New Hantek DSO2X1X models?

[DavidAlfa]

Try deeper cleaning it with a brush, then drop some thermal paste, massage it to fully fill the porous surface and wipe gently.
Any marking leftovers will be filled now with the paste and revealed, this works great most of the times.

[DavidAlfa]

I wonder how the buttons are doing for you, guys?
My "V0" rotating enconder started to fail about a month ago, probably because any big adjustment require 45 trillions turns.
Now I can turn it max. 1 turn per second or it will do whatever it feels it's best, usually increase no matter the direction, and sometimes suddenly jump by a lot, taking another 20 seconds to adjust the value.
Chinesium software, chinesium hardware, chinesium support, everything's chinesium!

I can't find the front panel pcb pictures I took when I opened it... does anyone have any, or the encoder model/type/dimensions?

@pcprogrammer? I know you have them for sure...!

[pcprogrammer]

@DavidAlfa, of course I have pictures

But all taken from the top, so not a good view to determine the type, and the scope is back together again

Hope the attached one helps.

[pu6k1n]

PEC12R-4220F-S0024, Incremental encoder with switch

[vistorik]

I can't find the front panel pcb pictures I took when I opened it... does anyone have any, or the encoder

I replaced the encoder V0 with a PEC12R-4220F-S0024. Ordered on arrow.de https://www.arrow.de/products/pec12r-4220f-s0024/bourns.

[DavidAlfa]

Noted down, thanks!
Don't have enough motivation to disassemble everything again , I'll probably replace it in the near future.

[rawrs]

Hey folks!

I've come out of the woodwork again to ask about an oscilloscope.. again. I'll try to keep it short (ha!), but basically I am *very* intent on buying one of these puppies with my soon-to-arrive little windfall.

I am just about as green as grass with electronics, and it's something I want to get in to, maybe even as a career. Anyway!

I own two USB-based scopes, and I really feel like I've been burned both times. The first scope was the infamous Hantek 6022BL, and I have opinions about this one. In fact, I asked this very forum for advice on a USB-based scope (wanted mainly for budget reasons, but I do want a full fat scope now), and was recommended the Dreamsource Lab DScope somethingorother. Initially I was wowed by it, but really, the only thing it gained me was a decent ability to trigger of something that isn't a perfect 1kHz square wave. Both scopes are identical in that measurement facilities are very poor, and decode facilities are flat out non-existent. I know there are other features any oscilloscope worth a damn that are missing on both of these. In essence, both of these scopes run on Sigrok, and I hate Sigrok (because of how basic it is and somehow simultaneously how user-friendly it is not-it's bad enough one of these problems exists, but both existing in the same application is serious talent on behalf of the developers), so it's a non-starter anyway.

In any case, I was very disappointed to discover that this is the only additional feature it seems to have. I was hoping I'd at least get some useful toys like serial decode and whatnot, but it's exactly like the 6022BL, just better made and it's a real oscilloscope that actually has a real FPGA, and doesn't need stupid driver faffing-around-with.. This drove me positively nuts with the Hantek and it's stupid unsigned driver that pushed firmware to the device on every boot because an EEPROM was too expensive crap.

This is a very long-winded way of saying that the software for both of these things is crap. I was worried, but figured "oh, DScope is still in decently active development, so it should get better eventually." Well, it seems I'm a tad cursed because the second I bought the goddamn thing is when development ceased.

I'm really tired of buying junk and I just want a *basic* scope with *basic* features. I am really hoping that third time is the charm here, but I have one or two concerns. First being is that Hantek doesn't really have a support base here in Aussieland, it seems. I really would like some recourse if I feel like I get burned again. But I think this scope is a goer for me. I played around with the Jaycar scope and I'm in love. I know it's buggy, but it seems like both first and third party development is active. At the VERY least, Hantek is at least a company more than a handful of people have heard of.

Now for the real question. I know I can get one of these for <$400 or so, but I'm wondering if I should pony up for the Jaycar model. I feel much more secure with the idea of buying an expensive instrument like this from a B&M store, even if the pricing is a tad outrageous. $549 is at the upper end of my budget, and I am happy to pay the premium for peace of mind. But TL;DR main question is: If I buy the Jaycar branded scope, will I be able to just chuck the normal 1st party Hantek updates on this? I can't imagine not being able to, but I figured I'd ask. In case nobody has done this, I guess I'd be happy enough being a guinea pig and trying it on mine when I do buy it, I just figured someone might have tried this. Lastly and frankly, I don't really want to wait for a scope to come from China anyway. I am far too impatient, have been wanting a real oscilloscope literally forever as far as my hobby is concerned, so I absolutely plan on having one of these on my desk the literal second the money hits my bank account.

