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Old Fluke Multimeters
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tautech:

--- Quote from: Fungus on August 10, 2017, 09:44:28 am ---I would be good to know how to clean LCD connections, elastomeric connectors, etc. Those things scare me.

--- End quote ---
I'm fairly sure you can find all you need here:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/vintageclassic-renovation-techniques/
retiredcaps:

--- Quote from: tautech on August 10, 2017, 06:55:36 pm ---
--- Quote from: Fungus on August 10, 2017, 09:44:28 am ---I would be good to know how to clean LCD connections, elastomeric connectors, etc. Those things scare me.

--- End quote ---
I'm fairly sure you can find all you need here:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/vintageclassic-renovation-techniques/

--- End quote ---
Modemhead documents it for the Fluke 87.

http://mrmodemhead.com/blog/fluke-8x-faded-lcd/
Fungus:

--- Quote from: retiredcaps on August 10, 2017, 06:57:49 pm ---Modemhead documents it for the Fluke 87.

--- End quote ---


--- Quote ---Very slowly and carefully pull the connectors from the glass.  It should help to rock them from side to side to break the seal.  The key is to not tear the connectors, which is another way to ruin your day. The connectors are not glued on
--- End quote ---

Yeah, that sounds like my previous experience. It felt like they were glued to the glass, that I was about to destroy something important.

Still, the digits on my new 8060A look perfect in the photos so I hope that won't be necessary. Filed for future reference.

(and I'm stocking up on 99% IPA and cotton buds - seems like they belong in the same toolbox as the WD40 and Duct Tape)


bd139:

--- Quote from: Fungus on August 10, 2017, 06:36:03 pm ---
--- Quote from: drtaylor on November 04, 2013, 06:10:29 pm ---I only had peripheral contact with the 8050. It used a discrete analog dual slope converter with a custom controller IC. Getting that circuit working well was a trial for the designer. So the 8050 was still a dumb design, no software, and therefore only slightly related to the 8060. I remember studying its circuitry carefully while designing the 8060. I knew the 8050 input design would never support wideband AC readings, so I pretty much went my own way on the input structure of the 8060.

--- End quote ---

I was thinking about looking for an 8050A to go with my 8060A. It's a teeny bit more accurate and I assumed they were related. Now I'm not so sure. Maybe I should get another 8060A instead. It's the one true meter.

--- End quote ---

They're not at all related. If I had to pick between then I'd pick one of each.

AFAIK there's some software in it. The IC is a Mostek one rather than a Fluke ASIC and it supports similar dB functionality into defined impedances. The only thing it's missing that I don't really like is audible continuity but I've got an 8024 floating around for that.

An 8050A, the 8600A, an 8024B and (I'll get shot on this thread) a Uni-T UT61-E are my daily drivers :)

I've got an 8010A and a 8021A I don't use floating around but the display is on its way out on the 8010A and I don't fancy the heavy lifting replacing it although it appears to be the same part as the 8021's display. Hmm frankenmeter time.

I think I just found I have a Fluke problem
bitseeker:

--- Quote from: bd139 on August 10, 2017, 09:10:19 pm ---I think I just found I have a Fluke problem

--- End quote ---

Nah. GAS works with any brand. ;D
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