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Old Fluke Multimeters

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retiredcaps:

--- Quote from: Electro Detective on April 30, 2017, 09:40:14 am ---If the caps are slightly leaking at the bottom with no signs of visible invasive creeping corrosion yet, would it be worth giving that bottom area a few forced shots of canned isopropyl alcohol to wash out the area and put off the cap change hangman for another day?
--- End quote ---
If the caps are leaking from the bottom now, change them NOW.


--- Quote ---Will the meter need calibration after a careful capacitor change with same values?
--- End quote ---
It is unlikely the meter will need calibration once you change the capacitors.  I replaced mine in the 8060A and did not require calibration.


--- Quote ---Is it mission critical to use replacement capacitors of same type with standard temp 85?

--- End quote ---
Modemhead's blog has a list of 105C capacitors.

http://mrmodemhead.com/blog/ibm-8060aaa-fluke-8060a-refurbish/

frozenfrogz:

--- Quote from: Electro Detective on April 30, 2017, 09:40:14 am ---You guessed it, I'm lazy   :phew:

--- End quote ---

Get yourself a cheap desoldering station! Since I bought one last week, I don’t even know how I could live without one the last couple of years...
That way – even if you are lazy – changing the caps will be done in no time :)

Electro Detective:
Thanks for the replies and advice gents   :-+

I have a desoldering gun which comes out for jobs that need better and quicker results than wick, pump and ouch methods.

I didn't want to make work for myself changing out parts on a meter that works fine and may not have cap leakage issues at all = yet. 

I'm hoping I got one of the last made ones with ummm.. better batch quality caps (wishful thinking?) 

After seeing the cool fixit work by Mr. ModemHead at   http://mrmodemhead.com/blog/ibm-8060aaa-fluke-8060a-refurbish/    I will pull the 8060A apart asap, take a good look inside and see what the deal is.
 

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@ frozenfrogz

I have a mains operated 240 volt Fluke 8050A I was using just a few days ago, and verify it's still doing its job properly etc and have never noticed any "gentle ’tick’ noise every couple of minutes"

I'll get it out later today to check for that, and reply back.

Edit:   No 'tick' noise here, just a wee small transformer hum when held up close, and no relays that I can see inside.

What switch mode/s or conditions does it do the ticking business? Is yours a mains or battery operated type? If it's a battery type perhaps it's a charging/ switching sound?   just guessing  :-//

Mine is surprisingly still up to spec on all ranges, but not sure if the RMS AC reading 'may' be a few volts off compared with other RMS meters.
Difficult to verify which meter is the spec winner when using slightly flat top 240 volt mains power as a reference/comparison.
I'll have to do it with a function gen and see how my meters really fare one day. 

-----------

Edit: My 8050A reads about 2 to 3 volts higher when in the 750v AC range, when measuring MAINS voltages above 200v. It may be within close spec anyway at that range and waveform response.
In all the other AC ranges (200v and below) the readings match up closely with other verified meters.
It's not worth a cal or hunting down an internal pot to tweak, when all I do is subtract 2 to 3 volts from the display when in that highest 750v range, if necessary (not).

The 8050A is THE easiest piece of gear to access afaik if anything needs attention. One rear screw magically holds it all together.

Electro Detective:
Opened the 8060A, and absolutely spotless inside.

All the  -guilty till proven innocent-  electrolytic capacitors are Nichicon brand btw, they are the originals and look like they were installed last week!  :o

The entire board and parts are super clean, no evidence of any leakage, discoloration, bloat, tarnish or crust.

It's literally like a new meter, still holding perfect spec, no change since the last time I opened it 15-ish years ago, to see if I got my moneys worth 

Sometimes I get lucky, though not as often as I would like with electronics, sigh...    :-/O

--------------------

Serial Number 657xxxx

PCB markings:
8060A  3001

Revision L

544

:-//
-------------------



Some quick handheld shaky p0rn pics of the 8060A:   

Note the improvised 87-ish yellow holster and weather tape over the readout (not contacting the LCD) to protect the meter,
with side cutouts for power switch and wall wart, and gives it that bonus 'Fluke' pro look too, lol     :-DMM 

The last two  'poor man's cal lab'  photos are both 8060A and 189 being fed DC volts from the 715 Calibrator,
the results are good enough for harsh Australian conditions  :-+

helius:
Electro Detective:
There is additionally an electrolytic capacitor underneath the shield. I expect you will find it is a different type from the others.
There was also, in earlier units, another under the shield near the R15 pot. I can see that it was left unpopulated.

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