Products > Test Equipment
Need help! Test bench equipment recommendations. $2k+ budget
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tautech:
KCB
These 3M ATG700 adhesive transfer guns would be my first choice for re-sticking labels:
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_LB/p/d/v000076379/

This one from Scotch could be useful too:
https://www.scotchbrand.com/3M/en_US/scotch-brand/products/catalog/~/Scotch-Adhesive-Dot-Roller/?N=4335+3294529207+3294603441&rt=rud
kcbrown:

--- Quote from: tautech on March 31, 2022, 11:44:15 pm ---KCB
These 3M ATG700 adhesive transfer guns would be my first choice for re-sticking labels:
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_LB/p/d/v000076379/

This one from Scotch could be useful too:
https://www.scotchbrand.com/3M/en_US/scotch-brand/products/catalog/~/Scotch-Adhesive-Dot-Roller/?N=4335+3294529207+3294603441&rt=rud

--- End quote ---

How strong is the adhesive in those?  Remember that the goal is to make it possible to peel the sticker off of the scope by hand without damaging it, so as to make it relatively easy to remove the front plastic panel if that should prove necessary.
tautech:

--- Quote from: kcbrown on April 01, 2022, 01:26:07 am ---
--- Quote from: tautech on March 31, 2022, 11:44:15 pm ---KCB
These 3M ATG700 adhesive transfer guns would be my first choice for re-sticking labels:
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_LB/p/d/v000076379/

This one from Scotch could be useful too:
https://www.scotchbrand.com/3M/en_US/scotch-brand/products/catalog/~/Scotch-Adhesive-Dot-Roller/?N=4335+3294529207+3294603441&rt=rud

--- End quote ---

How strong is the adhesive in those?  Remember that the goal is to make it possible to peel the sticker off of the scope by hand without damaging it, so as to make it relatively easy to remove the front plastic panel if that should prove necessary.

--- End quote ---
Pretty strong but it depends on the surface substrate how well they hold together.
The large dispenser gun we stick light card nonglossy business cards to catalogues with a single 20mm strip of glue and they won't come off without one or the other tearing or delaminating.
Years ago I used it to stick a 1/4" glass pull tab to a sliding glass panel and it stayed put and worked great whereas a previous one stuck down with epoxy stressed the glass and it broke.

Flexy vinyl label to thermoplastic housing I would have no hesitation like for X+ however I do know you can get the sticker in question from Siglent NA as member mwyatt needed one for his X+ when it had an accident with liquids and he had to fully strip and wash it to recover it.
geneonline:

--- Quote from: kcbrown on March 31, 2022, 08:51:26 pm ---
--- Quote ---How was the process swapping the encoders?

--- End quote ---

The main issue was with disconnecting and reconnecting the ribbon cables that connect to the encoder board, a necessity because removal of the encoder board is a prerequisite of getting to the backside of it to desolder the offending encoders.  There are two of these ribbon cables, one on the side of the encoder board and one on the top, and both are connected to the underside of the encoder board. 

The ribbon on the top goes through a slot in the plate the motherboard attaches to (and which provides structure that the motherboard, the encoder board, and the display all attach to) and attaches to the primary side of the motherboard.  This has to be disconnected first.  There is very little room to work with here (well, relative to my clumsy fingers, at any rate), because the position of the connector on the motherboard is very close to the lip of the plate (this makes reattaching the cable even more difficult than removing it).  There is tape that is used to secure the ribbon in place, and you have to lift that first before you can unlatch the connector and remove the ribbon. 

For the cable on the side, the display is in the way and has to be moved out of the way, and there are a number of connections to the display, enough that it's better to just lay the display upside down, pivoting from its bottom where its main ribbon connector is.  Once the display is out of the way, removing the side ribbon from the encoder board isn't really a problem.  It, too, is secured with tape, which of course has to be lifted before the connector's latch can be disengaged.  I tried to do this without moving the display, and managed to succeed, but it would have been a lot easier if I had moved the display as I described.  I ended up having to move the display in order to reconnect this ribbon cable."


"I'm on the latest version of the firmware.  Believe me, my issue was most certainly a hardware issue.  Because of that, I have to throw my prior experience with the front panel out the window.  It's just not valid to presume that the issues are still present when this particular hardware issue might have been causing problems for the entire front panel, even if I can't think of a way that it could that was consistent with my overall experience (argument from incredulity is a logical fallacy, after all.  :) ).

Dave's teardown annoyingly skips over the majority of the disassembly process, and he never disassembled it to the point of getting at the encoder board.  Getting to the encoder board requires removal of the front bezel assembly, which requires removal of the sticker that shows the colors of the inputs and other information.  There are three screws behind that sticker.  Removing this without damaging it required the use of a heat gun (on low setting: 100 degC for mine, as low as it would go) and a plastic razor blade. 

--- End quote ---

I will be following these instructions in detail if I ever need to open it up once the scope is out of warranty. Saw a few posts that Siglent takes pretty good care fixing somethings. Hopefully I don't have a similar annoyances plaguing when mine shows up.



--- Quote ---Pretty much.  There are a few quirks with the decoding, for instance: it'll only decode what's present on the screen, even if what's on the screen is only a subset of what was captured.  The scope itself uses a "what you see is all you get" approach to capture.  There's lots of threads on this, but the upshot is that the screen boundaries define the time boundaries of the capture, making it trivial to know exactly what you're going to get in the capture.  This tends to throw off some people, who expect the scope to use the entirety of memory for that single capture No Matter What.  You can get this scope to use the entirety of memory by increasing the time per division until the amount of memory shown in the timebase box stops increasing (of course, this presumes you've told the scope that the maximum amount of memory it should use for a capture is the amount of memory it actually has, otherwise it'll use the remaining memory to retain prior captures).  This is where zoom mode comes into its own.  You put the entire capture on the main screen, and use the zoom mode screen to show the portion of the capture that you're interested in.

