Products > Test Equipment
Old Fluke Multimeters
KJDS:
--- Quote from: drtaylor on June 25, 2015, 10:04:48 pm ---KJDS, If you determine that the main converter IC is to blame for the 8010 units not working, I do have a few 429100 chips for replacement. They've been sitting in antistatic foam for 30 years, so who knows? I'd advise replacing the electrolytics, or at least a careful inspection to look for spew (highly technical term). For top performance a good washing in IPA can fix all kinds of problems. However, try to keep the alcohol out of the ganged switch assembly.
--- End quote ---
I'm cheating and giving away the non-working ones to those that buy a working unit.
Deathwish:
--- Quote from: KJDS on June 25, 2015, 10:39:59 pm ---
--- Quote from: drtaylor on June 25, 2015, 10:04:48 pm ---KJDS, If you determine that the main converter IC is to blame for the 8010 units not working, I do have a few 429100 chips for replacement. They've been sitting in antistatic foam for 30 years, so who knows? I'd advise replacing the electrolytics, or at least a careful inspection to look for spew (highly technical term). For top performance a good washing in IPA can fix all kinds of problems. However, try to keep the alcohol out of the ganged switch assembly.
--- End quote ---
I'm cheating and giving away the non-working ones to those that buy a working unit.
--- End quote ---
oooh did I get one ?. better get some bits sorted then hadn't I......
DarthBubba:
Greetings to All! I learned of this place from Mr. Modemhead's web site, which seems inactive now. I'd like to post a message here regarding my Fluke 8060A. :-+
Given the BOM Mr. Modemhead generated (http://mrmodemhead.com/blog/fluke-8060a-repair/) for the re-capping his 8060A in the context of Dr. Taylor’s EEVBlog (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/history-of-the-fluke-8020-series/msg325570/#msg325570) message, would it make sense to go ahead and replace all the caps Mr. Modemhead specified with tantalum devices of the same, or slightly higher voltage, rather than use current aluminum electrolytics (even though the new ones are superior to the original caps)? I too have one of the older 8060A meters, and could not locate caps 19, 24, & 28 until I dug out my owner’s manual and looked at the schematic that came with my meter. They don’t exist in the .PDFs available on the Fluke web site. Are there any other 32-year-old electrolytic caps that anyone would suggest changing out while I’m digging around in my 8060A’s guts?
Greetings to Dr. Taylor, who I only recently learned was one of my heroes (Had my 8060A since August of 1982)!
Thanks in advance
vindoline:
Welcome DarthBubba, I've repaired 4 8060A meters at this point. I replaced every aluminum electrolytic with modern 105 C rated parts of the same physical dimentions. I think I used Panasonic parts. It's amazing the amount of damage these spewing caps cause! Is your meter in working order, or does it need repair?
retiredcaps:
--- Quote from: DarthBubba on July 26, 2015, 12:19:35 am ---Greetings to All! I learned of this place from Mr. Modemhead's web site, which seems inactive now.
--- End quote ---
As modemhead explains here
http://mrmodemhead.com/blog/reality-check/
he is on the road a lot and doesn't have regular time now.
--- Quote ---would it make sense to go ahead and replace all the caps Mr. Modemhead specified with tantalum devices of the same, or slightly higher voltage, rather than use current aluminum electrolytics (even though the new ones are superior to the original caps)?
--- End quote ---
Just use high quality Nichicon, Rubyon, United Chemicon or Panasonic aluminum electrolytic capacitors for replacements. Replace all the old ones regardless if they test or look okay. All the old ones will eventually leak.
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