Products > Test Equipment
Old Fluke Multimeters
radhaz:
I used LusterClean. All the metal parts came out shiny, and all the switches now work perfectly. These were meters my company used for calibration of products, and were quite dirty. I also re-soldered the banana jacks, as they all had cracked solder.
I may resubmit one to the cal lab to see if they will calibrate it. They had rejected these meters as malfunctioning.
kwochele:
Hi,
Hopefully I am going about this post correctly, if not I plead newbie status.
I have been caught up collecting, repairing, and cleaning vintage Fluke meters. I am currently working on a Fluke 8060A/AA IBM meter. The capacitors have been replaced, the circuit board cleaned, the display connections cleaned and I even changed the processor.
It seems to work fine for the functions checked, except for reading a DC voltage. When it sits next to another 8060 it will read the exact same voltage but only after r a few seconds. In my setup, I have two 8060s connected to a D cell battery. When I turn both 8060s on they go through the self test. One 8060 will almost immediately read 1.5620 volts while the one I am working on jumps around a bit then settles at a voltage slightly higher or lower than 1.5620 (-1.5616 to 1.5635) then after a couple of seconds (approx 5 seconds) the meter will read 1.5620. I can watch the last two digits increment or decrements by one during that time until it reads 1.5620 +/-.0001. Cycling power the meter settles to 1.5620 faster unless it is off for a length of time. Swapping the leads produces the same symptom, that is after a few seconds it will read -1.5619 volts.
Any suggestions of what to check are appreciated.
Thank you. Ken
TerraHertz:
What a great thread! But kind of worrying - it started in Oct 2013, runs to 13 pages, and drtaylor's last post was in Oct 2014 (on my birthday!), and yet I can't recall ever seeing this thread before just now. Conclusion: I must be getting Alzheimer's, as it doesn't seem possible I could have kept missing it every visit, for a year.
Anyway, here's my small collection of Fluke meters. Some a little out of cal on DC V apparently.
Now to PM drtaylor about one of those manuals. Hopefully he's OK.
How sad! He designed some beautiful instruments, that sold many tens of thousands, enjoyed by engineers and techs worldwide, made Fluke millions probably, but because of that 'engineers have their (lowly) place' thing, he's not wealthy and still has to work. Never got that yacht unlike the probably useless salesman, and now apparently doesn't even have his own nice big, secure workshop. If having boxes of his memento stuff subjected to wifely toss-out predations is anything to judge by.
Life is not fair.
Edit: Now I just have to get an 8060A. No choice.
Excavatoree:
Nice old 77 with the unfused 10A range, and 73 with only the 10 A range. (You need an older 21 with only the low current range to go with it.)
My boss at the electronic shop had a 77 like that one. It was the first Fluke I had seen.
retiredcaps:
--- Quote from: kwochele on March 18, 2015, 11:35:57 pm ---Any suggestions of what to check are appreciated.
--- End quote ---
Obviously, drtaylor and others are the experts here, but I have some suggestions to at least get the discussion started?
1) When I repaired my 8060A, ACV was way off. It turned out that the capacitor right next to the pot had leaked and while I cleaned up the pcb with IPA and replaced the capacitor, the electrolyte had wicked its way up to the ACV pot. A couple of turns left and right fixed that problem. Maybe give your DCV pots a couple of turns left and right?
2) I don't have a lot of equipment with the push button/switch arrangement, but from what I have read, if they are 20+ years old, they can potentially affect readings and require cleaning.
3) Does the last digit fluctation happen if you use the 20V range? You lose a digit of resolution, but I'm curious if it happens on the 20V range.
4) Have you checked the soldering on the input jacks? Have you tried cleaning them with a q-tip and IPA?
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