Author Topic: Old Analog HAMEG 20MHz dual channel scope died on me. Where would I start?  (Read 6585 times)

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Offline dumle29Topic starter

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So a while back I got an old scope from my school for free, as they had gotten fancy new scopemeters (fluke 123 :palm:) abd it worked a treat, however when I turned it on today, it made a slightly different clank that it usually does on power on, and now the trace will only briefly scan on the CRT, and then nothing. I've changed every knob, but nothing happens.

Since it's such an old analog beastie, I'm thinking it should have a larger chance of me being able to fix it, and seeing as it traces the trace for a split second, the importan bits should work :/
 

Offline Hydrawerk

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Start with checking the power supply. And please write the exact model of your oscilloscope.
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Offline dumle29Topic starter

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So I checked the rails, all seem fine (video attached) The model is a HAMEG 203-7


Here's some pictures:
http://imgur.com/a/h2epq
(Too big for the forum I guess :P)
 

Offline eurofox

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Did you check the high voltage?
You need a special probe for this and be careful, it is dangerous if you don't no what you are doing  |O
If high voltage is OK for the next step you need a diagram and maybe get a scope for testing.

eurofox
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Offline dumle29Topic starter

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No I didn't check the HV. I only have that meter in the video, and it's only rated at 600V input, while the CRT itself has a label saying "danger 2000v" which to me seems a little low, but then again, this isn't the 26" crt I knicked my flybacks from.

I suppose I could make a resistive divider to read the voltage, but really that just sounds like trouble. I hope that that isn't the issue, as I were able to get a trace or two over to happen, (tho not anymore) before the screen would blank.
 

Offline eurofox

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Here you have the service manual in German  :-DD but I'm sure that you can manage with the diagram  :-+

http://mti.kvk.uni-obuda.hu/adat/tananyag/adatlapok/muszer/HM203_7_scope_deutsch.pdf
eurofox
 

Offline 128er

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This one is a little bit better to read, instead of the pixelated one:
www.hameg.com/downloads/man/HM203-7_deutsch.pdf

Your two wires with "CX" that are flapping in the breeze, seems to be marked as "wired capacitor" in the "TB/Trigger Control Circuit" diagram (Page 40 of my PDF). Yes, of course - two wires hanging around are a capacitor. But thats it? Maybe . . .  ???

I have no old Hameg to compare
 

Offline JOERGG

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If the scope does not trigger then you will not see the beam.
Release X-Mag x 10 button, because it dims the beam, then be sure intens pot is turned up right.
Release AT/Norm button to set to auto trigger.
Input for exampel probe compensation signal square wave on channel one.
Do you see the beam? Is Y position knob turned to middle position?
If you still do not see the beam, does the trigger led light up?

Addition: Be sure that external trigger button is not pressed.
« Last Edit: May 18, 2014, 07:37:21 pm by JOERGG »
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Online tautech

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  • Taupaki Technologies Ltd. Siglent Distributor NZ.
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Your two wires with "CX" that are flapping in the breeze, seems to be marked as "wired capacitor" in the "TB/Trigger Control Circuit" diagram (Page 40 of my PDF). Yes, of course - two wires hanging around are a capacitor. But thats it? Maybe . . .  ???

I have no old Hameg to compare

Twisted insulated wire capacitors are not uncommon in old CRT scopes.
They sometimes are adjusted as part of an adjustment procedure in calibration
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Offline 128er

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Twisted insulated wire capacitors are not uncommon in old CRT scopes.
They sometimes are adjusted as part of an adjustment procedure in calibration

Ok, nice to know. I've experimented with twisted wires as capacitors for myself. But I did not know that something like this is used in reliable test equipment. I guess this two wires are maybe a few hundreds or tens femtofarad. But it makes sense to trim C331 (0.56pF) with it.
 

Offline dumle29Topic starter

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These aren't twisted tho, they really are just flapping in the breeze
 

Offline Stonent

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Does the scope have a voltage selection switch and is it set correctly for your unspecified country?
Noticed R3115 next to the paired transistors has a dark spot on it.
« Last Edit: May 20, 2014, 11:30:11 pm by Stonent »
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Offline dumle29Topic starter

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I live in Denmark, so the voltage is ~230v, and the voltage selection on the back, is one of those square fuse holder/voltage selectors. It was at 220V, which has worked flawlessly for 2 years, but I guess that might have been a bit on the edge, as I believe voltages have been slowly raised to ~230v. I now have it on the 240V option, but that's after the fault started. (measuring our power here, gives me 228V at 50.02 Hz)
 

Offline Wim13

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No I didn't check the HV. I only have that meter in the video, and it's only rated at 600V input, while the CRT itself has a label saying "danger 2000v" which to me seems a little low, but then again, this isn't the 26" crt I knicked my flybacks from.

I suppose I could make a resistive divider to read the voltage, but really that just sounds like trouble. I hope that that isn't the issue, as I were able to get a trace or two over to happen, (tho not anymore) before the screen would blank.

You dont need a probe, there is already a probe in the power supply build in, measure point is  IC301 pin 3.

The High voltage is also regulated,  on ic 301 pin 3 in the power supply, has to be 0 Volt.
On that point you have a connection to the -1913 V via a resistor of 6M81 and 1.5 M ( 8.31 M ) and a
other resistor 47K5 and 4K75 to ( 52.25 K ) to +12 Volt.


 


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