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Old Fluke Multimeters

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Gromit:
What a great post.  I have used Fluke meters for a long time, but my personal meters are a Fluke D804 and an 89IV.  I recently dug a Fluke 8808A out of the recycle bin at work to see if I could repair it, but it has serious issues which is likely why it was there to begin with.  I have tried to find schematics (I know, unlikely) to no avail and troubleshooting without them is not a simple task.   |O  If anyone has advice, opinions etc. I'm listening.

I bought my Fluke D804 back in 1981 or 1982, then, I think, a year or so later Fluke quit selling that meter, at least it seemed that way to me.  Does anyone know How the D804 compared to the other Fluke's at that time?  Was it a short lived meter?  A Google search located a PDF of Popular Electronics Sept. 1981 with an add for the Fluke D804.  In the same issue was an add for 8" floppy disks and an article on the 8080A processor!!

Well, I still have my D804 in pristine condition with the original leads and I still use it when I need a second or third meter.  I also continue to use the B&K Model 177 VTVM I bought in the 70's when I worked at a TV repair shop when I was a kid to help finance my electronics hobby.  Yep, those were the days!

drtaylor:
I occasionally get asked about replacement parts for 8060A's. I'm combining two queries I recently received here to help anybody in the same boat.

Question1:  In this thread, Findm-Keepm suggests that these SPH resistors
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/414/SPH-SPF-461183.pdf
are equivalent to Fluke 8060A 1k ohm 2W fusible resistor."

DRT Answer: No, I don't think the SPH is a good choice to replace the 1K resistors. They are wire wound and the inductance could have an effect on the AC response. The original resistors were good old carbon composition. Terrible in every  way except they are extremely rugged in transient events. The original design did not really have fusible resistors, but carbon comps would always fail open...fusible sort of.

I now recommend the Ohmite OY series, PN OY102KE. These have the surge strength of Carbon Comp, but are constructed of more modern materials. They perform well in an 8060. These are in stock at Mouser. http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Ohmite/OY102KE/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduiyQUi6McZj1pNmp3wbBKbDI%252b3Db0HwOiE%3d

Question2: "I am reviving a few 8060As, and I have a few failed JFETs(Q1).
The originals are Siliconix parts, and I am unable to find a datasheet.  Do you have any insight or info on what characteristics I should look for in a replacement?  Thank you for your time."

DRT Answer: These were low RDS N-Chan Jfets. They were similar to a J106, but selected for Vgs Cutoff of -3 to -4.5V. If you get a few J106 parts, you can select them to make sure they fully cut off when Vgs is no more than -4.5. These are also available at Mouser in the TO-92 package.  http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Fairchild-Semiconductor/J106/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv4z0HnGdrLjpo3FY8YkyPvebpfrX4sUEw%3d

J107s would probably work without selecting for Vgs, but the on resistance is a little higher which will slightly shorten battery life. Regardless of which JFET you get, get them quick because TO-92 JFETs are a dying breed.

Question 3: "Please recommend replacement caps"

DRT: As far as those pesky aluminum electrolytics that spew destruction on the PCBs, I believe retiredcaps already covered this topic. I did spend the time a few years ago to select replacements, and will spend time again if I get asked.

And...last but not least... Yes, I still have a few autographed 8060 Original Manuals. If you showed up in the Seattle area, I'd gladly give you one. But I'm just too lazy to try to figure out how to post them out of country, and how I'd get reimbursed for postage (yeah I'm cheap too, the 8060 didn't make this boy rich).

retiredcaps:
Modemhead has a new blog entry on the IBM 8060A.  It includes a digikey capacitor shopping list.

http://mrmodemhead.com/blog/ibm-8060aaa-fluke-8060a-refurbish/

Robomeds:
Glad to see a new entry on Mr Modemhead's blog! 

saturation:
Does anyone know how to decode the serial numbers on the Fluke DMMs?  Are they the same even to the modern ones?

Worse ase, I can guestimate the manufacture date from the date codes on some of the ICs on the board for a ball park figure.  But the serial number should be the best bet.

I hope you all don't find this too much off topic.

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