There are other little annoyances.  For instance, if you've got the table of decoded values showing, you cannot use it to go to the portion of the capture that contains the value you've selected. 

But overall, the scope is really awesome.



--- Quote ---Would you be able to speak in detail how your experiences were in regard if other Siglent devices, if you own, have the a similar issue?

--- End quote ---

I have an SDS-1204X-E as well.  It doesn't have the encoder issue we're talking about here (nothing else I have does, not like that).  It does have a problem with the UI locking up solid on me if I leave it on for really extended periods of time (many weeks).  This is a bug in the firmware for sure.  I know this because I sent my scope in to have it checked out, they weren't really able to reproduce the issue consistently enough to determine a root cause (no surprise, given the amount of time it takes to see the issue), they sent me a replacement (different hardware version and everything), and the replacement turns out to have the very same issue.  The UI is recoverable if you're able to connect to the scope over the network when it gets into this state.  Otherwise you have to forcibly power the scope off (hold the power button down like you would a laptop) and power it on again.

My SDS-2104X+ doesn't have that problem.  I've left it on continuously and it always responds when I do something (encoder issues notwithstanding) even after weeks of inactivity.

Since I own both the SDS-2104X+ and the SDS-1204X-E and have experience with both, I can tell you from experience that the SDS-2104X+ is easily worth the price of admission if you can stretch for it.  Its implementation of zoom mode by itself is worth the price of admission: it's done properly in the SDS-2104X+.  Even the mask test is capable of being used in zoom mode.  It makes up for all (or nearly all.  There may be something I'm overlooking) of the shortcomings of the "what you see is all you get" capture approach that Siglent (and, apparently, LeCroy) uses.

--- End quote ---

I officially ordered the SDS-2104X+! I was heavily second guessing between the two models you've mentioned. This was just the little push I needed to stop debating. The SDS-1204x-e is one heck of a bang for buck in a small box. Some of the other deciding factors were in a lot of the screen shots of the sds1k line. It just didnt have the same clean lay out of the SDS2K and some menu's would over lap onto your graphs. I was unsure if the resolution would have been the same interfacing through a pc. Honestly, I wasn't feeling too confident seeing all the menus inside of more menus and info readily inaccessible. I would possible fall into a routine and continually never find functions being buried under menu selections. I will still have that problem, but won't feel as cramped on screen. If everything continues to work as intended, I will keep this for a very long time where ever I go. Glad I won't feel that haunting question" I wish I should have gotten the next model up".


--- Quote from: tautech on March 31, 2022, 11:44:15 pm ---KCB
These 3M ATG700 adhesive transfer guns would be my first choice for re-sticking labels:
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_LB/p/d/v000076379/

This one from Scotch could be useful too:
https://www.scotchbrand.com/3M/en_US/scotch-brand/products/catalog/~/Scotch-Adhesive-Dot-Roller/?N=4335+3294529207+3294603441&rt=rud

--- End quote ---

These look great and would have been better than any suggestions I would could up with. I was just thinking hitting with a little glue if the labels were relatively straight.

__________________

The most cumbersome selection is now out of the way. lol such a relief. I have spent way more than I should wrestling over buying decisions when it comes to things I want to just work when it should for a long time.


My last lingering enigma is the which quirks of a PSU to live with. I get its not a big deal and will have a PSU hording problem like most in the forum in the future.  Please put me out of my misery and help make the last selection.

Debating between these few choices:

* Keithley 2231A-30-3 for $600 total(used ebay).
* Instek GPP-4323 (LAN) $700
* Rigol DP832 $500
or something else?

Trying to keep budget around 500$ for the PSU as I already spent my 2k budget with my other items. Something too good to pass up would kinda have me stretch my budget for one. Honestly need to read about some of the older legendary equipment to know what I'm looking for on ebay.

Min specs needed:
-3 channels
-ability to hit 5a with monitoring and protecting from some source
-low noise
-programmable
-lan or usb connect to pc
-ability to calibrate at home and adjust the display output
-Timer, can see output voltage and amps for channels at all times
-UI doesn't lock up
-remote sense would be nice, but I know that only premium options


Pretty much a lot ticks the boxes. Siglent SPD3303X-E around $400 is another barging buy. Just something about the off-set binding posts, knob, and the 3rd channel switch just urks me for some reason. Prob a lot nicer in person but not sure and would like a little more control over the 3rd channel. With those savings I could buy a very cheap 60v/5A single channel supply or a proper electronic load for a little more that the Instek thats has its own very weird problems, low amps on a few channels, and a limited load.   :-\

I'm gonna spend the next hour browsing for a deal that checks the boxes. I've exhausted my options looking at new PSU's. Prob flip a coin by the end of the night at this rate. Any more time debating, my semester will be over by the time it arrives and me overthinking this. Its just a PSU at the end of the day. lol
tautech:
geneonline
You will love the 2kX+ as many others here do and I highly recommend you get a mouse for it despite it having a touch display and physical controls a mouse speeds usage and provide a better all-round experience with all these recent Siglent models.
Latest SDS6000A scopes are shipped with a wireless mouse for exactly the same reasons and as they have a 12" display it saves lots of time rather than chase around the display with a finger.

SPD3303X-E are certainly not your usual PSU design however we sell a good few each year and have little problem with them. That their 3 channels are all properly isolated from one another and mains ground allows multiple units to be connected in series to a rated max of 500V from mains GND.
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