Apologies that this is a bit of a meandering post, but I'm still new to all this, and I'm not even sure what I need to be looking for in a garden variety scope, but I know at least that serial/CAN etc. decode is essential for me, and I know that most scopes are a bit less basic than these USB toys. There's little to no complex triggering, the interface is extremely clunky, etc. Plus, having an AWG and decode alone is reason enough for me to pull the trigger on the Hantek.

Thanks all, and sorry again for the rambly nature here. Again, I'm not even sure what is considered essential for a real scope. I just know that I feel like the two USB things I have are missing a lot of features I've seen even modest old Rigols have in Dave's super vintage videos.

[dirtmover]

I applied the heat-sink mod and found that on the other big chip (left of the lemontree part) there was the same black paint typically used on fake chips. I removed it with some alcohol and took some pictures. It looks to have a National Semiconductor logo, but they scratched the part number off. Some bits of it are still readable. Perhaps it can help someone to identify the part:

I was curious enough to open my scope yet again and wash down that device. Mine has been ground down so enthusiastically that no one is ever going to make out any of the markings that once adorned it's package.

Isn't this is the sort of defacing that's usually associated with bootleg components?

[Algoma]

Isn't this is the sort of defacing that's usually associated with bootleg components?

Removal of any identifying marks seems to be common practice in China, to slow down products from being copied and reproduced at a lower cost by their grey markets. Even with genuine and resonably well made products. Aliexpress in rife with low quality variations and clones.

[DavidAlfa]

Yeap, mainly done to make it harder to copy, just like the Lemontree FPGA you won't find anywhere 

[vistorik]

Yeap, mainly done to make it harder to copy, just like the Lemontree FPGA you won't find anywhere 

Are you kidding?

[dirtmover]

Now for the real question. I know I can get one of these for <$400 or so, but I'm wondering if I should pony up for the Jaycar model. I feel much more secure with the idea of buying an expensive instrument like this from a B&M store, even if the pricing is a tad outrageous. $549 is at the upper end of my budget, and I am happy to pay the premium for peace of mind. But TL;DR main question is: If I buy the Jaycar branded scope, will I be able to just chuck the normal 1st party Hantek updates on this? I can't imagine not being able to, but I figured I'd ask. In case nobody has done this, I guess I'd be happy enough being a guinea pig and trying it on mine when I do buy it, I just figured someone might have tried this. Lastly and frankly, I don't really want to wait for a scope to come from China anyway. I am far too impatient, have been wanting a real oscilloscope literally forever as far as my hobby is concerned, so I absolutely plan on having one of these on my desk the literal second the money hits my bank account.

It's very unlikely there's a HW difference in which case there's no reason that it shouldn't work. The real question is do you want to just chuck the normal 1st party Hantek updates on it? I personally don't get a warm feeling that a SW update from Hantek is going to be an upgrade. They do a terrible job of verification, breaking working features while not really providing significant improvements. To make matters worse they refuse to provide the release notes so that users can make informed decisions. The way I look at it is I know the limitations of the SW I have installed and unless someone gives me a compelling reason to install something newer I'm not going to waste my time. Don't be fooled into believing they're putting any resources into their products just 'cause they have a lot of stuff out there.

Your impatience is coming at a high price considering you can go to Banggood and buy the 2C10 for $280 shipped and hack it up to a 2D15 for no additional cost. After all, this is about all this scope is worth at the end of the day. In the unlikely event that you're unlucky enough to receive a 2C10 without the AWG components you still have ~$270 to spend on a much more capable stand alone AWG if you need one. Let's face it, the inbuilt AWG is little more than a toy.

What are Jaycar giving you other than the opportunity to buy locally and quickly? Do they provide any product support or warranty support? I suspect they will just be a middle man and it's going to come back to what Hantek provide which is frankly very little. But you already know that.

Once you account for the lack of support, shitty SW, noise issues, poor triggering, memory depth limitations, measurement limitations, barely functioning protocol decoding, a whole bunch of frustration etc etc it's still a not a bad deal for <$300 but I wouldn't pay much more than that for it.

[DavidAlfa]

Yeap, mainly done to make it harder to copy, just like the Lemontree FPGA you won't find anywhere 

Are you kidding?

No, try finding a "LemonTree 2090", it doesn't exist, you can't buy  it anywhere 
So you can't copy a design if you can't source the parts, did I explain now?
Yeah, we do know it's a relabeled Gowin part because I ran the JTAG on it, but otherwise it still would be an unknown part.

