Products > Test Equipment
Old Fluke Multimeters
Fungus:
--- Quote from: jh15 on August 26, 2017, 04:10:24 pm ---Thanks, Fungus.
All the switches are solid, no scratchyness. I also did all the self tests including the switch tests. All ok according to table. Not sure how thorough that is.
--- End quote ---
The self-test isn't a complete test. Each switch has multiple pairs of contacts on it, I don't think it can test all of them.
--- Quote from: jh15 on August 26, 2017, 04:10:24 pm ---I don't want to lose my chance of returning it. I wrote the seller last night asking if I could poke around inside, but haven't heard from him yet.
--- End quote ---
If it was described as working and the AC is completely dead then you have a reason to send it back. You won't have much trouble getting another one if you live in the USA.
If it was described as "as-is" then get your screwdriver out.
--- Quote from: jh15 on August 26, 2017, 04:10:24 pm ---Further pondering of schematic tells me the cap replacement list would not be related to the trms area anyway.
The ac coupling cap on the input is unlikely to be bad.
--- End quote ---
I've read of several cases where caps have leaked and corroded other traces on the PCB. If you've read this thread then you know Dr.T mentions this problem frequently.
--- Quote from: jh15 on August 26, 2017, 04:10:24 pm ---Bummer, I thought I'd be able to use it this weekend in DB mode to work on broadcast and recording studio upgrades.
--- End quote ---
That is what it was designed to be good at. :)
retiredcaps:
--- Quote from: jh15 on August 26, 2017, 04:48:20 am ---NO AC volts function.
--- End quote ---
If you can't return it or decide to keep it, my 8060A arrived with bad, but not obviously bulged visible caps. They spewed from the bottom and some electrolyte managed to wick its way up the AC calibration pot. A couple of turns full left and full right got my AC working. Obviously, you may have a different problem, but something worth considering?
BTW, the 8060A manual suggests
Switches S3D, S3B
Check power supply connections
J13 Vss
J7 Com
J12 Vdd
Fungus:
--- Quote from: retiredcaps on August 26, 2017, 05:25:16 pm ---BTW, the 8060A manual suggests
Switches S3D, S3B
Check power supply connections
J13 Vss
J7 Com
J12 Vdd
--- End quote ---
Yes, I posted that above. :)
The trick is that all the switch's contacts are exposed on the top of the switches. It makes it really easy to poke at the circuitry and see what's going on.
Mr. Scram:
--- Quote from: Electro Detective on August 26, 2017, 04:14:11 am ---Many thanks to Mr. Taylor for the generous postings here :clap: :clap:
Everyone here realises the plastic post screw casing fiasco isn't on him,
nor is it an exclusive Fluke thing, despite it still going on! :palm:
Here's one of my Fluke 87Vs that I opened recently for the first time to give it a check and borrow it's fuse to test another meter
As I unscrewed I felt/heard a crack type sound, and assumed it was the self tapping screw binding on the post. :-//
Upon close inspection...well, a picture is like a thousand words
i.e. the sucker was spot welded to the post, so of course any normal force to unscrew it, cracked the post!
I'm past ranting about this stuff, the manufacturers charging big dollars and boasting CAT Rated explosive containment that isn't better than many $6.99 One Hung TuLo meters,
need to get their act into gear ASAP.
Perhaps this issue needs a separate post elsewhere, to keep things here more On Topic :)
--- End quote ---
Why did the post crack exactly? I don't quite get the gist of the spot welding remark.
frozenfrogz:
--- Quote from: Mr. Scram on August 27, 2017, 04:01:37 pm ---Why did the post crack exactly? I don't quite get the gist of the spot welding remark.
--- End quote ---
I guess Electro Detective was saying, that the screw bonded e.g. "spot welded" with the screw post, thus needing excessive (in regard to pure stick/slip friction between metal and plastic) force to loosen the connection.
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version