the case of a fault that wasn't caused by human error.

If you work on that sort of circuit regularly then get a meter without amps or take the fuses out of the meter before you start work.

And if the troubleshooting of said device requires you to measure current, how exactly would you do that on a meter castrated that way? (Not everything can be done with a clamp.)

[Fungus]

If you're sticking the probes in something that could be (lethally) energized and the leads/switch on the meter are on "Amps" then you're doing it wrong.

I think you're just being argumentative again.

Nope. I honestly believe that there's a better way to do that job.

Whatever your beliefs, I think I can state that if anybody is trying to use a multimeter in a way where a slightly "wrong" 200mA-range-fuse could make a difference in personal safety then they need to pack up their meter and head home.

(eg. 250mA instead of 200mA, as was being discussed here)

And if the troubleshooting of said device requires you to measure current, how exactly would you do that on a meter castrated that way? (Not everything can be done with a clamp.)

I dunno. Give us a concrete example of such a measurement and we can discuss it.   

[tooki]

If you're sticking the probes in something that could be (lethally) energized and the leads/switch on the meter are on "Amps" then you're doing it wrong.

I think you're just being argumentative again.

Nope. I honestly believe that there's a better way to do that job.

Whatever your beliefs, I think I can state that if anybody is trying to use a multimeter in a way where a slightly "wrong" 200mA-range-fuse could make a difference in personal safety then they need to pack up their meter and head home.

(eg. 250mA instead of 200mA, as was being discussed here)

Uh, no, the issue at hand wasn't 250mA vs 200mA, but rather plain glass fuse vs. ceramic DMM fuse. My exact words:

OK, perfect. I think if I were you, I'd order the pack of fuses from Aneng from China, and if you need to use the meter before they arrive, buy a regular glass fuse locally to use (on low-energy circuits only!) until the ceramic fuses arrive, or if you really need a ceramic fuse immediately, then order a single one from a western vendor. I'd still order the Chinese ones to keep around.

I only mentioned 250 vs 200mA to say that the 50mA difference doesn't matter, which you agreed with.

I never, ever claimed that the glass fuse was equivalent to a ceramic DMM fuse. (On the contrary, this was literally the whole point of my warning.) There damned well is a huge difference in how those behave regarding personal safety!!

And if the troubleshooting of said device requires you to measure current, how exactly would you do that on a meter castrated that way? (Not everything can be done with a clamp.)

I dunno. Give us a concrete example of such a measurement and we can discuss it.   

Nah, not indulging your argument-for-sport.

[HobGoblyn]

Reading the last few posts, If you’re interested in how I blew the fuse https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/getting-confused-with-the-basics-and-using-my-power-supply/