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Old Fluke Multimeters

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rstoer:

--- Quote from: XOIIO on May 12, 2014, 08:03:22 pm ---...I'm curious, what do you guys mean by NOS?

--- End quote ---
New Old Stock

XOIIO:

--- Quote from: rstoer on May 13, 2014, 01:30:05 pm ---
--- Quote from: XOIIO on May 12, 2014, 08:03:22 pm ---...I'm curious, what do you guys mean by NOS?

--- End quote ---
New Old Stock

--- End quote ---

ah

scopeman:
Hello Dr. Taylor,

I just scored a IBM 8060A/AA off of ebay. It seems that only 200mV and 2V ranges work correctly with all the other ranges displaying like the 200mV range (applying 190mv displays as 19000 and any more displays overload). I have not popped the cover yet. I suspect that either the divider is bad or I have a switch problem. Anything else I should look for?

If it is the Caddock divider any idea where to find one of those? The unit is mint otherwise.
 
Are there other Fluke meters that used the same divider?

Thanks,

Sam

drtaylor:
Sam,

I doubt that your problem is the divider. I would suspect the pushbutton switch assembly with the symptoms as you describe. Sometimes the little spring contacts in the switch get mangled.

With the 8060 off, check each switch to make sure the poles are connecting and disconnecting. The ground side of the divider has to go through several poles on several switches. Any pole not working would prevent the divider from dividing.

It's fairly easy to test if the divider is working. Just place 2V on the meter inputs and then monitor the voltage at the 100k resistor at the input to the MAC chip. Also, if you pop out both the Volts and ohms keys, then you can use another DMM to measure the resistors in the divider (8060 off).

Also a small possibility is that the silver zebra that connects the main board to the SM4 Micro just needs to be cleaned and/or repositioned. If this were the case, it would still divide in the analog world, but the micro may not know what range and function it is in.

Does it work in ohms mode? That would be a clue.

The divider was a custom part from Caddock to my specifications. I don't believe it was used ever again in newer meters. So unless Fluke has repair stock, that might be difficult to obtain except from a donor 8060. Hopefully your divider is fine.

I don't have an 8060 schematic where I'm writing this. If you want more specific instructions on trouble shooting this unit, let me know. Good luck.

If you have the User Guide, it tells you how to perform a digital switch check that will test the Micro's ability to figure out the range and function.

xwarp:
Hey Dr. Taylor,

I think I previously posted about a near mint 8060a that I got from a local swap meet for $20.

Had to replace the lytics in it as several had leaked, but fortunately, not a lot and the damage was minimal.

Had to pull the LCD assembly off and clean that area up along with adding a  thin layer of silver solder on the pads in the center of the board as the board has a minor bow to it that reduced the contact to the elastomeric strip.

Outside the minor "bleeding" in the display, and it booting up properly, it works pretty well.

It seems that occasionally now, after being off for a while, that it doesn't boot up properly and hangs up just after doing it's self test. Not sure why but a power cycle seems to correct it.

Accurate little booger too.

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