My 860B+ turned up today.
I really like it. It's definitely worth every penny of $20. I have a feeling I'll use it a lot more than the AN8008.
If I have to recommend a cheapo meter for a beginner, this is the one.
(until they release the mini version - I had a peek inside and I think there's actually less components in this meter than in the AN8008. They'd have no trouble at all making it smaller. Please, ANENG...! )
Does it have the AC measurement bug? If you switch from DC to AC it may show low AC voltage.
Does it have the AC measurement bug? If you switch from DC to AC it may show low AC voltage.
Info?
I just connected it to a 5V supply in DC mode then switched to AC. The reading went down to zero (as expected).
Does it have the AC measurement bug? If you switch from DC to AC it may show low AC voltage.
Info?
I just connected it to a 5V supply in DC mode then switched to AC. The reading went down to zero (as expected).
I think that's from Joe's video:
https://youtu.be/4PjmFqzlfLc?t=1542
Does it have the AC measurement bug? If you switch from DC to AC it may show low AC voltage.
Info?
I just connected it to a 5V supply in DC mode then switched to AC. The reading went down to zero (as expected).
Does it have the AC measurement bug? If you switch from DC to AC it may show low AC voltage.
Info?
I just connected it to a 5V supply in DC mode then switched to AC. The reading went down to zero (as expected).
I think that's from Joe's video:
https://youtu.be/4PjmFqzlfLc?t=1542
Oh, I didn't know joe had done this one. Well... there you have all the accuracy testing results!
(edit: His is called a KT6000 not an AN860B+, but it's the same meter)
One weird thing. I noticed there's a little mark on the plastic under the "OFF" indicator, like a scuff mark. Joe has one too! Maybe they came out of the same mold.
(from joe's video)
Joe paid $37? I got mine for $22 from the ANENG official store.
Measure some AC voltage (outlet?) and see if it reads correctly.
The bug shows low AC voltage when switching from DC even through there should be 220VAC or something.
Measure some AC voltage (outlet?) and see if it reads correctly.
Scary!The bug shows low AC voltage when switching from DC even through there should be 220VAC or something.I put my big gloves and Raybans on and tried it. Nothing exploded.
I switched from AC to DC a couple of times. It always read 230V in AC mode, no problem.
(230V is correct for Spain)
Those Raybans must have saved a lot of lives.
Does AC work differently for you?
I can't wait until mine arrives (well, yet another brand). I can't actually do any advanced testing (I don't have any precision references or higher end multimeters to compare to), but let us know how happy you are with yours.
I checked with a bench PSU - the diode test voltage is independent of the battery voltage - there's a charge-pump circuit and a separate regulator built into the IC. The fact it is suspiciously close to the voltage of 2 fresh AAs is a coincidence
The test leads I got were the same as the AN8002 and AN8008.
I have the same marking just below the "OFF" text. Hadn't noticed that until just now...
Measure some AC voltage (outlet?) and see if it reads correctly. The bug shows low AC voltage when switching from DC even through there should be 220VAC or something.
Measure some AC voltage (outlet?) and see if it reads correctly. The bug shows low AC voltage when switching from DC even through there should be 220VAC or something.I have two AN8002, one blue and orange.
With rotary selector in V position the yellow button toggles between DC and AC on the orange meter. Placing the test leads in a wall socket and pressing the yellow button alternates between 234V AC and 0V DC. Ok.
With rotary selector in V position the yellow button toggles between DC, AC, Hz and % on the blue meter. Placing the test leads in a wall socket and pressing the yellow button displays the horrible sequence 0V DC, 234V AC, 50Hz, 50%, 0V DC, 2VAC... Showing safe 2V AC with 234V AC on the input is NOT Ok.
The orange meter has Hz and % on mV position instead. Weird.
Btw, the orange meter has a later serial number.
How is the low current and voltage accuracy compared to the AN8008? Having a cheap and accurate meter is great for lower voltage bench work, but I am unsure which would suit me better.
The lowest voltage range is 60mV so that's 10uV resolution.
The lowest current range is 600uA so that's 0.1uA resolution.
An AN8008 has an extra digit on both of those ranges.
(those two ranges are the main reason to buy an AN8008, IMHO)
FWIW the AN860B+s weak points seem to be:
a) Frequency measurement. It only goes up to about 10kHz (according to the manual).
b) The TrueRMS frequency is also quite limited.
AN860B+ is the best all-rounder.
To get complete functionality you'll need two small ones: eg. AN8002+AN8008.
If you already own some meters then you can buy small ones to fill in the gaps.
The lowest voltage range is 60mV so that's 10uV resolution.
The lowest current range is 600uA so that's 0.1uA resolution.
An AN8008 has an extra digit on both of those ranges.
(those two ranges are the main reason to buy an AN8008, IMHO)
The lowest voltage range is 60mV so that's 10uV resolution.
The lowest current range is 600uA so that's 0.1uA resolution.
An AN8008 has an extra digit on both of those ranges.I guess the AN8008 wins out.
Does it have the AC measurement bug? If you switch from DC to AC it may show low AC voltage.
Info?
I just connected it to a 5V supply in DC mode then switched to AC. The reading went down to zero (as expected).
I think that's from Joe's video:
https://youtu.be/4PjmFqzlfLc?t=1542