[pu6k1n]

Interestingly, Hantek engineers will ever guess in such oscilloscopes with a generator like dso2d15 to add a frequency response meter function?

[daf0x]

Now for the real question. I know I can get one of these for <$400 or so, but I'm wondering if I should pony up for the Jaycar model. ...

...

Once you account for the lack of support, shitty SW, noise issues, poor triggering, memory depth limitations, measurement limitations, barely functioning protocol decoding, a whole bunch of frustration etc etc it's still a not a bad deal for <$300 but I wouldn't pay much more than that for it.

I just want to second @dirtmover's conclusion, he summarized it well. As my first hobby scope I like it for what it is, but I can definitely see where it cuts corners compared to a more expensive brand. I think someone else on this forum also made the point that for the price it's probably a good way to try things out. Even if you end up buying a better scope in a year, you'll only have spent $280 but you'll know what you want/need from your first 'real' scope.

[DavidAlfa]

Don't get fooled, it was marketed for the $150-$200 range, that's where it belongs, if they ask more now, well... you decide.
For $300, wouldn't consider this DSO it by any way, I'd jump into the $400 territory.

It's like getting a rusted car for $900 or decent one for $1200.
The rusted one will never be fine (or very expensive to fix), it's throwing your money away.

[daf0x]

It's Australian dollar I think, $280 aud ~ $190 usd.

[arturmariojr]

Hi, guys

I finally started to replace the main switching power supply of my scope with a linear power supply using the old simple transformer and regulators. But I have some doubts:
1 - there are two power supplys: one dual, analogic, of +8Vdc GND -8Vdc - this one is used only for being transformed in +5 and -5Vdc in main board?
So, I will just make one new  +8V -8Vdc rectified and filtered by capacitors and inject its output to 7805/7905 regulators on main board, as already is.

2 - the digital power supply of +5Vdc will be used for a lot of other low voltage conversions (1v1, 1v9, 2v5, 2v8, 3v3).
Shall I  use another transformer, rectifiers and filter capacitors to make a separeted power supply for it?

Also, the filter capacitors after the 7805 and 7905 on main board are of 100uF. This is 10x the recommended on datasheets for these regulators and could burn them when the equipment is turned off, I'm right?

[vistorik]

2 - the digital power supply of +5Vdc will be used for a lot of other low voltage conversions (1v1, 1v9, 2v5, 2v8, 3v3). Shall I  use another transformer, rectifiers and filter capacitors to make a separeted power supply for it?

I used two transformers - one for +8/-8V and one for +5V.
Please don't forget the TR line.

[arturmariojr]

Great!
For TR line, it would be better to keep the switching power supply on? I read here, in some comments - I don't know which one any more - it's a pulse from line (60Hz)
If so, some clipping diodes to generate a "rectangular" positive signal could also work ??

Best regards!

[vistorik]

For TR line, it would be better to keep the switching power supply on? I read here, in some comments - I don't know which one any more - it's a pulse from line (60Hz)
If so, some clipping diodes to generate a "rectangular" positive signal could also work ??

I've used the TR schematics of the power supply by Piton. Instead of PS817C I've used PC817, and instead of F7 of D3 - 1N4007. It works good. The TR signal from the power supply goes to the 2nd PIN of the U3 (SN74LVC1G17) on the main board. From the 4th PIN of the U3 the signal goes to the FPGA (POWER_HEAT_BEAT) - see the schematics of pcprogrammer.

[pcprogrammer]

Just a thought, when you are using a transformer, you can connect the opto coupler to the secondary side of it. Reduces the risk of shock when working on it. Just adjust the resistor values to what is needed.

[arturmariojr]

Very clean, simple, safety and clever design! It couldn't be better!
Many thanks for so kind replies!!! This weekend I'll have work at my lab!

Best wishes and I'll post the results!

Artur

[ShedSynth]

Any feedback yet on dso3kb_20220517.upk, please?
I've had my DSO2D10 (Amazon, 2022.02.10, 3204) since the weekend, stuffed/recovered several times already.
Thanks,
Al

'New' firmware is up:

dso3kb_20220517.upk

http://hantek.com/products/detail/17182
http://hantek.com/uploadpic/hantek/files/20220727/dso3kb_20220517.zip

[DavidAlfa]

Didn't notice any difference, also Hantek doesn't provide any changelogs. 
Just remember we have all firmware revisions, so if some new bug appears, you can simply up/downgrade the fw as you wish.