Products > Test Equipment
Old Fluke Multimeters
OldTexan:
I have two Fluke 8520A DMMs. Both work perfectly except for one function, which appears to have the same problem in both instruments. Neither will work properly in the 4-wire ohms function. The 2-wire ohms function more or less works OK.
It appears than no current is being supplied from the 4-wire ohms current source.
I am at my wits end trying to troubleshoot this problem and I am wondering if this forum has in it anyone sufficiently familiar with the 8520A to give me some help. If anyone knows of any common problem with the 4-wire ohms function in the 8520A I would sure like to get into correspondence with that person or those people.
switcher:
--- Quote from: saturation on November 21, 2016, 12:21:37 pm ---Does anyone know how to decode the serial numbers on the Fluke DMMs? Are they the same even to the modern ones?
Worse ase, I can guestimate the manufacture date from the date codes on some of the ICs on the board for a ball park figure. But the serial number should be the best bet.
I hope you all don't find this too much off topic.
--- End quote ---
I've been wondering that, too.
Fluke seem to have a group of three digits, then (possibly) zero(s), then another number, say, 3630012, or 4780277.
Its as if the first three digits mean something, then the last four are the serial number ??
OldTexan:
Is there anyone in this forum who has experience with the Fluke model 8520A DMM? I am having a hellova time trying to fix a problem in one and could sure use some insight from anyone familiar with this model. Thanks.
rsjsouza:
OldTexan, you may have some luck contacting the folks in the other thread that talks about the same model. Perhaps they can help you:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/51-fluke-8520a-how-far-does-this-rabbit-hole-go-part-1/
There is another thread where someone reports a faulty 8520A, but in this case they were trying to get help from Fluke:
http://antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=254389
Good luck in your search!
jssilva:
Hello,
Just registered to thank the many that posted their repairing experiences of the 8060A, namely the creator drtaylor, which helped me a lot reviving the one that I have since 30+ years, that I bought to replace a needle one. This has been a faithful partners of all my designs.
I thought I could give something back by posting my most recent repair experience.
So, I had replaced the electrolytics and cleaned the board with IPA a few times before, always successfully. But this time was different. Since some time, after power on the display either was blank or all segments lit or would just works for a few weeks with a few power recycles in-between.
After reading a lot on this forum, I suspected the elastomeric connecting the main board to the daughter board. With an ohmeter I couldn't come to a conclusion but, by twisting the small board assembly, sometimes I could make it work for some days more.
To make a long story short, filling the solder pads with solder to increase the pressure on the elastomeric didn't work and so I went on to the next solution which was soldering a 0,1" flat-cable connecting both boards and it worked. Well, sort of, intermittently. After further investigation I discovered a solder joint which was not joining, meaning, the solder was just sort of glued to the pad underneath which was completely oxidate. After repairing, all is well now and it will probably outlive this old-timer.
My conclusion is that, if I had found that before, perhaps I wouldn't have to replace the elastomeric by the flat-cable. Hope this can help someone.
Rgds
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